Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have 2 Hifonics BXI2607's and I noticed earlier today while listening to my system that one of the amps is making a rattling, buzzing noise when the bass hits. It only does it on the higher frequencies which do not hit that hard, the lower frequencies which are louder and hit harder the amp does not make any noise. The noise is coming from the RCA area of the amp. It is not the amp that I have running to the HU, it is the amp that I used a jumper RCA to hook up. I noticed that the amp does not make the noise until I get the volume up to 20/35 on the HU and gets louder as I increase the volume. I did not even notice it until I was in the back close to the amp, I thought …

Im looking for a list of banned amplifiers for the dbdrag street trunk class.. I cant really find a list anywhere and iv heard that american bass amps are ban in the street classes, but i cant find an actual list.

no constant 12v. Deck won't hold memory. I'm down to 2 more things to trouble shoot one check all wiring in car. I also have the engine light on, fog lights not working and first setting on windshield wipers not working. I have checked all fuses in dash. checked unit wiring. I'm going to check to make sure that the factory wires are matching with the aftermarkets correctly. Other than those 2 i'm completely clueless. The car is a 95 altima unit is alpine 9835

well we built a wall, the amp is currently fairly far away form the subs, about 6 feet of speaker wire goes to each sub, we are currently using cheap 14 gauge speaker wire LOL, but we are pulling a 152.7@1800 watts clamped, my guess is we would gain quite a bit by changing out speaker wire, what would you guys recomend? there are 4 dd 1500 series 12" subs hooked up to a planet audio 3000 wired to half ohm in a wall. looking for the best speaker wire that will transfer the power most effectivly for the long 6 ft run. thanks, Anton Miller

I have a aouple of rattles left to get out of my car. I bought some 60 mil dynamat type sound deadener off ebay. one of the last rattles I have is the heat deflector that is mounted 2 1/2" away from my muffler. it probably doesn't get near as hot as the muffler, but I want to get some feedback on it before I put any on the top of the deflector. does anyone know how much heat these deadeners can take safely. Should I put the deadener on the deflector? any advice would be appreciated. thanks Josh

Okay, so I was wondering if anyone had any input on this amplifier. I am basically asking if it was worth what I gave for it. I gave a good friend of mine $200 and a SAX-1200 for this amp. It slammed his Z18, and it looks like it's solid. Anyone had any problems or anything with this amp? Thanks

Whats a good amp that puts out about 1000RMS on 2 ohm for a cheap price thnx for the help! stupid budget

So my battery died yesterday cuz my friend left a light on in it. Its parked in my driveway which is on the main street of my town and i can't push it back anyways cuz of the snow. Would I be able to take my battery out and charge it with a friends running car? I don't see how this wouldn't work but just want to make sure before i make anything worse, gotta work tonight.

i am looking to get 1 icon 12 but i am not sure where to start looking for an amp. Any suggestions?

I was orignally looking for an external EQ for the zune, for headphones, but I came across this, and thought it was cool. I would be using it in my backpack. Gotta catch this bus. Feedback is appreciated.

does anybody know what size kinetik or powermaster will fit under hood of expedition? I am going to run either powermaster 3100 or couple kinetik 2000s in back, but expedition has side post in front, and not much clearance for hood.

Hey guys I'd like your expert advice about this Alpine configuration. Head Unit alpine Hd Tunner alpine Audio Processor alpine Sound Manager alpine Rear View Cam alpine Ipod Connection alpine I'm planning to do this upgrade as a christmas gift for myself, but I'd like to read some of your opinions about it.

ok im runnin low on resources to complete my install..so i was thinking of ways to save some money... Im going to be runnin 2 amps...a BX1000D and an older PG QX4150 fuses are 60 and 40 the Brutus takes 4 gauge while the PG takes 8 Now heres my question...i was gonna run 1/0 from the batt to the distroblock then split it into 4gauge and 8 gauge Now instead im thinking of runnin 4gauge from the batt then split it at the distro block into another 4 and 8 gauge Anyone against doin that?

Am wanting to get another bettery to help upgrade my electrical. Does anyone know if the special application Kinerik HC 2000 is the same as the regular HC 2000 because i can find those for a lot cheaper price than the regular ones? I think i read somewhere that this years regular model has higher amps rating than last years special applications model. How true is this? Thnaks in advance for the response.

okay i have a boss 1600 watt amp hook up to 2 10" CVT kickers, sealed box, in a 2007 Ford F-150 i know that there is a lot of forums disusing this same topic but i don't seam to understand. What should my Input Lever, bass boost, and Frequency

I am going to Gain match the Amps using a Dmm & an O-scope, anyone done this ? have any input on how to get the most outta the amps without Overdriving them ??? just want to do it different than Strapped any constructive suggestions or input is welcome

I want to install a processor, Have seen the 701 in action(didnt get much play time tho). I have not been able to screw around with a 360. Does anybody have any experience with these two units? I was leaning towards the alpine, mainly for the digital input. Is the digital that important, or not? Thanks for any help

Here's what I have to work with: ^thats the lame part. amps are 9.45" tall, while the cushion template is only ~7.5" What I'm thinking about doing. Please excuse my paint work The front is gonna have plexi to show the middle of the amp, but not the outer edges/wiring inputs. Gonna put a blue cathode above each amp inside the amp enclosure, out of sight. Might cover with vinyl, but I'm not sure cuz I suck at wrapping corners. Any other suggestion that'll look nice are welcomed Seem like a good idea? Any suggestions? Also, I need strong, thin wood so the rack wont protrude so much. What kind would u suggest?

I am looking to buy a head unit with a built in gps. I want a high end head unit and I am willing to spend around 500-1000. So any suggestions will be appreciated. It will be for a pontiac g6 gxp.

I am starting to debate what amp I should go with, Rockford Fosgate t40001bd, Autotek MM4000, or IA40.1. Pricing doesn't concern me that much, I am more looking for a "which would be a better amp to go with" I am guessing it to be in this order, but am not 100% IA40.1 T40001bd MM4000.1D Thanks I was lookin more for the IA, cuz they aren't as popular as the forgate, but they are becomming harder n harder to find.

Hello, I have a '12 mustang with the factory head unit and I want to power the door speakers and a sub. Is there a way to do this without replacing the head unit? My air controls are integrated into the same panel and there are no aftermarket options for me that look nice, and did I mention the faceplates are $300 and up? not including the double din I think a line output converter would be the normal solution but how do you get 3 sigals out of one?

i got 2 12' HCs, there for daily, so im decidin a amp. i was gonna get 2 bx1000ds but i diddnt no if i should spend extra to get the bx1500ds instead. but i think 3k watts will be to much for daily. also i got a 80 amp alt so i doubt ill be able to run either of them without upgrading. also i was thinkin of a tsunami 1800db but i heard ppl havin probs wit em. also i does any sites still sell them? ty, and if u no any amps i would like for aroun 450-500 post them.

Nevermind

i bought this a while ago i did my big 3 with it but the rest of my system is going to be all knu could this be a weak link ? http://www.amazon.com/Monster-1s-125-Powerflex-Magnetic-Quality/dp/B004BXTMOC is this like true 1/0 i cant find anywhere of what load it can handle like on the knu site it tells you how many amps their wire can handle

Fi Q 15 Cadence zrs 7000d at 1 ohm, specs below: 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 500 Watts @ 13.8 Volts 2 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 900 Watts @ 13.8 Volts 1 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 1300 Watts @ 13.8 Volts IHF-2002 Peak Power: 1 x 2600 Watts Max @ 1 ohm Two Z7000D bridged together - 1x 2600 Watts RMS @ 2 ohm Frequency Response: 10Hz - 400Hz S/N Ratio: >100 db Damping Factor: 100 @ 100Hz Minimum THD: <0.03% Input Voltage: 200 mV - 8 Volts Dimensions: 12.6" x 9.4" x 2.4" Stock alternator (150amp) and battery I had this system setup with no big-3 and stock alt and battery for about a month before the battery started showing white corrosion on the terminals as if it were over heating…