SPL & SQ / Fabrication

This guy is nuts. Many of you have probably already seen this but it was my first time coming across it... Dodge Sprinter

Which port, on average, is after for spl? What is the major goods and bads of each? I will be using 1 maybe 2 dc xl 12s and then later 3 level 2 8s or sa-8s.

I drive an Olds Bravada (basically a blazer) and I drive it daily, but its a weekend warrior for spl. I have an AA Havoc 15, I'm building the box to the SSA Icon enclosure specs, and running it off a MB Quart Discus 1500. Which would sound better/get louder, facing the sub and port up, or sub and port back? If I face the sub up I can actually use some of my cargo area.. but that isn't a big necessity. It is a four door if that matters.

hey whats up guys i have seen on the internet and on a few forums people using bedliner as a sound deadener does it work and has anyone had any good or bad experiences from it

Just wondering what you guys think the best programs for simulatiing frequency response, SPL, and similar things, especially for in car or in room calculations. I have WINisd now, alpha and beta, but they both yield problems on my computer for some reason and I can't seem to figure it out. The programs seem pretty easy to use, maybe I just haven't explored these enough. What do you use, does it cost anything, ease of use, knowledge required, different features....

anyone ever used this box calculator before? box calculator im having trouble figuring out the port as on my cut sheet it says on a 30x17x9.5 box= 2.05 cubes. tuned to 32.34 hz that my top/bottom port is a 2"x 1.65" cut? i just dont understand this, as this number seems way too small to be an actual port. it is a 3 common wall port as well. any help would be greatly appreciated!

I need some music in the garage while i work on my car so it's not dead out there... I have spare parts from car audio that i will use, so as u see, nothing in specific like building in the car... I have a 10" sub Audiobahn Eternal wired to sundown 100.4 bridged at 8ohm. Outputting only ~108w on a test tone is PLENTY of power for this 10" sub. It can successfully drop down to 20hz on some custom music i made so i know it's not a bad driver to use for simple music setup. Now, the box i have it in is not suitable.. but i have a problem... The low end extension doesn't become really audible below ~30hz unless i am standing 20ft away from it. How can I get decent low end outp…

Okay so ive been doing loads of research on parts-express and so forth on finding a sub for a 1974 MGB. I really only want something super small and getting something for better sound quality than just two 6.5's in the doors. Behind the seats is a bit of space but want to keep mostly the stock look. However, there is a compartment where a second battery used to sit that is no longer there and I think I could find a small box in there. I measured the dimensions and can get about .15-.18 cuft gross airspace without making anything look out of the ordinary. I havent found much for the 8 inch woofers or subs that will suffice in that airspace, however there are various o…

hello im intrested in finding out where i can pick up ther softwear and hardwear to mesure sound on my laptop

Birch is looking a lot better than MDF atleast in Miami humidity for a 2002 Chevy Avalanche midgate enclosure. But I need help on the best specs to get the most out of 2 Nightshade 15's sub box. I'm going to coat it with spray on Truck bed liner to protect it. Sundown recommends a 2^3 enclosure but I just wanted any tips and the best layout that's worked for you all.

I have been working on an enclosure for 2 SSA Zcons. Spent the last week on these. Learning how to use sketch up and trying to understand torres calculation tool. I have come up with two designs using these. I am looking for some advice from someone to help me confirm my that what I have done is correct to what has been drawn. I could send my sketchup design to you for advice. I have used the torres calculation tuner to determine my port lengths and sizes. I am not 100% sure I have fully understand all senarios which change my calculations in this calculator.

i want to make the box fit in my 2000 honda accord and made the measurements on the bigest box i could make 34 inches long 21 inches deep and 16.5 inches high (might be able to go higher) will this be big enough? and how big should the port be to tune it to 32 hertz?

Like title says guys i have these subs laying around i dont have dimensions as the car is my gfs and she would like to have some bass in there so instead of having them collect dust and her hatch looks small then might as well throw them in there so im looking for the box to be tuned to 32hz. Mainly listen to rap/hip hop and some light rock. Forgot what else to put in this been a while since i done this alright hope to hear from some knowledgeable people here

Whats the best way to cut a 14in diameter hole in plexiglass? Also, cut a 5in diameter hole in fiberglass? Thanks.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=23917

i made a box using RE box builder and this is what i cam up with i am putting a 18" night shade in it how much air space do i have and whats it tuned at i think iKnow but wanna double check with you guys first W=36 H= 22 TD= 24 Bd= 24 1"MDF port 1= 6" port 2= 4"

What is the best place to find 4" id aero ports that don't flare out past 6.75" maybe 7" that won't break the bank? What would be the best brand for the price? Is it better or easier to use schedule 40 pvc pipe or the tubes you can buy for the flares or get a whole kit? Will any flare fit pvc pipe? Would they work if the port inside the box faced each other about 16" apart, firing in opposite directions? Ps i will have 4 sa-8s in about 2.73 cubes before any displacement with about 500 watts going to each and i do not have enough room to use 6". And i want to have it tuned for daily use, anywhere in between 33-40 hz

Hey I need to. Build a new box. I have mangled one of my subs so I need to down grade to one sub. I'm wondering if anyone has Term-pak. I just need a basic box 2.5 cu/f with big port tuned 31htz if someone could run the numbers for me it would be greatly appreciated. I really miss my bass.

When Calculating port length, How can you enter the box volume after port displacement, without knowing what the port length will be. Or do you put in what you want your box to be after the displacements and then design a box that takes this into account. For example, if you want a box to be 4.5 cuft. after displacements you would use this to calculate the port length. Then after you have that you would calculate the port displacement lets say is .5 , SO you would do .5 + 4.5 to get 5 cuft., then design a box that is five cuft before port displacement and use the port length that was calculated to get the desired tuning? If someone needs further explanation please ask. …

Can I get away with using a single 4 inch port for my Icon 12? I don't have enough room to get 2 ports in due to the length. Lets assume the box is 3 cubes after sub displacement. Can be made smaller if that is optimal.

Ok, I have done the measurments for my truck and i should be able to fit 2 10" icons in my truck. They will be in a 2.5ft^3 box after driver and port displacement. I used the calculator at carstero.com and it says that i need a ~8" diameter port for the box tuned to 30 hz. Would that be a suitable frequency for that size box? If so the only opitions for port size is a single 5" port 27" long, or two 4" ports at 20" long? The single port will be on the driver side firing into the side of the cab, and the 2 ports will be on either side of the box. Will ports that small be choaking(spell check) the air flow, or will they be fine? im leaning towards the 2 4" ports though…

I might be doing an install with a clarion DRZ9255 with a active setup on the HAT L1's .. wondering how accurate the built in crossover is on the clarion if anyone here has used it in this fashion

2 12" type r's need dimensions (height and length) finishing the box tomorrow. One single square port. Tuning box to 33-37hz, probaby about 35. Box is 37x26x13 with .75" particle. Subs are facing up.

I'm in the process of designing an enclosure for my Fi BTL UFO 12. I've drawn up two different designs with the only difference being the way the port is constructed. I've seen it done both ways, but I am unsure which would be most beneficial in my situation. Each design is 2.85ft^3 net tuned to 33hz for a front firing setup sealed from the trunk of a 99 Pontiac Grand Am. Does anyone have any experience/input on which would work best for me as far as loading, port noise etc.?Please use "left design" and "right design" when referencing for clarity as I am unsure what to call each one specifically. Note: I will not be adding any 45's within the port, but each edge will be…

Most of you know that there was another vehicle added to the fleet. 1999 GMC burban. Now the old 97 DUBurban had a massive 8ft^3 enclosure in it and housed 2 Brahma 15's. 4000W amp running them. Well this time its all about saving space and keeping everything stealth. My plan is to flip the spare tire around and glass the inside of the rim. Then i'll glass a mdf enclosure onto that so i can get my needed air space. Right now ive got only 4" of cargo area taken up by the enclosure because its to tall and wide. Sub will be my 12.o.44 sealed running off of my autotek 5600X. Bro will be doing the glassing work since he has the experience. No idea when this will all take place…