Sundown Audio

This part is a spacer / shorting ring / heat-sink for the Z v.2 model. These are made right down the street from us here in Troutman, NC at a family owned machine shop. Great guys down there... they also did our aluminum Nightshade v.1 pole plugs. Just got these in... testing so far has not included them but they will be standard on production models. A few pictures : Should I powder coat them or leave them raw aluminum color ?

whats the cost of reconing a 15" ns to a 12" ns?

I ordered a 50.4 in hopes of bridging it to get the proper power I need out of my midbasses. After purchasing the amplifier, I looked at the wiring diagram for bridging and it only shows mono subwoofer. I wanted to run these at stereo for my midbasses xover actively from 60-1.2kHz. Is bridging out of the question?

Any updates yet? Can't decide to wait for a 10 or just get a 12. If the price diff is minimal, I'll probably end up getting a 12.

The guy in this thread basically had the same questions as I. I thought about bumping it, but it might suit me best to have my own thread. If I want my High Pass crossover point to be at 3.5khz @24db slope, then playing a tone at 3.5KHZ should be half the wattage of what frequency? Should I expect full wattage at 4khz?

Somewhere I saw a post or an article, I think by Jacob, that was telling about Sundown amps having issues with certian RCAs and working better with some... Can someone direct me to this article or info??? I did try the "Search" button, but got no love....

I am a member on some other forums, one of which likes to preach pure ESSQUE. One of the topics I have seen that rears its head is, at 1 ohm dcr loads the overall sound quality suffers. So if I understand correctly the distortion goes way up, woofer control is lost etc... So if a Sundown amp is run at 1 ohm dcr and is not driven to clipping but within its normal parameters of use, say 1/3 power has there been anything noticed within the SQ parameters as far as audible distortion, less woofer control? Or can I say that Sundown is designed for this specific use? I get PM's a lot being called a fanboy but the dang thing just works for me. As well as my son, brother and se…

What sizes of a box in centimeters, for one SA-12 with adjustment(option) of slot-hole port 31Гц? Will work with SAZ-1500 on 2Ом. Parameters: T/S D4 RE: 7.09 ohms Fs: 28.4 Hz Qes: 0.511 Qms: 5.75 Qts: 0.469 Vas: 40.3 L BL: 25.04 NA Le: 7.7 mH Mms: 252 g BL^2 / RE: 88 600 watts RMS And what case is better the closed box or FI on every day? Interests the best box for the given subwoofer ! Beforehand many thanks responded =)

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TEAM SUNDOWN FAMILY!!!!

I've been thinking of wiring my subs lower (see sig) to .25 ohms. Their dual 1s so it should be .25 correct, tried looking for a pic can't find. ( if you have one please post a link). My rise with the amp off is like 1.4 I believe, and close to 2 ohms when playing. Any ideas? Thanx

Sundown will be closed Thursday and Friday... seriously Going to visit family for the Holiday.

ill b sealin off my trunk on my next project. the new box will b 3.5 cubes @ 35 using 2 4" aeros, the rest of the equipment is n my sig. comments? dos or donts?

I had my sae1200 for quite some time. Then got an SAZ1500, planned on getting a dc lvl 4xl, but got a great price on a normal lvl 4, so I went with that and sold the SAZ1500 and started using my sae1200 again. I've been trying to set the gains with my dmm, But I've run into a problem. At first I thought it might be the headunit, but I switched headunits and the problem still persists. When I set my gains with the DMM and the subs not connected to the aim, I set it to 30v, which is down slightly from 1000/sqrt 1 All EQ's and bass boosts are set to 0. Headunit volume set to 23/35, sub volume set to 7/15 When I connect the sub, and play a 50 hz tone, I start the hu volume at…

Well i need some help choosing my next amp! here is my future application, 2-15inch NS v1 (already purchased) 2-saz2000(1 of 2 purchased) 1-ID horns 2-nsb 90's big 3 h/o alt (200amp) Now my question is either the 50.4 or the 125.2! I need some help deciding. both amps have pluses and i am leaning towards the 50.4. So here are the immediate plus i see: 50.4, future application due to the 4channels and resell able 50W x 4CH RMS 4 ohm stereo 80W x 4CH RMS 2 ohm stereo 160W x 2CH 4 ohm bridged 125.2 more power, less $20 lol 125 watts x2 @ 4 ohms 200 watts x2 @ 2 ohms 400 watts x1 @ 4 ohms bridged Now for the question which would you choose to power a pair of ID Horns…

Hey guys! Well, I finally built a box on my own. it is not pretty, but then pretty doesn't always add db's. It is 4.13 cubes before displacement and 3. something after displacement. I still have a lot to do inside the box, but it did quite well without any improvements done to it yet. In initial testing, I was able to do 149.19db and at the show I did 149.2. I could probably do better with fully charged batteries. Not too bad for a small box. I have some pics. Tell me what you think.

Hey, i would be glad to get some Suggestions from you Guys I wanna Build a Box for the 2 18s i gonna buy from Tye, they will be running off 2 3000Ds the Box should be good for Daily groundpounding but my goal is the 150. What kinda Airspace, Port Area and Port length would you guys suggest me? This is what my Trunk looks like (not my car) i got the dimensions from the back part of the trunk, but since fitting Port and Subs at the Top will be kind of hard (damn domes) i thought about doing something like a mini wall with subs and port behind the frontseats facing forward what you guys think?

Sundown Team, I am looking at the forum about this but I can't seem to find any article discussion the difference between the two good sub aside from its RMS. Thanks

what would cause fuses to blow on the amp? i dont know if the plastic casing on the fuses just expanded from poppin or the casing of the fuse was slightly melted. there are 3 30a fuses, i am using a 100a maxi fuse on the battery wire (4g). i was using 12g for the speaker wire, witch i now upgraded to 9g after installing the new fuses. the amp seemed to be fine when i checked it out after cutting out. is there a certain fuse you recommend for the amp or size? also, should i use the same size wire to wire the sub inside of the box as same as the speaker wire i got running from the amp? its probably about 12g inside. thanks

Sorry guys - backed up again. I am going to let everyone in on why that is : 1) My e-mail volume in 2009 *so far* is two times higher than what I got in 2008 all year long. 2) I have been in the process of buying a new home for several weeks now, this takes up alot of time. 3) As many of you know I have a son - he is now 8 months old - so I can't do much e-mail at home these days. 4) Flu season came through... I got sick after MECA finals, that took me out of work completely for a day and slowed me down for a few more. 5) We are busier than ever - and I do alot of other things besides e-mails. Lots of new things in development... uses up alot of my attention and time. All…

Jacob, I was wondering if you/Sundown ever considered making endcaps to go on the ends of their amps to cover all the wiring, knobs, inputs, etc... Also a space or cap two go between two amps to make it look like one continous amp would be sweet... So you would have Endcap|Amp|Endacp or Endcap|Amp|Spacercap|Amp|Endcap They look sweet the way they are, but I think this would really clean them up.... Thoughts?

i am interested in a 3 way component system. reason being, one 2 way component system wouldnt be enough for me. i think a 3 way system would be more broader, with a woofer, a vocal mid range driver and a tweeter. i was looking at focals. model 165 A3 from there "Access" line. im not that particular to where i need to hear them before i buy. im sure i would be satisfied. im use to listening to factorys so any component sysem would probably do me good. anybody have suggestions or experience with a 3 way system? and also is the rated rms power totaled between all speakers on each crossover?

im goin back and forth between the 2. i think it would be badass to see peoples reactions off the fact that its 8's hittin that hard, but at the same time im really lookin for hard hittin mid and especially low bass wich is what makes me lean towards the 15's. so yalls input would be greatly appreciated.

Updates : 1) Double sided PCB board (v.1 was single sided) 2) More primary input caps 3) Large brass bars for power supply current 4) Revised layout 5) Superior Soldering and assembly quality Same power as the existing 1200D but overall higher quality throughout based on what we learned from the v.1 model. Who would be interested in a pre-sale at, say, around $250 These amps are capable of 1500+ watts.

I was wondering if you think it would be better to get a 1000 or 1200 for a daily driver. I'm putting them on 2 15 BL's ... any idea's on this? the pro's cons to both?

Here is the link for the Flyer for the Nov. 14th Awards show for Comp. Only. This will also be a Iasca and DB drag Event! hope to see every one there!! http://www.teamolskool.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1433