Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

ok so my system is almost ready to install just waiting on my ethos to come and i just paid to have my box made which should be done by the first week of oct .. im trying to do the big 3 with a friend me a me and him have never done one b4.. he knos more them me about car audio stuffs so we should be good.. i just went and got some battery terminals at the car audio place in town.. each terminal has two 0 gauge inputs and two 8 gauge inputs it looks like..my battery is a die hard platinum.. it has reg posts like my stock battery had.. my termeinals go rite over the posts.. so what do i do with the stock wires that have that rings on the end? do i cut off that metal ring a…

I have been looking for differant deals to pop up for an amplifier for my next build. For power, I am looking for something close to 1kw at 2 ohm, doesn't have to be exact. The sundown sax-1200d has been an option for me from the beginning. Recently, I noticed that the Stetsom V 1K5 is on sale for pretty close to the same price as the sax-1200d. After alot of research, it appears to me that stetsom amplifiers are pretty good, reliable etc... As far as customer service, I'm sure that sundown would win that category. Either of these two amplifiers would be at the top of my budget. Would I lose anything by going with the Stetsom V 1K5? I know it is capable of a little …

I purchased a used Kicker ZX 750.1 for really cheap that was advertised as working condition but only after the engine is turned on. I figured this problem had to be unique to to the previous owner's car but it isn't. I tested this thing in two vehicles and it turns on with the ignition but only amplifies a signal after the vehicle itself has been turned on. Furthermore, if the car is turned off without completely turning the key it will continue to work as expected. I'm here to see if anybody knows anything about this. If it's a super cheap/easy fix I'm all over it, but more than that I'm just curious as to what's up. Besides this, the amp works exactly as it should…

I don't want to use any of the wiring that comes from my truck. How would I run new wire and what wires would I have to include? I don't need speaker wires because my amp powers my speakers Head Unit is http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/In-Dash_CD_n_DVD_Receivers/1-DIN_CD_Receiver/KDC-MP342U Truck in sig.

I picked up a 2nd battery today. Wired it + from the front battery to positive on the back battery, Then positive from the back battery to + on the amp. Then with the front battery negative disconnected I connected negative from the back battery to ground on the amp. So with the car being shut off and the front battery negative disconnected my amp is on, I basically have constant power? What am I doing wrong? Do I have to connect both front and back grounds to complete a loop or what? Is there any chance of blowing my amp or anything else by trying it? My remote wire for the amp is hooked up to the deck n I jus don't get why my amp is constantly on when the front isn't ho…

i have my Viper 2500.1D on 13' of 1/0 (OFC) power wire and 2' of ground (CCA). I have a 2500W inverter that I am going to install and need to run more wires for. I have a group 49AGM directly under the truck where the amps are. I have some pure copper 2/0ga wiring that im going to use for power and ground. the power inverter and the viper both have dual 4ga inputs for both power and ground instead of single 0ga. what connectors would you recommend for the dual 4 to 2/0 connections? would it be preferred to run the current 0ga to the power inverter and then run new 2/0ga to the battery under the truck? so as im typing this im thinking: it would be best to just use a…

I'm having a small problem with my system. I can really use some feedback from you guys. I have 2 soundstream eg-15's(400 rms ea.) hooked up to my SS tarantula tr880/2 (880 rms). everything is great ,they hit hard, but when I turn up the gain and volume for higher spl the amp will shut off. but only on certain hard hitting songs. I'm pretty sure the amp can handle these volumes, being an old school tarantula. I'm thinking it may be the voltage drop it causes at these volumes. But the voltage drop doesn't seem to bad going by the headlights. I do only have a stock alt., and I haven't done the big 3. I'm wondering if voltage drop would cause the amp protection to turn off.…

Say I have an amp that has 2 power and ground inputs. Say if I just use one with twice the size power wire is that ok? Or is there some important reason that they are split up to begin with? Fast advice is appreciated.

checking online i have picked 3 choices... 1. PPI D2000/1 + PPI A600/4 2. Soundstream Tarantula TRX2000.1 and TRX880.4 3. Boston Acoustics GT 28 + GT 42 Which combo would be best? setup would be a so called LOUD SOUND QUALITY type, a good set of fronts, might be 3 ways but with a good sounding loud sub from behind... Thanks for any inputs and experiences shared...

I'm currently in the process of designing/setting up my first system. I currently have a pioneer deh-p690ub head unit but haven't been able to figure out all of its features yet. Can i have an active front stage with this headunit? I have a set of focal 6.5 V2 polyglass components, not installed, but i'm thinking about returning them to tweeter because after browsing through the threads here I'm sure i can get a better front stage for the money. Any input would be helpful, thanks.

HOLY chit BALLS I can't wait till my amps get here... I'm just f-in happy, I got lots of amplifiers on the way!!! WOOOOOOTTTTT....can't wait! -Kicker KX 450.2 (225rms x 2 @2ohms for XXX mids) -Kicker KX 200.2 (~30-40 rms x 2 @6ohms for Vifa Tweets) - TWO Powerbass XA3000d's ;) (One daily, two for comps ) -One 15" RE MT anticipation sucks... NG

My lights don't dim or anything, maybe slightly if i crank it up. but its an 05 Civic, stock alt and battery...is there still any concerns i should be aware of? my amps: JLA 400/4 (using 75x2 currently) class a/b MTX 1501d (using about 1400 watts, 1.33ohm load) class d 4 guage power. Overall, system seems fine, nothing cutting out..etc. The OEM alt is a Mitsubishi, no idea how many amps it pushes but i'd be suprised if its over 100a. if lights don't dim, is it ok?

If anyone has pics of the CV EXL400.4 guts please post them or send me a pm I want to buy a broken one and would like to see gut pics before spending money.

Is it ok to enhance the bass by using the fader control? I am running the front stage off of Channels 1 & 2, the sub of of 3 & 4.

if i get a h/o alt do i have to change anything else on the car for it to handle the extra amps???

anyone have any expierence with these amps ?? i found someone willing to trade one for my 2 hifonics brz2400.1 amps and some cash... just wanna make sure it does 10kwrms though before i trade....

Alright guys, I'm looking to expand my knowledge on car audio and I'm wanting to look into active setups and how they work, do's and dont's, ect. I'm not trying to look lazy here and not able to do my own research but I cant seem to find some quality websites explaining this when I search it up. Anything will help, either your own knowledge or websites that you know of. Thanks -Mike

OK i have never really bought decent speakers other than subs in my cars, and now its time. i would like to get a sax-100.4 from sundown to run some speakers. this will be going in an 06 scion xB. so my options are 4" dash, 6.5" components in front doors, and 5 1/4" coax in the rear. what are some good quality speakers that wont break the bank but sound great with 100 watts. i was thinking alpine type r's but i dont know. Should i ditch the dash speakers? and upgrade the others? thanks

I just built a box for my new fully loaded Fi BL 15. Specs: H:18" W:17.5" L:38".....Square port length: 4.5" Port length 2: 20.75"...with 3/4 MDF. Box is tuned to 33.14hz and the Box volume is 3.822cuft. Sound good? will it work?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000E3ZDP0/ref=dp_image_z_0?ie=UTF8&n=172282&s=electronics

I have a kenwood unit now that I like because of the iPhone interface and the front panel USB. Problem is that it only has 2.5 volt pre-outs. Dont really care of brand as long as it is name brand and reliable. Cd's are a no go as the vibration from the bass just ejects them now. So I'm looking for something that has USB and preferably iPhone compatible and has 4 volt pre outs. Open to all options and wanna stay around $250-$350ish range. Any help appreciated

Sub pops when I turn off the car. Talked to physics teacher and he says it is probably a surge that happens when I shut the car off that makes the speaker pop. I am inclined to agree with him... What should I do to fix this problem? Amp= SAZ-1000D if that helps.

I,m looking at the saz 1500 or 2000 . but my cousin say s i would need electrical up grades with the 2000 and not the 1500. on another forum i read even the 1500 needs electrical upgrades. is this true and if so would it be major? Also i want to run one deep and loud 15 ported , I like hdc3 but aluminum coils need too much power. any other suggestions?

Ok I have a mechamn 220a alt... Gonna use 6 xs d3100s... Was planning on running 2 4/0 runs for alts positives and 2 4/0 runs for the alts negative....well after looking at it I dont know if it will work... I don't have much room on the alts posts... Or much room in the firewall...Would it hurt me just to do 1 run each of 4/0 for the alts neg and pos?

I have a samll problem and maybe someone here knows what is happening. I have a line driver on my amps so here it goes. I turned the gains on the LD up to about 1/2 way. I then proceeded to set the gains on the amps using a DMM and 50hz test tone to volume level 26 on my HU. Everything was good until I played music. It doesn't seem to matter which song I play. When I get to about 22-24 (depends on song) the sub amp cuts off. It's not in protect mode it just turns off entirely. My door/dash speakers warble, then go to producing a clicking noise. If I turn the car off and let it sit for a couple minutes, everything works fine when I turn it back on. Keep in mind t…