Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

ok so i was bumpin' and after a while(10-15min), my fuse popped so i park/turn off the car, go to the back and change my 50amp fuse(got a couple for backup in the car) so then i turn on the car, i start turning up the volume VERY slowly... then I hear and see a BIG spark as if a thunder was in my trunk(the amp is naked)... and electrical smell and smoke went off, but not alot..., so i turn off the car straight up and go take off my rear battery's negative connections... so now idk what to do? what did cause this? and why my fuse popped in the first place(does that sometimes, not the first time)... is it safe to plug things bak? the reason i dindt is because I dont want …

Has anyone here had any experience with them. I was able to purchase one for $200 planning running a 10 z v.4 at .5ohm with it.

I just installed an avionixx 440.4 amp into my rsx and I am hearing 'static' distortion coming through all my speakers. The distortion, though slight, 'plays' along with each note of the song if that makes any sense to anyone. I was thinking of adding a noise suppressor but I am not sure if that would be another waste of money. I am begining to think perhaps the amp is a defect or just not up to snuff for the job (quality-wise). Here is what I have tried thus far: -Ensured secure ground to the vehicle chassis using 4 guage cable (same gauge as power line). -ran rca straight from the deck to the amp thus negating any possiblity the other rca's/speaker cables could be cau…

Ok so I have an Adassa Audio The Warlord amp and I was setting the gains with a 50hz test tone and a dmm and right when I got it at 70 volts it started to fluctuate. It went down to 66v then 60v then 50 and so on. It got to the point where I turned up the gain 100% and it was only giving out 51v!! I shut everything down and waited a while because the amp was hot and when I tried to set the gains again it worked for a while (stayed at 70v) but then dropped back to 60v. I now think something is wrong with the amp. Has anyone heard of this problem? I am thinking about sending it to Chris at db-r.... opinions? Thanks!

In my 2017 Ram SLT, there is installed a 10.4” Tesla-style Head unit with 1024X768 screen resolution. It looks for all the world like the PhoenixAndroidRadios unit pictured at the beginning of the thread listed above. The top icon row is: Navigation Radio Music Console Bluetooth Video AUX After some time, I accidentally discovered that by swiping this to the left, more icons appeared: Explorer Phone Link Settings App list DVR File manager Camera Within Settings | About, I discovered this: Model number RKPX3 (px3 manufactured by Rockchip) Android version 7.1.1 Nowhere did I see a name of the maker of the Head unit itself. …

ive always messed with pioneer head units. i just sold an old pioneer flip out and ready to buy something new because my old stock is not cutting it. if i go with a regular cd player im either going with the http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45846_JVC-KD-HDR61.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42778_Pioneer-DEH-P8400BH.html if i decide to tackle a double din im either going with the pioneer or the jvc.im just wanting to know which would be the better head unit and which offers the best features. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33384_JVC-KW-AVX640.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42781_Pioneer-AVH-P2400BT.html

will the sundown 3000d run 1 ohm stable, and not get hot. im interested in buying it when they restock it. if i can run 2 fi bl's at 1 ohm. and if so will this be to much power.

How can you tell the crossover points on this 2way:

will this amp run at 1 ohm daily? http://jbl.com/car/products/product_detail...ser=GTS&cat=AMP i want to get two of them and two brahma's, 1 amp on each brahma. since the brahma is dual 2 ohm, the amp needs to be 1 ohm stable right? will that jbl amp work? thanks for any replies.

So in my next build I'm going to be running around 3500 watts probably a bc3500. For my current electrical setup i have a dc 270xp alt the big 3 and a d5100r in the front. Voltage @ idle is 15.2v. If i run 2 runs of ofc 0ga to a deka 9a31 in the back then one 2ft run of 0ga from the batt to amp is it going to be enough to to keep me above 13v for the most part or will i need a second 9a31 in the back. I plan on getting a second one later on anyway but would it be necessary? Thanks.

Hooking up a second battery is something I've never done. Do I run a wire from the starter battery to the secondary battery. Or do i run a wire from my alternator to the secondary battery. What kind of fuse do I use? More than 1 on each end? Thanks

First question: What is a "float charge"? I've heard the term a few times, but never what it means. Second: How do you maintain a "float charge"? Again, I've heard about it and from what i hear it seems like a good thing, but don't know how. Third: What are some "budget" batteries? I don't need to power a small country, but i would like a decent reserve, as my RF 200.2 beats up on my current battery, a somewhat old Interstate 1000cca. Fourth, and finally: What are some ways to help keep your batteries healthy, or functional for longer? Thanks guys! I forgot to add, that for the time being, i am using a Pyramid 3amp constant/4amp surge AC/DC converter to charge my battery,…

Well I just got back from picking up this earthquake amp. In a little rough shape but it is a ph1000w 2 channel. Any input on this?

like the title says. i need a 2 channel amp that puts out 150 watts at 4ohms. any suggestions guys?

So seeing as how I've recently become a victim of theft I'm thinking of what I need to do before I even think about installing the new setup I've been working on.. I had the idea of wiring in a hidden switch that is connected to the lock actuator\circuit to the rear cargo area door..This way if someone does get in through other doors and they try to unlock the back to get in and remove stuff, they won't be able to (unless they find the switch..which will be hidden well.) Does this make sense\sound like a decent approach? Obviously an alarm is going in too.

can you test voltage of RCAs with a DMM?

Has anyone tried there high output alternators or have opinions about them?

i was browsing the forums and i noticed that someone used what appeared to be regular steel nuts, bolts and washers as a wire terminal to pass wires from the sub through its enclosure (saw it in the pictures of the guy doing a review on a Fi Q 18" sub). i was wondering if anyone could confirm this as being a good method to pass wires through a sub enclosure, or should i just stop being lazy and cut out a small square in my box and put a factory made terminal to pass wires through. im guessing as long as it's a nice thick bolt with zero resistance there should be no drop in wattage. i was just hoping i could get some feedback on using this method. thanks-phil

Current set up: PSI P2 15" Hifonics Zeus 3200.1d Wired:2 Ohm While listening to the music yesterday the bass suddenly cut off. Check the wires for amp everything looks secure. Check the subwoofer everything looks good. Amp turns on but sends no music. Is the amp blown?

I am going to use a memphis 16 PRD 1000.1 amp to power a Fi Q12, I really want this sytem to sound nice so how would this amp work? If there are any better for the same price range please let me know. thanks C memphis Prd 1000.1

checking online i have picked 3 choices... 1. PPI D2000/1 + PPI A600/4 2. Soundstream Tarantula TRX2000.1 and TRX880.4 3. Boston Acoustics GT 28 + GT 42 Which combo would be best? setup would be a so called LOUD SOUND QUALITY type, a good set of fronts, might be 3 ways but with a good sounding loud sub from behind... Thanks for any inputs and experiences shared...

Hi guys, i have 4AWG power and group wire which i need to get in to my SAZ-1000-d amp? cant seem to find a connector that will go over the cable and into the amp side! Thanks Pez

So i got a double din installed on my car and after about a month my system would just randomly turn off(headunit would power off and same with subs and amp) it did it once then would reboot. I took it in they changed the wire harness and the ground. It fixed it for about 2 days i then decided to change my negative battery cable and that fixed it for a few months and then it came back and i noticed that with the head unit turned off that there was a bass note from the subs playing real faint until i turn the bass knob it gets louder. What could be the issue on why my head unit turns off by its self faulty head unit, bad amp need help asap.

So i bought a 1male to 2 female rca adapter from monster because this hu only has one output for subs...but for some reason i cant access the subwoofer controls or the dolby 4.1 settings on this thing...it appears only in ghost writting not in white...whats is wrong?

So I dont know if I will need an alternator, at least I hope not. However, if I did I dont think it is possible to find an aftermarket one for the 4.2L as it is not a very common engine in the f150...anyone have any ideas (I would not be able to afford an alternator for a long time anyways, might have a new truck by then anyways...)