Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Old school yumminess

so im buying this amp an i was gonna buy a 0-scope to set my amp gains. but since there's a clip light will that allow me to set the gains as high as they'll go without sendin a clipped signal.? kinda like what an o-scope would do an tell me when the signal was gettin clipped?

I have an ED 13Ov.2 that has just sat in my closet for a couple years. I just ordered a Nine.1 for it only to realize that they are on back order for who knows how long. The sub is a dual 2 so what is another nice amp putting out 600 or more RMS at 1 ohm for around 200?? Thanks in advance

These videos will show you why you need to have a proper electrical system backing your amps.

Explains the pros and cons of caps and also when, where, and why you need an alt and or battery.

I have two dual 1 ohm 18 BTLs fully loaded in a single chamber box...12 cubic feet after subs and port...with two kicker 2500.1...my gain was all the way down...my bass boost on the amps was half way up with the bass on my head unit at zero...when ever I turn my remote bass up the amps starts clipping...I had two MTX 8500 12s that hit louder on the local meter...I have a 275 amp alternator with another one on the way with two red top optimas all zero gauge wires power and ground wires...can someone help me out...I know these amps are better then this...

Howdy, I've ordered 1 fully loaded BTL12, Dual 1 ohm for daily use. I was eyeballing a Soundstream XXX 4000D to power the thing. In talking to an installer, they have suggested that the amp wouldn't work efficiently with the BTL Sub. They are currently trying to sell me on securing two 2000D's from soundstream and running one sub per voice coil. Looking around, this doesn't seem to be the best course of action eitehr. Any thoughts? This install will be in a 2009 Dodge Challenger RT. I'll be going with an Eclipse Navigation head unit. Stock stereo is the six speaker Boston Acoustics setup with a 270 watt amp for mids and highs.

so after finally getting everything tuned to where i wanted and set-up i was driving around for a little bit and then out of nowhere there is no bass... pulled over right then and checked the amp.. blue power light is on, no sign of protect mode at all. after work i got home and checked my fuses, all is fine. other speakers are normal, but when i checked speaker outputs from amp there is 0 volts. how do i fix this? hope its not that bad, was just starting to enjoy it all again! its a sundown SAZ-1500D, I've only had it a couple months, but i did get it from Db-r.com, but he does good work, no?

just wondering what rca cables people recommend when it comes to price and performance?

Hi SSA Members, Im looking to do a single battery in the trunk of my 1997 chevy cavalier, i will be running a single aq3500 with a single 12" Fi Audio BTL. now i already have a high output alternator that does 200 amps max and 90-100 at idle. and i have a battery up front (yellow top) that will go away so i conform to the rules of DB drag of a single 650 cu inch battery. now all i need is the battery. The only one ive seen so far that i think meets the rule is the Kinetic HC2000. But im not an electrical mastermind and quite frankly i have no idea how to get a good electrical system going. so i need a battery, and maybe some hints as to how to do the single battery in …

Ok I was just wondering what you guys do. I bought some knukonceptz terminals. Here's the situation. Did you guys cut off the factory terminals? And then just wire those into the new terminals? Or get a battery with multiple posts? Its gonna be in a 08 scion xb so I don't really wanna cut the factory terminals if i dont have to.

Well I just got my battery from somebody on here that was selling them and I have to say I am pretty sure its no longer usable. The terminals are pushed in a good two inches and the plastic housing around them is pretty badly cracked. I can see the stuff inside of it as well. Top Picture: Right Terminal: http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/4719/batteryrightterm.jpg Left Terminal: http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9920/batteryleftterm.jpg

k im looking to replace my headunit with one that has higher out put voltage whats a good brand and modeal i should look at i heard some of the kenwoods are good or would it just b better to get a line driver for my system

I have a 99 3 door Z71. I've upgraded the big 3 to 1/0 ga. I've put 200 amp Iraggi alt. in. I've got 2 Kinetik 1800's in the back. My amps are a RF T600-4, T1000-1. My volt meter still jumps alot and my lights still dimm a little. I just bought the 2 kinetik's new about 3 weeks ago. I put those 2 back there because I was planning on upgrading sub amp and 2-12's. But if it can't keep up with what I have there's no need. Is there something I'm missing to do or what? I don't listen to stereo very often with truck off. I just don't understand what's going on.

I was planning on buying 4 of the C&D High Rate 100 lb batteries for my car. They do something like 140 aH. I can get them for under $200 shipped each. I was looking into the d3100 batteries along with other batteries which are almost double the price. How much of a difference is there between the C&D batteries and say the d3100? Is it worth the extra $700 total I would have to spend? I am powering 4 of the saz1500s, 1 100.4, and 1 120.2. I have a 260 amp alternator. Let me know what you think.

Well I have most things at my place ready to be hooked up sometime soon. But theres one problem, thats with donig the big three with my alt. There is a plug on the back of it that plugs into the block, its a three prong plug and those seem to be 8 gauge wire. There are three wires goign to the block then two to the battery. I do not see a ground at all. Now I have no bloody idea how I would re wire all of that. I would need a new three prong plug able to support 0 gauge wire (I would think). Ill post pictures tomorrow of it but I am very confused. If anybody has ane experience with a 02-03 passat (same engines) PLEASE let me know! As of right now I am thinking I may be o…

just a quick one here guys. i currently own a optima red top grp35 and 2 kenetik hc800s. i am running a saz-2000d and sax-100.4 sub is the btl 18 fully loaded my question is... i am getting a HO alt as soon as i figure out what car i am doing this to but do i need to change my battery's. i am putting the optima up front witch is brand new.the hc800's come from the old setup but still work fine. Will the hc800s be enough for what i have and will they hold up until i get my HO alt?

What is the best way to decide on a head unit? My budget is no more than $250. I want something that looks clean, functions well, and sounds good too. Does anyone have any experience with the Alpine iDA-X303?

I bought a Pioneer P4100DVD and I can play movies just fine and everything but I wanna take it to the next step and start burning DVDs with music videos. I can't for the life of me find any documentation on how to format the videos besides being in .avi format. I talked to Pioneer and they weren't any help. Anybody got one of these?

I like both - the 9887 has a lot of audio plusses, but I really like the 710's iPod control (fast - no lag) Can you guys weigh in on which you would get? I'm also going to add/ or use the BT feature for handsfree. Please chime in with your experience on either HU. thx!

I am just wondering, how do you calculate the voltage output of an amp? Also how do you calculate the amperage output?

well thing is i had my alternator guy build me a high power one for my truck and for some unknown reason at times, mainly early in the morning when its cold out still my alt will be charging from 14.4 bouncing up and down to 15.5v ive takin the alt to my alt guy and he put it on the bench and said it tested good no problem... well thing is it only does this early in the mornings every now and then, but later on in the day it charges normal 14.4v just fine. i got no warrenty on the alt so anything that he does to it ill have to pay for. so if 15.5 wont hurt any of my equipment ill just leave it alone for now, otherwisee i gotta pay him to put anew regulator in it and just…

I had it for about 2 years now, I updated the software for it last week. Now it's a pain in the **s. I thought everything was fine, been doing good, now tonight it want connect through my Tungsten E2. It says i need the 3sixty.1 software to connect. My 3sixty.2 thinks it's a .1 now all of a sudden. I have reset everything, Uninstalled and re-installed the software to have the same thing come up. It thinks its a .1 for some reason. Any help well be appreciated.

ok, wifes car. RF 300.1 / REX12D4, got the amp set to push right around its 300 watts at 2 ohms. its wired up with 4 gauge. no other accessories like radar detectors or other amps or anything. the other night on the way home from going out to dinner I decided to keep the stereo cranked to as loud as it ever gets cranked to for the last ~10 minutes of the drive home. pulled into the driveway and left the lights on, stereo on, and the engine running. I busted out the DMM and it was basically staying at a steady 12.5 or so, then I killed the stereo and it took about 20-30 seconds and it was back around 14.3 and this is at idle. as long as the voltage is always over the ~12 …

i have heard from a few people to set my loudness on my headunit to off. i was just wondering why. any help would b great.