Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

so i sent my money to dominick irraggi for a custom hand made alternator, and havent heard back from him since. havent gotten an email, and he will not answer my calls. i have left a message, but when i tried to leave another one i got a message saying his voice mail was full. USPS confirmed that he recieved the money order on the 11th, and that was a full week ago that i have waited and not heard anything from him. can anyone help me out here, i dont wanna start pointing any fingers, but a full week when i havent heard from him and dont have an alternator yet he is holding $500 of mine isnt exactly letting me sleep easy at night. anyone else on this forum dealt with him…

I have a 2008 yukon with the stock alt and a optima yellow top and the big 3...my electrical has always been enough for my setup,im only running around 1300w but a week ago i left my light on and the next day my battery was drained...i jump started it...but now my voltage at driving and iddle drops down to 13v...before it ran around 13.9-14.7v...i used my multimeter and 13v is whats the alt is putting out...my battery with the truck off is 12.6v.:.here is the funny part...if i turn on all the lights and the front and rear AC the voltage jumps up to 14.9...is my alt dying on me or is it the batt?

So thanksgiving is coming soon which means no school for us who are still in it! Which for me means being bored out of my mind. I also just so happen to have 500 blue LED's handy. Out of all the things i could do with them, i decided to see what it would be like to put a bunch of them in the back of my explorer! For getting power to them, i was thinking about wiring them up in groups of series and then connecting them directly to the speaker wire input on the SAZ-3000d. Since i don't know nearly enough about that, i was curious as to whether that's a good idea or not (whether it will break something or not!). So the idea is that when the bass is really loud, the amp produ…

Ok so here's the deal, I have my 18" SSD and I'm about to get a bigger amp for it (aq1200d or audiopipe or sax1200d) back to the point.. I want to make sure I have enough power to give it. I drive a 97 civic I think its like a 70amp alt. All stock electrical ( im also doing the big 3 to all 1/0 next week ) but I dont know enough and need help about batteries. Basically if I add a Battery is that going to be enough power to run my subs or do second battery's not even help on a stock alt? I see a bunch of people on here who always have batteries added and so I want to know if i can just add a battery to the back and be ok with my stock alt. I'm think along the lines of a…

i contacted maxxsonics and i was told the 2610 puts out 1700 watt rms at 1 ohm at 12 volt. does the 2610 put out rated power? (i want to power 2 15 l7 rated 750 watt rms each)

Just ordered an Alpine 9887, i still need to use my onstar daily. i know PAC makes an intergration for this but its like 90 bucks. dose anybody know of anoyher company that dosent rape the consumer? that price is an outrage!

A pair of 4-ohm DVC GCONs are on the way. I'd like to think that up to $300 could get me into a decent quality 1-ohm stable amp to drive these. I have a run of 1/0 OFC to power this. I know what the numbers say, but you guys know the real world on what I could/should use to power these. Prefer to buy something used/taken care of; I think I can get more for my money that way. Looking around, some options that I *think* would be good are Soundstream (Reference), Audioque, Sundown Audio, Crescendo...probably a bunch of others. Just looking for some guidance. If it's been hashed out already, please point me there while I search!

Ok guys i'm wondering what could be causing my problem with my amplifier. First of all I'm running an saz-1500d with a fi btl d2 ohm at 1 ohm. Electrical wise is an optima up front, stock wet cell in back, everything done in 1/0 ga including big 3. I've had this installed for at least three months now with not a single issue with the amp. And It was working perfectly fine earlier on my way to work. Then going home from work I had it on for about 5 minutes, cop was coming so I shut the amp off thru the headunit(pioneer), cop passed turned it back on played for about 3 minutes then the amp just shut off. It won't turn on whatsoever. I checked my amp at home with the car run…

So i believe my headunit can go up to number 35 for volume. When playing music, around 12 is pretty decent loudness, but up to around 16 is pretty loud. and i dont think i would ever turn it above 20. when there is no music playing, my speakers hiss quite loud. the same volume of hiss can be heard when the headunit volume is set from 1 to around 10. any volume above 10 on the headunit, then the speakers his increases with each volume increase. i dont really notice the hiss when theres music playing. just wondering, is this normal? is it a bad sign? how might i go about fixing it?

I always hate these "either-or" scenarios but I'd like some ideas for 2,000 to just below 3,000rms. I'd like to run 2 10" SSA ICON's which run at 1250rms a piece ... The amplifier needs to run at 1ohm or above, not below. I have 2 JL 1000/1's I can run. Takes up a lot of room to run 2 but I know it will be stable power at 2,000rms. 100A Fuse Per Amplifier. To make things look nice, I'm considering selling the 2 amplifiers to buy a Rockford T2500-1bdCP - 2,500rms. 300A Fuse I just want someone to agree with me and say yes, you're nuts and go for it. OR Someone to say "No, don't do that, you have amazing amps already, RF is downgrading" etc etc ... It's hard to find this i…

dc power offers a 270xp ALT and mechman a 320a ALT for my car im trying to power 8k plus rms watts two fosgate t2500 and one fosgate t1000,4 and two xs power d3100 and yellow top under the hood which of those two is best for me ?

So my midbass amp shuts off after 15-20 minutes of hard playing. I am pretty sure I am asking the amp to do more than it is capable of, BUT also know my mounting location is NOT ideal. SO heres the details. The amp is a Alpine MRP-F600, capable of 300 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms. I have the amp mounted on the back of the box, with the vents running side to side, in a SEALED trunk. The midbass drivers are Aura NS10-513-4A, Aurasound NS10-513-4A 10" Subwoofer NLA from Madisound The Auras are rated @ 200 watt RMS and 800 peak. I have the Aura's crossed @ HPF 50hz 12db slope, LPF 400hz 12db slope. The Aura' are mounted IB in the front doors. There is TWO other amplifiers in th…

I'm planning out a build that is using lots of Rockford parts, the 360 is an old dsp right? has anyone got experience with this guy and is it worth buying these days when you have new tech like JL fix, aerospaces, or helix? the aerospace allows for all pass filters i could use to help fix phasing issues, what other DSP's allow for this?

I was just wondering if this is possible, or even worth it? I have never seen any manufacture attempt this, but I believe that it would improve the quality of the sound as well as be cost effective in the aspect of less material/weight/mass that three sets of RCAs use. I'm not sure if anybody will be able to answer this question, but I was just wondering what is the reason for manufactures pursuing this route. Any opinions are welcomed.

I know this mught sound like a retarded question. Im not really an audio noobie but i havent had a newer head unit. My problem is simple. i cant find the bass treble controll. having said that, i have looked and my manual innt much help. My manual says tap the audio button repeatedly untill you get to the desired function IE...SUB LEVEL, BASS, TREBLE, FADE, BALANCE then back to volume. when i push the audio button i get... SUB LEVEL, BALANCE, FADE. not bass ot treble. i figured i had a setting "clicked" that would cause these features not to be present or adjustable. I have reset the head unit using a paper clip and went back to factory settings. still have the same iss…

Hey guys, I'm just looking for some help or advice on what to do with my old amplifier. It's a RF punch series P500-2 (I believe the 2008 model? --Silver metal plates cover it), I recently had a local audio store run my wires through my new car and my intentions were to hook up that amplifier. But before they install any amp they run some kind of test on it to make sure it works, at least so he told me, and he said the amp was broken, with no further comments about it. That didn't seem right to me, although it may very well be broken, but I questioned it because I had it installed in my old vehicle (GMC Jimmy) and when I sold the Jimmy it worked just fine. So I'm thinking…

i recently got an internship and in our engineering lab where i work we have many oscopes. i was wondering how i would be able to use the oscope to set the gains on my amplifier

www.usamps.com for more info and dealer location Hey all, I got back from the USAMPS factory today and met the owner, Mr. Daniel Kim (my uncle), the Sales director, Mr. Jeff Coleman (some of you probably know of him), and the head engineer (CO-started USAMPS and designs all of the boards.) Mr. Dirk Ecker. But umm okay first off I wanted to say that these amps are AMAZING. I ain

Hey guys, I'm going to be purchasing three 10" FI SSD's soon and I was thinking about running them with a Rockford T1500-1bd but i'm not sure if I need dual 1-ohm or dual 2-ohm vc's and how I would go about wiring them up. This is also my first post and love the forum so far guys, keep up the good work. i'm open to all suggestions but am on a budget so plz try to keep that in mind. Also the sups will be in a mono ported box going in the bed of a single cab ranger doing a blow through setup.

My Christmas gift from my family is going to be a new HU. I'm replacing a Dual unit with either a Pioneer or Kenwood as I've heard more good things from those 2. The new Pioneers have android app control through Bluetooth. The BT in my Dual has pretty crappy volume compared to plugging it through the aux jack. Are all units like that? Or is it just the fact I've been running a lower quality HU?

Monoblock, two channel, four channel, whatever it may be. If your like me there are some amps out there that you have to own. Let's see em everyone Here are a few of mine.. AQ 20k SAZ-5000D Soundqubed-3500.1 CT Sounds 7000.1 Couple others: Saz 3500d BC 5500D DC: 5k SQ-2200 Now lets see all of yours!

Title says all. Will be running 1 ohm. Need amp around 150 that does rated. Thank you!

I own a 2003 sunfire which currently has a 105amp alternator. I was looking to run about 1300rms off it, but I know the alternator isn't big enough. The problem I'm having is that I can't find anyone who builds a high output alternator for my car, and I looked into getting it rebuilt, but I can't do that either. I don't know what to do. Are there any specialists for problems like this, or am I screwed?

So i have a sundown 1200D and i did the Big 3 but thats all... besides that everything is stock. Then recently my sub would randomly stop playing, especially at higher volumes. At first i thought it was my headunit because i could get it to play if i pushed a certain way, well sometimes haha. Then i took it to where i got everything installed and they ran a "diagnostics test" and they said they couldnt find anything except maybe that it was too much power for my stock electrical and that ive fvcked up my amp. Well i cant find the papers to my order with the amp so idk what to do there.... but besides that, the guy told me if i had a capacitor that what happened wouldnt ha…

Came across this site and thought i would post it for you guys. pretty interesting. http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html