SPL & SQ / Fabrication

As it says above. I dont plan on taking 2nd again this year. i will post pic. soon. somethings involved are a credit card that is pretty close to maxed out at the moment to add alot MORE POWER and maybe more subs just have to wait and see

Awaiting a check for $450 and then putting a call into RE. 4 RE 8's 1.8 @ 34Hz dual 3.25" Ports under the seat of an '03 GMC 1500 Ext Cab. going to be powered by Pheonix Gold Octane R 8.0 Hoping for 140 on the AC. Which shouldnt be much of a problem.

Hi Everyone Need Advice On How To Make My Box Look Good. I Want A Quick Project Do Do Under $60 Carpeting,Paint,Stencil, Spray On Bedliner ? Let Me Know If You Have Any Ideas. Here is A Pic Of The Box. Thanks ~ Kent ~

Hey guys, I'm starting to design my system that I'm going to be putting together this summer. I wanted subs that have """SQL""" type features, which is why I'm thinking the 12" xcons are the best way to go. The box design I have come up with is going to go in my 2002 Hyundai XG350L. I am going to seal it off from the trunk, and have the port coming through where the backseat center armrest folds down. sort of a skipass type thing. I believe that I will be running either a SAZ-3500 or an AQ3500 but I will make the decision when its time to purchase. Let me know what you guys think, weather or not it will work. I don't know if I should put 45's in or not a…

well tomorrow my third rl-p 18 should be here, so now i need to start doing some box planning. i have an isuzu rodeo (suv) with the back seats ripped out. im going to use the whole back portion to build the box. its not going ot be a wall though. my question is what size and tuning should i do for all three? i see the recomended 5 cubes at 27 hz for one, but im not sure if it would change for all three. by that i mean, would the optimal size be 15 cubes at 27 hz? maybe im overthinking it but it seems ike it would change due to there being multiple drivers in the same box. also, i know i can fit the box in my suv, but porting it back may not work. my back window angles in …

anyone know off hand the length just the 2 flairs and conector

Alright guys, im in college for Mechanic Apprenticeship and one of my courses next semester is Electrical Accessories, Guess what we get to build! A sub box, Considering i already have a daily box for my BTL 18, i was considering building something for pure SPL if i ever want to try out a competiton.. Anyways, i was just curious from your experiences what platform is the best for pure spl builds, just a basic slot port, 4th order, 6th order ect. (This will be in the trunk so no walls.) Once i get some information about this ill sit down and see what i can come up with.

hey i have a 02 ram single cab and just took out my center seat out in order to create more clearance and air flow for a sub/box. my question is; what is the best placement for my sub for sq? this is what it looks like w/o the center seat: and another shot: http://www.dupontregistry.com/Celebritycar...C-9363FD33193B} thx in advance

i just had my wood cut from lowes (they did a bad job cutting) and i was wonder what size screws should i use to put the together? i dont have a router so what else could i use to cut the hole out for my sub? i have some titebond wood glue and some heavy duty liquid nails here.

what would you guys prefer to use to smooth out the corners inside a box, putty or bondo, (and which brand) I might grab some resin and hardener for my RL-p box, I want it perfect before the RL-p goes in, I shold probably do some more internal bracing to make it as stiff as possible to preserve as mush SQ as possible

Are 45*s needed with in boxes that use PVC tubing as ports?

I recently purchased an A.P. Axis 15 and was suggested to make this box. Box is to be 3.0 cu. ft. net and to use 4 - 4" pvc ports. Because of box dimensions I'm not able to use flare ports so this is gonna be straight 4" pvc. I'm told the beauty of this type of box it the ability to change tuning and also seal up the box using plumbing inside pipe plugs. A ported and sealed box combination. My concerns is port noise. When I brought this up I was told that I would not have that much and that I would certianly not hear it while playing normal music, just on bass tracks. Is this accurate information? I think this box concept is great but if it's so great why isn't …

Hey guys It's time for a new box and while I was looking around I came across PWK Designs. Has anyone dealt with this guy yet? Looking at his youtube videos and his official site it looks like he takes everything into account. If anyone has had a box designed by him let me know what you thought about his services and was it worth it?

Has anyone ever heard of this guy? And are his designs worth the money? His website is: PWK Designs

What is target vent match? what does the M/S stand for. and how do i know what numbers to chose?

When building a box inside the trunk whats the best way to start? im getting a box pre designed with all the cuts i just need to assemble the box inside the trunk

Hey all.Is it true that you can build a wall and then slide it in your car?Ive heard of people doing this but wasn't sure if it was real or what.If its real how would I go about doing it?I want to build a wall but I dont want to spend 1200 bux to have some one build it so I was going to attempt to do it myself.I have a 2007 Dodge caliber and was wanting 4 15's if it helps any.

If you have two boxes at the same volume and say one had a 2" slot port width and the other had a 3.5" port width tuned to the same frequency would there be a difference? Would the 3.5" port allow you to feel the lows better than the 2" port but sound the same since they are tuned the same?

When mounting subs like this, can you make the enclosure smaller than recommended? For instance, if the subs call for 1.5 cubes each ported can you get away with making the box 2-2.5 for both? What are the (dis)advantages to mounting subs like this? Or are there any?I know the polarity needs to be reversed with the sub mounted inverted.

I am new to the forum and I am trying to get help on something I just dont seem to be understanding. I have a Ford Explorer and I have two Lethal Injection 12's (4ohm/dvc model). I wanted to see how they sounded sealed, since I couldn't find anyone on the web. Only people asking has anyone done it. They are clean, crisp and loud being pushed with 800watts each. The sound quality is phenominal whether soft, medium or hard hitting. If I open the front doors only, its like a huge ported box turned up using old school SPL comp cd's. The pressure level is unreal for a sealed enclosure. I cannot say enough good things about these speakers. Best investment I made for not a lot …

If I were using the RE enclosure calculator, do I need to take into account the speakers displacement for the tuning? Should I tune about 1-2 hz below my desired tune hz? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also does anyone know what a Kicker L7 would like the box tuned to? Thanks!

In anyone's experience, does it matter if the elbow of an L-Port is angled or kept at 90*? As far as sound quality or output is concerned.. It would be easier to build boxes with a 90* angle like that found on the RE box calculator. I've always used an angled elbow, as shown below.. It just seems to make sense, but just wondering!

my friend is getting a 10" type R (powering it with a kicker 400.1). he's trying to keep the box as small as he can so i was thinking about using a flare tube port for the box. what diameter should we be looking at? any suggestion? (sub isnt purchased yet. but i havent seen anything better for 100 bucks shipped) edit: damn i think i put this is wrong section... please move if it is

I'm planning a box for a trunk setup w/ folding rear seat. The subwoofer will be facing the rear and port at the rear or side, and enclosure moved as close to the cabin. What is the rule on height and width clearance of the enclosure in relation to the rear deck and side panels? Is there supposed to be space in between? Can either be flush?

Working on some fiberglass corner enclosures on an upcoming build for someone and i noticed that the corners that they will be installed in are slightly different. since i was going to begin by making the backs to rest perfectly flush i am wondering if having slightly different airspace for each side, say .1 of a cubic foot. would cause problems. I would say the left box will be about .9 sealed and the right would be about 1.0 if anything. should i add an extra piece of MDF to the bottom to compensate? i didn't know is the different Fs would cause some type of clash in the response