SPL & SQ / Fabrication

right now the wife drives a 01 accord coupe with a single RE REX12D4 off around 200 watts from a RF 300.1 in a 1.5ft^3 box tuned to 35Hz front firing right behind the back seat. would it hit the lows alot better or have more output if I were to replace it with a SRX15D4 in an infinite baffle setup off the same amp? I know Id probably end up lowering the gain seeing as that SRX might not even handle 200 watts in an IB setup. and another idea, what about just using the REX12 in an IB setup since its already in my possession?

As I begin my adventure in the SQ lanes, I have been doing a lot of research and studying. My general synopsis is, for SPL, in a vehicle, we want the most reflective material possible, such a concrete, or marble, so that there is no loss in energy. Obviously this is not practical, but in this example, it will work. Ok, and for SQ, we want the total opposite, we want complete absorption so that none of the higher frequencies reflect, which can cause interference, overlap, and many other issues. From what I've seen, things such as egg carts, foam, or MLV would be the fix. So what I am asking, what would be the best and most particle material to use in the vehicle for sou…

Internal dimensions: 15" d 34" w 10" h Port: 10" h 3" w 30" l Sub displacement .1 cuft Subs up, port sideways 2.1cuft after sub and port displacement Leaving .1 for 45s, so 2 cubes net Tuning guesstimate: 33-34 Hz Side note: I would like to figure out how to calculate neccesary port area by the parameters of the sub, not by the 12-16 square inches per cuft rule, might use areos if someone has a suggestion.

In my progression to finish my build, some of my amps may require amp inserts for dual cables per input. Now, i have the tools here to make it, that's easy. The thing i do NOT like about these inserts is how they are secured in the amp.. just by the little set screw on the amp.. For holding a solid piece, i fear the insert can "turn" eventually and i don't like that. Instead, i thought about purchasing a Metric tap and die set to tap the power and ground inserts on the amps. There appears to be enough metal in there to do so easily. I do not know 100% what size tap i need but i got some micrometers here to find out but the question is this- If i tap the amp and die the i…

I have a box in my Mustang that's 2.5 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz that's used fo my 12" Mag D2. If I just swtich out the Mag D2 with a 12" Fi Q, would the tuning still be 32 Hz, or am I missing something?

i built my box for 2 18" but one got busted in shiping i have a big comp coming up and will it be saft to run 1 in 11cuft on about 4k just to get my points up

If i where planning on useing external ports for my SPL set up (probably a pair of 6") to decrease cancelation and turbulance would it still be a good idea toconjure up some type of brace for the port? i would assume so but im not 100% sure. Keep in mind i want to easily be able to change the length of the port not only for trial and error testing to get the highest score but also so i can give it a daily tuning for the ride too and from the competitions and so i dont have to lug the Ava out of and into my truck every other weekend.

I have a single rl-p 18 in 5 cubes tuned to 27hz, with 64sq in. of port. im running it with a aq2200d at 4 ohms. my question is that when i play songs with notes around 28 hz, its not really that audible, and doesnt move much air at all. Its probably just because its in a trunk. but I thought it would be alot louder on those low notes, considering its tuned to 27hz. My ssf is set around 30, i think that could be it, but i want to ask before i mess something up. thanks!

What would be the best idea for tuning a box to a sundown audio x15?

I would like to make a vented box similar to this with the top ledge on it. The pic attached is of my current box. The front of the box is to the right. I'd like to make a ported box in the same shape with two ports each pointing out of the top directly through my open 6x8 speaker holes in the deck.

Horns and i want to know of were to start... maybe links to some sites and what not.. anything is helpful thanks everyone

Alright. Here is what I have to work with. The box will be for a 12" ICON. I want it ported to play low and deep. As you can see from the picture, the only dimensions I have play on are X and Y. I know nothing about round ports so help me out here. The ports coming out the top will be placed directly beneath my open 6x8 reardeck holes.

if u have a regular internal port that needs to be say for example 20" long to get a 30hz fq.....would it still need the same 20" length if it was external to get the same 30Hz tuning? I know internal volume would be more considering less displacement

Does any one know how i would calculate port height width length 1 n 2

I know that ports are most efficent when they are facing on the same plane as the driver, and that you loose any gains form the port if it fires 180 degrees from the driver. but, how much SPL will be lost by aiming the por just under 90 degrees from the driver? In a (hopefully) up comming enclosure construction for an XXX18 in a Mazda B3000 ext cab putting the port on the same plane as the driver will be very hard, so i am thinking of having hte port firing up and the woofer on a slanf facing forward.... how will this compare tothe woofer and the port being on the same plane? im not concerned with not being loud, i am concerned with not beating a friends 4 JL w1v2's with…

Ok, here is are 3 chioces of a mock-up for the install. I was able to raise my air tanks up high, and now I can fit a box underneath. Here are the 3 possible ways to mount the amps. None of these ways will they actually be attached to the box. I will weld some aluminum and stand them off a 0.25" or so. Mounting the amps on top, I like the most, but one amp is slightly shorter than the other... Mounting the amps on either side, and the RL-p in the middle..though, I dont like the M's facing opposite of each other.. Mounting the amps on one side, and the RL-p on the other... Taking a vote..without a poll I guess.. Got in all my wiring today, so just waiting on the soun…

So i broke the latch on both of my back windows and plan on sealing them up. not the rear the third row windows. i bought some 3m window weld. Hoping that will hold it. since its 28$ a tube. Link any suggestions?

the vb part is the part that needs clearing up.... Vb= net internal volume of the box, correct? if that is the case, how is it written into the formula as square inches? bigger_george is building an enclosure for his rl-p 15's and needs to be able to calculate port length...however, he needs to plug in the Vb and he's trying to use square inches... here's the thread <-----click this link... so, which is right? i say Vb is supposed to be in cubic not square inches correct? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I KNOW THIS DOESNT HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THIS FORUM BUT PLEASE HERE ME OUT AND ANSWER THIS!!! I'm holding off on the 4 BTL's just for now until I get my money right but for now I want to know if this is a good setup? I plan on buying 5 of these (To Save Space) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3835_Kicker+05C84.html This amp for subs http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9551_H...+TXi+1008D.html The box is going to be custom made (To fit the trunk) (Ported) maybe tuned to 27 Hz.,is 27 Hz. loud or should I tune lower? And its going in a 2004 Chevy Aveo. Im going to parallel wire the 4 ohm subs to 2 ohms. For a educated guess do you think I'll be hitting @ leats 140db? I…

So i have decided to build a custom box for my 2 10in type-s alpine subs. I found an equation on JL audio's website to tune a box and have been playing with numbers for about an hour now. Everything looks good to me i just want to have someone double-check to make sure im not screwing things up. The outside dimensions of the box are 11.5X31.5X20.5in. Using 3/4in mdf that would leave me with 5700 cub inches inside to work with. there will be a single vent, 10in tall and 1in wide, going in 5.5 inches. after subtracting the volume of the 2 boards used to create the vent and the 2 subs( 86.4cu in each), ill be left with roughly 5444cu in of internal volume. with the equatio…

Hope this image works. Its a very rough sketch of what I'm planning. It's roughly 2.5 cu. ft after port and before sub volume is removed. Subs firing down, port forward. This is roughly the outside dimensions I have to work with and am open to other sub/port configurations if they make sense. Subs will likely be SA-10s or maybe Gcon 10s. Torres calculator showed 32 hz tuning frequency, but I'm confused why it asks for a port diameter and port dimensions for a slot port?? Any opinions?

Ok I have a few questions about the closure that I am designing. First is this a slot port design? Second do i need to throw some bracing in the inclosure or is it good as is? Third Have used various calculators to calculate port size for tuning is this correct? The box I have designed is 20"L x 48"W x 15"H puting the box at 5.3 without bracing. The subs will be facing the rear door and the port will be facing up on the back wall. Port will be 4"H x 20"W x 22.21"L. The port Vol is 1776.8 the port area is 80" square. Any and all help with this will be great Vehicle : 1999 Chevy Tahoe Location in the vehicle: Rear Space available (Length x Width x Height): (x)…

Hi guys, As the title says, i need a box for my sa-8 but i don't have an enclosure yet. I already saw this thread: But i wanted to get your opinion with this one: can you tell me which one is better? The only difference is the port area. The second one is bigger thus have a higher tuning. I listen to hip hop, rap music most of the time by the way. Any help/insight is appreciated. Thank you!

should i go to home depot, who has cheap but good stuff? and what kind of calk screws ETC.

Ok, so my front stage is composed of a pair of MLI 6.5's in the doors, and a pair of Fostex FF85k's (3" full range) in the dash. What I am wanting to discuss is windshield reflections. Where my head is normally is a slightly nasty reflection point, not sure how this relates to phasing issues, reflections, and off axis response. I noticed this awhile ago when reaching for something across my car while listening to a CD and noticing the change as I moved my head across the car. The MLI's and Fostex's are crossed over at ~400hz with the amplifiers onboard crossovers due to the fact my DCX bit the dust. The amps that are being used are a PPI 4240 and a RF 450.2 Thoughts …