Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So i bought a Shuriken bt-120 and i just have a few basic hook up questions. I have the 0 gauge and the HO alternator ready. so should i just replace my starter battery with the shuriken? if not, how do i hook up the two? and if i do stick the shuriken in the back, i need a battery isolater correct??? thanks

I have the 9813 model head unit it has a time delay feature , easy to set by plugging in your speaker to listening position. Alpine`s web site can give you the settings for your TD . The Bass Focus is a separate feature but when adjusted it affects the time delay. I would like to use the Bass Focus but I do not understand the instructions completely. Is any one else here using this feature and how is it set?

I will be getting a sundown Sa-8 here when they ship out. I need a amp i was looking at the Rockford prime r500 ,but i dont know if its going to hit them low lows. the box will be 1.2 cuft tuned to 35hz aero port. DOES ANYONE know of a good amp for it UNDER 175 dollars?

I wanted to take a bit of your time if you dont mind cause i need some help. The only difference is your making about 19,000 more watts compared to what i have LOL sad to say im having voltage drop, sub bass cuttin off when im at idle and when driving at night it tends to cut off when im bumpin it decently loud. I have a 2001 blazer with the oem alternator 1 optima redtop battery and the big 3 upgrade using 1/0 oxygen free tsunami compotition power cable. The problom im having is that when I have the car with the engine on and I play music decently loud I notice that the voltage drops to about 12 volts. I was hoping you guys could help me out. I have one 4awg kicker power…

i know old school sound streams are good amps. i have a mint sa-164 already and it suprises me how much power it puts out. and the rubicon 1002 is supposed to put out 1000w rms. thats just what i need so is $150 for this amp an ok deal that will guarantee me 1000w rms?

So before i scurry up the money to buy a sax125.2, i would like to still be able to play my boustin acoustic pro60se 6.5's. digging through the garage i found one of those old school alpine 3522s. i've been looking through the internet and need some clarification. Its 30 watts at 4 ohms. 2channel. the pro60se are 125 watts a side at 3 ohms. so my question is, would the boustin acoustics sound better off of the 3522s than the stock speakers off of my head unit? another, more serious question. i Read on another forum that since this amp is so old school, it won't match up with my head unit. they said the amp is 1v inputs (true??) and my head unit has 4v outputs. to me, it…

Would anyone on the forum have suggestions regarding fair market value for the following US Amps USA 2000x? I recently purchased a new set of Definitive home audio speakers and am looking to possibly trade rid my old set to a friend for the US Amps USA 2000x pictured below. I've been out of the car audio loop for quite some time and appreciate your feedback. Thanks-Chris

Hy, (excuse my bad english) what do you know about Hollywood Energetic(link), it is a replacement for Stinger SPV, I also heard Hollywood is a mix of Stinger and Kinetik, but I don`t really know if this is true... So, 1. Hollywood SPV 70 vs Power Cell 2050 (300 vs 330 euro); Hollywood: 70 Ah Nom. Capacity, Cold Cranking 900 A, Pulse Cranking 1700A, Short Circuit 3500 A Power Cell: 56Ah, 2050 Peak, 3500 A (SC) 2. Hollywood SPV 100 vs Power Cell 3000 (400 vs 390 euro) Hollywood: 100 Ah Nom.Capacity, Cold Cranking 1200A, Pulse Cranking 2250A, Short Circuit 4500 A Power Cell: 95Ah, 3000 Peak, 4400 A (SC) offtopic: 80Ah stock alt,BIG3 coming soon with: us amps xt4000.1(120A…

so im going to start this off with the type of car i have its a 95 mazda millenia s this would be the start of my future big install i purchased a stinger svmb volt meter my goal was to make it look as factory as possible , and since the car does not come with a factory volt reading, if i ever sell it this can be a added feature, so this is why i am wanting to make it look factory. so 1st came figure-ing out the location in the dash so after careful thinking decided the best possible location would be in the upper left hand corner of the dash this is wer the factory alarm light is located and since i dont have a factory alarm is a empty spot and perfec…

OK I have made the decision to go with a custom dual alt set up in the Taurus...yada yada ya mount it, longer, belt, etc.. done. BUT I got to thinking about a few things I learned in school and I was wondering if anybody else on here with a dual alt set up has run a equalization connection between the two to prevent the alt that has the stronger field excitation from taking all the load and turning the other weaker one into a motor? And how do you know that both are in phase as not to double voltage when they are 180 degrees out of phase, 28 volts will fry my car. anybody with knowledge of electron physics that could help would be GREATLY appreciated

Has anybody used Braille Batteries before?

pretty new pioneer cd player keeps telling me to check the cd core it wont play cd,s or the mp3,s what does this mean and is it fixable ?????? please help

I am a queer spammer.

I recently bought a hifionics brutus amp and the blue hifionics loogo works, but the power led does not come on. The manual said if this happens theirs not enough power going through the remote wire and said to use a jumper wire and connect it to the 12V+? Im not exactly sure what to do, and i def dont wanna take my chances and screw it up. Can someone tell me what to do?

Hi, I'm sort of new to this, I searched the topic but didn't find what I was looking for so please be patient. I've been away from car audio for 7 or so years, a lot has changed and I would like to learn. I'm in the infancy of planning my stereo, I'm planning on running ~1500-2000watts RMS, the vehicle in question is a 1994 3/4 ton Suburban with a 454, 105 amp (I believe) alternator. I definitely plan to upgrade the battery and my ground and use 0 gauge wiring, what exactly do I look for in a battery and at my power levels would it be wise to run a second battery? Furthermore, how exactly does one wire a second battery? Should I upgrade my alternator as well? Or if it was…

Audioque has been working on a new project that they may be deciding to release this spring of 2010! It will either be one or 2 different 10kd models but this is what he has said- Pricing will still be fair and cheap based on current models pricing. This 10,000w amp is stated to be rated at 10,000w @1ohm in between 12-14.4v @1%THD. There will also be a 20,000w rated @18v. This monsterous amp will have 3 sets of 1/0 PWR\GND terminals. I'm sure there will be a warning about having an upgraded electrical system, lol. Pricing still hasn't been announced yet and since Digital Designs has dropped out of the "Big Ass Amp Market", that leaves only AQ and a select few other compan…

Hey I got an amp that says its minimum impedance bridged is 4 ohms, and will produce 1000w at 4 ohms bridged. Ive been running 2 dual 4 ohm subs to make the 4 ohms bridged mode, but due to power limitations I want to take out one of the subs so I can get more power to push a single sub. Since the amp does 1000w bridged at 4 ohms, would it be safe to assume that if I wired a single sub to run at 8 ohms, it would produce 500w rms bridged? Edit: by power limitations I mean I'm running my stock 80 amp alternator, no spare battery and no big 3. so my subs have to split somewhere around 400 watts, id rather just push one at 400 watts than 2 at 200.

I'm shopping for a h/o alt for my truck. It's a 2003 Ford f-150 triton V-8 4.6L. I have a ZX1500.1 at 2 ohms and a SX400.2 at 4 ohms per channel. a duralast gold 850 cca under hood 0 gauge big 3 upgrade My ZX1500.1 keeps going into protect mode from the voltage drops. I've emailed I think everyone recommend on this forum. This is the list of what I've gathered and got quoted including shipping. in no perticular order. Iraggi 220 amp $290 High Output alternators 200 amp $400 Mechman 270 amp $420 …

Could I run a single yellow top as a starting battery and run a ~1500w system off of it?

Soo just recently my rear speakers started making this werid popping noise that gets progressivley louder when you turn up the music, i hadnt done anything new to the amp before this started and it ONLY happens on the rear speakers. If it makes a difference my rear/front speakers are ran off 2 seperate RCA cables. Anyone have any idea? ive checked connections on the speaker and amp and everything looks fine. Im thinking its either bad RCA cables or the amp is going to shit...

I have an old school LP 1502IQ. It has not be modded. I'm getting ready to start putting together something for my wife's car. She wants a good sounding front stage with minimal bass from a sub. She listens to all kinds of music. Is this amp worth sending out to be modded and put on a component set of Focals or similar? Or should I just sell it and get a Sundown amp. If I go with the Sundown amp...could the 100.4 do the front components and also a sub like the SA-8 on pre-sale now? This is going in a Kia Spectra5. The specs show that it has to have a slim mount component set. Does anyone know of any components around the same quality as the Focals that are shall…

I am looking into adding a second battery and all i need to know is whether i am missing any big deals/sales right now, or if anyone has a better option for me in the $180.00 range?! Can anyone point me into the direction of a better "deal" than the hc1400 for $165.00?! eBay Thanks!

I have an old school memphis Belle 6-ch amp. Here is what I know for sure: -Channels 1-4 work fine. (4x75@4) -Channels 5 and 6 have possible the same problem, but 6 has it worse. (2x150@4 playing 80-250hz) -Channel 5 works maybe half the time at start up -Channel 6 never works on start up. -Power/ground/remote is secure and is 4awg. -Both speakers are connected properly. -Both speakers have power from the amp (I know this for a fact) -Neither speaker is blown, both have good coils and leads. -The RCAs are good and both send signal to the amp (again, I know this) -If I play a tone within range of the band pass and gradually turn up the volume to about 80% up to the volume …

Am using this amp currently with a 15" Fi Q with BP Power in a 4cu.ft box @ 30Hz and it sounds pretty good. What i need to know is, how precise is the clipping led on the bassboost knob? I set my gain the way that it was explained in the "How To" section of the forum but anytime i turn the volume to about "half" (20/40) the clipping light being to blink. The Q is wired to 2 ohms and the 2200 does 1300 watts at that rating whicn means a gain setting of 50.9 volts. To be on the safe side, i set my gain to 47.5 volts with a DMM at 3/4 volume with all my current setting. Am not sure of what am doing wrong. Any help would be great, thanks.

I'm getting ready to buy some amps for my set up and need to know if I can go active. I read a bit on active vs. passive but not sure when it comes to the HU and AMP requirements. Here is my setup HU - Pioneer Premier DEH-P690UB Front - Hybrid Clarus C61-2 (2 way) Sub - Single IDQ12v3 (DVC) The Pioneer HU xover specs are.... Crossover Network Two-Way Crossover High-Pass Crossover (HPF) 50/63/80/100/ 125/160/200Hz, 0/-6/-12dB/Oct. Subwoofer Crossover (LPF) 50/63/80/100/ 125/160/200Hz, -6/-12/-18dB/Oct. The amps I'm looking at are either DLS RA20 & RA10 or a pair of ARC KS 300.2 (sub bridged 4 ohm) RA20 (Front) - Variable high-pass filter (20-150 Hz) & Vari…