SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I posted this over on SMD, I figured I'd put it up here as well. So I've been wanting to experiment with a series tuned 6th order bandpass design for quite a while. A conversation I've been having with another SMD member has finally motivated me to proceed with this experiment. First a little background. You don't see a lot of series tuned BP6 boxes out there and there is even less information on how to design them. What I have been able to find has mostly been conflicting information as to if and how the tunings for the different chambers interact with each other. Some info said they don't interact all all, some said the rear chamber will be tuned lower than …

I know some of you would prefer to put a JL w6v2 in a sealed box... (I'd like to go that rout if I had two subs and a powerful enough amp to push them both), but since I just have a single sub and amp I want to build a ported box. I want to make the box wedge shape so I can get the most out of my trunk. I did design a box using a 4in round port, specs: Sub is a single 12" JL audio w6v2 3/4" mdf box external lengths: height= 14.75in width= 26.0in bottom depth= 13.5in Top depth= 8.25 in 4in port, tuned to 32hz Net volume, 1.5 cu. ft. Final internal volume after adding in sub and port displacement ~1.76 cuft. I've been hearing from alot of people that I should make…

should i go to home depot, who has cheap but good stuff? and what kind of calk screws ETC.

just wondering how accurate it is or if it is super basic for the noob http://www.accelerator-pedal.com/ported-box.asp

I need help designing a set of boxes for two 8

I am starting a new kerfed enclosure for two Pioneer ts-w3002d4 subs. I am a little unsure of how to calculate the volume of the kerfed or flared port. I have two designs so far but I am unsure of which will be the best. I am gonna do two separate boxes and attach them together. Which is better?

I recently took my two 12's and put them in a prefab box built to hold two subs. Its a camaro box so it's wierd. I put them in that box because I had two single boxes for the subs and one was leaking real bad. Anyway, MY question is, how come they hit harder in the two single boxes than they do in the dual box? I think it might be because the box is too big. So is there anyway I can fix that? I seen a box another person had and he had it stuffed somewhat with newspaper? Would that help the subs hit harder in the dual box? Thanks ~MadroX

Ok so I am going to be going to sevierville tomorrow and stopping by the place my brother in law works. He said I was more than welcome to use the equipment they have. --read cabinet shop-- Sooo I figure why not go ahead and make a better box for the one avalanche. I'm looking for 3.5-4 cubes, tuned to 21hz. I would like it to be 30"W X 16-18" H X whatever deep. 16" high is better than 18 cause it'd be easier to fit, but i could do 18 if it really helps that much. I guess i will do slot ports so i can actually get a working box quickly. I will probably be using 3/4" MDF. I'm thinking a port on each side with the woofer in the middle. BTW its a 15" sub and the …

what paints and primers should i use to paint a subwoofer box i want it to have a glossy black look thanks -Irvin

I've posted this on some other places and I'm trying to get some feedback..I've ran into a dilemma. I don't know if I should carpet my door panels or if I should just go ahead and paint them. I have quite a bit of black carpet lying around and I think paint wouldn't be as durable since door panels can flex from every day use and it's kind of tedious prepping plastic for paint. Four 6.5's in each door. passenger side:

Alright so my box is 5.38 cubes internally after the displacements besides the port. Im using a tube port thats 8'' diameter and I want to tune to 32Hz. My box only has about 20 inches of height to work with inside, so some of the port will be sticking out the top. I want at least 4 inches between the port and the bottom of the box. If anyone can help me calculate it out that'd be appreciated.

Well I need to know what size recones to order and box to start building.... will either be doing 2 12" zcons in a 6th order ported through rear deck or 2 15" zcons in ported firing into car with trunk sealed off. . Really wanting to be over 150 db's but not just wanting numbers. Wanting crazy daily driver. Did a 145.6 with one zcon 15 on 3000 watts so hoping I can brake 150 .......either 12s or 15s will have same amp. Thinking bc5500 or somewhere in the 5-6k range. Just wanting peoples opinion on which I should go with. Cause wanting to order asap so I can have them before summer

Hi, I am getting ready to switch my system from my firebird to my truck, so I can sell the car.. It's going in a 99 s10 ext. cab xtreme.. I have 1 12" pioneer premier 3002d4, It's in a sealed box now, but I want to build a ported one for it. I will be using a precision power 1500 amp at 2 ohms, so roughly 1000 watts to it. I know how to do the wood work, but I am not near as good with calculations.lol. A good slot port box design wood help a lot, if anyone has the time. I would like it to be tuned to 34hz, with 1.7 cu without the sub. For room in the back of the truck I have 14 1/2"x18 1/2"x50".. I know thats more than enough, but thats the total space I have. Also, wh…

Ok, here is are 3 chioces of a mock-up for the install. I was able to raise my air tanks up high, and now I can fit a box underneath. Here are the 3 possible ways to mount the amps. None of these ways will they actually be attached to the box. I will weld some aluminum and stand them off a 0.25" or so. Mounting the amps on top, I like the most, but one amp is slightly shorter than the other... Mounting the amps on either side, and the RL-p in the middle..though, I dont like the M's facing opposite of each other.. Mounting the amps on one side, and the RL-p on the other... Taking a vote..without a poll I guess.. Got in all my wiring today, so just waiting on the soun…

I have 15" height with 38" width in my trunk. If it could be made down to 36" width and just longer that would be great. I'm going to be housing two SA12s on a 1500d. Specs of the site say 1.75 each at 30 hz so 3.5 at 30 should be right then correct? If it helps I always listen to rap with a lot of low notes. I currently have a design from this site for a 3.2 cube that I will build tomorrow but if someone can help me out with a design tonight that would be great. 3/4 MDF. THANKS!

Box should net 1.5 cubes, i was told to tune around 33 hz so i am in between sq and spl, im not looking to compete or anything, its an underseat box in my silverado (3 inch seat lift to gain space). I was told already here that best to face the port towards the rear pass door. My problem with that is that i have a maximum of 6x3 for port area there. Which is bare minimum for port area going by the "general rule of thumb" of 12-16 per cube, but ive read thats a load of junk. I tried winisd, it gave me a ridiculous port area. Im not sure what i did wrong but it came out over 100 sq inches. I did online calculators and got anywhere between 20 and 40 sq inches. So first off, …

Do I fire my sub towards my trunk lid or into my vehicle? I have asked several people and now I'm going to ask the proz.....which way would yeild the better sound? I head that on paper it should be the same? Could you guys tell me why i should do either or? PLEASE - THANKS

Anyone ever used plum ceek Mdf to build a box out of? I was thinking of trying some.

Hi, Just pick up a HDS208, Would like some help with a box design. Because i don't know how much Sd this speaker takes up. I'm just looking at a 1cuft box tune to 35hz. look at a box 14x20x10 external measurement with a 3inch aero port x 16.5 Please advise, Gao

can someone design me a box for two sundown audio zv.2 15's that will be going in a 04 impala here are the measurements W-35 H-17 D-30 i used the subwoofer calculator on the 12volt and i came up with 8 cubes

Looking for someone to help me design an enclosure with a kerfed port. I have been trying out doing it on scrap wood in my garage for a while and wanting to try it out on one of my enclosures. I have someone wanting an enclosure built right now and figured it would be a good one to start with. Its for 2 sundown sa8v2's in a trunk . I was told there Going to be on 1-1500 rms. . .Max dimensions - 30 wide 10 tall and 16 deep. (Ill ask if any of the dimensions can get bigger) Wanting it subs facing up and port back. Tuned in the low 30s. 30-34. . . . . Listens to mostly rap music.

Please, I know someone out there has a user manual for a 7949. Its all I want for x-mas. If you can just scan me the pages that refer to the units features and fubctions, setup and use. Thanks, Joe. P P.S. I've been searching everywhere forever now Thanks

Posted this on *** as thats where I found a box design I'm interesed in, but thought I'd ask here too asn see what you aLL THINK... I want to redo my system AGAIN and I'm slowly stackin parts to get it all ready... I have most of the wiring (RCAs, lots of 0/1, 4 and 8 ga wire, tons of connecters, etc ) most of the major stuff (I have 2 sets of RE XXX Componets, the 4 12" RE XXX D2s older style, 1 SAZ-2000D, buying 3 more and I guess I need 2 SAX-125.2s for my Mids and Tweets), now my biggest problem is how to fit it all and make it all look cool.. Again the ride is a 2000 S-10 Blazer and like I said I want to put in 4 12" XXX D2s in a vented enclosure for ""SQL&a…

I'm thinking about getting a professional shop to design and install a setup of 2 10" Icon's for me. Reason being is that it's going into a trunk (not a show car) and I want it to be practical (able to put THINGS in the trunk again) rather than having a simple carpeted box ... I want it to look good! I'm thinking about firing in (seats can fold down), sealed off, all carpet ... They talked about covering the amplifiers ... covering my battery in the trunk ... But if I'm paying a shop, what are some options that I should inquire about? Removable plates ... Plexiglass ... Company Logos on the inside deck lid ... stealth on both sides of the trunk ... lighting ... I don't w…

in the quest for possibly the best SQ to our ears, proper install would always be needed, proper positioning and aiming etc... but on the midbass install part on doors, sometimes we feel something still is lacking... even though we have done all the possible deadening etc needed. and ending up in trying to fit an 8" on the doors. modifying the door moldings and cutting through the metal sheet... Question is... is it worth it? destroying some parts the your car used as daily driven just for the midbass sound were looking for?