Sundown Audio

Can somebody help me with a box spec for my 2 SA-15. This is going into a Isuzu Rodeo. The widest the box can be is 41 inches. I want it for a daily driver and for competitions. I would appreciate the help.

I need help with a box spec for my 2 Sundown Audio SA-15s. Its going into a Izusu Rodeo. My goal is to hit over 150db. The box needs to be 6 to 8 cubic feet, port tuned to 35hz and max width is 41". I looking for a box that i can use as a daily driver and for competitions. I would appreciate the help.

Will 2 15" SA 15s have enough room as of specs in a ported box that is approximately 36" long, 18" deep and 24" tall? Just wondering because I would like to put two 15s in the cab of my 98 s10 extended cab.

i have a nightshade v1 15 dual 1 and a rd1750.1 that i will be running at .75 ohms i want deep clean low bass while listening to rap and rock please help me with box design specs

Hey guys, I am planning on installing 4 SA-8 in a chevy 72 truck using an incrim. audio 40.1 amp. i really need help on determining what would be the best box type and size to include port size. i am planning to use the whole space behind the seat and install the amps under the seat.....your help is very appreciated...also would like to know who can build me box for my project.. Thanks Mike

Specs where provided from an old friend whos been doing SPL and bandpasses for a long time, just wanted to see some other sundown people input, maybe sean will poke his head in here. The specs I was given was 5.7cuft 1:1 50sqin of port area 8" long. After the suggested BP design I "tried" to mock one up in sketch up. I probably got this all wrong but here is a picture of it with some area's left out to view the measurements. I shortened the port based on 1 shared wall, the way I got the length of the port of 5.25" is that I calculated the box like a standard ported box with torres calc at 50sqin 8" long, got the resulted tuning, then changed it to 1 shared wall, accountin…

Im just trying to find out if i'm uninformed or really missing a part. I received my brand new SAX-200.4D on Friday, May 20. Super excited, I pulled it from the box and upon giving the amp a good looking over, I found it was missing the black plastic switch for the High/Full/Low pass crossover for channels 1&2. Its been awhile since i was involved in car audio, but dont we still need these switches? I already tried talking to the authorized internet dealer, but i was told to talk to the manufacturer. So quick to take your money, but so useless when it comes to help. im just worried i threw a bunch of money out the door. any help would be appreciated.

First time posting here, but have been reading up on Sundown for the past few months and have like everything I've read so far. So a month ago I purchased two brand new SAZ-3000Ds and they are strapped together to make a 6000W monster. Well I was trying to do some no load gain settings like I have done in the past on other amplifiers. I have three Powermaster D3100 batteries with 1/0AWG cable between each as well as 1/0AWG cable for Pos and Neg to each amplifier. Also I have double runs of 8AWG between each amp as well. I set all controls for both amps to zero connected my sub out RCA from my HU to the master amp and the BR out to the BR in of the slave amp. I place…

So I just purchased a Sundown SA12D4 installed it and had about an hour worth of play before it decided to go out on me that same day. I have it hooked up to an Alpine MRX M110 rated at 1100 rms at 2ohm, wired with kunconceptz kolossus flex 4 gauge kit, Kinetik hc2000 for power source (battery is located in the back), and a ported enclosure 1.75 cubic feet tuned at 35hz. I had the gain a little less than half to break sub in first when it started to smell really bad then almost immediately it blewi think and now it sounds like crap. Ive had these subs before amd over powere them without any issues. Do you think its worth the hassle going through the warranty exchange...…

well my 3000d just arrived and i looked on the forums and i wanted to wire my RE XXX to a 1 ohm load. well i've never wired up a monoblock with 2 outputs. so should i wire each 2 ohm coil parallel to each output or run both pairs to the terminal cup then to the sub?

Playing in the shop One 4500D @ 1.33 ohm on one battery vehicle off. We stuck the mic in the port -- the score you see is 35 Hz. The SA-12s with the screws on them are NOT hooked up at all... the big box is moving them with pressure. It will have alot more power on it in vehicle... we expect good results !

Check them out... I think he wanted his doors to match his teeth... that is the word on the street.

Walled truck... wall will hold four 18s but only has two right now. Only using three 12v batteries at the moment so power is limited Video is processing as I post this... so click in a few minutes.

Jake, I'm looking at my new amps (Thanks BTW!), and I was thinking how sexy it would be to have some bridge pieces so that when installed they look like one HUGE amp. Would this be a possibility? Thanks! Ron

Just got my 100.4 and I am going to bridge it to run a set of components for now(active later).What is the proper hook up for the RCA's to the amp -the manual doesn't show this.Do I use channel 1 and channel 4 or some other combination. Thanks

In the manual, it shows it can be bridged to drive 2 subwoofers, but i want to just bridge it to power my Phoenix Gold RSD comps... If I bridge channels 1 & 2, 3 & 4, how would I connect my RCA's if I am only using the "front" outputs on my HU. Do I need a 1 female to 2 male splitter? to drive 1 & 3 left and 2 & 4 right? im a little confused at this point... thanks in advance for any help. Cody

I read the instructions in the FAQ's section but i'm still somewhat confused. If i have (2)saz1500s strapped together i will still be getting a (1ohm) load correct? I am going to be running (2)FI BL - dual 1 so will run into a problem strapping these two amps together for my setup? Should i look into purchasing dual 2's instead

Well guys I finally did it. I broke 150db. I got a 150.7db @ 36Hz in the passenger kick with a TL and drivers door open. USACI Modified 1001-2000W Vehicle: 2002 GMC Envoy Subs: (4) Phoenix Gold Ti12d Elite Box: 11 cu ft @ 28Hz behind "C" Pillar Amps: (2) Sundown SAZ-3000d stapped using a Maxxlink @ 2ohms HU: Pioneer DEH-P940MP

well guys i had all these plans for my mazda.. i finally figured the car out as far as getting it loud. and today i had a wreck. it had soo much force it broke the screws out of the metal holding the box down and shoved it through the trunk opening.

Hey guys today about 1/4 of my cone let go from the basket.... so how do you fix this? glue? if so what kind a glue should i buy? thanks Kenneth

I havent been on the forums for a long time.. too long.. haven thad time to compete in a while either but I have been using my 18'' nightshade and 2 saz1500s for my daily system untill the other day it just quit working.. I pushed in on the cone only to realize that it was completely locked up... odd but it happens... so i took the woofer out of the enclosure to find the top sulg on the motor had complete broken in half and was off center.. iv never seen this happen so i figured id share... its a sad day as i cannot afford a new motor in the near future...

4 Zv3 15's and 4 Saz3500's @.5

Well im tired of having no bass in about all of my rides. Know that its getting to were its snowing and blowing i would like to get something in the van to hold me over unit summer seeing my 5th and 6th DD 3518's are not in and im still getting around money to power them up. Seeing i got all this stuff laying around or can be used in the install come summer its not gonna cost me anything or take away from my budget (other then about 3 sheets of mdf). Car: 1997 Chevrolet Astro Head Unit: Pioneer Premier DEH-P590iB Comps: Kicker RS65.2 x2 Comps Amp: Sundown SAX-100.4 Subs: 10" Sundown Audio SD-1 x8 Subs Enclosure: T-Line Wall Behind 2nd Row @ 26hz Subs Amp: Sundown SAZ-150…

Well i have recently sold off everything out of my daily driver to fund a new build in a different car. I also am working on a budget install in my daily driver to replace everything that has been removed and sold off. Im looking for a pair of clean sounding 6.5" componets w/ some nice out put for under 200 bucks shipped. Power will be coming from a 100.2 passive until the 50.4 comes out then they will be active. Thanks Corey

Figured I'd post it up here, hoping that this one can make the "customer rides" section of the site.