Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So I'm pretty sure I'm getting knukonceptz wiring for my set-up. my set-up: 2 fi q12's fully loaded (subs) Fi: 2 sets of alpine spr-13s components (speakers- 4 total) Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. 1 audioque 2200d (amp for sub) Audioque: Amps: AQ2200D 1 Alpine PDX-4. 100 (amp for speakers) Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. So, for the Audioque amp i'm thinking about getting the Kolossus Flex 0 Gauge Dual Amp Power Kit ( 0 GAUGE DUAL AMP POWER KIT ) And for the Alpine amp I'm thinking about getting the Complete 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit ( 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit ) Does this Installation Kit include enough speaker wire for 4 speake…

I am using two of these from 2003 or 04. They are the silver heat sink with the blue light up logo. Here is my set up, I have 1 ea. dual 1 ohm woofers wired to 2 ohm on each amp. I installed the 2 15" SSA xcons in the enclosure that Quentin built for me and I have spent most of the afternoon trying to tune this. I honestly have been very dissappointed as my output has been very modest for most of the day, but I switched the phase switch to 180 on one amp and WOW it woke up big time. So, I did the same thing on the other amp and my stuff is banging really hard now. This is more like it. My question is, why is this making such a BIG difference? And, do I risk damaging my xc…

Hi Guys, A friend of mine needs to finish the big3 in his car. He's wondering how to put the wire between alt to batt. From stock, there is a wire coming from the + of the alternator, going to the starter(démareur in French !) And this same wire goes to the + batt after the starter. So, the question is : can we just put a wire between the alt and the batt without hooking it to the starter ? Or do we have to follow the stock wiring ? Waiting for you, all the experts, please!!!

Why do people run two runs of 0 gauge negative when they do runs of positive can't I just ground it in the back off my second battery

Alright well I added an amp to my car for testing. I unplugged the battery and had to plug it back in and when I tried to start it, it had troubles starting because of the disconnectoin of the battery. So When I went to start it I also tried to put a cd in. The cd was just sitting half way in so while I tried to start it again and just pushed the cd in. The cd player will not read it, and it cannot eject it becuase it doesn't see it as it's in there. It is a 2002 ford explorer, and it is the regular (not 6 disc) cd changer. I read to either grab it with plyers (can't find needle nose small enough) or take it out. I don't know how to take it out either so can someone help!

So to get any decent volume out of my new sub, i have to have the gain on my new amp really high.....too high and the bass boost up pretty far too. I know the RCAs arent the best, and its a sony HU.....but still, any ideas?

hey... i was wondering... if you paint an amp, will it hinder the cooling process of the heatsink? i wanna paint a Profile CA400 black to match the dual EU box.

I am wanting to upgrade my subwoofer from a my current sub to a single sundown x-15. I have a Power Acoustik crypt 1200w 4 channel amp hooked up to 2 Memphis m-class 6x9s and i was wondering if the amp could handle the new sub or if i would have to buy a new amp to power the sub and if i do have to buy a new one what amp would work well. thanks

Is it ok to run a hc1800 kinetic with a xs power 3000

what wire should i look into? im not really sure how to ask all these questions so lemme know if i get confusing. im pretty sure im running 1/0 gauge wire from my battery to my amp. (my amp is a sundown sae 1200 v2) .....let alone what fuse to run?? now what size and kind of wire to run from my amp to my sub? (sub is a 10" fi bl) ALSO what RCAs to run??? there are SOOO many brands and so many options. (i have an alpine ida x001 headunit if that helps too) i also am not sure how much wire i need for anything yet. just curious what i should look into. i plan on measuring out how much i need tomorrow. i know there are a lot of questions and i prob said something confusin…

This is how my boat is wired as of now. 2 ga. from the alt (pos) and the neg. (don't know where it is grounded but most likely the engine somehwere). These are connected to the starting battery. Then I have additional 2ga cables running in series to the aftermarket stereo battery (a deka intimidator), off of this is where my 4 ga. amp wires run (pos and neg in the same fashion). My question has to do with the grounding. I would guess that it would be better to ground my aftermarket battery directly to some big ass piece of metal (but alas only fiberglass around) and the same goes for my amps. It seems that all the ground is running all the way back to the starting batte…

Hey All, I was just wondering what electrical necessities I would need. I have a 99 Honda Accord Sedan. Right now I have stock alt, Kinetik HC1800 up front and 0/1 guage wiring for my sundown 100.4. That is all currently hooked up. I was planning on hooking up my next amplifier which would be the Sundown 1500d with either a 12 or 15 FI BL. I think I am leaning towards a 12 because of space issues in the trunk. Anyways what other electrical upgrades do I need? Would I need a second battery in the rear? Would i need a new high output alternator? Or is this even necessary? Thanks for all the help

alright so about a couple weeks ago i installed an alpine cda 105 unit for my expedition and i realized i have a bit of alternator whine. i grounded all of my wires quite well and even double checked the harness. everything is straight but at one point the whine stopped then came back, im not sure what to do. also, i can hear noise from my headunit menu selection sometimes, for example if i switch the inputs or select certain options it makes a click noise through the sub, is this a ground problem all together, or maybe faulty rcas? simple advice would be sweet.. thanks, john.

Anyone around Dayton OH know how to change the Big 3 on a car? I do not see how to do it, but maybe someone who knows what they are doing could help me. PM me if you can! There is a Fuse box right off the Positive Terminal that throws me off right away. Then the wire to the Alternator seems to be wired under a plastic cover around the engine. I assume if I do the big 3, all that gets removed from the car? Here are two pics of the Fuse box I am speaking of... http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b...4/Battery01.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b...4/Battery02.jpg And here is a Pic of the Alternator, where it apears the power wire goes up inton that hard plastic cover …

I ordered all my wiring, blocks, fuses from Knukonceptz. Great prices, quality products and good communication. Tell him Pete from CEG recommended him to you - might not get you anywhere, but who knows - .

So I'm getting ready to do my wiring and I came across: http://www.remybattery.com/Departments/Cable--Accessories/Connectors--Lugs-and-Terminals/Compression-Connectors.aspx the battery terminals look pretty cool... Any thoughts on compression terminals? Pretty secure?

would running dbl power and ground wire to my aq3500 help me in anyway or is this just a waste of money? I saw someone else do this to his aq3500 and also I see some other amps already have the dual inputs. How about dbl up on power and ground on your batteries bank in the back does this help any? I'm just tring to get the max out of my aq3500 before I decide to upgrade or not.

Can someone tell me how you reset a Sundown SAE-1000W amp?

do you think the US AMPS xt4000d is a good amp for a fully loaded 1 ohm 18 FI bl?

What's everyones thoughts/opinions on bass knobs? I'm using my factory HU and am in the market for a new sub amp, and was wondering if I should be looking for one that has a bass knob.

Anyone here ever pair an old Xtant 121m with a DCON? I've got this setup, and I know I can go much louder if I like, but then the bass overtakes everything else. Then again, my door speakers are whatever crap Nissan puts in their stock Rogues, and are probably not strong enough to properly pair with the sub. It just feels like my old MTX 4500 and the MTX monoblock hit harder. Not more accurately, just harder. Perhaps it is also the car's fault. I drove a 2003 RAV4 (much smaller than current RAV4s), and now I drive a Rogue, which is bigger than my RAV. The box is the same ... perhaps SLIGHTLY too big for the optimal volume required, but not by much. I like to rambl…

Alright.. i ran into these things they call line drivers.. lol.. seem's pretty simple. rca's in then rca's out and bam.. higher voltage.. is it as straight forward as that? is there anything to watch out for? i see several brands including pheonix gold, rockford, hifonics and audiocontrol.. Do you guys use them? if so what are your thoughts? Just trying to get an idea of these things from all of you before i go out and buy one. cause so far its got my attention... thanks for any info you guys have.

I see all these alts out their that are like 180, 200, 220amps But the idle is only 110-125 What the heck, so basiclly if i'm sittin thier at the light my car will still dim

Hello there! I have been looking for a new head unit for over a year now. Im picky tho. I want a good one (of course) double-din,am/fm, cd, usb all that stuff. Rear rca's and all, I want to be able to change the light colors. Ive spent a good bit of money matching all my interior lights and i dont want the head unit to be different. I also want a remote. Ive had good experiences with clarion in the past, but the guy at the local audio store says clarions quality has gone down a lot. Ive been looking at some jvc's, but im not sure there quality is any better now then it was a few years ago. Im trying to stay in the $200 range. Any suggestions? P.S. I dont care for flip out…

If I wanted to run say.. 3k at 1ohm would a 170amp alt and a yellow top in the back be sufficient? With the stock battery up front and the big 3 done obviously.