Sundown Audio

Hey everyone I'm, having issues right now with my amp. I don't know too much about wiring and etc but my installer says that the amp I have isn't stable at 2ohm's and won't try 1ohm for fear of blowing the amp. It's stable at 4ohms but thats it, so right I have no idea what to do about it. Is the amp just bad? I ordered it almost two months ago but just installed it today and forgot to even see if I had a warranty when purchasing. Also the amp as it is now is pushing two AA havoc 12's in a sealed box and the amp is just rattling BAD. Like real real bad were it's so annoying and loud that everyone can hear it. So whats going on? Is this amp just bad in both it's st…

well last night sundown audio claimed there first victom the sub will remain nameless (for now ) but yea it didnt even play for 5 min an it umm yea lol later ill post picks but i was higly over powering the sub i had 2 saz-1500 strapped wide open lol good time

This Bronco belongs to my good friend, Brandon. So far only a single SAZ-1500D for power @ 1.33 ohms, single run 4 awg power wire, stock alt, one Powermaster D3100! Coming soon... dual alternators and two SAZ-3000Ds! Video uploaded shortly. This box is tuned to the mid 20s and was made for daily low-bass pounding His goal is to bass-race with it and not to generate peak scores, what class is to be determined.

Any idea when we can expect these bad boys or still looking at "some time in the undetermined future?"

We are working on 12x 15s for a customer build... few teaser shots -- more as it progresses. These are being customized with chrome 4-spoke frames. Standard build otherwise with 2 spiders, single leads, and standard cone -- most efficient setup for this application.

so i see the nightshade is rated for 1500wrms, now seriously what would a nightshade do with 1500wrms would it acutally be enough power for one? im asking cause i only have 1400wrms and was looking at the dc lv4 but if the nightshade only needs 1500wrms i might consider one.

I started running my Sundown 3000 at .5 ohms a little over a week ago, and I figured I'd share my experience with performance in regards to temp of the amp. Subs: 2 dual 2 ohm audiopulse axis wired down to .5 Electrical: 200 amp alt, one kinetik 1800 under the hood and one kinetik 1800 in the trunk. Sealed box, 2 cubes per sub, impedence rises over 1 ohm at 18 hz and doesnt drop below 1.1 ohms after that. Gains on the amp are set with 50volume on the deck as max Before started I took the temp of the amp it was 62 F I started playin music on volume 40 for 8 minutes, then I turned it up to 50 for 13 minutes. Total test time 21 mins. I measured the temp of the amp again: The…

Stock 15" D2 Nightshade - Short Coil, Stock Cooling, 3 spiders Power = 2x SAZ-3000Ds strapped @ 1 ohm (internal strapping) I matched my best score with the "Monster" design. This confirms my theory that the Monster design *NEEDED* a ton of power to get loud - which confirms my decision to move with the NS-X first and continue work on the Monster design to increase efficiency AND power handling. I tried turning up the head unit more but did not gain any more SPL - just got the sub hotter!

First to post it. HA HA All BS aside I really like it thus far.

Well wife got a newer car, 2005 Kia Spectra5 and of course I wanted to put a system in it. So since I couldn't find a buyer for my Alpine CDA-9835 that will be going in this week when the kit/harness arrive. I will be putting some Polk 6.5 coaxials in the doors for now, those are in her old car atm. Just this past weekend I worked a deal where I built a box for a single 12 and swapped that for a SA8 barely broken in. So today I decided to go ahead and build the box for the SA8. Also picked up a MTX4001 400W@2ohm mono amp for $60 from a friend of mine who owns a pawn shop in Merrit Island. Here's a few pics of the box; That's it for now, gotta pick up charcoal gray …

Hello guys, i have a question about properly powering my saz 3000d. Right now i am running 3 group 34/78 yellowtops. One of them has a dead cell so i am going to remove all of them and redo my battery bank. Under hood battery is a redtop group 34. My total rms wattage is around 3600 watts including my mid amp. I've been searching google all morning looking for a straight-forward answer to this question. I havent found any real answers just mostly suggestions. this is a daily setup so reserve capacity is the key here. I have been looking at the xs power d3100 but i dont know if 1 will be enough or do i need 2? Also, i have a 270a mechman alt, all big three upgrades and dua…

Thanks guys for all the support -- this month has been the best in our history for sales. I appreciate all the continued business and support ! To celebrate I may put some things on sale for March

New Box : 7 cubes with 195 in^2 of port area You can see it is very close to the hatch... this was not as planned - I have to move the amp rack forward to move the box forward. Due to the proximity to the hatch my loudest frequency dropped to 45 Hz (the vehicle actually peaks at 53 Hz) - but it put up a good number anyway! 154.2 dB @ 45 Hz legal dB Drag Style 157.0 dB @ 45 Hz in the kick panel one door open 2x SAZ-3000Ds @ 1/2 ohm and 17.9v 2x Nightshade v.2 Prototypes (the SPL is about the same as the original but these have a higher long-term power handling) I have not done ANY resin work to the box... no corner smoothing pieces... no sanding... nothing like that. So…

The system 2004 Monte Carlo SS Sundown Audio SAE1200D v1 Fi audio 12 q with bp flex in a 2.5cu ft box tuned to 28hz wired at 1ohm Pioneer AHV-P3200BT Headunit Second Battery with H/O alternator 1/0 Gauge wire run including big 3 My sundown audio SAE 1200d worked fine for 3 months and then i took it out of the car because i wasnt going to be driving it for a month and let it sit in my room in the box under my bed. I just reinstalled my system in my car and now the amp doesnt work right. It powers on correctly and looks as if its working fine but it doesnt give ANY output. Sometimes when i start the car it will give output and work perfectly and can crank it and drive arou…

I just got my car back from my installer today and I must say these Sundown's run super hot. After maybe an hour of playing time I almost burned my hand touching the top of the amps. I have one SAX-100.2, one SAX-100.4, and one SAZ-1500D and all three of them were equally hot. Also the SAX-100.4 shut off at one point probably due to the heat while the other two amps continued to play. Does anyone else have this problem? I think my installer is going to have to install a fan to blow some air on these things but I'm not sure it's going to help as it'll just be cycling hot air. For an SQ install they sound good, I just hope heat doesn't spoil the fun for me.

My car is currently in the shop awaiting repairs from the recent break in. Since I have the time and I have not posted on this forum before, (I think) I was just wondering how you guys feel about these little guys. Should only need 6 cubic feet net ported, and have almost the cone surface are of (4) 15s Just considering something different for a good sounding daily that will drop low and get fairly loud. Power would be from a 3000d of course. Almost forgot car is a 2004 Ford Crown Vic seen here, old setup, just to give you an idea of how big the trunk was, that box was 4 cubic feet net tuned to 28hz I would have to do subs and port up, but I did that with my single RL…

THIS IS A 1 DAY BUILD 4 NITESHADE 15'S IN 13CUBES PORTED BOX WITH 202 SQUARE INCHES OF PORT TUNED TO 37HZ EACH SUB HAS ITS OWN SUNDOWN 1500D ALL HOOKED UP TO THE MAXXLINK SO HERES THE PICS..THEY DO MOST OF THE TALKING...LOL BUT WHEN IT GOT FIRED UP..OMG ITS FREAKING INSANE...THE LOWS R NUTZ THE OUTPUT IS SCARY...LOL IM VERY HAPPY AS WELL AS THE OWNER . ALL THIS GOING IN THE BACK OF A 2002 PATHFINDER HERES 1 OF THE SUBS UP CLOSE..MAN THIS THING IS SEXY IN PERSON HERES THE SHELL HERES THE MOCK FITS OF THE SUB WITHOUT THE PORT HERE THE BACK OF THE PATHFINDER HERES THE MOCK FIT OF THE BOX IN THE PATHFINDER SUBS R IN!!!!!11 EVEREYTHING STARTING TO GET WIRED UP …

just trying to figure out. whats going on here.

* 149.5 TL Score on the dash, legal * Free air testing after the build We build this sub for a low Fs for a special application to try it out... Fs was 31 Hz after very little break-in so I expect it to settle around 28 Hz or so, dead on with what our goal was. Still did quite well in the Jeep despite being optimized for another application!

Hello. I've got a ported 5.3 cu.ft box and 1.6k amp (my box is 1.1 cf ports and 4.2 cf for the sub) which sub would be better with my setup? the Z v3 15" or the 18" ? also I've got XS power D2400 battery. I cant get a bigger box, thats the maximum box size that I can have. is my mono will be enough for that sub? (can't change it, I'm out of budget) is that box is enough for the 18" ? if not, is it good for the 15" or is it too big? * car details: I have a Fiat Grande Punto (small car. hatchback) and my box is slanted front if it matters. Amp: Celestra FA1.6k Thanks, Udi.

Just got the new 1200d, setup with knukonceptz 4 gauge and my old 80 amp fuse from my alpine pdx 600 watt, and so far it sounds a lot more like 600 than 1200. Would I see a huge improvement if I upgraded to 1/0? The reason I ask is KnuKonceptz site says their 4 gauge handles 200 amps, and apparently the 1200 pulls only 150 amps. Either way, I'm definitely upgrading my fuse to 150 like it should be.

this weekend i built a 3cf enclosure with 2x 4" areoports 7" long ea and did a 151.7db lil Jeff showed up with a 12" Mtx and did a 141.8db then noticed the box was not sealing where the sub seats in the boxx enuff blablabla new Custom SD window decals. mine Jeffs jeff using 1 amp jeffs 12" my single 15" boxx 2x 4" areoports 1st place & Highist Spl for the show 151.7db

was installing a new to me sae 1200 from db-r when the worst thing happen the bit fell out and arched the speaker terminals.. everything shut off came back speakers made a weird hissing noise so i swapped it out seem to help the sub works for a little then cuts out