Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Here's what i have Excessive Amperage 180 amp alt. 110 at idle big three plus more doen in 1/0 ga optima yellow 19 feet 1/0 ga to the trunk 5 inches of 1/0 from amp to ground MTX thunder elite 1501d during testing yesterday i found that on the voltmeter mounted in the dash (aftermarket) it would drop down to 12.3 and lower during a romp on the new xcon. i haven't tested at the amp yet but shouldn't the volt meter be a good indication of the drop in the rear? the alt tested out good the last time we had it benchtested by excessive. any clues or ideas?

Just installed my cda-9886 and it plays the radio but on cd's it shows that its playing but no sound. Same with ipod. I'm thinking it has to do with it possibly beig a faulty cd player... which is ganna piss me off. Any ideas?

Im looking for a good reliable amp with will do at least 1500 RMS at 1 ohm at 12v and be as efficiant as possible. No more than 2000 RMS at 1 ohm. I have my mind set on a RF T1500.1BD but Im open to new ideas.

Hi, I just received a new sundown sae-1200dv2..Hooked it up, runs fine however the crossover is not working properly. My current setup consists of the stock head unit ('06 tahoe) with a Scosche LOC-80 line out converter with the gains set around 85%. I was running a directed 1200/5 before and the setup worked fine. However now using the sae when I turn the LPF all the way down I still hear vocals coming out of my subs. I was told this is because my old amp used a 24dB slope, and the sundown amp uses 12dB. I have no idea where to go from here. Any suggestions please?

Anyone have experience or opinions on Memphis amps? I'm considering a 5 channel to run some comps and a sub. What are Memphis comparable to? Thanks

Everything was working perfectly til yesturday when I took out my batterys ground and added another ground wire, when I turned the car back on my voltage gauge and both amps powered up but the HU didn't light up at all and started beeping really fast for the first few seconds then stopped, I hit the reset button on the HU and now nothing powers up (HU, amps, voltage gauge)...I checked both fuses on the amp (1 fuse on red power wire, 1 glass fuse on yellow "back up" wire) both were replaced and I've checked the necessary fuses in the interior fuse box with no luck... I've already emailed eclipse with no response in 3 days Im guessing that because they shut down all US oper…

I've got a P3002 that was missing the chrome cover when I bought it. I've searched all over, RFs site, watched ebay for about a month and never seen one. Anyone know where I could find one, or maybe point me in the right direction? Obviously its just cosmetic, but I'm in the process of a major rebuild, and am going to have my amps showcased, so it would be nice to have the chrome cover for it. Thanks for the help.

Hey guys I am looking into buying the above listed amp (orion cobalt cs 500.5) but for some reason I can't find the specs for this amp. So far the ONLY specs I have found but NOT confirmed are RMS Power at 2 Ohms: -1 W x 50 Epinions.com - Search Results: Orion Cobalt $ 500 _5_Amplifier___Cobalt_CS_500_5 (whatever that means) and 50x4@4ohm and 200x1@ xxOHM basically if it is 50x4@4ohm that is good but if it is 200x1@4ohm that isn't good lol. so if ANYONE has better Google skills then me please help me out or if anyone can verify with past experiences or a manual that would be awesome! and here is a pic of it! thanks Kenneth

my friend has a 92 ford taurus with a 130 amp alternator and wants to upgrade his system to a audiopipe 15001d is his electrical sufficient enough for that amp or would he need a second battery in the trunk

ok o i know how to wire an second batt but my question is about the fusing part... this is what i was planning on doing and please somebody correct me if im wrong or if i need to add another fuseor fuses + from starter batt to + rear batt - from start batt to - rear batt (thats all 0 gauge) then + from rear batt with 0 gauge wire, fuse holder,and fuse to my sub amp then + from rear batt with 4 gauge wire with 4 gauge fuse holder to my front stage speaker amp that mean no fuse under the hood and no fuse b/w batts would that be ok??

I'm wondering why when I changed from 300w @ 4 ohms on my amp, to 600w @ 2 ohms I havn't noticed an increase in current draw. I just picked up a couple Z15s off a seller on here that listed them as DVC4 ohm, and I'm only running one of them due to lack of power/trunk space. I have it wired up to my sae1000d in parallel to get a 2 ohm load. I just pulled a 2 12s out that were wired @ a 4 ohm load on the amp, so I'm going from the 300w @ 4ohm to 600w @ 2ohm. I didn't adjust the gain because the voltage is the same at about 35 volts. But since I'm doubling the amount of wattage being used, shouldnt it be pulling 2 times as much current? The output is about the same as the 2 …

Hi all, My question is a daily/Competing question. it has to do with the Street classes in DB drag. in street A they only allow One (1) battery in the stock location. which is fine, for competing and doing the whole burp it and go thing. but with an saz-3000 i feel i will need more than one battery for daily driving and for the other organization im competing in Midwest SPL (no battery restrictions). so my question is what is the best way to do this? safely of course. My initial thought was to have a sort of buss bar for positive and negative (this may get complicated so bear with me). I will run one 2/0 welding cable from the front battery to the trunk Buss bars …

yes another one of those threads... I know which batteries are better then others. But when you look at what you get for a certain amount of money, then it gets hard to choose. This is for a comp/daily setup, not only burps. I have: Hifonics Colossus II (3000W rms), SS Ref4.920 (600W rms), Two Fi Q 18" and a HO alternator from Iraggi rated at 250A. These batteries will be in the back. 2 x Kinetik KR3112, same as HC2400 just the racing line (the red batteries). 2 x XS power D3400 2 x Odyssey PC1700 2 x Xstatic Batcap 2000 The battery upfront will also be replaced by a new battery from the same producer as the batteries I choose to have in the back. The reason for my …

I finally got my system bought and all put together today!! 2 2 0hm 12 inch L7s Kicker zx 1500 streetwires powerstream 0/1 300A anl fuse optima redtop so the problem is... i turn my truck on, system turns on fine, as i turn the bass up, it shuts off, i turn it down, it gradually comes back on after a few seconds. And does the same thing each time. i grounded it to the seatpost bolt ( which i found out briefly agok, IS NOT ATTACHED TO THE FRAME) i Wired the subs down to 1 ohm each, equalling a 2 ohm load, but the weird thing is, is that the12volt.com said to wire it one way (for 2 ohm load) and kicker said to wire another way?????? so i went with this way- as oppossed to …

...a 4 channel amp w/ all 4 channels being used? http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/In-Dash_CD_n_DVD_Receivers/1-DIN_CD_Receiver/KDC-MP342U

Anybody have any experience with these VMAX Charge Tanks - Audio ? Local audio shop said they have been approached to carry the line.

I dont want you all to just check Sundown cause of the Forum, i want it based off of reliability, and durability, THEN vote on favorites ;P

I have an 02 Ford F250 5.4l XLT CrewCab truck. I 'm running: (1) 12" 09 BL with a Diamond Audio 1000.1 (4) Polk db6500 components with a 1000.4 Yellow Top 250A Rhino Alternator Ever since I installed the BL I've been dimming. I probably have to install a seperate battery but I dont understand why I'm dimming when I got a new 250A Alt? I though the amp makes the power?

Hi everyone, I need some help tweaking my humble system lol. I have a JVC KW AVX820 http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q311/macuser74/The%20Bitch/DSC09965.jpg?t=1271260441 kicker 08ks6502 Component system with two woofers, two tweeters, and two crossover networks Symmetrical 12dB/octave high-pass-12dB/octave low-pass crossover/protection network with 3-position tweeter attenuation 75 Watts RMS (150 Watts peak) power handling with 4-ohm impedance 35 Hz-21kHz frequency response 2 Kicker 07cvr124: 12-inch CompVR Subwoofer with 4-ohm impedance Injection-molded cone with 360-degree back bracing and aluminized coating; ribbed Santoprene surround 400 Watts RMS (800 Watts peak) …

well my 160a2 rockford amp is not working so i opened it up and found that a resistor was blown it was brown around the area it was in. I think i can fix it but i dont now what part it is i need there are so many different resistors. The one on the amp has four band the out side ones are like a brown gold color and the middle ones are some dark color.

I have a friend that's willing to work on a damaged eclipse 3242 that I have. He needs parts and can't find what he needs in the US. Here's the email I got from him, which is all Greek to me. If you know of a place to get these in the US let me know. Or if you know of an equivalent part I can use instead, that would be great. Hey Mospec is the company name. From what I found its a russian company that might not be arround anymore. I found a company that has F20C10A and F20C10C and the spec's say they are the same. but im not fully sure....both are SwitchMode Dual Fast Recovery Power Rectifier, 200V ,12A, 65c -150c, 3pin TO-220AB I.C's. You need 2 of each just to make sur…

I have a PDX 4.100 and (2) 6.5 Alpine Type R component sets, what do i set the input channel too? I think 1+3/2+4 but the way Alpine worded this shit on the manual has me lost. I just want it so each 6.5 gets 100wrms. "Setting this switch to 1 + 3/2 + 4 will sum the CH-1 and CH-3 input and send it to CH-3 while the CH-2 and CH-4 inputs are summed and sent to CH-4" Thanks guys.

My system is currently running active with a 9886, h100 and is powered by an alpine mrp-f250 [email protected] @4 ohm, my speakers are focal access series components(minus the passive crossovers). I have an Eclipse 3242 that I thought was a good amp, but turns out to have some issues. I bought the eclipse for $75 about a year ago and it's been sitting. It looks pretty beefy internally and has alot of fusing (4x20a) making me wonder if it's underated. It's rated [email protected] 4 ohm. And 55x4 @13.8v @4 ohm. I have a friend that can mess with it and hopefully fix it for around $20. I have three options that I would like help with. I can keep using the f250, fix the eclipse and use it,…

Have just recently purchased from CF a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X494 Receiver, 2 prs of Boston Acoustics S85 6x8 2 Way Speakers for my front and rear doors, and a SoundOrdnance M1350 Amp for my subwoofer. The subwoofer I have is an Image DynamicsID10D4 v.3 10in subwoofer with the following specifications: SMS Power handling: 50 - 400 Watts DC Resistance (Re) .95 / 3.8 ohm Resonant Frequency (Fs) 22.70Hz Electrical "Q" (Qes) .385 Mechanical "Q" (Qms) 4.14 Total "Q" (Qts) .352 Equivalent Volume (Vas) 2.75 ft3 One Way Linear (Xmax) 17.0 mm Cone Area (Sd) 350 cm2 Sensitivity (Spl) 86.5db Speaker Displacement .05 ft3 Dual 4 Ohm Here are the specifications for the Amp: m…

Hello, I just placed an order on the SSA store for a sundown SAZ-1000.1D And i am in process of purchaseing some fuses and wold like a bit of help. Im running a 4 Guage from the front battery to a ANL fuse holder and it runs back to a mini ANL fused distributor block along to my two amps which will be the sundown SAZ-1000.1D(not shure what fuses it caries) and a Cadence Xenith series amp for my front components(This amp has a 30A fuse on it). What size fusing would you guys suggest me to use on my ANL fuse holder and my mini ANL fused distributor block?? Help would be great. Im trying to get prepared for when i recive the amps. By the way, for the moment i will use the su…