Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i was just wondering if anyone knew of a quality monoblock amp, 1-2ohm stable, for under $250.00 and between 800-1200watts. i need one for my two 12" subs. but the thing is i am Very limited on cash. any suggestions would be greatly appriciated

I just had the 5030 installed in my girlfriends car and I need advice from someone that has experience with this deck on the settings. I have 6 1/2s in the front and back running off the deck and a 750 watt Kicker amp powering a sealed Icon 15.

What's the difference in performance between the MB Quart 1500D and the Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D considering there's almost a $250 price difference?

I just ordered an Audioque 2200d and I want to order the wiring kit now, not when the amp gets here and want to know what size cable does this amp take? I'm speaking of the main (+) and (-).

I have always crimped my connections as they mostly are 8 awg or less. Moving to large wire I have found crimping to be a royal pain in the a$$. I was looking at soldering as a nice option but I have only ever soldered water pipes. Is the process and technique basicly the same? Flux the wire and inside of bass connector, heat connector, insert wire and place solder around the edge of the wire so that it is pulled into the connector? Any help that you could provide or tricks of the trade would be great. Plan on upgrading the Big 3 this weekend and some under the hood wiring. Thank you.

This wouldnt be really recommended for those who do not compete so I'll tell you now that this isn't necessary or needed for normal use of an amplifier. But for those who want the most out of their amps on the meter, read on... I am going to be getting into some projects soon for the car audio comp world and start making my own everything... I have several plans laid out for the competition world and for starters, i plan on making some multi insert wire blocks. Basically what it is is this- (for amps that accept 1/0 inserts only at this time) It would be a block of copper that inserts into the amp's power\ground terminal then outputs in a manner that can accept 2 ring ter…

Hey Guys! Alpine has came out with a new PDX series! They look pucking sexy as ever Few Copy and Pastes from their website. Power Management Processor PDX amps incorporate Alpine’s new Power Management circuit. The Power Management Processor controls all aspects of amplifier performance, monitoring voltage, temperature and output to ensure uninterrupted power output for non-stop listening. If the amp gets too hot, the Thermal Protection circuit kicks in and gradually decreases output power until it cools down. Once cool, the power output automatically increases back to the previous level. If the circuit detects a Low Battery condition, it will gradually decrease power …

Friend told me it's a new brand on the block The Crescendo 3KWP Monoblock amplifier exhibits a multitude of advantages for it's users system. Supplying over 3300 watts RMS of CLEAN power at 1 ohm at a normal 14volts to the subwoofers its powering. Made with some of the highest grade components and built with industry leading attention to detail, the 3KWP is the powerhouse it was made to be. Backed by a 2 year transferable warranty and 5 day money back garantee, we are confident that this monoblock is the right choice for you. Class-D Monoblock stable into very low Ohm loads Gold plated Tiffany input/output connecters for optimal signal transfer and no ripped out ground s…

ok so im going to need to get a new headunit for my car, which stereo is cheap (300>) but allows me to control my Ipod through the stereo its self. ive got one in mind but i want you all to tell me what you think is a good stereo. also i saw that Soundstram has some perdy flip ups that do exactly what i need it to, but im guessing the price is like a grand. anyone got info on their stereos?

Ok guys I'm looking for some advice towards the two topics as stated in the title. I'm running a sundown Sae-1200d and an FI bl 18". Currently stock alt , stock batt, all 1/0 ga wire and batt neg to chassis ground in 1/0. I'm initially looking to put a new battery up front or (possibly in the back) but the new batt would be running of the stock alt for while whether it be in the trunk with the stock batt up front or the new batt up front solo. I'm looking to save some $ up and get a new ho alternator in later on. Right now I'm looking at the kinetik hc1800 which does 1150 cca and fits my budget of being under $250. This battery will also fit up front under my hood as wel…

I have a 2.2L 2002 Oldsmobile Alero and am having a tough time finding a high output alternator bigger than 150amps. I'm just wondering if somebody has this car and purchased one, I called a place and they said an alternator made for a 1999-2002 Chevy cavalier MIGHT FIT, so that's a take a chance and hope you're right. I am running 2000 watts right now, my alternator fried today and have been searching for hours trying to find one but nothing comes up. I figure I might as well get one now instead of wasting $100 to get a new 105amp one. Otherwise would a second battery work after the big 3 upgrade? I have 2 1000 watt alpines and 2 pioneer premiers ts-w3004spl but will be …

Will work for an amp stable at 1/2 ohm mono correct?

So I'm not new to car audio, but I'm new to the fine tuning. Years ago, I'd wire a sub to an amp and be done with it. Now, I've found that it's a little more technical than that. Here's my issue: I'm doing the 'gain setting,' and I'm not sure how to calculate the target voltage. I read somewhere that when you run a dual 4ohm sub, you have the double the target voltage, but I'm not sure if that's true or not. The target voltage of my current sub amp is 43.8@ 4ohms, 42@3ohms and 40@2ohms. I'm running an old JL 12W3v2, dual 4ohm sub. I have it wired in parallel, so I can bring it down to 2ohms. Does that mean that my target voltage is now 80? My brain is going to start spill…

heey guys i have a Fibl 18un wiht cooling dual 10hm to a jbl gto1200 amp going at 1200watts rms. so orginally i set the gain by ear and had it at little less then 3/4s of the way. Then i set it using the voltmeter and play a 50hz tone with my radio volume 3/4 and i set it to 47 My math for it was 1200X2 then take square root u'd get around 49. but when i did that and played bass i love you at about little less then 3/4 it was barely flexing before it was just dancing adn it not as loud and it sounded like there was more stress on the sub. Got any advice?

Hi everyone, I'm looking to finish the big 3 in my car. I already have a 0 ga wire from battery - to chassis. My alternator is difficult to reach. I must "lift" the car to reach it under the motor. My question is : can I take a point anywhere on the engine block and ground it to the chassis of the car (with a 0 ga wire) ? (I know !). That would be the third part of the big 3. I have a stock alternator, maybe the (+) alt to (+) battery part is not a "must do" part for me. Another question : I have one 0 ga wire with ring connectors, and one 2/0 marine grade wire with ring connectors too. Which one would you choose for the battery to ground, and for the engine block to g…

You may be wondering why I made this thread but us people need to know... Considering the hifonics brutus BRZ1200.1 is CEA appliant. Which one would be a better choice comparing to the sundown SAZ-1000.1D?? From what i know the BRZ-1200.1D is rated 900RMS at 2 ohm and 1200 at 1ohm and the sundown SAZ-1000.1D is rated 600@ 2ohm and 1000@1ohm. They both fall at the same price of 280$ shipped. But does the hifonics brutus. BRZ 1200.1D have a challange to the sundown SAZ-1000.1D?? HIFONICS - Brutus BRZ Amplifiers Sundown Audio - SAZ-1000D

Here's my new nightmare problem. I have to completely re-build my H/O alternator for my 2005 Ford Ranger XLT. This is a 3.0 V6 2WD and a Iraggi 260 amp H/O Ford 3G Large Case alternator. Due to a limited budget I am pressed to do this myself instead of sending it off for repair. I will be re-building it with a H/O 240 amp re-build kit. Here's some pics of my progress so far. I still need to order the kit so I have to wait to re-build it and test the final results. Here's the rear bearing and slip ring: Rotor assembly has a broken lead: The rectifier this part usually goes bad. It has diodes that take the AC power produced from the Rotor & Stotor and turns it into…

hey guys u have a fi bl 18in dual 1 ohm going to a 1200gto jbl amp at 1200watts rms at 2ohm. i want to make sure that i had this right when i go to set my gains. So i put the 50hz tone. The math is 1200X2(rmsXimdependance) then take the square root of that so i should get 48.98 so when i go to set my gains and i use the volt metter i should set it until i get to 48.98. im pretty sure thats how you do it but just wanna double check dont wanna blow my sub im goin to post pics soon the box for it is amazing custom paint by friend

Finally got my BTL 18" reconed!!! only have a hifonics 1600 watt pushing it but when i try to blast it the amp cuts off because its ran at .75 ohms. but anyways, just wonderin if anyone has a american bass 150.1 for sale.....

Ok guys I recently put in an 18" fi bl with a Sundown Sae-1200dv2 into a 2009 ford escape. The box is around 7 cubes tuned to 32 hertz. Amp is being ran at 1 ohm. All power and ground wire is being ran in 1/0 Knu. Under the hood i have only upgraded my battery negative to chassis ground power wire to 1/0 ga. Everything is properly installed wiring wise, I'm having a problem with the amp going into protection mode when playing music higher volumes. The bass boost is all the way down on the amp and the gain is set to 1/2 and everything else was set by a buddy of mine more experienced with car audio. What happens is when i have the gain on my knob turned up to about 3/4 mayb…

so mostly everyone knows about clipping, when the music gets turned up and it hits a bass note, starts to play it then quickly drops off. well i've been having this problem ever since i got my new setup and i've read the how to set the gain of an amp thread, done it. no change and i've tested the impedance of my vioce coils and they're correct, dual 1s i've tested the ohms on the output of my amp and it's reading 2 flat which is what it's supposed to be i've re wired my sub to the amp and checked my rca's but it still clips when it gets turned up. any other suggestions, please?

Alright this is probably a dumb question but im really new to car audio and want to make sure i dont mess anything up, especially when im working with so much expensive equipment. I have a sundown SAX-50.4 that i plan to power my Morel tempo6 2-way component speakers. I'm wondering what the best way to wire to my crossovers would be. Im confused because i have the 4 channels but only 2 crossovers, so would i bridge them? and how would i do that correctly so i keep the left and right signals? sorry if this doesnt make sense, im sick and on alot of medication

I have an Alpine CDA-9886. The way have mine set is I have the sub out on 15 and the gain on my amp set at a moderate level. I notice a when play it at 20 it'll be hitting good, but when I turn it up past 20, that bass stays at the same level and doesn't get louder. My friend said it's my deck and he has had simular problems with Alpine's and has me interested in a nice Pioneer deck if my deck is the problem. I'd like a 2nd opinion from you guys.

Amplifiers | 01 | 02 |ELEMENT-5 5209315ELP-5001D 1 Ohms Max Power: 5000w x 1 2 Ohm Max Power: 3000w x 1 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1400w x 1 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000w x 1 1 Ohm RMS Power: 2600w x 1 S/N Ratio: 90dB THD: 0.08% Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz-400Hz Low Pass Frequency: 35Hz-250Hz Bass Boost Control: 45Hz (0-18dB) Phase Shift: 0-180? Amplifiers ELEMENT-5 5209315ELP-5001D 1 Ohms Max Power: 5000w x 1 2 Ohm Max Power: 3000w x 1 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1400w x 1 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000w x 1 1 Ohm RMS Power: 2600w x 1 S/N Ratio: 90dB THD: 0.08% Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz-400Hz Low Pass Frequency: 35Hz-250Hz Bass Boost Control: 45Hz (0-18dB)…

My Kenwood KDC-MP342U won't save settings after i turn the head unit off. I did the install, had to hardwire with the wires, the factory harness was cut out from the previous owner, i used butt connectors. Truck in sig. Here is a video -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fRHgeJgcko