Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So I was browsing eBay for an amp to power my gf's Dcon coming in within the next day or two, and I came across this... LANZAR 800 W 2 Channel High Power MOSFET Amp VCT2010 Now before I'm flamed for even mentioning lanzar on SSA, realize that this is for my gf's car, not anything major. Just some bass on a budget.. (Good budget 10" sub) My question: Would this be something optimal for my situation? It says it's 2 ohm bridgeable, @ 800 watts, so in reality, about 400-500 watts. The sub is a D4. I could wire in parellel into a 2ohm load and bridge to this amp and have it powered about right for it's RMS rating. For the price, I didn't think this could be that bad.. especia…

has anyone had expeirience with these or the 4000 what are the + and- to them? Are they power hungery compaired to other amps in the same power class? Thanks MC

I was trying to decide on an amp. I was looking at the Lanzar Opti 6000D. Can anybody let me know if they have had an experience or know about it. I will be using it for 8 15's in a ported enclosure from 16-20 cubes tuned at 25 to 28hz. I also plan on using lanzar's line driver.

has any 1 ever used Lanzar's optidrive series amplifers? if so, what are the some helpful reviews on it. is it a good amp with low THD does this amp put out what its ratted? can you let me know if it is a overall good amp for subs will this thing get low and still stay warm?

Im thinking getting one of these amps. Has anyone had experience with this series?

I know Lanzar is nothing close to sundown audio..... and I would definitely love to buy a 100.4 to add to my small collection, but this is going into an old mud riding truck.... and will likely be in less than optimal environments. Basically.... don't want to spend a ton of money to see my sundown amp go up in smoke. I've only seen 1 lanzar amp in person, powering 2 kicker comps. It ran them fairly well and therefore I'm considering this http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=208112791&listingid=24319010. Please confirm my suspicions by telling me that they are definitely over rated and that it will at least put out 100 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms. I will have to purchase…

I've been doin a little research so stop me if i'm wrong. I need an EQ, large band, so that when i setup my amps, i can get the amplitude on as many frequencies as possible to their max potential without clipping because the output power on all frequencies is not the same... Ok, so, i found out that graphic vs parametric... parametric eq is better for this because of it's larger bandwidth. So, this is the only thing i have came up with, let me know what u think if it'll work for me or anything else you can think of- Audiocontrol DQS - it has 30band but do not know if it's graphic or parametric... Audiocontrol DQXS - it has, hehe, 142! I dont think it matters what type …

looking for some comp amps that do 5-7kw @1ohm can only be a single amp not strapped amps. used for usaci 601 to 1800 class so the 4 ohm output needs to be 1800 or less. that or an amp with 4ohm under 600w capable of .5 ohm power around 4k thanks for the help

So I got one of these off ebay and unlike the stinger one it only has 2 wires. And if I was to hook it up straight to power it would be on all the time. Was thinking of either running it off the ignition wire that triggers the head unit to turn on or running it off a switch so I could turn it off. Or do you guys think another way would be better.

So my amprack is going to have 3 plexi windows. On the left and right are 2 big windows that show my amps, each with a blue cold cathode to provide lighting. Now in the middle, I'm going to have this smaller piece (big thanks to Mike aka azbass): I want to light up this piece with a different color using an LED. Now, I need yall's opinion/help. a. Should I even put an LED in this piece? b. If so, what exactly do I need to do? - how do I go about installing it? (plexi is 1/4" btw) - what power source should I use? - do I need to buy anything other than the LED like a resistor or anything? c. Should I go with a white, purple/UV LED, or any other color? I kinda don't …

So thanksgiving is coming soon which means no school for us who are still in it! Which for me means being bored out of my mind. I also just so happen to have 500 blue LED's handy. Out of all the things i could do with them, i decided to see what it would be like to put a bunch of them in the back of my explorer! For getting power to them, i was thinking about wiring them up in groups of series and then connecting them directly to the speaker wire input on the SAZ-3000d. Since i don't know nearly enough about that, i was curious as to whether that's a good idea or not (whether it will break something or not!). So the idea is that when the bass is really loud, the amp produ…

hi, i am positive that it is my head-unit causing this (it is a alpine 9887) but i am trying to see what else it could be. ok for starters i have my gains set on the my sax100.4 At volume 27 is the max (out of 35 i think) and sometimes when i have the volume at only 15 the drivers mid range will get very notice able louder and i will use the balance and the left speaker is barely playing and the left is acting like it is receiving double the signal. now i have the sax 100.4 running active and i am only using the high on the 9887 to feed the sax100.4 channels 1 &2 and then using the output to feed 3 &4. So if it was the amp couldn't one side play fine and t…

Hello all, My name is Dave Edwards, I'm staioned in Grand Forks AFB, North Dakota, I WAS in the Air Force, I just finished a 5 year tour. I am so damn close to my BSEE degree I can smell it---4 years in work. I have been into car audio for about 12 years, I rebuilt my first amp when I was 13, now I build amps,subwoofers,crossovers, pretty much anything I need. I worked as a System Designer/Consultant for Ampmanaudio.com before it went under. I try to learn as much as I can on the subject and I hope to pass my knowledge onto you.

Ok so I'm staring to piece together and figure out what I need for my electrical pieces.. I will have a second battery in the rear. running two amps. Sub amp -T1500-1bdCP Front Stage amp is undecided at the moment. I have 1/0 Gauge OFC running to the back. probably ~15ft run. My plan is. Battery up front + (in line fuse)>>>>> (inline fuse) Battery Rear Positive + Ground up front will be left alone. Ground in the rear will be placed in the factory installed Ground fused to the body in the trunk. For the amps.... Running from rear battery ----- Short zero gauge OFC to a fused distribution block >>>>From the fused …

so as you may know according to my sig, as i wait for 1/0 gauge in the mail, my amp frequently goes into protect mode b/ my sh*tty "4 gauge" wire lacks the capacity to deliver consistent power. if the amp goes into protect too many times, is it toast? it seems to be sounding a little funny lately... like it lacks the output it once had......

Im debating whether I should buy a Leviathan or a 100.4 I currently have Bravox CS60CF, and will have 8" midbass in the door in the future. At first I was going to use a 100.4 for the mids/highs (Bravox CS60CF) and the 125.2 for the midbass. But then I found out about the leviathan which does 150rms and has 6 channels. I could use 4 of them for the Bravox, and the other 2 channels share them for the 2 midbass drivers (but then it would be 75rms per midbass driver). Disadvantages are single vs double amps (space) and extra power/ground runs of wire. And using only 2 channels for the Bravox wouldnt work because that would mean back to passive I cant seem to find advantages …

I'm trying to find info about power wire / fuse for this amp but coming up short on answers. I'm not planning on bridging the amp so all channels stereo. The car alt is 110 with big three in 4g. Being that this amp is extremely effiecient will my stock alt / batt be enough? As for fuses I'm at a complete loss as this amp does not come with any internal fusing. My goal is obviously run an inline and also have a fused distro block, even tho this will be the only amp. Probably a stupid question but I just want to properly have this amp protected. Im not partial to either 4g or 1g for the power so either would be fine.

has anyone ever used them I have 2 of them that rest at 13v and are 210ah a piece just wondering

Okay this is the second one I'm posting of this the update is I replaced the 8ga to 4ga and I'm still getting light dimming so far I replaced the alternator from a 2003 highlander and did the big three so I'm guessing the battery is left to replace or do i have anything else to fix before replacing the battery

Ok, I just got in my Fi Q 15. I have it running 1000rms at 1 ohm on a Sundown 1500D on stock electrical. I am getting a bit of dimming. I have a run of 1/0 wire with a 1/0 battery to chassis ground. I am thinking of going pickup a Kinetik HC600 or HC800 and put it in the back since, I still have to hookup my JL 300/4 back there. Would this take a bit of strain of my front battery? I REALLY dont want to have to change my alt. Factory amperage on my Tacoma is 80 amp.

Hi Everyone I Am Currently Running My FI 15'' BTL In My Room Running On A Home Audio Plate Amp Thats Pushing Around 250 Watts. I Wanted To Put Lighting In The Box So Whenever The Bass Hit The Light Went With It. However I Dont Know How To Wire Any Lights Seeing How Most Lights Are 12 Volt. Does Anyone Know How I Wire Them ? The Plate Amp Is Plugged Into The Wall Which Is 120 Volts. Thank You ~ Kent ~ P.S. Here Are Some Pics Of The Sub, Plate Amp And Light Thanx

Have you guys ever used or heard anyone using this amp , I got a good deal on one on ebay . but I cant find many reviews, I heard lightning audio is owned by rockford fosgate. its rated at 600 x 1 @ 4Ω 1000 x 1 @ 2Ω 1500 x 1 @ 1Ω and the fuse are 2x70a here is some internal pics (not mine)

ok well i had a 130 amp high output alternator in my car, but it would whine every time i turn the car on for about 5 mins on n off depending on the electrical drain. so i reinstall the stock alternator, ( if someone knows what a stock 96 accord ex 2.2L alternator amp rating is tell me) there is no whine now which means there is no straining at idle. i no that the high ouput alternator i got is 130 amps at 1200 rpm, n prolly lower than stock at idle, but now with the stock alternator in, the lights dim bad, i can definitely tell. before with the High output alternator i didnt see much of my lights dimming. i do have a 1 farah cap in the trunk. now i was wondering because …

Anyway all i have right now is a Soundstream XTA600.2 600 Watts RMS and my Oz Audio Matrix Elite 15 and its dimming even with that. I have been looking around and i cant find that many alternators for my car i had been recommended to call ohiogen to ask? my lights have been dimming when idling especially when the air is on at the same time, i have a 1995 dodge stealth and they alternators are weak on them and i believe i even have the upgraded 140 amp ......it could be the 110 amp thought im not sure, but i was told that i couldn't go past a 140 amp that it probably cant be wound more than that.... I saw this by powerbastards http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?pro…

I have a 99 Siverado LT 5.3. I upgraded big 3, 220 amp alternator, 2 extra kinetik 1800's, running 0 ga wire. I only have a rockford T10001bd,pushing 2 T110's, and a rockford T600-4 running MB quarts 5.25 in kick panel and 6.5 mid bass in doors. Lights still dim when bass hits going down the road. I don't know what else to upgrade to get it to stop. All grounds seem to be good. I was looking to upgrade, that's the reason for 2 kinetiks, but if lights dim with what I have it will go black if I upgrade. Any help on what could be going on. Thanks