SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Building the box tomorrow. 2 JL w7 8 Inch subs (sold the 12's, these are to cool looking). Sealed or Ported? Used for Rap Music. These are each being powered by a JL 500/1 until I order Sundown Amps.

Alright, I am wanting to wait till i get a new vehicle to do a wall. (Still debating). I'd like to use two fifteens in my trunk, Thinking either AudioQue HDC3's, Fi BL's, or maybe some DC Level 4 XL's. A local shop said sealing a trunk on GM cars sounds like crap; Is this true? This would be the plan for my box Would this cause an audible noise or necessarily sound bad? I know it's install dependent but how do sealed trunks like THORSHAMMER's sound?

Hey guys this is my first post! Seems like a great forum with knowledgeable members, so anyways... What is the best stuff to seal an enclosure with? Silicone? Caulking? Which type?

We Started today, with this. Enclosure in and playing. But ALL the pressure goes right to the back. Took the woofers out. 2 DC Lv4 XL 18"s. Picture of how large the gap is. Supplies Mocking up the start of the seal. Sealing up the bottom Priming Port for red paint. Then, red paint. Cutting out 1/2 MDF to make seal. Driver side sealing done!! Starting on passenger side. Making sure boot stays in place. ALL DONE........ Until suede tomorrow. P.S. This is the truck. and just so it's known, this is his just a toy. Nissan BEFORE Wall seal This is his daily. McGauhy's 2/4 Drop, Ls3, Magna Flow Dual Turn down's.

I tried to search for this, but couldn't find what I'm looking for.. I drive an '06 KIA Spectra. I'm having good luck with a Rockford P3 dual 2 15" in a slot ported enclosure, tuned to about 32HZ. I'm running that with a Cadence ZRS7000D. I understand the machanics behind sealing off the trunk, but I've never listened to sealed off trunk car. I'm wondering if they are purely for muscle, or can they be musical? Is it worth putting in the effort if I don't drive around with my seat folded down?? My poor trunk can't handle the pressure!

So i've been doing some reading and I'd like to seal the rear vents in my '06 tahoe. I've never worked with sound dampener before but I think that's the best route to go..Any suggestions as to what I need to buy or the best way to do this? Pic of someone elses truck an the vents in question:

So i broke the latch on both of my back windows and plan on sealing them up. not the rear the third row windows. i bought some 3m window weld. Hoping that will hold it. since its 28$ a tube. Link any suggestions?

EVERY MEMBER HERE IS ENTITLED TO A 40% DISCOUNT OF LISTED PRICES, JUST DROP ME A LINE AND LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU WANT, KYLE WWW.SECONDSKINAUDIO.COM

Would there be any negative effects from running all-thread though the back of my box directly into the cab of my truck. The back wall of my truck is already threaded and I could strongly secure the box this way. But Im wondering over time will I get leaks or put to much stress on the MDF. I will be using 1in MDF more than likely. I would seal it and also use a 1/2in rubber mat between the box and back wall and floor to help with sound deadening and vibration. I also will be using the back seat metal bracket to mount the floor to, I can also run allthread through box and floor threaded directly to the metal brackets. This will be a semi wall and will probably make beauty …

I have a gmc Sierra ext cab and I have a half wall box. How could I secure it so if I crash it doesn't kill me?!

Vehicle is 2door hardtop jeep wrangler. I'm going to put 4 12" icons in, I can either have the drivers face towards the dash or up, port can face any direction (guessing i'll do rear, but perhaps front would be better for semi wall?). If I have the drivers facing the front towards dash, the box will not be a wall (there'll be ~15 inches on sides and top, around the box). This is what I was envisioning for upfiring, or just rotated and move port for front firing. Also, The box will be directly behind driver and passenger seats, and will have about 15inchs of space from rear of box to tailgate (gotta have some storage )

I posted this over on SMD, I figured I'd put it up here as well. So I've been wanting to experiment with a series tuned 6th order bandpass design for quite a while. A conversation I've been having with another SMD member has finally motivated me to proceed with this experiment. First a little background. You don't see a lot of series tuned BP6 boxes out there and there is even less information on how to design them. What I have been able to find has mostly been conflicting information as to if and how the tunings for the different chambers interact with each other. Some info said they don't interact all all, some said the rear chamber will be tuned lower than …

I have a question for anyone on here that has experience with 6th order enclosures or blow-through boxes. I have finally gathered everything I needed for my build in my silverado (standard box). The part that has been bothering me is that the build that I originally based my idea on was Jack Chisam's Sleeper. The basic design was a series ported 6th order with the front chamber untuned and the back tuned around 30hz. it is a 3:1 ratio 6th order. The woofers I chose were the Zcons (6) and I am running them from a American Bass 1100.1 (maybe 2 in the future). The amp and batteries are in the very back of the bed on the back side of the box. So, with all this being s…

Just put my old Alpine 9831 back in, when i turn the ignition over I get the loudest pop ive ever heard, all door speakers and sub real loud. Im thinking its the ground on the HU but im not sure. The wireharness for this HU is kind of ghetto, I got it off of ebay and there was no remote wire, so im pulling of the switched wire. Heading out to ground it better, what do you guys think it could be? Ive had the HU hooked up in the car before but never with an amp. the internal amp on hte HU is blown FYI, not that it matters much.

well the time is aproaching. '06 seasoon ends in 4 months and my senior year (and project) starts in about the same time too. I will be running in Street B, equiptment is as follows. OEM TC9 w/ Death Penalty Recone 15" Starting the season with a BX1205D and as i earn money (or if i save nough over the summer) and then i will have around $300 for another amp. I have a 2000 Mazda B3000 Ext Cab 4dr, Will be running either an Optima Yellow top of Blue Top. Set me a goal. I'll have a sticker made up saying "Powered By TeamSSA" and put it across my back windsheild if i hit it. My GF's Uncle used to be a part of Team Kicker and before that Team Roxfor Fosgate. He said if i wa…

my sub amp is a kenwood excelon. u cant bypas the xover... right now i just cranked it 200hz at a fixed 18db slope. and use an 80 hz 18 (or 12) on the hu. i forget if the 2 frequencies combine or if there separate of each other.... i think it was explained to me once awhile back that they somehow combine so i would have like a 75 hz with 36db slope.... what would u recommend i do...

I have 2 sd1v2 10" running on a 1000d. I like the sd1v2s and all but want a little more. Anyone experienced Kicker CVTs. If so will they hit harder than these sundowns? The sd1v2s are sq's, are the CVT's straight SPLs?

I am getting two Maw-15's and I was wanting to put them in a Ported Enclosure tuned to 30hz. But I drive a 1996 Ford Taurus and I'm worried I will come up a little short on Trunk Space. Any Ideas for the box Or do those subs sound good enough in a Sealed Enclosure? Thanks In Advance Guys. ~MadroX

I have an old 2 channel amp that i wAnt to put in my truck. Should it go on tye front door 6.5s or on the back door 6.5s? My sub is in the back seat also... But what would sound better? Iv been told the back would sound better... But i feel the front would. What do you guys think? They are the kicker ds series 6.5s and its like a 40rms amp or so per channel... Coment please!

ok, so im about to start a T-line enclosure for a single 10" and im wondering if i should bother doing a double baffle, or even just double thick mounting plate. the line is only 5 inches wide and 11" tall, so its naturally pretty well braced, and it will probably only be seeing somewhere between 250 and 400 watts. so will a double baffle really help? if not, do you think that i should use a mounting plate to give the screws more wood to bite into? thanks for any input

This goes out to Team Defj/Team Xtreme's Jeremy Smithers. He just posted a 157.8 at the IdbL Event in Fort Drum which gets him 2nd loudest in the WORLD in that class!!! Awesome job dude!!! You definitely deserve it!! It's been a long road that's gonna pay off in the end!! for the good guuys!!!

I got 4th in 139.9 after busting out against alpine. But I got to take Bill out in round 1 so that made my day 1-6th place finishers in 139.9 all qualified with a perfect score My scores for the day, 145.0 windows up 145.8 windows down 146.6 drivers down All on music (jeezy, ~40hz) Thanks DC for making a lvl 4 strong enough to hold 2800w rms -Derw

ok XTRemeasures, I think i'll deff be down next weekend for this event you where talking about, could you post up the details for me, and i'll call ya when I get there. thanks in advnace. Also, who else is gonna be in attendence?

I have a lot better success in making 1 single run with the port if i side fire rather then fire back. I prefer not to have to bend the port(s) is why i am asking if there is anything "off" sounding to this. My max square dimensions in cargo area is - (for this height) 42" wide x 12" high x 24.25" deep. If i were leave a 7" gap in the width to allow air to escape out of the box and shoot up towards the car, i would then have- 35" wide x 12" high x 24.25" deep. At the very back of the box on the side, i would, for example, have a 10.5" high x 4" wide port. I'm assuming i should have it as far back in the car as possible when side firing. If i choose to side fire, should i …