SPL & SQ / Fabrication

So I got a box off ebay. Omg yes I did it. I am looking at it. Fits well looks good it's solid but the inside shows a different story. My speaker cups have huge gapr around them where air can escape. The glue is not thick or sealing the box very well. No I am not building a new one. a few questions. 1= What would you use to reglue it from the inside?? 2= What would you cover the terminal holes with?? 3= what are you installing the speaker with??

Can someone help with ideas for a new enclosure? Wanting to figure out the port velocity and everything . Model everything right for this one. . Trying to get a new computer so I can do everything my self and learn everything but in the mean time need some help.

I was cleaning out my room, and found some literature that came with my DLS components. I didn't notice this bit of info when I was doing the install. But DLS recommends a chamfered baffle for the midbass. I simply made 1/2" birch rings with no chamfer. My question is, will I notice a big difference in midbass response by going the chamfered route? The rings are fairly thin being only 1/2", I don't think the backwaves are really hitting it. But I want to get some second opinions before I take my doors apart to redo the rings. http://www.dls.se/files/701/2/baffle_installation.pdf Pics of my baffles: passenger side driver side

hey, im thinking about building a pretty loud setup with just 1 bl 10. its gonna be for competition use only, just for the hell of it lol. its already in a good daily box...but i kinda want to build a burp box since i have 3/4 of a sheet of mdf laying around...im just kinda lost at what to tune it to. ik im supposed to tune high, but how high? i have no idea of what my car peaks at tho, since i dont have anybody around here that uses a termlab. i am using a hifonics 1610d and will b running at 2 ohms on it so about 1200 watts is what the amp puts out. it will be a box for competitions only, so if anybody has any ideaso of what to tune it to that would be great. also, its …

what tunning should i use for my box , i need it for LSQ should i do, 25-30-35 or 40 ??

I picked up a 1000watt amp and I'm getting two SA-8s, question is about the port size/length and whether or not to open the air space to both of them. Currently one side has about 1.4ft^3 and the other has .8ft^3. So if I open up the divider the overall airspace should be around 2.2ft^3. The recommended airspace is .75ft^3 per sub. I was thinking if they are separated I could tune one a little higher than the other and get a wider range out of them, or would they sound better in a shared airspace? Whichever is better I need advice on the port. I input these numbers on Port Length Calculator and came up with a 12" long port if I combine airspaces and use a a 4 inc…

I have a 95 caddy deville tryin to put 2 18' in it and the space im working with is 51x32x18. Need help please

88120 TI - D3, well really a D4 so thinking some where around 2-2.5 cu ft. @ 32hz off of ~800w rms what do you guys think? Brandon

I might be doing an install with a clarion DRZ9255 with a active setup on the HAT L1's .. wondering how accurate the built in crossover is on the clarion if anyone here has used it in this fashion

Anyone no what size t-nuts to use in double baffle box for 2 sa 12s

So i went to the new shop opening up in my area and got to talking with the guys there and well one thing lead to another and i was cramming a box into the backseat of my volvo. Did i forget to mention it was for free? eaa free and after something ive decided on building a wall, yea not alot of people do 1 15" or 1 18" in a wall but this box fits no where else so why not? This box seems well constructed and after building my false floor which i am going to start with the new friends i made at Kustom Tints and Graphics 2, i honestly cant wait just because i liek how the box looks but im not sure if I AM A just kinda bolt the box down or build a baffle over the front and ma…

I have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe and an AA Mayhem 15 and Im trying to figure out, ideally, what size box would give me best results and what way to fire my sub and port. Can anyone tell me how to figure that out? Like different variables associated with this. I was thinking sub up port back.

What I HOPE to attain is a great sounding sub stage (I have two SA-8s) that gets REAL low and is real tight. What makes my goal a bit different than most requests is that I don't care about volume (SPL), I will never put a meter on it to check my SPL... I want low extension, and tight bass with very little hump in the response curve (I realize it is nearly impossible to get a flat sound from a ported box). Vehicle : 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited soft top Location in the vehicle: back cargo area Space available (Length x Width x Height): 37.5 x Any x Any Subwoofer make and model: SA-8 V2 Subwoofer Size: 8 inch Number of Subwoofers: 2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.…

Aight, Ive got 2 18" daily Fi BLs dual 1 ohm, with cooling and flatwind option. Then I got a sundown saz-3000d, iraggi alternator, and more 1/0 welding wire than you could shake a stick at. Now I have very limited box building experince, and I know someone that knows someone, that has some experince. But I think he is limited in proper port designing, maybe. He has a shop called 352 Kustomz, small shop, two guys, do some crazy custom stuff. Very skilled in body work. So they start grinding away on my project, Its going to be more of a show box than a performce one. But he keeps on asking me the "port size" recommendation from Fi. I told him 5-10 cubic feet @ 30-37Hz , …

Stupidly I bought an 18 Fi BL and didn't realize I couldn't fit the recommended box inside my trunk...its anywhere between 4-4.5 cubic ft..Is there anyway I can build a new box similar in size that will increase the current SPL levels and help not suffocate the sub-woofer so much?

I'm having trouble designing a box for the two Dreadnauts I'm getting in April. I don't know if I should have both of them in the same box or have two so they take up less space? I would like to have them in separate box's that are taller and narrow so I can still put stuff in the back of the suv. But when I try to look up the Recommended Enclosure I don't understand it. if someone could give me some pointers I would be thankful. I have never made a box before so this all new to me I will put all specs I have on the subs. Recommended Enclosure Vented (Net) Port Specs …

I was wondering, I am trying to figure out how to not make a box but find out measurments ... well what should i look for when I am lookin at the sub specs and what just what do i look for to make sure everything is perfect

I'm wanting to know if I build a box like this and would it be ok with the ports like this. It would go in a 95 honda accord 9.67ft^3 gross, 7.34ft^3 after ports, after bracing somewhere between 7 and 6.5cubes after bracing, depends on if i invert it or not thanks for any suggestions or comments

Hey everyone I've been trying to mock up an enclosure for my truck in Sketch Up for 'bout a month now. I originally wanted to do 8 DC Sound Labs Level 3 12's. I really like DC audio and I have capabilities to get them at low costs. I wanted to do a 4th order but, I've been doing different designs and punching everything in to a 4th order calculator and using WinISD. I'm sorta stuck with ideas. Here's a rapid share of the usuable airspace and how the box would be shaped...a shell in a sense. mucho grasis, thank you, danke shon! http://rapidshare.com/files/184601903/blan...ge_perfect..skp I wanna stay using DC subs but I can change things around. I have a DD Z1 to pow…

Hey guys i'm building my first my box for three fi bl 12's and want to tune it to 31-33 and was wondering which would be better? Sealed,ported, or banpass?? Any suggestions would be helpful

okay so i just finished cutting and sanding all the pieces of MDF for the new box i'm building.. i used the re audio box calculator and it is gonna be tuned to 32hz. the only problem is that i am not entirely sure if the location of the sub will affect sound quality. just wanna play it safe and get some feedback. the specs are 30'' wide x 17.5'' deep x 14'' high. if the exact calculations are needed ill put em up. thanks

So after taking a bed apart a few days ago i discovered the mass use of MDF used in the bed's structure. Now if i wanna build a box for my 18" btl, people always say use 1/2" MDF. How important is that 1/2" ? Why does it need to be that thick? For structural/support reasons? the MDF from the bed is 3/8" and i'm going to go buy the 1/2" just because everyone on here says to do it and i trust them, i was just curious. I have like...50 square feet of the stuff.

Hey everyone, i have 2 T10001's powering 4 15" cvr's and im looking into a more reliable subwoofer that will belt out the lows a little bit better. I have narrowed it down to 2 18" Bl's with the cooling option(as i heard its neccesary) Question... i have 46L 27T and 19D to work with, however i must put a divider in because i will be running 2 amps, 1 per woofer(i dont want to blow one due to mechanical errors) So if i cut that in half i get 4.679 cubes with the port 22.25x2.75 per chamber. 35hz 4.679 without woofer displacement. Is this giong to be sufficient enough because i know it says 5-10 cubes for this woofer. Im really looking to keep the same output as my cvrs bu…

I just purchased a used 2007 Lexus ES350 which has a factory 10" subwoofer on the rear deck. It accomplishes some midbass, but just doesn't fill the cabin like I'd hoped. I want to install a Sundown SA-12 along with my existing Rockford 1000bd (I won't have it turned all the way up most likely). While I realize the RF Amp probably isn't best at a SQ install, I'm hoping the Sundown can fit the bill. My question is: Is it possible to make a box that can fire through the fold down armrest in the rear seat or up through the deck? How complex would something like this be in order to eliminate the loss or sludgy sound of bass firing into the trunk? My main reason is to try and…

Ok so my 10" JLW3v2 blew for no reason that i could tell the other day. I have it powered with the JL 250/1 monoblock I bought the sub used on ebay a while ago and never tested both voice coils so I think one of them may have been bad because no wires were loose when I opened up the box, but anyway, enough about that sub. Now I want a new sub and the Boston Acoustics G210-4 caught my eye. I like how it sounds tight and clean and it seems like it'll match my amp well w/ a max RMS of 300 from the sub. My problem is my current box is .71 cubic feet and on Boston's website and Crutchfield it says the sub wants .5 cubic ft (The calculation of the dimensions on their spec s…