Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

What size are the screws that hold the mounting bracket on the amp?

what did ups just bring...uh ohh is it a.... new alt? from excessive amperage 200a large case one i hope no one that works for UPS needed an alt, i wonder if ths box has an alt in it? packaging was good look at it :naughty: another pic of side back side will install sometime soon, maybe tonight or tomorrow or sunday when ever

im doing the big 3 with 2 gage but should i ren the - from the batt to stock ground or to a better spot?

i unplugged my sub yesterday and noticed that running my mids/high amps cause my lights to dimm very slightly when bass hits. when an amp draws power it is producing a spike draw on the entire vehicles system wich it is not designed for as there really is nothing else on a car that will pull such a bust draw outside of cranking. how common is it to see a slight dimming of lights on audio installs? i ask because to me it seems that with 2 large batteries and a HO alt i would expect not to see any dimming regardless of volume level. now the wiring is good and i am certain that all my grounds/contacts are properly terminated. i am looking more into this as I am planing to …

Ok so almost 6 months ago I loaned my car to a friend and when I got it back my subwoofer was not playing. I started a thread on here asking about how to fix it and what not and I never really came to a conclusive answer. I just got a Sundown SAZ-1000D and plugged it in and went to check the output voltage of the amp and even at high volume with the gain pretty high the highest I get is 3.x AC volts. I am getting power to the amp and it turns on without the protect light or anything I checked the DC voltage at the amp, its in order. Now the one place that does not seem to be right are the RCAs. No matter what I do I can't get them to register ANY voltage no matter how lou…

the minimum i would want voltage to drop is 14.5! i am planning on getting a 250a alternator and 3 of these Batteries my amp is going to be a Crunch GP3000D-Pro running 4 18"Fi SSD stock! any info would be appreciated thanks in advance

Ok, SOOOO, I'm reallllly baffled and just plain pissed off. Last night i decided to cable tie ALL of my wires, put plastic tuding around all of them, and tie them back. (kinda clean up my wires/install real good before I make my amplifier rack.) So, that's what i was doing last night. Not installing anything...I only unhooked my subwoofer amp...nothing else, i didn't even take apart my dash or anything. That's the pre-face, here's what happened. I was hooking my subwoofer amplifier back up, (don't THINK it had anything to do with this...but it happened at the same time i was hooking the sub amp up.) Keep in mind my car key is IN MY POCKET no where near the ignition and m…

Alright well does it matter what voice coil gets wired first? I got a ssd15 and it has 3 out of 4 stickers were black... you know the stickers that say pos or neg... but i need to wire my dual 2 to 1 ohm and wanted to make sure it didnt matter what terminal was first

I just installed my new HU, it's a Pioneer DEH-P690UB (not the best in the world, but it gets the job done). It has a usb connection to hook up your iPod and other usb mass storage devices. My question is what brand/make of HDD works? I've already tried a few and they are a no go. Reason is I think they are requiring more juice then the usb cable can provide. So if anyone can point me in the right direction and stop me from wasting more time and money trying out different usb hard drives I'd really appreciate it.

This company gets crazy good reviews and can charge a multitude of battery types.. Not only that but a 5yr warranty on their product.. Insane in the membrane!! Well I picked up a CTEK Multi US 3300 since I was told at Pepboys my aux battery was "dead" and "failled" their test... Problem I have with it is Kinetik batteries are not rated in CCA so I cannot really go by their testing. Emailed Kinetik and got a response in about an hour to get a battery charger and let it sit for 2-5 days depending on how low the battery was since it's last charge. They also told me if I wanted to ensure most batteries "coming back to life" I should go for the 7000 but I don't think I need to…

is anyone on here using them? I was looking through their website and found a diagram that shows pretty much exactly what I will be running so I figured I would just copy what they suggest. here's a picture of the diagram can someone fill me in on the pros/cons to running something like that? I know 1 pro would be a much greater tuning capability but not sure on the cons any input/advice is helpful edit: heres a link for the 6xs http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5251/18487/Car-Audio-Electronic-Crossovers/6XS-6-Channel-Electronic-Crossover.html and the link for the crossover http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5250/14149/In--Dash-Car-Audio-Processors/Three1-In--Dash-Car-Audio-E…

Ok, I'm sort of a newb at the whole gain setting thing, I just got a Sundown SAZ-1500D from Chris at Db-R and I was setting it with the volt meter, 2 ohm load, 800 watts rms, should be about 40 volts. I tuned it there, with the bass boost all the way off, bass knob up to max. Hooked up the speakers, and It wasnt very loud. My Lanzar 230 was louder. So I did it by ear, listening for any clipping, and I started to barely hear any distortion so I backed off till it was a good clean sound. I retested with the voltmeter and it was at 55 volts. I'm running 2 Memphis M-Class 10's in a Memphis prefab ported box until I can get some 12's. Is it ok to run with the volts this high i…

Hello there! I have been looking for a new head unit for over a year now. Im picky tho. I want a good one (of course) double-din,am/fm, cd, usb all that stuff. Rear rca's and all, I want to be able to change the light colors. Ive spent a good bit of money matching all my interior lights and i dont want the head unit to be different. I also want a remote. Ive had good experiences with clarion in the past, but the guy at the local audio store says clarions quality has gone down a lot. Ive been looking at some jvc's, but im not sure there quality is any better now then it was a few years ago. Im trying to stay in the $200 range. Any suggestions? P.S. I dont care for flip out…

I have 2 t2500-1bdcp's that I would like to strap together to run 1 smd 15" subwoofer. I haven't bought the sub yet because I don't know how to wire it to 1 ohm per amp. if anyone could tell me how to strap these amps together and wire the sub that would great.

amplifiers like the ZR240? Mine has one for bass, but i'd like to find some others that I might possibly have a use for. Can you run the ZR240 without anything plugged into that port? Thanks in advance, Ed

What would the best electrical setup for a 2000d? I got a 1800 upfront and a 1400 in the back. Big 3 done with 0awg, 0awg to the amp and a stock 90 amp alternator. Would I be able to use the amp at its full potential? Any recommendations?

Hi Guys, Any recommended Head Unit for SPL application, I'm currently using Alpine 9887 and the buttons fades easily. So I'm leaning towards pioneer for my next H.U. I know DEX-P99RS is the best bet but I can't afford it right now. Any suggestion? My budget is $600. Thanks

Have just recently purchased from CF a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X494 Receiver, 2 prs of Boston Acoustics S85 6x8 2 Way Speakers for my front and rear doors, and a SoundOrdnance M1350 Amp for my subwoofer. The subwoofer I have is an Image DynamicsID10D4 v.3 10in subwoofer with the following specifications: SMS Power handling: 50 - 400 Watts DC Resistance (Re) .95 / 3.8 ohm Resonant Frequency (Fs) 22.70Hz Electrical "Q" (Qes) .385 Mechanical "Q" (Qms) 4.14 Total "Q" (Qts) .352 Equivalent Volume (Vas) 2.75 ft3 One Way Linear (Xmax) 17.0 mm Cone Area (Sd) 350 cm2 Sensitivity (Spl) 86.5db Speaker Displacement .05 ft3 Dual 4 Ohm Here are the specifications for the Amp: m…

I'm in the market for a new HU(since the mazda 6 kit is almost out). Here are my requirements: - at least 4 volt pre-outs, including one for sub - crossover for sub/mid/hi - red illuminated buttons or at least majority red illumination - would like it to be a silver color to match my dash but not necessary - mp3 capability I'm trying to gauge my options right now, and no price limit.

I just got and installed my alt from DC. First of all before w/ my stock alt I would idle at 13.8 and drop down to 12.4 at the most So I figured the h.o. would help with that problem, I talked to Rob from DC, when I first bought the alt and he told me it would be a good idea to get a module, so I would charge at higher volts. Since I didn't have the money at the time. I didn't get it yet. But anyways, I put the alt in; and I immediatly notice that I was idling really low. I checked it with Dmm and I was infact idling around 12.8. Now I know it would PROBABLY help if I add the module, but since I was already idling at 13.8, shouldn't adding the H.o. still keep me around t…

Hy, (excuse my bad english) what do you know about Hollywood Energetic(link), it is a replacement for Stinger SPV, I also heard Hollywood is a mix of Stinger and Kinetik, but I don`t really know if this is true... So, 1. Hollywood SPV 70 vs Power Cell 2050 (300 vs 330 euro); Hollywood: 70 Ah Nom. Capacity, Cold Cranking 900 A, Pulse Cranking 1700A, Short Circuit 3500 A Power Cell: 56Ah, 2050 Peak, 3500 A (SC) 2. Hollywood SPV 100 vs Power Cell 3000 (400 vs 390 euro) Hollywood: 100 Ah Nom.Capacity, Cold Cranking 1200A, Pulse Cranking 2250A, Short Circuit 4500 A Power Cell: 95Ah, 3000 Peak, 4400 A (SC) offtopic: 80Ah stock alt,BIG3 coming soon with: us amps xt4000.1(120A…

I'm in the process of doing the big 3 in my '99 Grand Am; problem is, I only have 2 ring terminals to work with right now. Question: If I do the run from my alt to the battery with 1/0 and leave the grounds with the OEM cables until the rest of my terminals come in, will that cause any issues? The current flow to my battery will be improved, but the grounds from the battery to chassis, and engine to chassis will be the same as before. Will this be ok, or should I just wait til I get all my terminals in to do the entire upgrade at once? Thanks in advance

Recently purchsed a Crossfire vr1000d, hooked it up today and it turns on then about 10 seconds later makes a click sound then switches to protect and right back to power. And does this non stop, Does this mean the amp i have bought is blown? It even does it with just the power, grnd, and remote wire hooked up. To my understanding if it was blown it'd be a solid into protect

What is this Big 3 upgrade i keep hearing about? Thanks

just wondering, if there is any mainstream manufactured gadget for converging multiple 1/0 into a single 1/0 input like that found on the stesom amps. i'm looking for maximum flow/least resistance for an instantaneous dump of power for a single burp. this'll be a single 12 on 2 stetsom 7k e's in a crx. i know others have custom cnc's things, or buss bar type feeders, but just seeing if i can get away with not fabricating something.