Advanced Discussion

Brad and Sean, I imagine you guys will be the most help here but I'm looking for anyone's input with insight here. I have noticed a bit of an acoustic phenomenon in both my vehicles that I'm sure exists in others but I'd love to figure out how to adapt or harness it to be put to real use. I'm also looking for the exact reason the acoustics work this way. In my Jimmy, for example, I have the doors deadened with CLD and CCF (MLV is in the works) and the Bravox components are mounted in good heavy MDF baffles. They sound great with good strong midbass and can even extend fairly low for their small size and low HU power. My only complaint is that they're a bit "forward" o…

Hey guys, I am having the following issue with my amp: The protection light comes on as soon as it powers up and it stays on. If I leave the amp on for a minute or so I can feel it getting really hot on the corner where the fuses are located on the bottom. The side of the amp is where it is getting hot and it looks like maybe a transistor over there (you can see if by looking in past the fuses). I have a Kicker amp that works just fine using the same power, ground, and remote wires. Memphis quoted $175 to fix it. I think it could be an easy fix if its just a bad transistor. I know how to solder and I've taken an amp out of its heatsink before to work on it but ended u…

Hi everyone, I have a dual 2ohm that is 1200 wrms and 2000 peak. Can I run a 800wrms amp or more on each vc? the sub is PG titanium elite (proven power hogs). How common of a practice is this? The reason I ask is because it seems like that application would use the woofer to the fullness of its potential. Later everyone

I remember reading about this somewhere, but I can no longer find the information. I'm wondering if any of the EEs we have can give me some insight as to the benefits other than cost and how to implement them into my system. This will mainly be used for control of alarm accessory channels. Thanks!

I am looking to use my laptop in cars to do RTA measurements and perhaps FFT later on as i play around with things. From what i have been reading the phantom power is required for many of these XLR connections. I have seen some battery operated flat response mics but the price jumps quite a bit. i am intending to buy the trueRTA application and perhaps the LEAP software or some derivative there of. I am looking for some guidance on what microphone and accompaning hardware is needed to accomplish this. am i able to use my onboard sound card or should i buy a USB card with higher performance. anyone ever used a PC for this type of work and have a…

Hello, I am new to this forum and was hoping some of you guys could help me out. Do most company's build their motors to accommodate certain VC configurations, or is FI the only ones who do that? I plan on buying a 3HP or possibly a TC9 motor or woofer in the near future and wanted to know if it was a SVC 4 ohm sub, could I fit a DVC 4ohm coil in there? If someone can give me a heads up of what company's do or don't do this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced.

Welp guys.... The install im doing i would like to incorporate the sub between the amps [amp][amp] If I make the enclosure 14x14x14 i have the perfect amount of space. Just enough for the sub and just enough to fit between both amps. The box will be polyfilled, but should I do the 14x14x14 cube ? Its not like the kid needs as much SPL as he can get, just something with a lil umph.

I thought I’d share this here. The writer goes through great length to explain the why’s and how’s of time alignment in a stereo system. He explains comb filtering, phase issues and alignment, crossover settings and so forth. Plus he does it in a manner that pretty much anyone with just a little bit of background or experience on the subject can understand. http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-one/ http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-2/ http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-three-delays-and-crossovers-for-tweeters-and-mids/ http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tec…

What kind of tones do you guys use ? 0dB, -3dB, -6dB ? I've used the 0dB tones a few times. Worked ok with the gain setting for my mids but when I used it for the subs in 2 installs I had to turn up the gain (after setting it) just to blend the sub in with the front stage. I read everything here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=4256 but except Jmac's post I don't think I could draw a conclusion for myself. By ear is good enough for my car ( I just need the sub to blend in) but when it comes to getting the full output on music, 0dB tones haven't worked

Here is a test we did a few years back... Always surprises people... http://forum.carstereos.org/clipping-test-...41.html?t=47441 -Mike

Well here are my two new babys i cant wait to get my alternator and battery to get this things up and running also my amp. I am having trouble with the box though i have been told my box is too big or my port is too small and ned help getting it done correctly. here are some plans i had with the box and the subs and some pics of the beasts. If anyone can give me some ideas for the box i would really appreciate it.

Our team is looking to purchase a clamp meter/dmm setup for competition this year, some guys are running 1000rms, others will be above 7500rms. So I've been looking at the fluke 376 clamp meter. But when I get to looking at DMM/s, I'm lost as to what we really need. I'd really like to get some and seriously need help. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd be very appreciative. Basic goals are to find out exactly what our box rise is, and how much power we are actually drawing so we can fuse properly. I'm looking at a clamp meter that will read up to 1000A so we have some overhead. Also looked at the iFlex cable for the Fluke, would that be worth while? Thanks…

JL HD 600/4 - Channel 1 does NOT work!! i had all the connections checked and everything, but it's defective somehow. i got it to play after switching back the slope switch a couple of times, and then it would play for a little bit. then there would be some cackling, then the signal would just completely die in Channel 1. i can get it to play for a few minutes if i play with the switches on the amp, but that's about it. has anyone ever heard of this? i had my entire stereo installed by a JL dealer near me

Alright, I've been trying to figure this out since I finished the new install. The Q's and Sundown amps sound amazing, they really do. I've never had anything that sounds like they do, so deep, so accurate and SO forceful, they're really quite amazing. However, I noticed a strange phenomenon right after installation that I kind of chocked up to the fact they were still very tight. After several months of playing it got worse instead of better, and at the car show last November I discovered something interesting about the phenomenon and have been studying and working on the how and why of it since. Problem is, I can't find any good information on it. So at this point…

I'm am totally lost. All I know is that houses run 8 ohms and cars run from .5 to 4 ohms. what is the difference between running a sub at say 300 x 1 at 2 ohms and 200 x 1 at 4 ohms? What are ohms exactly?

I'm thinking of purchasing a cheap broken amplifier off ebay just to try to learn to repair it. I'm a fairly fast learner and am good at learning new things, so it seems like it might be a fun challenge... What's exactly involved? I know I would need a test power supply (computer psu?), dmm, soldering kit... Is the basic technique to just look for components that are burnt or have failed and replace them?

Well I am having questions about the big 3 upgrade and running into some problems. I will soon be running Two Level 3 DC 10s in my truck on a DC 2k or a crescendo 2k. Okay where to start Here is the list of things i am going to get for the upgrade if you guys know of any better things or better prices please let me know. http://www.amazon.co...=A3J1PF183V710G http://www.amazon.co...4163658&sr=1-16 http://www.amazon.co...4163658&sr=1-16 http://www.amazon.co...cp_ob_e_title_2 And i am missing a few items i will have pictures of them if you guys could tell me where to get them and the size. first off here is a picture i have a question with Can i attach the termina…

Hey all, I've built plenty of enclosures and done 1 wall that I was able to build outside and slide in through the hatch but my next build I need to go as large as possible so build inside, and thats quite a change from slapping screws in, flip the box, drop more in. Can I get some links to build logs that have good pics of this please... I have been searching and found almost none that really help. Thanks! Krypto

Howdy all. I've got a little time on my hands and have a couple of widgets at my disposal. I'm running Stevens Audio Full Body horns in my ride and have a few compression drivers to try out. The compression drivers I've collected so far are the Stevens Audio Pro Drive, Dayton Audio D250P-8, and the DIY Sound Group DNA-360. I've head them here and there, but not long enough to decide which are the best for me. I've got one of those Dayton Audio DATS thingies, so I decided to test out my compression drivers and see what the impedance curve looks like with and without the horn body. I figure I'd share them and spur some discussion on how important the impedance curve is rega…

Got my hands on a FLUKE TiR thermal imager for the day so I figured I do a little testing on the heating and cooling of my subs/amps. So Playing my system full blast for about 4 1/2 minutes (usher-daddys home off decaf's zip 14) The main frequencies peak at 39hz, 38hz, and 26hz. Subs just starting to get stinky(clipping a tad to see how hot I can get them) Subs are in a 17C.F C-pillar wall after displacement, tuned to roughly 28hz. Subs are (2)18" AA Mayhem D1, amps are (2)Colossus XXV clamped at 2,800 RMS each. First image was taken within seconds after turning down the volume to 0. Shows the center(dustcap area) of the sub being roughly 132 degrees, and just next to…

If i build my wall do i have to deadedn the whole car, or can i just deaden the doors and half the cabin and spray the back half with sealer or specdrum

I've grown concerned about something that I see all over the audio forums: People stating that tuning a ported enclosure has nothing to do with the woofer. Couple of quetions / points to discuss: How many here believe this? For those that do, why? By that, I mean, because someone else told you so or because you've done some reading somewhere? If so, where... Wouldn't it make sense that the woofer acts upon the port by nature? Considering displacement, excusrion, fs, & emf properties... I'm under the impression that a woofer will interact with the port design, not act independantly. For reasonable / average installations this isn't a big concern I suppose... as the mec…

Ok so i have two motors that need reconed,i had Rusty(DC) do one for me and the coil rubbed. How do i get the measurements i need for the right coil? I do not have either coil that originally were in either sub,i do have a set of digital calipers. So what do i measure to get the correct coil? Thanks.

hey i have a problem that i cannot figure out my btl will run loud like it should but sometimes in mid beat it's like some one turned the dimmer switch down half way ?? i checked my preouts they range from .5 to 4.6 when bumping hard but as var as voltage being put out to the sub at full tilt it's only registering 20-26 at the most i an running a btl 12" duel 2 ohm wired to 1 ohm on a saz 2000d now should the volts match to somewheres around 44v at full tilt or i'm i doing somthing wrong while mesuring the volts for the out put i put the positive on the red and negative on the black for the speaker outputs right? could i be a loose conection in the box causing one voice…

To raise it from 1ohm to 2ohm final load?