SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hello world, after much research and consideration I have finally decided to become an SSA consumer, I plan on buying a DCON series 15in to run with an Alpine MRP-M650. I plan on designing and building a custom ported enclosure for the sub, and this yields the question, what is the recommended volume for said enclosure? I know the SSA Store gives recommended box dimensions, and I have seen them for the DCON 12, but the fields are empty for the 15 D: Any help is appreciated. My guess would be somewhere around 3-4 cubes? But it's my first build so I feel like I need some reassurance. Thanks

Has anyone ever built, seen, or heard a deathbox enclosure? I would like to build one myself but have only heard about deathbox and I never found the build plans. I would like to test the enclosure with a 10" mtx woofer and see what the enclosure is capable of. I stuffed the mtx in a sealed enclosure and it produces tight bass but nothing fantastic about it at 300watts. So if anyone knows where I can find the build info for the deathbox, I'd really appreciate it! Or let me know if you have ever heard one in person!

I am running rookie sq in iasca. I was wondering if they have any rules in the sq division regarding vehicle builds. Specifically on caps, # of amps, wiring. I know they do for idbl, but I cant find anything on their website about sq builds. Thanks for any help.

I was cleaning out my room, and found some literature that came with my DLS components. I didn't notice this bit of info when I was doing the install. But DLS recommends a chamfered baffle for the midbass. I simply made 1/2" birch rings with no chamfer. My question is, will I notice a big difference in midbass response by going the chamfered route? The rings are fairly thin being only 1/2", I don't think the backwaves are really hitting it. But I want to get some second opinions before I take my doors apart to redo the rings. http://www.dls.se/files/701/2/baffle_installation.pdf Pics of my baffles: passenger side driver side

how does it measure the frequncy of the port if it does not know the displacement of the sub?

I was looking @ this video and this guy made this video with 4 15s and it was 2 of them at the top and 2 @ the bottom.Anyone an expert on making these kind of boxes I want one made in my car. here is a link <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value=" name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

can someone tell me what are the benefits or any of building a kefed box..they look good as hell but is all the extra work really worth it..jus wanted some opinions

What should i tune my box for a JL 13w6?

Many times I have been asked: "What if I don't have a table saw, how can i still make a good box?" This video answers that question. Enjoy!

Hi guys, I 'm always trying to improve my system. I have a 15" xcon and a 1500 watts Sundown saz amp. The car is a hatchback toyota Auris, with a little trunk. I had a slot ported box with sub up and port up, at 3.5 ft3 at 32 Hz. This box was too big for the trunk, but I thought it was not the right one for my car. I've heared this same box in a smaller car, with the same setup, and it was ...insane. In my car, it was not really loud. I have, now, a 3ft3 sealed box, with the sub firing back ; I found it was better than firing up. So, here is my question : if I want to do another ported box, what would be the best choice ? Sub and port firing back, or sub up and port back …

I am working on my plans for my box and would it be acceptable to cut a hole for a round port and have the port extrude from the box some distance? The Box is 3.5 cubes or so tuning to i hope 32 Hz for a 15. Could it be outside to get more airspace?

I got a box built for my 2 Funkin Audio 12" subs but something is wrong with one of them So I used 2 of my Mass destruction napalm's I had never used them before. I had the box built at 2.742 cubes ported to 40 for the funking audios the Mass destruction napalm seem to be doing ok and they seem very very loud.. My question is do you think they will be ok in this space or should I get 2 of something else like the BTL that is good up to 3 cubes.. I am running a xxx-6500d and they seem to be taking it ok I don't want to push them just yet as they are brand new. Open to suggestions don't want to smoke to new subs for sure.

Who will be there? Who is competing? What Orgs? I'll be in Street B, and street classes...

im getting my system installed next week. Am i going to get bored of it after a while? Will it not seem as loud as it was when i first put it in because i got used to it? I am going to run 1500 watts rms. i have a sundown sae 1200d, 12in fi bl fully loaded, 0 gauge amp kit, and im going to do the big 3 upgrade. This is all going in a 2010 maxima

any1 familar w/ my make/model please help. I already have tons of flex in the frame all around the sunroof but esp. the front part of it, I am about to be installing more then double the power + batts + 0 gauge so I am concerned. I def. cant even listen to the music up with the sunroof open, hell I can't even open up the sun shade on it when the system is on blast w/out fearing a glass shower, so I have no problem doing something extreme to fix this problem or at least help with it. If shizzzon reads this I am very interested what you did or are planning to do with your scions sunroof. Thanks in advance for any suggestios or thoughts on this. - anyone who has any advice…

ok so i really dont trust most of the box calcs. online so i've been researching formulas and anything i need to know about designing on my own. so anyone with advice please put in your two cents..... tell me if i got this much figured out: 1). to come up with the ft^3 of the box you multiply length x width x height using the inner dimensions. then take the total of that and divide by 1728 which is the in^3 of 1 cubic ft. 2). then to factor in port, bracing, and driver displacement you use the L x W x H on each item and subtract it from the ft^3 3). for box's with a slanted front. for example the top is 5" and the bottom is 15" you find the average of them by adding them…

I've been to one spl comp and it was not even a real event, just a thing where people could get on the mic's (and audiocontrol mics at that ). I live in seattle and can not find a SINGLE spl comp anywhere near here. It seems like they are all out east. Around here we have Adire and Audiocontrol as well as Sounddomain.com / cardomain.com and other names that are getting somwhat big so my question is, why no comps around here???? -aaron

I built this for a friend of mine. Its about 2.52 cuft per sub with 40 square inches of port per sub tuned to 36 Hz. The objective was to build a box that filled up the back of his truck. But that was too much air space overall, so we pretty much built a box inside of a box.. The pic of the inside looks pretty sick.

I have 2 9515 DD's and I am building a new box. I need 75 square inches of port area. The square port I was going to use is 5 x 15 and is suppose to be 13.75 long. Do I measure the port from the front of the wood or the back? Also how far should my port be from the back of the box? I was thinking I might have to turn the port to get the length I need. The box inside measurement is 16" so the only would give me 2.25 inches from the back of the wood and 3.75 from the front.

Finally designed my first enclosure. It is for a 12" GCON. ~2.5 ft^3 tuned to ~33hz. Does my math/design look correct? Does this look like a design that will translate into the real world effectively? It will be going in the trunk of a 1996 Honda Accord sedan powered by an AQ1200. This is what I came up with to fit my trunk space needs. Any critiques and opinions are welcome and greatly appreciated.

I am looking for a good place to go to learn about building crossovers. Not only how but what components to look for, theory on how different setups affect sound, anythng and everythng.

right now i have 2 18" in a hatchback with subs up port back will i do better numbers with subs and port up and i have 100sqin of port will i bennifit going to 150sqin of port any help please

I am in the process of upgrading my sub to one 10" Fi Bl are looking to have an enclosure built. Does anyone out there know of a good place to go in the Los Angeles, Orange County area to have a quality box built to mfg specs?

I have a Tapco J2500 pro amp in my HT (playing an IDMAX 12) and I'm currently running each channel to each voice coil (so that should be about 750wrms to each coil) the signal is mono. The wires I'm using right now are 25ft long and 14 ga. Is this too small of gauge for this power and length My run only needs to be about 15 ft long, Should I 1. Keep the current set up and not worry 2. Cut the 14 gauges to the smallest length possible given the position of my amp and sub 3. Buy larger cable and still run separate wires to each coil 4. Bridge the amp and run the 4ohm coils in series and use make speaker wire so to speak out of 8ga power cable 5. something I haven't thought…

so, im currently redesigning yet another enclosure for my home theater mains. was wondering what the effects, pros, cons are on port placement. using a 3 inch round port. a 6.5 and a 1 inch tweeter. so top near tweeter or on bottom below mid or just rear firing? pros cons? im thinking port on bottom with about 2 inches of separation between port and mid.