Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

what did ups just bring...uh ohh is it a.... new alt? from excessive amperage 200a large case one i hope no one that works for UPS needed an alt, i wonder if ths box has an alt in it? packaging was good look at it :naughty: another pic of side back side will install sometime soon, maybe tonight or tomorrow or sunday when ever

Not sure if anyone is really interested, but I got this today. It was a service drop off, we repaired the RCA inputs and the customer never came back. So it's going home with me. I've got some connections who can do a little something for me so we're going to cut a plexiglass sheet for the front and cut outs for the display and the fans, probably going to upgrade the fans and get the whole thing powdercoated.

OK I got an LED rocker switch from O'reillys to turn h/u on and off on the powerwheels like an ignition. If I hook up the wire from my fuse block to the hot side and the load wire to either other post I get the led but no h/u. If I hook up all 3 posts (pos,load,neg) I blow a fuse as soon as I flip the switch. I don't know if running the red and yellow wire together causes to much draw, or if the ground isnt really a ground? But I'm confused and slightly annoyed...

I am doing the big 3 and i was wondering where the posotive post would be on my stock alternator? I have a 2010 malibu.

Hi all Ok this is the problem On the big three the alternator power.... It says to upgrade that... now this is the issue i discovered tracking down my voltage drop... My alternator wire goes from the alt to a fuse box (factory) then from the fuse box to the front battery... now my rear battery taps off the front battery.... all 0/1 guage wire... I changed the wire from the alt to the fuse box to 0/1 So i need to change the fuse box to the bat now to 0/1 OR is just going straight from the alt to the rear battery an option (fused with 200 amps of course)

I am going with a some what cheap system. I would like to locate the best bang for the buck amp to power these subs. www.sounddomain.com/sku/ABNAW1251T I do not understan what to look for when looking for an amp. thanks for any help

would anyone know how much more on average you can increase the output of a stock alternator just by doing a rewind. i added a second battery which is not much. the second battery is my old battery that is a stock from upfront in the engine bay. i have the 130amp alternator from a 2003 highlander, just need to get to 200A output but i know each alternator is different and will not be able to get much more out of it. thanks to all that can help me

Im completely new to all of this..but I was wanting to put 2 12" Fi SSDs in a 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer. But I don't know what options to get and what amp. I have about $600 to work with and still have to buy the subs, any help would be very appreciated

Anyone here ever tried to bypass, defeat, or remove the on-board x-over on an amp(class D specifically). My head unit can take care of this function. It would be nice to have up front control.

Anyone used this charger? http://www.impactbattery.com/brands/japlar-schauer/12-volt/schauer-12-volt-battery-charger-jac1212.html is under 100$ looks pretty promising. cant find any reviews online though.

Well, my friend has recently been having issues with his electrical system. He currently has a red top and yellow top in the back. He reads around 14 volts up front but his battery in the rear (not isolated) reads at 12.5 volts?! The battery in the front and rear both read at 12.5 with car off. Any clue what could be causing this issue?

US Amps XT-1600.2 I was looking at that amp on here, and thinking about maybe getting it. It looks good to push my 7515. Or should I consider something else? I'm just begining to start shopping.

Hi everyone got a quick question.which year did this cadence z7000 amp come out at. I remember buying one of these 3 years ago off ebay and end up getting my car broken into and lost the amp but I could never figure out which year they made this amp in the picture.

I was always told to go for the highest number, but i cant tell any difference in amps with high numbers verses those with low numbers?

So, does anybody have any of these. It looks like I am still getting 2, but I need 2 more for an extrreme car we are building....worst thing is, we need the car to compete at the USACi Fresno show on the 2nd YIKES! We have cash & will travel to get these bad doggers, so help a brother out!

I ordered 1 guage wire and it should be in soon. I have 8guage running to my 2channel now that was drilled through my firewall. Is there any other ways to get such a large wire through? Id rather not put that big of a hole in my vehicle. What are my options? As always all help is very much appreciated

Hi, I'm getting a Mach5 MAW15(for now), and was wondering which amp you would buy, based on price/quality? I don't want to go more than $400. Precision Power PC2150RB(used, but almost new) = $260 Zapco REF500.1(new) = $380 US Amps Merlin MD22(new) = $180 US Amps Xterminator XT800.2(new) = $125 Any other recommendations are appreciated . Thanks for the input. BTW, sorry if you ask a question right away and I don't respond. I'm going to bed right now(stupid graveyards).

ok, I am helping Brian look for an amplifer, he has on order 2 RL-p 12 D2's from the group buy, and now he is in need of an amp, so we need a final load of 2 ohms mono with about 600 to 1200 watts to push the subs, he is not trying to win any tropies just have damn good sound.. he is putting this all into a 2k4 Explorer in the cargo compartment which sits below the floor of the rear cargo area, after some quick measurements and no moddifications he has about 16" wide max, 1' deep, 5" thick to work with for the amplifer to sit down in.. so I thought that a few options would be: - the MTX 801D, good amp, great price, low on features, solid performer when pure power is the …

Ok so Im kinda stepping up a little bit on the whole sub scene and I kinda got over my head a little bit. I thought I would look to you guys for some guidance. I have bought 2 15" Orion HCCA's. I bought the dual 4 ohm version thinking Id just run 1 big amp. Well my noobness has bit me in the ass. I need a large amp as wasnt really thinking of the amp draw that this would present. So if I can get any suggestions on amp/batteries/alt that I may need I would owe a favor for sure. I know you guys get these questions all the time and I didnt want to be "this" guy but I really have no other choice. I want to learn this instead of just paying some shop to do it for me. …

Is MA Audio any good? I think they are but haven't heard any myself. Thanks a lot.

As the title states im looking for a new digital multimeter for a few reasons. I was looking on amazon and i see they have them ranging anywhere from $5 all the way to $200. I dont really know the difference one would have over another but im willing to spend anywhere from $10-$25 as its just for a few purposes here and there. If anyone has any options on a good decent DMM feel free to post them here as it may also help people in the future to decide which ones to get. Thanks in advance

so say if someone was to buy 8 sa-8's and wants to wire them to 1 ohm... would it be easier to take 4, 4 0hm dvc subs, wire them to 2 ohms, and do the same with the other 4, then wire those positives and negatives to the positives and negatives on the amp? or is there an easier way of doing it? i may not even go with 8 sa-8's but if i do i want to understand how to wire up that many subs, because the most ive ever wired up is 2.

i bought 2 group 31 batteries for my truck last year, they are now dead to the point that they can not start my truck in teh cold. i do not have lots of money to spend so i am looking for advice on whawt the best batteries are with out spending 700 on stingers. I have a cummins turbo deisel that requires about 220A for 30 seconds in cold weather to heat the air intake, it pulls 750-950A from the starter for about 15 seconds of cranking when cold. i have 1500W of amps for mids/highs and a 2500.1 for my sub. my alt can handle them just fine while running. what 2 batteries should i get? should i go agm for starting or stick wtih liquid acid?

Ever sinced I changed my stock battery to a XS D1200, after a few days of the initial installation, been noticing the car is starting to take a hair longer to start... While working on the car today, i noticed right after i got done driving it.. it was reading 12.6v.. that's pretty low from just turning the car off. So i clamped the battery cable, reading 0.4A draw... hmmm... Pulling fuses under the hood and came up with this- AM2 fuse - (according to forums, controls Starter, fuel injectors, etc....) this fuse is pulling 0.15A DCC fuse - I do not know what this is but it is said dealers pull this fuse to prevent battery discharge if car is left unnattended for days. Thi…

I am somewhat new at this and feel I need to run more batteries, this was also recommended by a stereo shop near where I live however they would charge an arm and a leg to do the job. I was wondering on how to do this, I was thinking parallel, but I was wondering how both batteries keep charged....... Thank you Jonathan Thompson