Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So this is what I am thinking. For my 2 zcon's I need more. They want more. Currently have a 2500d but was thinking of going with a 4500d. Or maybe even 2 2500d's strapped. Only problem is, zcon's are 1 ohm. Every where I look, for strapping u want 2 ohm. Which way should I go?

So I have a Sundown Audio SAX-1200d, and I get a lot of dimming. what battery should I get to STOP ALL dimming?? thanks

could someone give me a list of amps that do 2500 watts at 2ohms.

Ok, I am revamping an old mobile sound system in my 2000 jeep Cherokee. It will consist of... deh 80prs ?dsp? ? 4-6 ch? amp F.ch-exodus anarchy 6.5"x2 seas 1"27tbfgc x2 Back- 8"usher 8945p x2 possible Rear fill w/saz 125.2. - 5.25" peerless hds exclusive x2. saz1500.1d single 12" Xcon d2. Lots of deadener and foam. My questions are: 1: I'm going to run the new deh-80prs, which has a 3 way active xover internally. So, do I still need to run a dsp, ms8, bit one etc... To run my fronts as active? 2: If I do this, can I also run a 5 ch. To run front 2 way active, and then, off of sub ch, run my mids in rear passenger doors. I know there aren't spots designated there, b…

Do you guys think 2 of the AQ1200D can push 2 18 Fi Bl dual2 ohm?

does any one know how i would hook this up to the fan and my amp?http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Stinger-Adjustable-Fan-Controller-63p195.htm#details

amp cuts out when i: hit brake pedal OR turn on electric fans OR turn on compressor OR turn on a/c OR turn volume to loud (with gain turned almost all the way down and/or set properly) i have a red top under hood, a 280 amp alt., big 3, and kinetik 2400 running a hk4000d (i know these are power hungry, but not that much?) to a 18" fi btl(full loaded), all 1/0 gauge, knukonceptz rca's, jensen in-dash(vm9412) thought it was rca's, changed them, still does it so its either headunit rca signal(volts) or the amp any help appreciated, been having problem awhile and just want to get it figured out!

I have a crunch powerzone 1500.1 and have a strange issues between it and my head unit. I raise the gain, and there is little to no difference throughout the range until it's about 3/4 up. However, if I raise the line level input (I play music from my phone) it increases dramatically, however my highs distort, no matter how I adjust their amp. I haven't even bothered with the bb because I've heard nothing good about it; but I don't feel right maxing my gain to get decent output. It's the same level of sound as my 150w amp without the line level adjustment and I figure 6-700w increase should sound a little louder? only asking this now, because I plan on getting a new amp …

I have a sundown x10 d4 in a 2.0ft^3 box tuned to 31 hertz. I have been searching for an amp to run this sub for the past 2 months and can't come up with anything on a budget. My budget is about 400$ and I would like to put 1500 rms on the sub at 2 ohms. I have a second alternator to just power my system it's just your average 150 amp with a run of 1/0 sky high to a xs power 975. Anyone have any suggestions for an amp?

Anyone here ever tried to bypass, defeat, or remove the on-board x-over on an amp(class D specifically). My head unit can take care of this function. It would be nice to have up front control.

I need to find out if i will need the big 3 or not with my setup. Here is what i have 1 12" kicker L7 750watts rms 2ohm dvc and am going to be purchasing a JBL GTO 1201.1 787watts at 4ohms. My car is a 95 ram 1500 and i think the alternator is 120amps will i need the big 3? information on the amp there are 3 40amp fuses so 120 amps is the most the amp will pull i was told just put that there maybe it will help you guys. THANKS! if you need more information i will try to post it up!

Does anyone that is familiar with the Audiopipe 3000D (The one that is two 1500's strapped) familiar with what kind of current it pulls? I plan on getting one in the future, and I am trying to plan out my electrical system. I need to know what it takes to be able to back one of these suckers up. I currently have a 220amp h.o alternator, 1/0 Big 3, an Optima yellow top under the hood, and a run of 200amp fused 1/0 cable to the back.

i put in my new 200 amp from the group buy at ca.com forums. when over 950 rpm or so, it is awesome, rarely ever drops from 13.5 volts and when it does, not under 13. (going by my dash gauge anyhow) under 950 though, the voltage will drop almost to the red, to around 9.. red is at 7.5 or 8. having the stereo up drops it almost another half volt. either way, that is way low voltage. i could just turn my idle rpm up to 950 but it would burn more gas, and i like the rumble of a healthy v8 idling around 700 rpm. i do not have my optima yellow top in yet, waiting on terminals. im using an old, cheap, autozone battery, with 4 gauge run to the back split into 2 8 gauge wires. …

So ive been on google for almost two days now trying to find a dual alternator bracket setup but no luck. I have a 93 Chevy blazer ... 350 engine .. alternator on left.. Wanna keep my a/c .. Has anyone done this or have piks of a setup like this . I saw some diagrams of a 93 k2500 suburban with a oem dual alternator bracket but no part numbers. Just wanna get my electrical ready all before i get my amp .. im open to any fab ideas too.. any help is appreciated . thanks in advance http://www.compnine.com/largeimg/960228TC01-023.gif[/img bottom left is that braket im talking about and bottom right would be the finished product

I'm working on a little project where the only available power source is a 12 cell Ni-MH pack, starting at 16.8V fully charged, but dropping to 15-16V after some use. Would a HU run on this, or would it go up in smoke?

Ok, so i put my amp in advance and if anyone has experience with the t30001bd the top for some reason doesnt get tight. Any idea what i can do to stop the top from rattling?

Want to buy a good amp to powers 2 SA 12s. About 1500 watts and under 300$. Currently thinking about hifonics 1600 or audiopipe 1500. If know better amps I'm my price range please let me know

ok well i have a build come up on monday and i was wondering where to run the 1/0 i mena i have only ran 4awg and that was in the kick panel so i dont know where to run that big ass wire

I am adding a second battery and a bigger amp. I need about 25 feet of 1/0 wire. My question is whats the best place to get it from? Also, I see people not liking KnuKonceptz wire. What is up with that? Is it really not worth the $1.75 a foot they want? Is it better to buy from a welding supply company for about $2 a foot? I know these probably sound dumb, but I've only dealt with 4 gauge in the past, which you can get anywhere. Thanx guys

at what frequency is the subsonic filter for the audiocontrol epicenter i know that the soundstream and others have it at 35hz, but i dont know the audiocontrol subsonic filter i want to buy one, but my box is tuned to 32hz

so im buying this amp an i was gonna buy a 0-scope to set my amp gains. but since there's a clip light will that allow me to set the gains as high as they'll go without sendin a clipped signal.? kinda like what an o-scope would do an tell me when the signal was gettin clipped?

I'm planning on using some exotic wiring on being able to switch from 2ohm to 0.5ohm for competition via a switch so i do not have to rewire for an hour at every show. I see some copper made 80A relays. What i want to know is this, here is my scenario- Maximum burping current draw can be up to 85A AC. So i opted to use 2 80A relays per speaker in parallel for 160A of heat dissipation. Since Relays only use 10AWG quick disconnects, will quick disconnects be sufficient enough for this wiring? I plan on running modded inserts for 4awg wiring off each terminal of sub to a junction block. Then from there, 10awg to each relay pin, output to another junction box of 8…

Anyway all i have right now is a Soundstream XTA600.2 600 Watts RMS and my Oz Audio Matrix Elite 15 and its dimming even with that. I have been looking around and i cant find that many alternators for my car i had been recommended to call ohiogen to ask? my lights have been dimming when idling especially when the air is on at the same time, i have a 1995 dodge stealth and they alternators are weak on them and i believe i even have the upgraded 140 amp ......it could be the 110 amp thought im not sure, but i was told that i couldn't go past a 140 amp that it probably cant be wound more than that.... I saw this by powerbastards http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?pro…

My brother just bought a ssa xcon 18 an a audioque 2200 watt amp, can anybody suggest a second battery cheap in price but will do the job? The car is a 2009 dodge charger and the stock alt is 160 amp..Thanks for any help.