Build Logs

Ok, I'm starting my new build pretty soon, probably when the next cold front comes through. But since I took everything out to measure, I needed some low end filler while I'm getting ready to start building, and until im finished...Best temp system ever. lol Tried facing them back in the back, but they kept sliding off of the little ledge and scaring the shit outa me when I would brake. What a mess. This whole setup aside form the box will be going in my gf's car around when I start my build. We're gonna use the leftover wood from my build to build a 4th order for her. She just wants a little bass till we can get some more money for some better equipment for her. It …

BHE is shipping enclosures as well as getting locals louder than ever Here are some pics

I am very happy with how this build came out, I have a ton of pics on the comp at home, and I will get them posted here soon,. I'd like to thank NT_Hardcore, Focalrock4life and my wife Kasey for all the time that went into the project. NT really did a nice job with the wiring, there are a couple things in the back that need to be tied up, and they will be when we can get the car back in a few days.

Here is a few pics now that im done. Finally got this damn cam. The alt bracket had to be bent out of the way but it worked. The grounds on the frame are welded on bolts cause I thouht it would be easier. This alt is a BEAST! Thank you Mechman! My power is incredible right now! I hope the regulator isnt set too high. I never touched the adjustment screw and installed it how it was. I thought it came set for you between 14.4-14.9. Is that right? My gauge never gets to 14. It was always over 14 at start up before, but now its just a litle more. Before at 3/4 volume I could get the batt LED light to come on within 5-7 seconds of play. Now...now is a different story.

The Pioneer AVH-P4200 installed: Positive and Negative upgrades on the battery: The positive upgrade from alternator: Close up of the new positive terminal: Close up of the new negative terminal: The Second Skin Damplifier Pro. I bought way too much: The SSA Icon 12"!: Tools used to remove panels to add the sound damplifier (the mallet was to break a pin holding the airbag panel on the c-pillar): The sound damplifier added on. It was a pain in the ass because of all of the holes for the rear deck clips and stuff. I had to cut small pieces and put them all over and started to get lazy with it and missed some spots because of it. I was so worn out from spending so m…

Here is the low on my setup. I have a 2001 Chevy blazer 4x4 Headunit-CDA-105 Electrical- DB Electrical 220 amp alt, 2 C&D 100ah batts 4channel- Audiopipe 2004 Front stage- CDT Com 626 and CDT 6.5 Coaxails Sub amp- Audiopipe 3k Subs- 4 RD audio Sonance v2 12s dual 4 TSUNAMI 1/0 LOTS OF FATMAT EXTREME Here we go ill start off fast the box will be being rebuilt unless I find a good deal on a couple 15s. My car Stock alt with TSUNAMI 1/0 DB Electrical 220amp alt C&D batteries Headunit Now for some fatmat HIghs amp CDT Crossover and Tweet in B pillars CDT Mid Sub amp and subs Im deading the rest of the doors and finishing my comps today ill post more pic…

Ok, so this guy from Calgary ordered up some subs a little over a year ago for his home theatre setup. A little over a month ago, he phones me again telling me they aren't enough. We start sharing info and I find out he was the Canadian car audio champion back in the early 90's. So after a 17+ year hiatus, it just so happens that Big Dave is planning to get back into the car audio scene once again. He calls himself 'Big Dave' for just reason - he's bigger than me and has that deep, husky voice you can only associate with men of larger stature. Eight IXL-12's, four MLI-65's and a 2000 Ford F250 bought primarily for car audio, this should be a very interesting build. He…

Here are some final pictures for a build I did for a customer. Box is 8.4 cubes @ 35hz for 2 HDC3 15's. Box is not being covered with anything. customer will do what he pleases. Gonna be fun to ship... Enjoy

I figure I will just dump everything here. Prior setup (Sub stage taken out, keeping front stage) -Alpine Type-R 12" -Kenwood KAC 9104D (Rated for 900w RMS but we know it only puts out 600w) -2.25 cu ft enclosure tuned to 32hz -Kicker 4 gauge wire -Alpine 4 channel amp (45x4) -Pioneer 5x7's (Only running front 2) -Pioneer DEH-X8500 New Setup -Stereo Integrity HT 18" -4th Order designed by Hunter Martin -Pioneer GM-D9601 (@2ohm doing 800w) -Audio Technix 0 gauge kit -Audio Technix Big 3 kit -PAC LC-1 -Other little things for wiring Before And everything yanked out Things that are going in All going in I will update this as the build comes al…

well i thought i would start a build log since im about to start my first set up that should get kinda loud. i have a 1997 honda accord v6 that already has a kenwood kdc-mp242 and some alpine sps-600 speakers in the front doors running off the HU power. i will be running my subs off my alpine mrp-m500 for right now til i sell it and buy a new amp in late february. equipment going in my car: 2 skar vvx-12 1 aq1200 1 set of 6.5's (undecided) and putting the alpines in the back 1 2 channel amp (undecided) heres some pics of the subs if you have not seen them yet i will start building the box tomorrow since i have to clean this out first :facepalm:

Sorry for the semi-blurry pics, it was foggy as a mofo outside.

More like big two cause I didnt ground the alt to the chassis. There wasnt any dedicated ground post on the stock alt so I thought I would put it in later. Thought the other two were the most important anyway. Maybe when I get a new alt for her, I'll do the third. That will be expensive though! Should have done this a long time ago but I was off work due to the weather today. What better time to do it then now? Had to get some new battery post terminals as they wouldnt work with my 1/0 terminals. Put the black loom on there to make it look nice too. It was lying around so why not? Right off the batt I could tell the difference. The lights dont dim anymore and it even seem…

I started this today before I tried to change my window motor assembly and realized it was a dud. Crap. Try that again next week I guess. First time ever applying sound deadener and I should have ordered the wheel with the damplifier lite. Will be buying it soon with more damplifier for my geo as it was a bitch by hand. Took a little while but got part of the inside panel done. It will be a slow project and the other door will be done with the other window motor. Not broken but getting slower these days. Will update periodically. http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/bigrank916/MLI-65%20project/

I got around to installing this little guy today and Im stoked. I used a 12 volt relay as that is what I have seen recommended. The install took a little longer than I wanted but overall it was pretty easy. The blue matches my truck and the illumination isnt too bright. I ran the power wire to the amp terminals to get a more accurate reading. The voltmeter is sitting in the old factory stereo location where it was swapped out for a cd pocket that the cds always fall out of. Piece of shit! It fits perfect and i like it recessed so its not blaring the light all over the cab too much. Very pleased with it though and want another for my Geo.

This is my third time posting this, so you may have already seen it. But I also want more feedback. It isn't a large build by any means, but its my first, and I'm completely satisfied. It isn't as loud as most of my friends (most have L7s, one has a MTX 9515, and another has a couple 15 inch MOJOs), but NONE of them can hit as low as loud as me. 12" DC Level 4 1.65 cubes tuned to 28 DD M1a 4ga. Stinger HPM wire I'll start off with what I posted a couple weeks ago, and follow up with how it stands now (or stood up until about 6 this afternoon). The car: CD3200 (sticking out about a cm. Damn shallow dash): Hidden knob: Look Ma! No Wires! 1.65 cubes tuned to 28 (prob…

As I type this, I have yet to figure out how to get the pics of the build so far off the camera and cell phone and onto here, so any knowledgeable folks are welcome to jump in and help me out... Right now the box is together and the inside is painted, and I will be painting the outside with some textured stuff soon, or I'll just carpet it... Hopefully I get these pics on soon.

Got around to building the box today for my BL15. Anywho on with the good stuff... Overall I'm really impressed with this thing. I like it alot. I will carpet it later I just wanted to get it in and start breaking it in. It wangs . --edit-- The 6" Aero is in the box as well. It's not sealed

I am currently working on making a box for my 12" BL. Pictures look kinda crapy, used a cell phone. Just have pics of the L Port, the new sub and new amp that is going to be going into my 2001 Jetta. 12" BL US Amps MD1D My L Port with some routered edges Primed the L port and other pieces of the box And for the front of the box I am going to put some stained cherry veneer

Headunit: Alpine 9887 Front speakers: 8pcs. Ciare CM161 midrange and 4pcs. Ciare CT267 tweeter Subwoofer: 2 FI BTL 15 Amp: 2 SAZ 3000d 3 SAX 100.4 Battery: Front: XS 3400D Back: XS 3100D Wiring: Stinger

Alrighty finally started a new build on the 2000 Blazer. Box is 12.5 cu ft. @33hz with 150 sq inches of port area. And now with the design And the start of cutting.. wood is MDF with oak veneer, very good looking stuff Yes, I AM building this all inside of a house haha Can you believe those holes are done with a jigsaw?? FTW. Port Thats all I got for now, will post more pictures later tonight when I get the other stuff glued together..

Do you have a blazer or s10 pick-up? Post your pics! Here are some of mine. Any questions go ahead and ask.

This is the first time I have actually built anything but test boxes for my subs. I have had 9 other cars and I never have them long enough to put a real system in them. This current build will be for my 2006 Mitsubishi Endeaver. So far I have a Stinger SPP2150 up front with my stock alternator, I have already done the Big 3. I am using the stock headunit, Epiccenter Plus, Kenwood Excelon amp (at most it puts out 100x4 into 4 ohms), Hertz Hi Energy components in the front doors (soon to be relocated to kick panels), Alpine Type R 6.5's in the rear doors, a Hifonics Brutus 1700.1d, and 2 12 inch IA Lethal Injections. I am selling an old pair of Alpine Type R 12s and the Br…

Well I want my back seat again so Im doing a blow through. I have a bagged 95 ext cab chevy. My sub is an 18" BTL and my amp is a Kicker KX2500.1. I have dual optimas and 0 gauge wire. Batteries and amp will be hidden under the rear seat. Heres what im starting with Box Design(I put the sub on the other side How the front will look The truck Now I wanted to sound deaden it really bad (RaaMat) since everything is torn out, but it wasnt in the funds($400 for the kit)..I have some stuff that I will throw on the back wall to reienforce it and next spring Ill get it done. Night 1(Tuesday). Tore the entire thing apart, didnt break a single clip, pretty proud of that. Th…

What do yall think about this?? will be going in my single cab 95 dodge ram here are the particulars.... bottom 77 x 49 bottom 77 x 49 top 77 x 49 top 77 x 49 baffle 74 x 46 baffle 74 x 46 front 46 x 5 front 46 x 5 side 77 x 16 side 77 x 16 side 77 x 16 side 77 x 16 Port internal sides (4) 3 x 9.5 port external top 44.5 x 3 port external bottom 44.5 x 6 port external sides (2) 3 x 9.5 we are looking at 10 sealed and 17.75 ported get dowels for bracing... 46x10 for the cutout to cab 10-11 feet of wood dowels for bracing... i mean the dowels are 12 inches apart fiberglass resin first then cover in bedliner... also resin the corners and dowels on…