Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

The amp wiring kit is :NVX XKIT84 (100% Copper, 4-Channel True Spec 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit w/ RCA Interconnect and 65 ft Speaker Cable) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_66498_NVX-XKIT84.html This is the amp it will be used with : Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4 - 1000W 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html Just wondering if that is a good decision? It also comes with speaker wires. Edit: i just read that a 4 gauge amp wire might be better? but is it needed for this? or should this 8 gauge wire be fine? Also the speaker wire it come…

I have a guy that has a brand new in box Power Acoustik A1800DB amp, and he's wanting to trade it for my used Memphis 16-ST1000D. A 1800 watt for a 1000 watt.. I know PA isn't as quality of a brand as Memphis.. but it seems like a good amp. Any suggestions of whether or not I should follow through?

Hey everyone I found someone selling this amp on craigslist and wanted to make sure that it is a true 2000 watt amp otherwise I know I'll be getting ripped off. The amp is: 2000 watt Performance Teknique I just want to make sure it's not similar to something like a kenwood amp that doesn't give off as much watts as what it really says. Thanks!

Looking to go active in my truck and have found one of these pretty cheap. Very budget oriented system, but would prefer to keep everything active. Does anyone have any thoughts on this beast? http://www.pioneer.be/be/product_detail.js...xonomy_id=25-38 It looks like it will work for what I would use it with: rli10" and a mid-range/tweet combo tbd

Hey I'm looking at upgrading my stock alternator to a 160 amp alternator. I want to run 1500 watts rms. I have a kinetik 2000 under my hood and 1/0 big 3. Is this electrical safe to run 1500 watts? I don't want to spend too much money and Im wondering if the 160 amp alternator is enough to power 1500 watts rms. Thanks guys. Project coming soon

Amplifiers | 01 | 02 |ELEMENT-5 5209315ELP-5001D 1 Ohms Max Power: 5000w x 1 2 Ohm Max Power: 3000w x 1 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1400w x 1 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000w x 1 1 Ohm RMS Power: 2600w x 1 S/N Ratio: 90dB THD: 0.08% Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz-400Hz Low Pass Frequency: 35Hz-250Hz Bass Boost Control: 45Hz (0-18dB) Phase Shift: 0-180? Amplifiers ELEMENT-5 5209315ELP-5001D 1 Ohms Max Power: 5000w x 1 2 Ohm Max Power: 3000w x 1 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1400w x 1 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000w x 1 1 Ohm RMS Power: 2600w x 1 S/N Ratio: 90dB THD: 0.08% Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz-400Hz Low Pass Frequency: 35Hz-250Hz Bass Boost Control: 45Hz (0-18dB)…

Got a super old school 40x4 sony from a buddy of a mine and he said it worked. Spent all day running all the wires, got it hooked up and the power light comes on.. But there is something wrong, the only way I can describe it is a very loud thumping every second or so.. I have 2 sets of rca's ran and I think that could be the problem is me not having them set up right. On the back of my head unit I have the rca's hooked up to the sub amp fine. Then I have 2 pre-outs one set for the front and one set for the rear, well on the amp there is a,b,c,d and I'm not sure how this should be set up.. And the 2 sets of rca's are different idk if that makes a difference. Is this amp bl…

Here is the situation, I am looking into buying some 100wrms component speakers. I found this amp (Alpine MRH-F255) in my friends trunk and he said I could have it. After searching the internet i found out that it is running 35X4rms along with a subwoofer channel. Does anyone know how I would go about bridging this amp into a 2 channel (if its even possible). This amp is running a wire harness for its speaker outputs and so I have absolutely no idea on how I would bridge it... And if I cant bridge it, would 35 watts sound better than just the head unit to power the speakers (most likely Alpine spr-17s or sps-600c)? My second question is if i do deside to use the amp, I kn…

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW if thas an accurate rms power i think i have changed my mind about the power acoustik amp and i'll just get this one, hell of alot cheaper and more power... Unless theres an even better one for cheaper dam, were is every one i've been postin like crazy and no one is even here,

This is the Orion HCCA-D5000 Output Power at 13.8V: 1 x 1000W @ 4 ohms 1 x 1600W @ 2 ohms 1 x 2500W @ 1 ohm Dimension: 22.8

http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=84152 pioneer hu, keeps blowing fuses?

Hey guys, I've got 0 gauge wire running the length of my vehicle, but my amp accepts up to 4. I slapped on some reducers and realized they were too close for comfort, so I heat shrink tubed each post. Although they're on there very solidly, they're still sketching me out a bit. What do you guys think? Should I go for some distribution blocks or something instead? Been a pain in the rear. Running ~1500w Pics:

So seeing as how I've recently become a victim of theft I'm thinking of what I need to do before I even think about installing the new setup I've been working on.. I had the idea of wiring in a hidden switch that is connected to the lock actuator\circuit to the rear cargo area door..This way if someone does get in through other doors and they try to unlock the back to get in and remove stuff, they won't be able to (unless they find the switch..which will be hidden well.) Does this make sense\sound like a decent approach? Obviously an alarm is going in too.

i am going to be powering an Audioque 4X90 and an Audioque 2200D, was wondering if the planned electrical upgrades would be sufficient enough. Kinetik HC1800 up front and another Kinetik HC1800 in the back Knukonceptz KonFused +/- Battery Terminals for both batteries 1/0 ga welder's cable for big 3 upgrade 1/0 ga welder's cable for power/ground run from front to back 1/0 ga welder's cable for 2200D 4 ga welder's cable for 4X90 Knukonceptz KonFUSED High Current In-Line Fuse Holders ran after second battery in rear, 3x 30A fuses for the 4X90 and 3x 100A fuses for the 2200D 8 ga wire for the subs 10 ga wire for the components haven't decided if i will need a h.o. alternator…

Well I finaly got to mesuring my cars voltage, and to my suprise, my dmm read 14.23 and this is all stock electrical without the big three. I got the voltage Through some cheepo 8 gauge from my most recent system. I wanted to know if this sounds good for a 1kw system. Thaw alternator is 95 amps and the batery is a die hard. I want some opinions if you guys think I may be able to run a aq 1200d whithout any major electrical upgrades. And I am doing the big three in 1/0 cable.

hi, in my last attempt to rule out installation problem i rewired my whole system again plus i added a ground run and i still having this problem: ok, if i have my eq on my headunit set on flat and turn everything off like loud and my highpass i have to have my gains all the way up to even get 20 volts coming out of it( rated for 100 rms @ 4 ohms) and also if i have my eq set to anything but flat and the gains are not all the way down the amp goes into protection mode at 3/4 volume. and i mean all the way down. like i had one just slightly up and it goes into protection mode and also it does not seem to get as loud as it did before. now i don't have an o scope or know any…

i was wondering if i will be able to hook my batteries up like this or is the only way is to daisy chain them? - - i know this is the rite way, but just want to know if its possible to do it the other way reason for askin is limited on wire at the moment

Pulled the power from my previous car to re-use in my new car. Noticed a little bit of discoloration from where it was ran through the fender. Does this look ok to use? Untitled by riored4v, on Flickr

I'm considering the option of adding a small battery to the back to help with voltage. From searching around I seem to find one style of wiring it up. I was under the impression that I would need to a whole new run of wire from the front battery to the back. Which would result in 2 runs of power wire going front to back. This is something I don't want to do. On the other hand, like the picture below, it seems I can wire it as such: A single run of power wire from the front battery to the positive terminal of the battery in the trunk. From that positive terminal another run of wire goes to the amp. Then the rear battery and the amp are both grounded in separate locations.…

I have an '06 tahoe and I am planning on running a saz-3500d @ 1.33ohms and a sax-125.2. I have $400 to put towards an alt today, this Saturday I'll have enough to purchase: 2000-2006 Chevy Tahoe and Suburban V8 AD 270 Amp XP series alternator That seems to be the highest rated alternator I can find. Am I better off waiting and getting that or do any of you guys know of anything cheaper but just as good?

I have an Alpine CDA-9886. The way have mine set is I have the sub out on 15 and the gain on my amp set at a moderate level. I notice a when play it at 20 it'll be hitting good, but when I turn it up past 20, that bass stays at the same level and doesn't get louder. My friend said it's my deck and he has had simular problems with Alpine's and has me interested in a nice Pioneer deck if my deck is the problem. I'd like a 2nd opinion from you guys.

I've been in the market for a new head unit with a screen. I can't get a double din so i would have to get a flip out. Multiple have people have told me to not get a flip out because of my subs. They said subs will greatly damage them. Any truth to this?

ok i think i got it. check out the diagram, and tell me if its right. i heard that alot of amps will output a low freq or pop for a second when you turn the amp on, and to use a cap on each channel to not allow that freq. to get to my tweeters. the nominal load of each channel after i wire it up will be 1.5 ohm. so according to WinSD or whatever it is, it say that a 68uF 100V cap (with the 1.5 ohm load) will not let any freq under 1000ish Hz pass through that cap. is that right? i also have the Coustic XM6 (just ordered) which is 18dB per octave, and then the HPF on my amp is 12dB per octave, does that make my overall slope for the tweets 30dB? plus does the cap still add…

I would like to give a big THANKS to johnecon2001, vladd and a few others for talking me into experiencing the wonderful world of Time Alignment. I recently purchased an Alpine 9887 and can not believe the difference in the imagining that TA makes. How did I ever get along without? Thanks again guys this is by far the coolest/greatest thing since Sliced Bread.

Is USAcoustics Still Around Just wondering as cant find any where that sell them on the net and they haven't updated their site since 2004. http://www.usacoustics.com/