SPL & SQ / Fabrication

The dam thing didnt fit again, lol, but we took it apart and put it in seperate. The subs definitely move alot lot more, only thing is its louder but only in the trunk still , and now its flexing the side panels and trunk is now rediculous. i wish i still had my friends camera.. I'm hoping if i can stop the flexing the sound will go into the car instead of rattling out. ANy thought.s.. BTW the box i'm pretty sure isnt done right, but oh well for now

I know I never start these topics, but I am wanting to build a really cheap fun Street B install for my truck once it is out of the shop, the most cone surface for Street B competition is 3 10's ok so I have narrowed it down to Options: 1 - the RFD 2210 (HX2 single 4 ohm 10") $109 2 - the Kicker S10D (round solo baric singl 2 ohm 10") $109 3 - the Cerwin Vega Vega 10" single 4 ohm $109 4 - dont sell my 2 eclipse aluminums and buy one more svc 4 ohm aluminum and compete with them (cheapest would be the 4th option, but I am hesitant to por them, warbleed really helped me out with figureing out a ported box design despite eclipse's lack of info for porting the Aluminums…

just kidding ok when posting DB numbers you should post what mic it was on and how you metered (sealed on the dash or outlaw) seeing all these people doing 155+ make's me cry till i find out it was on the ac mic with the door open LOL

I have a 2000 Toyota 4runner.. Throwing in 4 old skool 15" ROCKFORD FOSGATE HX2. Sorry, I had to put the name in caps for respect!! Anywho, I got some measurements here... I want the box 40" (width from wheel well to wheel well) x 36" (length from back seat to back door) x 20" (from bottom to top). So measurements are 40"x36"x20", outside measurements (roughly 16 cubic ft) . Here are my questions... Has anybody had 4 15" subs facing down towards the floor and had rectangle port facing up? My reason is, if you look real close at my pic, you can see 2 6x9 Kenwwods bolted on top of box. Also, I usually haul wood and crap for my work and would really hate to get a sub busted…

15" Xcon .... Was thinking about going sealed but then the idea of aero ports was brought up and I saw Stef's and loved the look and thought ... "Hey, a sealed enclosure is just a big box.. and a ported with aeros is just some tubing thrown inside of it and cut to the right length for tuning... I can do that.." Should I just do this? I was looking at PrecisionSoundProducts and said I could do this... Not much more work that building a sealed enclosure... Right??? So I looked up on their site for ports calculations and realized after understanding it a bit better that the Torres calculator does it as well... Here is what I come up with and it seem correct... Let me know wh…

I have a F250 Crew Cab and have 3 JL old 10w6s powered by a Diamond Audio D61000.1. They are in a 52" long box ported to 33hz. I want to get a 10" Fi BL and 1) wanted to know if this will hit harder that the JLs and 2) the box recommended for the BL is 1.5cubes, could I make a bigger box for the 10?

I've been enjoying my old school set up, Powered by Old School Precision Power PC2150 for sub duty and a PC275 for my mids and highs, both amps are from 1997 never been repaired original void stickers still in tacked. I'm running 2 NOS 12'' Rockford Fosgate P1's, there the ones with a big plastic cover over the magnet, to make the magnets look big, sealed boxes. Let me tell you those subs sound incredible with those old school PPI amps. My head unit is an old school Alpine CDA - 7965 year 2001 sound quality deck, has no deck power, you can only use amplifiers with this deck. I'm running a Tsanmi 40 FARID CAP. I have a old school Audio Control cross over in the glove …

ok, i did a 143.9 w/ my 2 15's. and i'm wanting to redo the box to try for louder. i'm putting about 750-800 to them a piece. do you think i could get 1 15 w/ 1600w louder than the 2? or would i be better off sticking w/ the 2?

New high for music out of the GP 148.3 30 sec avg pr of 10's! :clap: 150+ playin music comin to a lane near you! I workn on becoming the only Trunk vehicle in the states runnin n the 149.9 class with a tiny pr. of 10's!

Just got this bad boy in today, from Fatbox USA...I must say it is the best box I've ever seen built and was done by the head owner of Fatbox himself and is signed by him for me! Not only is it VERY well built, and stunningly BEAUTIFUL, It is a BEAST at 100lbs!!! ALL 1" industrial MDF made in USA with a 2" front panel!!

i have a 1991 mustang convertible with a shoe box for a trunk. the dimensions are 10h x 9-11D x 40 width. i've been hearing great things about how the sa 8 is a great spl small woofer and wanted to know if i could really fit more than one into a box with such small max dimensions. i also need amp suggestions to run the one or two i will be getting thanks!

Just checking pricing on various different places. What places do you guys use for your resin/matte/cloth?

Wassup fellas I built a box for a 18 btl but went with an aq hdc3 18 until Christmas. It is 8 ft3 at 30 hz. My problem is I think this box it too big for the hdc because anything above 40 hz sounds like trash but is a low end monster! also from 25 hz to 40 hz the excursion is the same! It's like the box is too big and it's acting like IB. Can some one help me out ha I want an ok topend instead of the junk I have know! Thanks

Ok, I have done the measurments for my truck and i should be able to fit 2 10" icons in my truck. They will be in a 2.5ft^3 box after driver and port displacement. I used the calculator at carstero.com and it says that i need a ~8" diameter port for the box tuned to 30 hz. Would that be a suitable frequency for that size box? If so the only opitions for port size is a single 5" port 27" long, or two 4" ports at 20" long? The single port will be on the driver side firing into the side of the cab, and the 2 ports will be on either side of the box. Will ports that small be choaking(spell check) the air flow, or will they be fine? im leaning towards the 2 4" ports though…

willl be running a rockford fosgate t1500 on a 15" xcon listening to all sorts of music sq over spl but i still wanna move a lil bit of hair if it makes a difference does it make a big difference if the sub is up port back vs both up or both back? its going in a 98 Honda CRV....simular to the picture bellow, id post mine but im having a hard time figuring it out.

Does anyone know a formula that can be used to calculate the optimal box volume and tuning frequency for a particular subwoofer using the T/S parameters given by the manufacturer?

I should be seeing a Orion HCCA 15 pretty soon and I'm going to want to build a box for it. I found the instruction manual and my dumbass can't see the inner port wall (L shape). I'm cutting pieces of paper pretending its the box but I'm still lost. I'm sure I'll be laughed at but still. http://www.directedd...08-11MLweb2.pdf I'm looking at page 30 in link. Thanks for your patience.

Hey guys, I originally made a topic where I landed on the idea of running an 8" midbass paired along with a 3" fullrange. After giving it a bunch of thought, because of the harsh drop off of the full rangers at higher frequencies (if not directly on axis with the listener.) I don't think that this would be the best option for me. I would prefer if both me and my passenger would be able to have the best listening experience. Would this be best achieved by just a simple 6.5" and tweeter combination, or are there different options that might work best? Just looking for some advice, -Mike

Ok, so my buddy does a real decent job at painting and can do pretty decent job at detailed pictures. So what i wanna know is how can i get this type of painting onto an enclosure. Its made with MDF wood 3/4" thick if that means anything. Now im also trying to figure out how to paint this wood so it will look smooth and as less like wood as possible, which means if that cant be done then the detailed painting may not work. Anyways what i want to know is what can i do to the surface, that wont ruin sound quality, that i can paint primer or whatever onto in order to do this paint job to it? im at a complete stop here so any links or anything will help me out at this point. …

would applying resin to the entire outside of the box stop the wood from absorbing paint? and would it be a good way to do it? Because i feel like the wood would absorb primer almost as much as it did the paint. I'm just wondering because the last box i built took several cans of paint, (and it was only for 1 10") and even then, the paint only came out ok

so my friend tried to paint the box he made for his girlfriends jeep black, but where the screws are its all messed up, and the paint is dark and light in some places and fades alot and doesnt look that appealing all together, i figure i could just use woodfiller for the spots for the screws and sand it down flat, but what about getting all the paint even and pretty? need to make one for a guy i know and he wants it painted so anything will help, thanks

Only one sub rite now the other one will be in on Tuesday. Box is 7.1 cubes tuned @ 30hz Hit 144.4 sealed up at 43hz without much testing. 146.7 outlaw.

I was looking around at how I could go about finishing my box. Now this is a 10 cube box, but fully square. Since its MDF I would think it would be hard to paint. So I was searching and came up with four things I may be able to do. Spray/Roll on Bedliner(not sure if it's the same as paint), Carpet Wrap, Fur wrap, or Vinyl Wrap(hardest) Now I have no upholstery expirence so wrapping my be a task, but it looks good when done right that's why it is a option.

I'm assuming if i had one of those woofer testers to pull the T/S parameters of a speaker, it would pull different specs if i took a single DVC subwoofer and tested it wired in series, then tested it again in parallel. Well, i dont have one so i'm gonna rely on those experienced here to relay some info to me. I will be using 4 subwoofers, 2 subwoofers per amp. Each pair of subs are dual 1 ohm. I have 2 ways of wiring this- 1 - Parallel both subs then series them to the amp 2 - Series both subs then parallel them to the amp Is there a difference in SPL potential between the 2? this info is pertaining to a meter, not the ear. I notice when looking at specs of subs, in gener…

Hey guys im considering getting this passive radiator for my Fi BL12 TC Sounds VMP 15" The reason is i dont have room to port an enclosure underseat but i may be able to fit this. If i decide to go this route im going to design a port for the enclosure and then calculate the mass of air in that port to add the the PR, is this correct? I just want to run this idea by you guys since you all know so much