Advanced Discussion

This passed weekends comp got me thinking. In BBP6 and WinISD the F3 for my NAR (Amplitude Responce) is 50.8hz, so at the comp I expected somewhere over that to be my "loudest" tone. When I did the sweep, why was 37hz? Could it have to do with the cabin of my truck? Next question, the New SI's F3 per BBP6 is [email protected] cu.ft. Wouls the "loudest be even lower then before or again does the "resonant frequency" set around 37 for the "loudest" tone. I am at a loss. My knowledge of these things is very limited and I always want to learn more

Does anyone know the factory raido wire color codes for a Lincoln navigator 2006 with navigation...

Do any of you notice how if you look at rims on a car rolling down that street while playing a song with a high frequency that you can actually see the individual spokes almost like its slowed down. Its a trippy effect. Sometimes people rims will also look like there jumping up and down on some bass notes. I also get this similar effect when i play a 50 hz and up frequency while looking at led lights ( xmas lights, BMW spoiler Brake lights) these lights also move to the bass..It is an awesome effect very entertaining! I was wondering what is causing this and does anyone else experience this?? I think it has something to do with our eyes moving at the same frequency as whi…

Hey, I was wondering how you would go about hooking up two different alternators? I have a 180 amp alternator installed on my car right now, and I was wondering if it would be possible to hook up my stock alternator also. I'm trying to do this because I have a 2500D and I have read it sucks a lot of juice. I'm guessing I would need some kind of regulator, just trying to make it where my 180 would be for my audio. Then the 80 amp would be solely for my car's electronics. Any kind of past experiences or info would be awesome. Thanks Taylor

I think this will be the best place to post this as I am not ready to buy anything for a bit, but I do want to know what to buy when I am and be better informed. What I would like to know is what limits us from getting down to verry low Hz in speakers with any real force. I know the basic design doesn't allow us to get to .0000001hz mechanicaly and such but what factors contribute to this and what should someone look for in trying to acheive this? I don't think I am asking the question correctly because I don't have a strong grasp on the lingo enough to use it properly, but I usualy understand technical jargon when used or I can look it up, so I'll give you the applicati…

I was wondering if the box would sound better ported facing towards the cabin ,up against the back seats or closer towards the trunk opening ? And would it make a difference to completely seal off the trunk ?

Anyone who's read through my build log knows I had a set of Bravox CS60K components in there for awhile before going to the FR/MB setup. I tried a lot, and I do mean A LOT of things to get the speakers in the component set to sound right and was never able to succeed. In my pursuit of having all the handier tools at my fingertips to use and play with I have been trying to get a DATS V2 from PE for most of the summer and it was finally back in stock this past weekend so I finally got it ordered. It showed up yesterday and to play around with it I connected one of the old midwoofers from the Bravox components just to give it a shot. I got a weird result on the numbers …

Thought maybe someone could take this one and explain why use a certain coil over another. Which material and what size fit what needs the best. etc.

Ok, I got this idea from looking at Decware's planar speaker design they have up, LINK and was wondering if this could be scaled up for a home subwoofer type setup. My thinking was with the large radiation area could make up for using a smaller driver due to the fact that the displacement of the airmovement is going to be pretty dang big. What I am wondering is if anyone knows of anything like this that has been done before. I think if it could be pulled off with reasonable degree of sucess it would look really cool with maggies, plus I think it'd be a challenge o build something like this too. Does anyone have an idea as to what size of panel area I would need for …

Hey guys this is going to be a long question lol i am tearing everything out of my truck and starting over even though everything is mostly out. so where do i start i have a 01 GMC sierra single cab dropped on 20s will upgrade to 24s lol and i am looking at putting in two 10s for now possibly DC or FI audio depends the mounting depth on them are around 6 inches i believe ether Level 2 or 3 DC subs the 10s depending on price and the SSD FI 10s what do you guys think? so it should fit i will build a custom box sealed possibly ported if anyone can give me some ideas it would be great i am looking for any feed back. so that gets to the wiring.... Big 3 upgrade or extra batt…

if i build a box for a lower tunning, will the music not sound as good as a higher tuned box, or will it just sound better on low frequencies? Thanks Dustin

i've been trying to figure this out for a while now.. in a ported enclosure, how would you determine the phase of the sound emanating from the port at any given time? e.g. you have a 4cu.ft box tuned 40Hz.. and you play 3 tones, 35Hz, 40Hz and 45Hz.. will the phase of the port ever be in-phase with the sub? or will the tuning of the box and tone being played determine the phase of sound coming from the port? or would the distance between the back of the woofer and the port determine it?? i know the phase of the sound coming directly off the woofer's cone is 0 deg.. what i want to get is the phase of the sound coming from the port to match that coming from the sub at the d…

well my budget is almost together to rebuild my system I have a alpine 7998 deck. I don't listen to my music very loud usally but I still want good clean sound. I need new amps (and subs but they can wait). Should I go with a higher power amp 100-150+ watt per channel and use the passive crossovers or sould I get a 40-60+ 4 channel and bi amp them with the deck 3way Xover. I have MB Quart 6.5 comp. rated @50-120. If there is a better option I am open to suggestions. I have 50 watts going to the passives and it is close to loud enough but I want more bass and more head room for when I get new subs.

Now we will start with : Sealed enclosures : A SEALED enclosure will be the smallest,and is the simplest of enclosures and will have good low frequency extension, but might not have the best low frequency extension. If space is limited. and its a good choice for SQ fans (Sound Quality). PORTED enclosures (Bass Reflex) : A PORTED enclosure will generally have a better low frequency extension for a given response shape,but would require a larger enclosure. If you made the enclosure as small as the sealed enclosure, but ported it to gain the low frequency response, the output would deviate from the desired flat response. Ported enclosures are slightly more difficult to desi…

This topic is to discuss test box alignments and tuning for a 6.5"-7" midbass. I am planning on testing quite a few mids in different alignments. MY GOAL IS TO achieve tight accurate dynamic midbass down to 63Hz, with overhead in the output. I am after a very open natural crystal clear sound. I am NOT after punchy colored thick sluggish midbass. My current set up is the Seas U18 in an IB (deadened doors). They are crossed @63hz 24db slope presently. I am running two 15" Icons sealed, crossed @50hz 24db slope. The U in its current alignment handles these frequencys, but has what I believe to be cone edge resonance once at reference level. Plus has no overhead…

I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. Im wanting to know if i can/should mount 2 yellow tops on their "backs" stacked on top of each other. Anyone have experience with this?

Hi all , I´d like to know if it matters at what voltage an amplifier makes their wattage .. is it more difficult to make an amplifier that has an higher voltage output , say 100Volts vs. 200Volts to keep amperage lower ,and why ? are the coils of drivers calulated to take a certain ratio of watts and amps ? do amplifiers of different brands but but same output have about the same voltage and amp output or are there big differences ? writing this I realize these questions sound pretty nooby , but I´ve never heard anybody talk about this ,while I´d think that it would matter , or at least on the high power amplifiers .... or are the amperages still so low it just doesn´t ma…

I need help with design enclosure for BMW trunk, i need to get bass to cabin. Maximum height 16" Maximum width 35,2" Check this topic to see what i have there right now: HERE Subwoofer: JBL GTO 1514, 15 inch.

What aluminum alloy is best for electrical? Im asking because im using very thick and wide aluminum buss bars on my next build.

Not sure which Batts to do for my setup. planned on replacing the stock Batt. and then adding a second one in the rear. - Amps, Crescendo symphony 1500 & symphony 800.1 - Sub, 1 18" xcon - RF 360.3 - 2014 Jeep Grand cherokee

Hoping someone like Scott @ Fi or some of the other manufacturers/designers on this forum will chime in here. When designing a driver how are small signal parameters and large signal peformance considered or correlated throughout the design and testing phase of the product? For example; Are the target (small signal) T/S parameters and design analyized via computer program and then large signal performance tested simply by "playing" with and testing the physical driver? Or are the large and small signal performance predicted via computer and then the physical driver tested? Do you have any sort of target large parameter shift when designing a driver compared to the sma…

Not sure if this is the right section but... I couldn't find any info searching on the topic. When doing a SQ system, is something like this graph followed? Or would it make sense to setup your system to follow the graph, and adjust your EQ accordingly to how the sensitivity of the ear is for a more balanced sound? My only thought I guess is that music isn't all recorded the same, so I guess maybe this wouldn't be useful. Just a thought I had

I'd just like to bring up a certain point to the every raging debate whether cone size plays a role in a sub's "quickness." At a certain frequency and excursion, any sub's cone will be traveling the same speed. No argument there. But what about the transitions from rest to that frequency and from one frequency to another? I'm looking at the Force = Mass * Acceleration equation here. If both a large sub and a small sub have the same motor structure, I believe it is safe to assume the force is constant. Therefore, an increase in mass has to lead to a decrease in acceleration. Are these differences in acceleration large enough for us to hear? Am I missing some other pa…

im building a sealed box for the well of my 87 trans am for 2 rl-p 12s. i'm having a bit of trouble getting 1.25 cubic feet for each speaker but i think i've found a way. however, im not sure if it will screw the sound up. im using a single chamber, not one for each speaker. does if matter if i have a bit more of the airspace on one side of the box? http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php...threadid=306257 here is the link to the plans. what i want to do is extend the bottom section so that it comes over further at the bottom, where it sits way down in the well. the dimension on there that says 22 1/2 i want to extend to the left side of the box about 2.5 or 3 inches.…

I have an 02 monte carlo. the factory amp has an internal crossover to the door drivers and seperate tweeters. if i buy new component system do i discard new external crossover. i have 4 wires in factory harness and am adding an amp to power new componts. i am keeping my stock head unit for now and there are no pre amp outs.i know that new crossover should be installed wity new spkrs. but the wiring has me stumped.thanks for any help i can get.