SoundSplinter

Well I took apart the stereo in my old car so I can transfer into my new car...and I was looking at the sub and noticed some slight oxidation on the pole piece. So I took out some leftover Eagle 1 Never-Dull and went to work. Came out pretty nice. Also re-ran the bridge wires on the 'inside' so it'll hug closer to the magnet and have a cleaner look.I gotta go back and redo some of the area near the magnet boot though.

Is it clipping? Took the sub out, and it still made that sound on lower volumes. It's not bottoming out for sure, but what the hell can cause it? I'm using the same box and amp that I had in my old car, and it worked like a charm then.

I am becoming more and more convinced that the RL-I 10" driver will be the driver of choice for my new system in my 2003 Dodge Ram Quad Cab. Ive purchased a stealth box that installs under the rear seat providing enclosure space for 2 10"s with .65 cube of airspace per 10". After debating between the Diamond Audio CM3/D3, Resonant Engineering SE and even the Elemental 11Kv.2 I was given the RL-I 10" as another suggestion that seems to be the best choice. I went to the soundsplinter site to order 2 of these subs and was directed to a page stating they were out of stock. Does anyone here know when they will be replenished enough for sale? I have my enclosure, amp, and H…

which box (in your opinion) would be better suited for my 2 RL-p's? a 5ft sealed or 5ft net ported @ 36Hz? listening to my setup for a while (ported@36) i noticed that it peaks alot more than my boxes tuned @ 30 and i'm kinda missing my LOW notes. if i tune the ported box lower, it will drop the net lower than 5, with recommended at 2.5/per i dont want to go lower than that. so what do you think?

i have heard many good things about the rl-i's and rl-p's. they both have awesome sq for eg. my question is out of the two series, which one has better sq? also is there any word on and rlp 10" coming any time soon? right now i have my eyes set on the rl-i 10" but i want to keep my options open.

08-21-2005 12:23 PM <b>The sound report</B> First, let me start off by saying that words can't even start to give these subwoofers justice. I'll do what I can. From the moment I started demo'ing tracks after installation, it was plainly apparent that these drivers reproduce sub bass frequencies with an almost effortless and airy authority. Their accuracy and strength is underscored when playing tracks with multiple layers of complex low-frequency sounds. A movie clip is an excellent example, with music playing, and lots of different sounds all happening at once. Another good test track is Cee-Lo, Sugar. Very few subwoofers that I've heard can execute some diff…

Hey. I just ordered an rl-p 15 and now I need a little help designing a ported box for it. After talking with Mike, I have decided to go with 2.5 cu ft net tuned to 28 hz. I would like the box to be about 30x17 1/2x??? Also, mike recommended somewhere between 35 and 40 sq inches of port area. Thanks. Eric

I'm looking to blow some minds of the ghetto people around here who think bigger is better. I was thinking about running 4 RL-i 8's tuned to around 30hz off of a Hifonics 2006d. I'm hitting 142db currently with a single 9500 12, and would like to at least be just as loud, if not louder. What do you guys think?

Im probaly going to be getting 4 RL-p's. Putting them in the back of a 96 explorer, any suggestions on AMPS (number of amps and what kind and how much power) , and enclosure type for the box... let me know, ihave enuf creativity to make it a kick ass setup, just need to get the physics down... lemme know your thoughts. Right now i have a 1 farad cap and 1 battery (under the hood), Any suggestions as to how to power these subs, what other kinds of things ill need,s ay second battery and or what? i have no idea what else ill need.

Hello everyone. New to the forum tonight. I spent most of today searching the net for a new 12" sub, since I have been out of the car stereo world for about 5 years. Wow, times have changed. Amps are huge and speakers are taking more watts than I can remember. I have an Audi A6 Avant (wagon), and I want to find the best 12" sub that I can run with my Cadence A5+HC 600x1 2 ohm amp. I listen to more rock than anything, but I also like trance and rap and country and etc... So, is it safe to assume the RL-p is one of the best choices available? How soon will the new sub be out? Any idea how much it will be? What is the best price for the RL-p? Finally, let me know i…

Just wondering I have owned a fair portion of tc designed and built drivers and I was wondering how close the Rl-p's are to the old audiomobie evo-r's. They look and I stress look very similar don't know about your coil choice or if you use shorting rings etc. Just wondering because if this product is similar I think I will suggest everyone I know to deal with you since any of the tc product I have had is awsome product with the evo-r's being one of my favs as I have owned a pair of 15's and a 12, also along with evo 10's. All did a great job and this SS gear looks to be on the same page so it should be very good stuff. Thanks for any input

I'm thinking of doing two boxes; each box containing dual Rl-i 8"s in between 1 and 1.3ft^3 with a 15" passive radiator tuned to about 30hz. So 4 total with two boxes I'll be glassing it all, and I'll have either my colossus GenXX or maybe even something nicer cough Goliath cough. According to the new testing its doing less power than the colossus but gets more spl due to the name I suppose . http://audioforum.termpro.com/ubb/ultimate...011444/p/3.html very intresting it's doing less power but but spl... So I'm thinking of trying something of that nature. I'm getting a pair of BD1500's soon I hope, so I'll test with those when I get the new truck. And *hopfully* 4 Rl-i…

Alright my RL-p 12 is on its way and now I'm trying to sort out the rest of the things I need. Because of money I am going to get either a Pheonix Gold Xenon 600.1 or a Kicker kx600.1 off ebay for an amp. Any suggestings? Also how and what do I need to wire my sub to my amp? I decided to build a box myself, so for 1 rlp with 600-700 watts at 2 ohms a sealed box should be around 1ft^3? What would be some common dimensions? Finally where is a site that could direct me in going about building a box. Thanks

I discovered by accident that Fast Reducer (painting supply) will remove the Logo from the subs very easy. I was using it to clean one since I got some overspray on it. The logo just wiped right off! Thats good for me, since one of mine has a logo and the other don't. Now they both don't LOL

About how much airspace will an RL-p take up if inverted? Is it basically ZERO (less than .05) or is something measurable? Thinking of inverting these babies, box design pends this question.

In trying to tweak my new RL-i 10, I noticed that the sub is very peaky from about 40-50 Hz, much louder than at 60-80 Hz. What can I do to remedy this? I have a .6 foot box, with around 350-400 watts going to the sub. The box is packed with polyfill. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave

how does 1.1 sealed sound? just right? edit 1.14 my bad

i have one question : how long is the voice coil on the rl-i 10 ? i managed to find on the internet a scaled 'technical' drawing and by my measurements, it's 45mm long. someone on a diffrent forum asked about the coil length and i want to give him a right answer

ok. im building a fiberglass enclosure for my soon to have rl-p 15, right now its setup to be a ported box it appears it will be 3-3.5^ft net internal dimentions, so once the sub and port are in...it shrinks down significantly, now i want one heck of a pounding sub, i'd be overjoyed with ~140 db, ill have a MA audio 1200wrmsx1@1ohm amp going to it, it will all be in the trunk,im hoping to get the 2ohm dvc one but i only see the 4ohm on the site...i sent and email about that, hopefully i can get the 2ohm, so my question is is that gonna be too small for ported or should i plug the hole and seal it up, which with it being fiberglass would be a whole lot easier to do, will i…

Two questions: I was wondering if it is ok to slightly overpower this pair of DVC subs in a small sealed box. I have an MB Quart RAA2400 amp that feeds 400w RMS x2 @ 2 ohms (maybe underrated also..) Also, since my amp feeds 400w x 2 @ 2 ohms, I can wire these DVC 4ohm subs so that my amp sees a load of 2 ohms in each channel... right? Thanks in advance!

hey guys i intend on building 2 boxes one sealed @ 14x14x17.5 (4sure measurments) and one ported 30Wx13.5Hx14.5D giving me 2cf @ 34Hz (sound good) and is there a difference bewteen the slot port and the round port with this sub

i got 2 15's on the way but i cant find the cutout dimentions anywhere. does anyone have it? and the outside measurement?thanks

i have one Rl-i12 sub and i'm designing a vented box for it in program called 'Bassbox'. i know vented enclosure is not recommended for this sub but it won't be run with more than 300-400watts anyway. oh and this box won't be used in a car but at home. so now i'm not sure about the size, volume of the box. the same is with diameter and length of the vent. well i want to know what would u recommend for each one of this exemples individually: 1. what would u recommend for BEST PERFORMANCE of the driver? 2. ....for low tuning. ap. 22hz oh please tell me also what do u recommend for car box (i will probably build one later on...). that's it... size, volume etc... thanks, Pek…

need some box help gonna be building my first ported box i listen to mostly rap and from what ive read i should go for like 8 cubes tuned to 32 does this sound right

Should be on their way this week. A pair of them in 3cf tuned to 34Hz. Got the box being build right now too. Can't wait.... I will post pics when I get them installed and metered.