Sundown Audio

Just wondering if anyone has any pics of the newer style saz1500's.....i think it was the heatsink that was a little different? I know the performance is identical, just want to see how close they are to the 1st ones. I have 2 of the original and am planning on ordering a couple more.

Well guys i decided since im making some money, which is pretty good for 16, im planning my electrical now so i'm prepared in a few weeks. Right now i currently have a sae-1000D and 100.4 bridged on a 3 way set of CDT HD's and a Fi Q. However, 2 weeks ago i purchased another Sae-1000D Proto #2 i believe since i got #1, and i plan on buying a 100.2 in a week or two to go active 3 way on the CDT's. However situation is that im not sure how my electrical will hold up. My electrical consists of this. 200 amp iraggi alt which is rated at 200 amps @ 1700 rpms and 120 @ idle (was told by Dom they conservatively rated and prob more like 215 - 130ish Big three with 1/0 Gauge KLM K…

So, I have a 2006 VW GTI that needs a system. Plans, so far, as follows: Dynavox 8" Midbass driver (~60 - ~250 Hz)* DLS Iridium IR3 midrange (~375 - ~3000 hz) DLS Iridium IR1 tweeter (~3000 Hz and up) * I may opt to use Morel HU9.1s or a VIFA 8s -- still brain storming here. Has to be shallow at no more than 3.5" depth so I'm a bit limited. Crossover points subject to adjustment. Slopes will likely be as follows: Dyanvox - 24 dB HP / 12 dB LP DLS IR3 - 36 dB HP / 12 dB LP DLS IR1 - 12 dB HP Subject to tuning. The factory passive in the IR3 set crosses the IR3 in the 300s with a lower slope... I think it'll play at 375 just fine with such a steep slope. I'll further wipe a…

i have an older box that was given to me by a friend who works at a shop.... he said that he really didnt know what it was tuned to but the 11.5 long and the only thing he remembers ( which was written on a sticky from the guy who built it) that the box had 26.43 cu. inches of area, 1.48 cubes .... so some ruff calculations on my part which i suck at i am still unsure on what this box is tuned to.??? JUST A TEMP BOX UNTIL PETE AND I GO OVER THE NEW BUILD WITH 15 NSs... i spoke with him last week and was think going with a horn design.... could get interesting.

I'll throw up a few pics tomorrow. We still have it in the ghetto test box, but it actually sounds quite good... two 1500s strapped @ 2 ohms are powering it, I have my primary battery, factory alternator, and two Powermaster D3100s backing them up. Metered 144.1 dB @ 52 Hz in the test box - which is really terrible on the meter - same box in the YouTube videos of the monster. I'd like to get it into a smaller box and strap the 1500s down really low and see what she'll do - then strap some 3000s on it What surprised me the most is how good it sounds - obviously its not an SQ woofer but, it sounds quite good. Certainly does not sound like an extreme fart-cannon sub by any …

http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/protos/18...ken_playing.MOV Playing on the SAE-1200D prototype free air - full blast on the amp On the second track where it starts low and then gets quiet as it plays higher, its just running well into the crossover on the 1200D - sub still in working order minus the part of the basket and surround the UPS broke off!

Just for reference... please e-mail me. The delay on responding to PMs is annoying when I have 10 to answer so I am going to quit answering them once my box fills up again - please e-mail me.

I wanted to know how to strap together 2 of the amps? Do you have to run power, ground and remote to both or just master?

very sad day today... so im rerunning some wires in the car, and i open the trunk and see this..... so what happen was my oem radio i had laying in the back, somehow slid itself perfectly between the box and the trunk wall. everytime the sub moved, the metal edges on the radio cut deeper and deeper. so jake i will be in contact, to get a recone! 15" D2

1 Saz-3000D 2 Nightshades 15 D1 Wired for 1ohm All 8 gauge with a + and - Bolt in the box From 1+ terminal on amp to + bolt From 1- terminal on amp to - bolt 1+ wire from inside bolt to + on left sub another + wire from inside bolt to + on right sub 1- wire from inside bold to - on left sub another - wire from inside bolt to - on right sub Left sub: + to - right sub: + to - It looks just like the diagram but I'm a little OCD and feel the need to triple check everything

Hey guys. Can you please double check my wiring. I

Ok so I got everything hooked up last night ( 2 3000Ds on 2 Nightshade 18”s) and it

check it out, i know sum of you know what i have but lemme get it out of the way. 3 yellow tops, 200 amp alt 1 run of 0 gauge front to back 2 2/0 ground saz 3000d 2 bl 15's 3 250 amp circut breakers..... when i let it wang..... for maybe 10 mins on a constant bass song say i donno somthing young jezzy my circuit breaker between my amp and cell pack pops...,,, my voltage is 13-13.5 this is how my cable goes...... cells.... 15 inches of 0 gauge... circut...3 feet of 0 gauge... amp. jacob.. should i change some chit around? or step up to a 300 amps breaker........ ps NONE of the others are tripping

Currently waiting on customer to pick out some vinyl so I can finish the truck box, but in the mean time I decided to get started on my next box for the kia. The quad SA8s were decent in the kia, I dotn like the layout and the way it goes in the trunk however, So Im making a new box. Infact Im going to add the 2 refurbs Ive got on the way to the mix to do 6 sa8s in the kia. So my question, how much port area should i use for 6 of these, Im going to tune to 34hz approx, maybe a few less, and Im gonna build the box at 3 cubes. probably gonna get going on it tonight as long as I can figure out the port area. Some calculators Ive tried put the port area much higher than I fi…

will b building a new box soon, & tryin to figure out how much port area you'll recommend 4 a 15" ns in a 3.5 cube box? I have it n a 4.8 cube box now, & it sounds good. using 3 4" aeros @ 32 hz. not sure if I want to use the aeros or a slot 4 the new built, would like to use the 3 4"s but ill b to long 4 my box. so I'm thinkin maybe only usin 2 4". what u think?

Looking for box size for 2 18 zv3 I want 4.5 net each but what size aero ports? And how many?

I wanted some bass in my truck and decided I was going to do a small setup for daily use. So I ordered a SubThump box, didn't want to deal with the angle of under the seat. That box will be filled with a Mach 5 Audio IXL 10". After ordering that I decided to see about possibly doing a ported setup for the hell of it. Basically means I lose a seat in my truck when running this setup. So I decided to have RAM_Design design a ported enclosure for the SA-12 I ordered. We decided on 1.85ft^3 tuned to 32Hz. The design and cutsheet from RAM made it extremely easy for us to build the box quickly without measuring 50 times to be certain. This is the first ported box I have…

lol okay now that i got your attention i will make my lil review haha. so...my first reaction when i saw this amp internally was "this must be a POS it looks like a damn power acoustik or some thing like that internally" but that amp reaaaally proved me wrong. i used that amp @ .35 (strictly for spl) and it is one tough mofo i did a bit over 15 burps on drained batteries...my voltage drop was from 14.1 to 13.0 with one optima g31 and 1 crappy batt up front on my blazer. i got a 146.2dbs with 1 DD 9515. the amp never got hot during the burps, it didnt blow the fuses, go to protect or even burn...i used it at a comp yesterday and i did a 146.1 and got 1st place with it. so …

Based on the amount of support required for people who have failed to do their research and install amps properly I may be pulling 0.5 ohm warranty coverage from future "Z" series Class-D amplifier sales. Plenty of information is posted on the forum but I continually get support questions about sub-1 ohm operation. It turns out that 90% of the time it is a gain knob set too high, insufficient voltage, or a load that is incredibly low beyond 0.5 ohms due to wiring errors. Have there been any failures? Not any more than I would expect from just factory defects and user error. I've had one come back that was actually toasted beyond recognition... but that user had an issue i…

These are from Derrick's Explorer : Starting battery + 2x Powermaster D3100s used for testing 3980 @ 0.25 rising to 0.65 @ 11.2v (engine on) 2050 @ 1 rising to 2.44 @ 12.2v (engine off) ----- These are from Ray Farmer: Okay, I have done my SAZ3500D 12volt power test. I would like to say, WOW!! My nominal ohm load was 0.5 ohms. I did plenty of test but I got the amp to do its power at the proper settings and did 3 test and took the average. I used 2 x NSB-g3100 to power the amp, Starting voltage 13.2 Test 1 75.1 volts 39.9 amps 2996.5 box rise 1.88 voltage drop 12.2 Test 2 75.1 volts 37.7 amps 2827.5 watts box rise 1.99 voltage drop 12.1 Test 3 76.0 volts 39.5 amps 3002.0 …

To start off, i have 3 sa 12's, they were on a saz 2k, and i had them in a 5.5 cube box 2 6" aeros, tuned to 35hz, Well that wasn't cutting it for me for the low's, So i had to go back to slot ports, i made a box to recommended size, 5.25 cubes for 3 sa 12's, tuned to 31 hz with 81.25 port area. It sounded great, i loved it, But thought the subs needed more power, so i got my saz 3500 back. Put it in, and the sound changed a lot. It is louder, but doesn't sound as clean now and not as aggressive on some songs it did with the saz 2k. It almost sounds like it lost its "clean, accurate" sound, if that makes any sense. What would cause that? the box being to big now becuase i…

i want to run (once the saz 3500) a 3500. i was wondering what electrical i would need to do. obviously the big 3 but what kinda alternator and batteries would i need? (also will have a saz100.4 for the doors)

Okay since I'm so close to putting my new system together for the 2011 MWSPL season I have this question. My electrical will consist of a 180 amp DC Power Alternator, a CarQuest NGT Extreme 100 Ah AGM battery under the hood and a Deka 9A31 in the trunk, will this be enough to power a SAZ-3500D? I've heard yes and no. Of course I know to watch my voltage but I've had a few people tell me to get at least 2 batts for the trunk (if I had the space) it's going in the back of a 01 Camry.

I was wonder have any testing been done on the SAX 100.2 and SAX 100.4. I about to become a dealer and I'm really in to great multi channel amps and I'm building a SQ comp car now and using DLS ultimate amps. I would just like to now want the real world output of these amps are, seeing how much headroom is built into the sub amps. Thanks for all the help in advance.

I did a quick test today on one SAZ1500D.. i used a clamp on meter to measure current in the speaker wires and a digital multimeter to measure voltage.. i'm not sure if i measured this correctly, but i recorded the peak values seen and not the average.. I played a 48Hz test tone during testing and used a pair of dual 4ohm Audiopipe TXX series subs.. Re per coil - 3.6ohms 1st try.. (volume up high, but not maximum..) Voltage - 57.5V Current - 23.7A Power - 1363W Impedance rise 0.9DCR - 2.43ohms Voltage at the amp dropped from 14.4V - 12.1V I tried it again at a lower volume and got this.. Voltage - 38.0V Current - 15.7A Power - 596.6W Impedance rise 0.9DCR - 2.42ohms (I c…