Advanced Discussion

I had some kick panels made for my car a few months ago to house my 8" midbass. I had some issues fitting them into the door so I went this route. Even with only a 3/4" spacer, the door panel would not fit back on. Anyhow, the kicks look great, but I think are a bit too small, causing a peak in certain frequency bands. This problem is most noticable with male vocals. I tried filling the kick panels with polyfill...it helped a bit...but did not totally fix the problem. Other than that the system sounds awesome. Staging is fairly high and centered in the driver seat. So I'm opted to try once again to put the midbass back into the doors, and the 3" dome midranges back into …

What are the advantages of lowering the temperature in the cabin to gain higher dbs. example: refrigerating the cabin to say 50f before taking a spl reading VIA portable refrigeration unit powered by a generator.

My box is 36w x 19 d x 15.5h Port is 5.5x14 and 13.75" long I burp at 49hz, which I have found is the loudest in testing. Initially, I had the subs wired to 1 ohm, and the total rise came to about 3 ohms. I then strapped the amps, and wired the subs together, to get a load of .25 to each amp. I went up about a db and a half from doing this. I want to get my rise lower, but have no idea where to start. If you guys have any ideas to help me, any would be appreciated.

I am looking to use my laptop in cars to do RTA measurements and perhaps FFT later on as i play around with things. From what i have been reading the phantom power is required for many of these XLR connections. I have seen some battery operated flat response mics but the price jumps quite a bit. i am intending to buy the trueRTA application and perhaps the LEAP software or some derivative there of. I am looking for some guidance on what microphone and accompaning hardware is needed to accomplish this. am i able to use my onboard sound card or should i buy a USB card with higher performance. anyone ever used a PC for this type of work and have a…

Just looking around and thought this video might be interesting to some.. http://blog.edesignaudio.com/?p=244

I need to know exactly what mechanical failure is to a sub woofer. I know this is a rookie question, but I need some technica answers as I think it's the reason for my sub's death. Or can a sub even break due to this. I am 110% sure it wasn't because of thermal failure. The voice coils look brand new when I took it apart. Yes I took it apart and ordered a recone before asking. I know part of it was due to playing freq. lower than box tuning and using bass boost. What part of the sub breaks or what does the coil look like when it dies mechanicaly + 1,000,000 other questions I have but i'll start w/these. Thank's.

I am going to be moving from my current 2 way passive system(JL ZR650s) to a 3 way active system. I originally planned to go full Beyma mids and highs, but ever since my ZR woofers broke in, I have fallen in love with their sound and I have decided to keep them as my mid range and add the ZR800s as my mid bass drivers; I also will be using the Beyma AST09 3 inch super tweeter. I have a 08 Tahoe. My current setup has the woofer in the stock location and the tweeter in the stock A pillar location. I plan to build an enclosure in my center console for my 8's(one firing to both the driver and passenger side/not in between the seats) and glass my doors to fit the tweeter, but…

Both 12V batteries. but is mixing them going to cause a conflict at all?

So, I figured this should be in the Advanced topic section because unless i'm the first with XS Wireless batteries, something abnormal is happening here. I've been testing and noticing some odd readings last night but i'll leave that aside for now... The new reading i got today was just flat out impossible- I have 1 12v battery sitting here. IT HAS NOTHING connected to it's positive terminal! Nothing is touching it, ran to it, etc. The ground terminal is paralleled with 11 other batteries. I set meter to Ohms. Probe the Positive terminal to the battery that has nothing on it. The other probe is ran to the Positive terminal to the next closest battery that is paralleled…

Well here are my two new babys i cant wait to get my alternator and battery to get this things up and running also my amp. I am having trouble with the box though i have been told my box is too big or my port is too small and ned help getting it done correctly. here are some plans i had with the box and the subs and some pics of the beasts. If anyone can give me some ideas for the box i would really appreciate it.

Hi guys, my sub amp (Soundstream 2000 monobock) is acting weird. You will hear the subs pop out and then the amp goes into protect. Any time of day, any volume level, music/no music. It's totally random. Just wondering if any of you would have any ideas. I have 165A alternator (stock), 1/0Ga wire to amp. The batt meter on the car stays at 14 volts. The gain on the amp is all the way down. No bass boost. It also seems random when the amp resets itself so I can begin to use it again. Let me know if you need any more info. I'm also wondering if my subs could be the problem. They are dual 3 ohm wired in series to 6 ohm per speaker input (there are 2 on amp). The speakers wire…

I need some help with the best way to hook up my subs. Right now I have one of my Punch P2D210 sub hooked to the B side and the + to the + and - to - like the manual said to do. Would I be better hooking the Sub1+ to the A+ and Sub1- to the B- ? With two subs Punch (P2D210 x 2) am I better off hooking Sub1 + to A+ and Sub1 - to A- / Sub2 + to B+ and Sub2 - to B- OR Amp A+ to Sub1 + / Sub1 - to Sub2 + / Sub2 - to Amp B- ? OR if none of these are are the best way then just let me know the best way. Thanks for the help. Picture of current single sub ( + and - are on B posts)

Not sure which Batts to do for my setup. planned on replacing the stock Batt. and then adding a second one in the rear. - Amps, Crescendo symphony 1500 & symphony 800.1 - Sub, 1 18" xcon - RF 360.3 - 2014 Jeep Grand cherokee

I'm not sure if this is in the correct forum or not, because this isn't quite as technical as the other topics I searched through, but hopefully this one will do. I've got a friend from work who's son has an amp that is not working. I don't know a whole lot about amp repair, but I know how to check diodes, transistors, and simple stuff with a meter (no oscilloscope at my disposal unfortunately), so I am just taking a look at it for him. I dont have a whole lot of description about what the amp is doing, but from what he tells me, the amp will come on, won't go into protect or anything, but the subs will pop and them hum continuously. The first thing that came to my mind i…

So i've been searching a few different places, but I don't THINK im finding the answer I need ... The question is this(I've been pondering about it for a while) ... If you have a mono channel amplifer, and have 2 DVC subwoofers(wired how you need) .. how much does the amplifier send to each woofer? how do you go about figuring this out? If you have 2 subwoofers rated for 500RMS and a MONO Amplifier for 1000 watts RMS, how do you know each sub is getting 500 watts ? How does the amplifier split up the power(I guess)?

hey i have a problem that i cannot figure out my btl will run loud like it should but sometimes in mid beat it's like some one turned the dimmer switch down half way ?? i checked my preouts they range from .5 to 4.6 when bumping hard but as var as voltage being put out to the sub at full tilt it's only registering 20-26 at the most i an running a btl 12" duel 2 ohm wired to 1 ohm on a saz 2000d now should the volts match to somewheres around 44v at full tilt or i'm i doing somthing wrong while mesuring the volts for the out put i put the positive on the red and negative on the black for the speaker outputs right? could i be a loose conection in the box causing one voice…

I'd like some knowledgeable input on this topic. I have been told to o-scope amps with no load but am wanting to know if any of the following i've been told is true or not. Do not have a load as the amp output from the amp could fry the oscope. Do not have a load as the reading may be off. Well, i've always o-scoped amps with no load. I've o-scoped class d and class ab amps like that with no problems. Today, i attempted to o-scope this class d amp and it got damaged immediately. I contacted the manufacturer and was told it MUST have a load on it or it will do what it did. I ask why and it is due to the amp seeing 0 ohms... Wouldnt the amp go into protect? I dont understa…

My buddy recently bought a 94 Cadillac Seville, and the radio wiring was so ghetto rigged so he went to rewire everything. While wiring, something shorted and now his instrument cluster will not work at all. We pulled the dash apart and tested the power leads and the would get power right before the fuse blew and all the accessories worked fine without issues. So we figured theres a short in the factory wiring. We bypassed all the factory wiring and and gave it constant power right off the ignition and fused it the same as the factory fuse size. Still blowin fuses. The problems arose when messing with the factory radio. The radio would cut out at medium volumes. We took a…

can someone please explain these concepts of on axis and off axis to me.

I've been doing a lot of thinking and pondering how to get the sound stage and imaging in my Jimmy even better. The thought of tossing the components for an 8 or 10" midbass and some full rangers in custom pods has crossed my mind many times, along with rebuilding the door installations with something that puts the aiming pointing right where it should and going with an active setup consisting of a 7" midbass and a large format tweeter. The latter brought me to a though as to exactly what constitutes on or off axis. Is on axis just directly aimed, or is there a few degrees of leeway there that can allow a person some wiggle room before it's considered off axis? As it …

Well as it sits my subs were wired in series at the sub, then parallel at the amps which were strapped together. Putting each amp at .5ohm Apparently, if I wire the subs to be parallel at the sub then wire each sub to it's own amp with each amp still at .5ohm. It will increase coil efficiency. When wired in series you get double the amperage but half the voltage. Causing heat to build up and efficiency to be lost. In parallel it does the opposite, you get half the amperage but double the voltage. So you still get the same amount of power, it' s just with a higher voltage causing less heat build up and higher efficiency. Which is where the gain comes from Which makes sense…

I'm working on a project for a buddy of mine and I've come across a bit of a hold up. I'm more than familiar enough with circuit design, crossover components and such to build crossovers. I've been doing it for quite a few years with results that I felt were what I needed. I've come across something different with this as my buddies tweeter is significantly louder than the midrange or the woofer in his 3 way floor standing speakers. The speakers haven't been used in several years and when we hooked them up to test and tune the system for his mom's upcoming birthday party that we were going to DJ ourselves the old tweeters didn't work. Instead of waiting for me to hel…

Anyone who's read through my build log knows I had a set of Bravox CS60K components in there for awhile before going to the FR/MB setup. I tried a lot, and I do mean A LOT of things to get the speakers in the component set to sound right and was never able to succeed. In my pursuit of having all the handier tools at my fingertips to use and play with I have been trying to get a DATS V2 from PE for most of the summer and it was finally back in stock this past weekend so I finally got it ordered. It showed up yesterday and to play around with it I connected one of the old midwoofers from the Bravox components just to give it a shot. I got a weird result on the numbers …

Ok, I got this idea from looking at Decware's planar speaker design they have up, LINK and was wondering if this could be scaled up for a home subwoofer type setup. My thinking was with the large radiation area could make up for using a smaller driver due to the fact that the displacement of the airmovement is going to be pretty dang big. What I am wondering is if anyone knows of anything like this that has been done before. I think if it could be pulled off with reasonable degree of sucess it would look really cool with maggies, plus I think it'd be a challenge o build something like this too. Does anyone have an idea as to what size of panel area I would need for …

Got my hands on a FLUKE TiR thermal imager for the day so I figured I do a little testing on the heating and cooling of my subs/amps. So Playing my system full blast for about 4 1/2 minutes (usher-daddys home off decaf's zip 14) The main frequencies peak at 39hz, 38hz, and 26hz. Subs just starting to get stinky(clipping a tad to see how hot I can get them) Subs are in a 17C.F C-pillar wall after displacement, tuned to roughly 28hz. Subs are (2)18" AA Mayhem D1, amps are (2)Colossus XXV clamped at 2,800 RMS each. First image was taken within seconds after turning down the volume to 0. Shows the center(dustcap area) of the sub being roughly 132 degrees, and just next to…