SPL & SQ / Fabrication

hey all just built my first 6th order and it came out beautifully. this was for an fi x 12 and pounds for what it is and what power im throwing to it. and illl be sure to have picks of it upp tomoro. also did my blowthrough and that was a succes as well. just wanted to say thanks for the help

looking at possibly building a 6th order box for my 10" ssa xcon.. first of all i would like to know how you figure port area needed when building such an enclosure. for a standard vented box i show i need around 35" at 30hz more at higher hz obv. if i use this Car Audio - PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES and use the bandpass option i would need a box the size of my car in order to tune it low enough... clearly theirs something im missing ? i have roughly 4 maybe 5 cubes i can work with would love to hear some input

I have a great interest in the science of box design and I've seen several examples around the 'net of folks building high-power series-tuned 6th order bandpass boxes for SPL purposes. One common design theme seems to be to purposefully undersize the rear port, the reason given is for "cone control". This appears counter-productive to me because the frequency where port velocity will be the highest, and thus having an undersized port will have the most effect (whatever that effect may be), is at the tuning frequency when cone excursion is at a minimum anyway. It seems to me all these guys are doing is making a 6th order bandpass that becomes a 4th order basspass with a…

I want to know how to design my own bandpass enclosure. Can anyone link me to something to read? i wanna do 18s in my cut through but the box is going to have to be bandpass as my opening is only about 10x40. and i dont want someone to just design me one. i wanna know why the sealed chamber has to be this big and why the ported chamber has to that big and how to tune them and what not. i know its not an easy thing to grasp but you had to start somewhere... how are you guys designing them?

Hey, I have a whole trunk to fill on a Impala 1972. I plan on either getting (4) 12 BTL or (2) 15 BTL. What do you guys suggest for this trunk and setup? I have seen 4 12s in a straight box going across but dont know if these require more space. Maybe have two on either side in an arrow up formation, speakers facing the rear trunk. ( ^ ). I plan to build it square ported and have an appeal once done.

im looking at my max dimensions and it looks like its going to be around 8 cubes and its most likely going to be tuned to 33hertz and i was wondering if thats too big? its a shared chamber subs and port up(going in a pickup)

1 shitty prefab enclosure =$70 1 dc level 4 12 bnib =$100 1 Audioque 1200d =$249 131.1 with term lab on the dash 1 Custom enclosure From Audio innovations =$ 200 1 dc level 4 12 bnib =$ 100 1 Audioque 1200d =$249 139.3 dB with term lab on the dash 8.2 dB Gain= PRICELESS I still have shitty 4 gauge power wire. Stock electrical. Cap:( and ground is not grounded properly

if anyone knows were or who makes 8 inch aero ports please text me 606-875-9811 thanks

I know it may take some time specially being designed in mm (As I live in Aus) but can someone or as many people as possible confirm roughly these figures??? Also, feel free to use this design and enjoy!!! BOX HEIGHT IS 260mm, 224mm are Internal Dimensions as all pieces join to TOP/BOTTOM ------------ --------- Also I designed this for a 8" Rockford Fosgate P2D28 sub w/ a bit of extra port area for sub upgrades that may have up to 13mm in XMAX such as say a DD sub (P2D28 has 9.5mm)

I seen on a build log this guy put 8" subs in his doors for mid bass. He didnt use a box or anything but a adapter so the sub can be mounted. - i am thinking about doing this to my s15 but i imagined that the sub will need the right enclosure to play good. So it leaves me with the question.. will an 8inch sub play good in a door without anything but an adapter for the sub to be mounted. I cannot ask him how it sounded because i dont remeber where the log was. -thanks Dom.

I am in the process of redoing my front stage. It will be an active three way. My head unit is a Pioneer DEX-P99RS and my amplifier for my front stage is an Arc Audio KS900.6. My goals for my front stage is to have excellent mid bass and to create a realistic soundstage with excellent imaging. To kick of my install I started with the midbass. I currently have a Viper 650.2 component set (running active) installed for midrange/tweeter duties. I will be replacing the Viper set. My midbass install consists of Dayton Audio RS225-4 drivers mounted in very tiny (.2-.3^3ft) sealed enclosures with ScanSpeak flow resistors. The ScanSpeak flow resistors are AP mats about 4" in diam…

Im thinking about building a new box to try and improve sq in my setup a little. i have a 3.75 cu ft box with like 60 inches of port tuned to 32 now, slot port on one side of the two subs. this box is a little bigger than what my subs call for and is an awful lot of port area. im thinking about bringing the box down to 3.2 or smaller and using a 8 round port and flaring the ends tuning to 32. if my math is right 8 is 50 sq inches of port correct? im thinking about choking it down to 7" which is like 38~ and run @ 3 cu ft. im running like 1600-2000 watts BXI2006d would the round port sound better. as with the smaller box? edit" running 2 DC audio lvl4 12s. call for 1.5 c…

Hey guys I built a box for my zv5 15 and used an 8" sonotube because of the port area and how aero port don't take up as much air space as a slot. A buddy of mines saw my set up and questioned if that port was too big for my box. i came to the conclusion of using and 8" port by doing some math and finding the port area. Which is 50" a little less than the recommended port area on the sundown website. But I'm assuming that's a slot port and I've read areonports require less port area than a slot so I guessed I was in the green. But after my friend brought it up I researched and found a site that said 6" is good for a 3.5 to 4.5 box. So I'm here asking for your …

has anyone here tried to build an 8th order bandpass. i ask because i have had decent succeswith the 4th and 6th orders but now im thinking of trying a 8th order just for spl and was wondering if anyone had any experience building one

so i got a deal on a 91 240sx hatch its in perfect shape and runs great for $1000. my dads racin buddy has to many cars so hes hookin me up. it'll be a couple weeks b4 im able to get or see the car in person cause im waitin on my lawyer to call me and tell me to come get a check. so i've been googling and youtubin all day and i can only find 1 with a real system and its walled and im not wall reaady lol. so i come to you guys for help cause i know someone has or knows someone with a 240 and a system. i am wondering if i have space in the hatch area for a good 4cu ft. box after displacements kerf ported and tuned @ 33hz for my rf power hx2 15 powered by my saz1500. so im t…

I'm just trying to design a new box for a 93 civic hatch. Just wondering if anybody has any suggestions for me. There will be 3/4'' all-thread rod for bracing. The box is for 4 12'' pioneer premier ts-w3002spl. It will be in a wall config. subs on driver side port on passenger. all thoughts are welcome. This is what i got so far.. http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/3224/1061/33058030018_large.jpg

ok so im hopefully gonna get pix tomorrow and start my new build log. ill also get measurements of my hatch area tomorrow. i've got my 4ft3 box tuned at 33hz in my 93 lx mustang hatch right now and its just to big. it currently sets taking up half my backseat(folded down) and a 1/3 of the hatch area. reason for this is it wont slide back anymore in the hatch area cause the box hits rear window. saz-1500 is temporarely mounted to the backseat right behind front seats. so i need help on how to face my sub and port to get the max. loudness and airflow from my rf power hx2 15 while still being able to use my backseat for its intended purpose. also im set on 33hz for port tuni…

I am thinking about picking up a new ride to play with and probably compete in. i know CRXs are concidered "loud" but what about a camaro. Similar shape. much bigger ballz! anyway i was wondering if anyone has seen any loud camaros at the shows.

Just finished an install on my 95 probe. Put a DD 3515 in 3.5 cubic foot (after displacement) box with 2 - 4" aeroports at 17.75". Hooked to a RF 1000a2. Box is a standard CRX design. I've been toying with box placement and right now its sub up port to the side. Sounds decent, but a friend had this exact setup in his 98 Explorer and it was quite a bit better in there. So I'm assuming the problem is related to box design, tuning or placement. Any suggestions??

I am new here and need some help, so if you could help me, thanks in advance. I have a 96 Mitsubishi Eclipse (with a sun roof) and 2 12" audiobahn aw1200q subs. I have a lanzar 4000 watt amp for the subs and a stinger battery and batcap 800 as well as 0 gauge wiring all around. can you help me with a setup that will "pound" right now I am hitting a 141.xx thanks you!

hey everyone, so, soon I will be getting a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I have the majority of my system ready to install. (please dont judge, i was not as educated when i bought this stuff) Rockford Fosgate P2 12" (2011 model) (it meh...), Rockford R500-1 amp (low efficiency, 58% @ 2 ohms) , Sony CDX-GT565UP (love it), and KnuKonceptz 4 gauge kit. right ow I have a crappy box to test with, its 1.72 cuft tuned to 31Hz via 4" aero. I will be building a 2-2.2 cuft box tuned to 32 once i am sure how i want the port and sub positioned. the current box i have the sub is on one side and the port on the other. so it will be easy to experiment how it will be positioned. my qu…

I want my subs to face up with the port up like one of my previous boxes. I cant seem to get a lot of input and like Ive said previously the pro designers dotn wanna mess with a camaro enclosure. Assuming ive done my math correctly does this look like a suitable enclosure? I just started using sketchup so I have figured everything out so nothings 45'ed or anything.

I'm posting this up again....... THIS time heavily revised, it now has slot port calculations, and CUT SHEETS! This EXCEL based box calculator will take your enclosure size, woofer displacement, the wood thickness you plan on using and the frequency you wish to tune it to and gives you the GROSS enclosure size, dimensions (Including CUSTOM dimensions in which you input two of the OUTSIDE measurements and it gives you the last one.) PLUS gives you the cutout sizes for each panel of the enclosure you just asked for....... I'm putting it out for real world testing to be sure the math is good and the cuts are helpful......... Let me know ASAP what you think and what proble…

alright ive came to the conclusion that with school and measly allowance i dont have the time or money to get into the really competitive comps, but i remeber hearing that some compitions have std size truck divisions if thats true how is that division broken up? if there is such a division im going to try and be running 2 SS rl-i8 around 800 watts rms (if youve seen my newb sign in you know why i have to try). do comps break down divisions by power number of speakers size of speakers....thanks sorry according to my eng4 teacher i have horrible paragraph structure and sentence flowing skills

Ok ppl I will be making a ported box for my subs, my external dimme. are 38" wide by 14" height and 17" in depth,, My question is, I will like to tune it to 35hz or a bit lower are these dimme ok ? my subs are HX2 12 "punch series dvc 4 ohms will this be ok ??? in order to be on the right step...... ok at this time I'm using bass box pro 6, I'm trying to get the hang out of it ok anybody correct me if I'm wrong ,vent side will be 12.5 height + 12.25 long and 2 inch from side wall (26.75 sq inch port) tuned to almost 35 ........