SoundSplinter

I'm looking to blow some minds of the ghetto people around here who think bigger is better. I was thinking about running 4 RL-i 8's tuned to around 30hz off of a Hifonics 2006d. I'm hitting 142db currently with a single 9500 12, and would like to at least be just as loud, if not louder. What do you guys think?

with 3000 watts how maany rl-i 10 or 8 would u use ive got about 22 cubes to work with

Well I took apart the stereo in my old car so I can transfer into my new car...and I was looking at the sub and noticed some slight oxidation on the pole piece. So I took out some leftover Eagle 1 Never-Dull and went to work. Came out pretty nice. Also re-ran the bridge wires on the 'inside' so it'll hug closer to the magnet and have a cleaner look.I gotta go back and redo some of the area near the magnet boot though.

You guys ever gonna come out with a 10" RL-P? If you did, i would be interested.

I ported the box, and headed out to a local show today. First run was a 137.2. After that I tweaked the amp, and moved the box around for the second run. We came in second place with a 139.6. Keep in mind, this is with 2 Sound Splinters 8" & a Directed 1500D. Here's a pic (Amy Cano). I took this cause I couldn't stay for the cirts to be handed out.

Alright my RL-p 12 is on its way and now I'm trying to sort out the rest of the things I need. Because of money I am going to get either a Pheonix Gold Xenon 600.1 or a Kicker kx600.1 off ebay for an amp. Any suggestings? Also how and what do I need to wire my sub to my amp? I decided to build a box myself, so for 1 rlp with 600-700 watts at 2 ohms a sealed box should be around 1ft^3? What would be some common dimensions? Finally where is a site that could direct me in going about building a box. Thanks

So I am looking for a new vehicle but I am still wanting to do the console for the 8s. Need a few opinions. I have about 1.3 cu.ft. with room for 1, 2, or 3 of them. I also have 2 amp that I can use. 275 HCCA 75x2@4 300@4 150x2@2 600@2 300x2@1 1200@1 [email protected] or the 600D 250@4 400@2 600@1 So power isnt a problem. But my question is 1.3 gross with 2 of the 8s one rear fire the other downfire. Ported or sealed? I have the room for both. If I go sealed I will probly make smaller chambers in the console, ported dont really know with a box that big. I guess that I could just make it smaller or make an internal chamber like the sealed would be. Man am I rambling. Giv…

I am becoming more and more convinced that the RL-I 10" driver will be the driver of choice for my new system in my 2003 Dodge Ram Quad Cab. Ive purchased a stealth box that installs under the rear seat providing enclosure space for 2 10"s with .65 cube of airspace per 10". After debating between the Diamond Audio CM3/D3, Resonant Engineering SE and even the Elemental 11Kv.2 I was given the RL-I 10" as another suggestion that seems to be the best choice. I went to the soundsplinter site to order 2 of these subs and was directed to a page stating they were out of stock. Does anyone here know when they will be replenished enough for sale? I have my enclosure, amp, and H…

Im probaly going to be getting 4 RL-p's. Putting them in the back of a 96 explorer, any suggestions on AMPS (number of amps and what kind and how much power) , and enclosure type for the box... let me know, ihave enuf creativity to make it a kick ass setup, just need to get the physics down... lemme know your thoughts. Right now i have a 1 farad cap and 1 battery (under the hood), Any suggestions as to how to power these subs, what other kinds of things ill need,s ay second battery and or what? i have no idea what else ill need.

i have heard many good things about the rl-i's and rl-p's. they both have awesome sq for eg. my question is out of the two series, which one has better sq? also is there any word on and rlp 10" coming any time soon? right now i have my eyes set on the rl-i 10" but i want to keep my options open.

I do not see a phone number to call Mike. Does he take calls. I would like to talk to him about the 8s. Thanks Mike J.

Two questions: I was wondering if it is ok to slightly overpower this pair of DVC subs in a small sealed box. I have an MB Quart RAA2400 amp that feeds 400w RMS x2 @ 2 ohms (maybe underrated also..) Also, since my amp feeds 400w x 2 @ 2 ohms, I can wire these DVC 4ohm subs so that my amp sees a load of 2 ohms in each channel... right? Thanks in advance!

Hey. I just ordered an rl-p 15 and now I need a little help designing a ported box for it. After talking with Mike, I have decided to go with 2.5 cu ft net tuned to 28 hz. I would like the box to be about 30x17 1/2x??? Also, mike recommended somewhere between 35 and 40 sq inches of port area. Thanks. Eric

hey guys i intend on building 2 boxes one sealed @ 14x14x17.5 (4sure measurments) and one ported 30Wx13.5Hx14.5D giving me 2cf @ 34Hz (sound good) and is there a difference bewteen the slot port and the round port with this sub

ok. im building a fiberglass enclosure for my soon to have rl-p 15, right now its setup to be a ported box it appears it will be 3-3.5^ft net internal dimentions, so once the sub and port are in...it shrinks down significantly, now i want one heck of a pounding sub, i'd be overjoyed with ~140 db, ill have a MA audio 1200wrmsx1@1ohm amp going to it, it will all be in the trunk,im hoping to get the 2ohm dvc one but i only see the 4ohm on the site...i sent and email about that, hopefully i can get the 2ohm, so my question is is that gonna be too small for ported or should i plug the hole and seal it up, which with it being fiberglass would be a whole lot easier to do, will i…

I'm thinking of doing two boxes; each box containing dual Rl-i 8"s in between 1 and 1.3ft^3 with a 15" passive radiator tuned to about 30hz. So 4 total with two boxes I'll be glassing it all, and I'll have either my colossus GenXX or maybe even something nicer cough Goliath cough. According to the new testing its doing less power than the colossus but gets more spl due to the name I suppose . http://audioforum.termpro.com/ubb/ultimate...011444/p/3.html very intresting it's doing less power but but spl... So I'm thinking of trying something of that nature. I'm getting a pair of BD1500's soon I hope, so I'll test with those when I get the new truck. And *hopfully* 4 Rl-i…

i have one question : how long is the voice coil on the rl-i 10 ? i managed to find on the internet a scaled 'technical' drawing and by my measurements, it's 45mm long. someone on a diffrent forum asked about the coil length and i want to give him a right answer

Just wondering I have owned a fair portion of tc designed and built drivers and I was wondering how close the Rl-p's are to the old audiomobie evo-r's. They look and I stress look very similar don't know about your coil choice or if you use shorting rings etc. Just wondering because if this product is similar I think I will suggest everyone I know to deal with you since any of the tc product I have had is awsome product with the evo-r's being one of my favs as I have owned a pair of 15's and a 12, also along with evo 10's. All did a great job and this SS gear looks to be on the same page so it should be very good stuff. Thanks for any input

how does 1.1 sealed sound? just right? edit 1.14 my bad

About how much airspace will an RL-p take up if inverted? Is it basically ZERO (less than .05) or is something measurable? Thinking of inverting these babies, box design pends this question.

I discovered by accident that Fast Reducer (painting supply) will remove the Logo from the subs very easy. I was using it to clean one since I got some overspray on it. The logo just wiped right off! Thats good for me, since one of mine has a logo and the other don't. Now they both don't LOL

i have one Rl-i12 sub and i'm designing a vented box for it in program called 'Bassbox'. i know vented enclosure is not recommended for this sub but it won't be run with more than 300-400watts anyway. oh and this box won't be used in a car but at home. so now i'm not sure about the size, volume of the box. the same is with diameter and length of the vent. well i want to know what would u recommend for each one of this exemples individually: 1. what would u recommend for BEST PERFORMANCE of the driver? 2. ....for low tuning. ap. 22hz oh please tell me also what do u recommend for car box (i will probably build one later on...). that's it... size, volume etc... thanks, Pek…

I am currently running a eD 15a powered by a PG 1200.1 in a 1.5 ft^3 sealed box. I was wondering how the SQ of the RL-P compared to that of the 15a (both in the 15" version and in the recommend sealed box). I know that SQ varies from my ears to your ears, but I just wondering what people think that have listened to both. I enjoy the 15a but I think that I can get something better. I know that both subs share a similar motors, but the coils and suspension on the RL-P are an suposedly an improvement over the 15a. I do not want to spend my hard earned money on a sub that will not be that much of an improvement. Thanks in advance, Matt

Ok, After doing a few more hours of research tonight, I learned a few things: Couches can act like bass traps & its ok to fire the driver up. In light of the furniture issue, I do like the two front firing drivers with the one being higher than my couch. I like the idea of having a driver that is unobstructed from my listening position. What do you think of going for the same dimensions as the thiel ss4? 19"W x 28"D x 51" H With 2 RL-p15's, and the Adire 1200@4ohm with LT plate amp? http://www.adireaudio.com/Home/ADASubAmps.htm I am willing to adjust the cabinet size to match the drivers, but this is where I am stuck. The soundsplinter site says "2.5 cu ft, with the g…

Should be on their way this week. A pair of them in 3cf tuned to 34Hz. Got the box being build right now too. Can't wait.... I will post pics when I get them installed and metered.