SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I think this is the right place to put this. Ok, I want loud, but not "boomy" bass. Is that possible??? I will be pushing my 2 RL-p 15's with an A2400DB Power Acoustik amp (1800w rms @1ohm). Would my best bet be to go with a sealed box?? Or should I go with a ported one?? I listen to hiphop, rock, and everything in between. I would like to have a good LSQ system. Any info you can give me would be great. Thx, Victor. B) P.S. this system is going into a s10 xcab. So the subs will be inside with me not in a trunk.

For the Crown Vic.Town Car 4.6 Now the Exp.Navi 5.4 Im a bit confused on what they did exactly. maybe someone can explain it better. says its from an 08 navi, but alot the bolts should be the same.

Is there anyone here thats does them....

I Recently Talked to Chad Kyupers Drivers Start Shipping a week from today. While talking to him i mentioned 6cuft@29Hz, he said he had a guy do 4.5 at 30Hz and its output was INSANE with only 800w. he said 6@29 with 1200w should wang hard so im down to 2 enclosure options, both with equal port area (77sqin) only one iwth 2 ports and one with one. originally i though there was going to be no way to get the ports on the same plain as the driver, so i designed a side firing enclosure and the port a straight shot. then i came up with the idea to get the port on the same plain... see image below http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBFryman2/avatest.bmp the bottom thing…

I am planning a box design in which I am using two 3" aero ports. The ports are supposed to be 7 inches long. My question is when using aero ports does the actual tube have to be seven inches or does the entire port assembly (flares included) need to be 7 inches?

I want to build a box for my 2 12's. I want it to be ported but I'm having a really hard time finding a diagram or blue print. The recommended enclosure according to the website is .5 to 1 cu ft. Kinda confused as to what that means.

I started my base mold about a week ago, and popped it out after the second layer. Right now im on my fourth layer for the base, and it seems to be getting really stiff. Probably going to end up doing 2 more layers. I have a question though, does fiberglassing polyiester rope to the inside of the box help stiffen it up? i thought I read about that on here but im not sure.

so I just took everything out of my trunk. which also includes the rug and spare tire. I'm not putting the tire back since I can't get it out when everything is in. so my question is should I put the rug back in? I thought I read somewhere rugs are bad for spl. thanks.

how much do you think a setup like this would cost i just want a wall going across my trunk (for 2 12" RL-P's) like in the pictures and maybe when i fold down my seats ill put some plexiglass so you can look at the subs but if it costs too much then its out of the question

Thought I would post this little bit of theory that I discussed with Mattdog from Neons.org tonight. I would like to see if anyone has anything to add/discuss further? Typical 4ga stranded copper wire has approximately 0.000292/ft of resistance, so for a typical 20ft run of wire to the trunk, that equals 0.00564 ohms. Pretty much negilible, the fuse will have more resistance . A battery like the Optima Yellow Top runs approximately 0.0028 ohms of resistance. Battery resistance changes with temperature, but in the case of a gel-cell deep cycle, that battery temperature will be more stable than the typical lead-acid during use. Deep cycle batteries also have less resistanc…

Howdy SSA. Haven't been on here in forever. OK so I am looking to create an interchangeable port system for my box. Here is the layout of the box: (Feel free to steal the design) Playing around with my little box designing sheet, I thought about making a system where I can remove an appx 7 inch section of the port wall and insert some custom made plugs to lower the volume of the box. This would be just to switch things around. Now does anyone have an idea of how i can create a moveable port wall? I thought about a slide-in design (a hole cut in the top of the box that would let me slide the wall down in like a dam wall) or maybe a system of rails. I'm just looking for so…

Hello, I have a box designed and it currently has 4.6 cubic feet net internal volume after wall thickness/drivers/bracing. I would like to port this box and the port face is 13.5hx4w. What length would the port need to be to tune the box to 33hz and 35hz? Also what would the lenght need to be if the port face was 13.5hx4.5w? Thanks

so my RL-i 10 has arrived, now i'm waiting on the amp. my 1st question is this. would putting the driver on the back side of the truck box be a bad thing? i know to allow for excursion clearance, but it would still be pretty close to the back wall of the cab (regular cab ranger btw). would there be some adverse effects from the air the sub is pushing not escaping away from the sub fast enough? here is a crude 1 minute drawing. i was thinking if it would be alright to face backwards; i would extend the sides of the box to act as a separator between the box and cab. i've seen boxes like this before, but they were facing the front to give separation from the seat. this n…

Im going to be building a sealed trunk enclosure. I have a Zv4 15 that will be firing forwards. The amp will be a BE.2500. I need some advice on how big the box should be. My max dimensions are 15.5 tall 42 wide and 36 deep. I would like to use an aero port instead of a slot port. How wide and long should the aero port be if i wanted the tuning frequency to be at 30 hz? Also, if im going with an aero port, does that mean the box size doesnt have to be as big to accommodate the slot port? To get the 68 in^2 port area would i need to have two aero's or could i get away with just one? Any help is appreciated.

My brother is getting an IDQv3 12" sub. Going to be powered by an arc audio 600w amp. Down the road he's going to get another sub and another amp to match. Our budget is drained so I'm going to attempt to build the box. I wanted to go ahead and build a dual 12" ported box tuned at 30Hz. and just use one side for now. Any recommended web sites and pointers would be greatly appreciated. Some questions I have are what's the best to hold the box together. Pre Drilled hole and screws, or staples, or glue, or all the above. Round port vs. rectangular. Which direction to aim the port. Should I aim subs toward the back glass tilted slightly up.

What is considered the windowline in a competition vehicle? My doors and my trunk windows have a different height. Also, do they have no wall classes with a height limit vs the window rule?

Final thoughts before I start building this for my sealed trunk wall? I am going to be putting in a Zv4 15" running on a BE.2500. Will it be alright for the total port area to be 12 in^2 more than the recommended? Thank you.

I'm going to build a truck-style enclosure for a Fi Bl10 with a 3'' aero. Dimensions are w: 38 h: 12 d1: 6 d2:8 This is 1.217ft^3 internally. After the bl10 displacement it comes out to roughly 1.1ft^3. When determining the port length, online calculators asks for: Volume of Box in Cubic Feet Tuning frequency Port diameter Number of Ports I want to end up with a tuning of somewhere around 33-35hz, depending on how long of a port will fit in my box. So...... Do I put …

Building a box for wife's 2010 Jeep Wrangler 4 door. Leaning more towards a sealed box, but I can be convinced otherwise! Prefer SQL, then SPL. 12" GCON dual 2 ohm running off channel 5&6 on Leviathan amp. Size is not a big concern, but retaining the most possible usable space is warranted with the kids, their activities, and associated gear. I can figure out the dimensionson a sealed box, but haven't played amounted with ported dimensions yet. Outside of the build specs I have a couple of questions: Should I poly fill, or not, and if so, how much? I've read on the Jeep forums that down firing is preferred. Any special considerations going this route? Should I resi…

If I have a box that is 36" wide by 22" deep by 24" tall how big would I want my port for tuning it to 32hz? Its for an 18" n2

Can you order 1" MDF somewhere online? does home depot or lowes carry this? What about 1" birch plywood. I want strong but lightweight.

Non-Wall. Single Cab Chevy. 2 db Drive K9 10"s. 1800w Non-Wall. Dodge Nitro. 3 db Drive K9 12"s. 1 db Drive A7 3500. Walled. PT Cruiser. 2 Fi N3 18"s. 2 RD D9's. Same PT, Non-Walled. 2 SSA ZCON. DD M3a Walled. Isuzu, 6 RF T2 15"s. 3 RF T2500bdCP's..... Loudest Rockford Truck Known to Exist. More Videos of this truck in the 1st reply. I'm new to the Sketchup thing, never really did it before until this week. lol So be easy on me. …

I've got some ideas for a speaker project...but need someone local to do the fabrication. Anyone either in NC or VA have the time? Let me know...thanks

If you're building a downfire enclosure, how do you calculate the distance from the floor? I've searched and haven't found a definitive answer. All i've found is calculations for woofer sag and "just do 3"-4" from the floor." Half the radius, or plus 5% of Xmax... What? Help please! Thank you.

Long story short - I have a '19 f250 underseat box with 2 10" 2.2ft tuned to 36hz. and am trying to decide on drivers for it. I have a Sundown sa10 in a 1ft box tuned to 35hz - I'm happy with the lows but it drops off in the higher frequencies quick - in songs with a lot of dynamic bass frequencies I can barely hear bass in some parts and other parts it shakes the car, so it feels "uneven" during the song. I'm looking for a setup with loudness but also smoother over a larger frequency range. I've modeled an idq10, jl 10w3 and Sa10. in 1.1ft box tuned to 36hz (below). When I change the idq10 to two drivers and double the volume (2.2ft) the graph doesn't change. S…