Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I've had this unit working in my truck for about a year and a half now no problems and yesterday I get in and it turns on plays fine for a few minutes then the screen goes black and I lose all sound. When I turn on my truck all the buttons will light up and I hear the internal fan turn on, also powers on my amps but still no sound or screen. Things I've checked -Inline fuse on the yellow cord (Good) -Remove the button cluster and trying the reset button -Remove the negative cord from my battery for a few mins and hooking it back up and trying to start the unit -Truck running and off with accessory -Removed the radio and plug it in to a 12 volt power supply None of t…

I recently did a install using a audiopipe ap3001d (older 16volt discontinued model) on two 15" kicker l7's in a seald enclosure 1.5cuft. each. The amp was shocking strong. But on to my question , has anyone dealt with the audiopipe apsm 1500 mono block? And if so do you think it would be to much for my two first gen. Dcon 12's in 1.2cuft sealed inclosures? And ps. can a box from sketch up be uploaded on the site? If so how? Thanks for all help.

Hey people. I have a very simple question that i need answered. I have one hcca 15.2 and i have one hcca 25001 amp. I plan on buying another one of each to put in my car but just out of curiosity, both the 15.2 and the 25001 amp have been sitting up unused for quite some time, and i would like to know would that cause any malfunctioning in either of the two? Just curious, Thanks!

The post jumps around a bit but I try to provide as much information as possible. The main issue I have is it seems as though my voltage drops more then it should. The alternator charges at 13.3 at idle and only kicks up to around 14.1 when I am going 30-35+mph. I do have a Singer 370 which is being shipped on Friday, not sure if its gonna fit yet but we will see haha. My voltage full tilt usually drops down slowly to 12.2 after about 20seconds of play and sits there, never seen it go under 12.1 which is good but I still think it should be higher. Even when on the highway going 70mph the voltage will drop from 14.1 to 12.3. Im running a Zed leviathan which is running a…

so my friend picked up a mechman 220 for his dodge avenger 2012. with his factory alternator he had some decent dimming of lights and gauges even when cruising down the road. with his mechman he says his voltage will drop to 11.2V on the alternator stud and his car has shut off and restarted itself during idle with the mechman but never with his factory alt. he used an amp meter to find out he has about 65A at idle coming from the alt under load. first off how accurate is that measurement? secondly what steps should one take to isolate the alternator vs a ground or other issue in the system? his system power is about 2KW with a JL 5 channel powering rainbow door compon…

Anyone had any experience with these amps? Im looking for sq amps but it must be able to fit under the seat of my 07 frontier. This amp seems to fit the bill pretty well as far as size and with the class g/h design should be pretty clean sounding. It will be bridged to a pair of HAT CLARUS 6.5 components. Passive for now.

Thanks any way please delete

I am in the process of helping a friend choose equipment for his install. The car is a 2005 Chrysler 300M. This will be an active setup with 3.5" highs mounted flat in the dash, and 8" midbasses mounted in the doors. He already has a JVC KWV20BT hu installed. This hu is lacking a bandpass filter and time alignment. Also has limited EQ ability's. I have suggested a stand alone digital sound processor as the owner does not want to purchase a different deck. He is fine with this. What DSP's are currently available that will allow for a active 2-way, has T/A, has a decent EQ, AND the ability of tuning from the drivers seat? As I don't keep up with all the current offer…

Has anyone heard of concorde sun xtender batteries? Someone local to me is selling some and was wondering if they would be the same as any agm battery for car audio.. could get a good deal on them for the amount of amp hours they are. Just never heard of them before. Any input is appreciated

Hello Guys, Well, I've picked up my truck from the shop today, and will officially begin to drive it daily again. So I am in the market for an Rear View Mirror / Camera options. As you all know, I know have a wall. I live in the state of TN. I'm not sure of their rules and regulations, but I know one rule states nothing can block your rear vision or something to that extinct. So I am wanting to combat this issue. What I am wanting is: A) One camera that is always "on" B) One camera that is always "on", Second camera that is only on when in reverse. What my thought was to, mount an camera like, lower bumper. This camera will only be on going in reverse. Then, t…

Alright guys, I was helping my friend install a system in his HHR that he just got, and he wanted to keep the stock headunit. I don't know if the problem is because of the factory headunit not excepting the line out converter or what. The problem is that once we installed the line out converter to the proper wires the front 6 1/2's stopped working. We tapped the rear speakers for the line out converter. I did not solder the wires I don't think that is the problem though. The thing that is weird to me is that the tweeters still worked, the rear speakers still worked, and the sub and amp worked. So do you guys know anything that we can do to fix this problem. I have looked …

I installed a audiopipe 1500 to power a sundown x10 in a ported box. jl audio componants in the front doors jl coaxials in the rear deck running on a jl700/5 the 2012 mustang gt factory hu and lastly the pain in my back is a audiocontrol dq 61. I mounted everything on a wall behind the rear seats just in the trunk. I 2 separate stinger 1/0 for power as well as grounds. My signal is also stinger 9 conductor w/ 2 350amp fuses. the 5th channel on the 700/5 is waiting on jl8w3 mounted in the front doors. I hope there is something my eyes are not catching because the insides sound like tin cans. when I am able to improve the sound I cant turn them up beyond 25% without clip…

I have: mechman 270 amp 2 kinetik hc2000s 0 gauge knuknoceptz with big three -1 hifonics brz1200 (subs) rockford prime (highs) I installed the mechman alternator it said in the instructions to NOT ground to the body as it will cause problems so I skipped this step. My question is do I need to ground the battery in the back if the one up front is not grounded to the frame? I have ran the batteries in parallel using 0 gauge on the - terminals amd + terminals so is this step really necessary? My next question is using a distribution block. I have a 0 gauge distribution block that splits into two 4 gauge terminals. I have my hifonics grounded to the frame with 0 gaug…

Im looking for, im guessing his name is Mark Lafountain. He/was Soundsolutions on Caraudio.com.... I request him because he did a build in a sante fe and im curious to how he ran his wire. or anyone else a have a idea. im running 4 runs of 1/0

Have an Audioque 1200d that stopped working on me and I'm now looking for a replacement for it. I had no issues with the amp (until recently when I started smoking) so I have no problem going with the Soundqubed 1200d if thats the best option. I was about to order it but figured I would ask here first. Anyways, it's being used to push my 12" ICON. Any suggestions on a solid amp that will produce the 1200-ish watts under $300 shipped is welcomed. Thanks!

I'm looking into getting one Fi team 18 sub. Will 2 rockford fosgate t2500bdcp amps be too much power?

Order or build time

so this kid on SMD claims that i should be ok with an 80 amp stock alternator running off an audio pipe 2000 together with a rockford 250.4 as it is i have major volt drop, have a yellow top under the hood and an xs power xp950 I'm looking forward into buying a singer alt 180 amps but trying to see if it'll be good even after i purchase a larger amp which I'm thinking about the soundqubed q1 3500 let me know what you guys think, should i stick to the 180 amps and still be good in the future? (still gonna purchase a second xp950 in the near future)

Downsizing my equipment and looking for a new amp to power 1 xcon. Just looking for a awesome mono amp 500-1500w @ 2ohms. Trying to keep it under $250 and not in a rush, hoping to come across some black friday deals. Any recommendations? So far I've came across http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34764_Rockford-Fosgate-R1200-1D.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68122_RE-Audio-USX-45KV.1.html and the IA 10.1 or sae-1000d

What size/thickness copper pipe is used to make copper lugs/ring terminals?

So hoping others with more knowledge then I, could help clear up the wondering of my mind... What are the benifits of a person running a daily, (non-competitive) sub stage at 4 ohm compared to 1 ohm? Just curious if the pros were great enough, to dish out double the money for an amplifier? Thanks for everyones time and input!

Still doing a little research, saw some you tube videos on this amplifier and is wondering does anyone own 1, and if so how good is it?

Ive had a sundown sae 1200 v2 for going on 4 years now. Its been ran in two systems/cars both at 1 ohm. I installed it those two times set it and left it(set it differently). Been going strong until today. My car is a Buick lesabre with a stock 130a alt. My battery is under backseat and power n ground are ran from battery to amp; literally 2-3 ft long runs. My voltage has always been decent; mid 13s is about the lowest I see on hard drops. Today on my way home from work beating all the way here; 15-20 minutes. Right when I pulled into town my bass stopped.upon inspection all 5 30a fuses in the amo popped, the 120a fuse in between the battery and amp did not. All power and…

Hey everyone, I got a sundown x18 powered by a hifonics zeus 1800 and crescendo components to the doors on 600w hifonics zeus. I was running this setup for a couple weeks with stock battery, stock 75a alternator, and no big 3 with no problems at all. With the stock setup, my volts were around 14.2v at idle and when I turn my system up it usually drops from around 13.1-11v and the stock alternator kept up pretty well. I decided to get a new Kinetik 1800w battery, a 175a alternator, and I did the big 3. When I did all of this, my system got worse. My volts were running at around 13.4-13.7 and when I did something as little as rolling up my windows, it drained he volts all…

Hi everyone, i was upgrading my cars electrical today (big 3, new 175a HO alt, Kinetik 1800w batt) and when I was done installing it and I turned over my car, I was running 13.8v. When I started playing some music, it sounded like it was quieter than when I had stock electrical. All the lights in my car were dimming and the volts were dropping as low as 10.5v. The alternator was charging real slow and having a lot or trouble keeping up. What could the problem be?? I am absolutely clueless on what it is so if anyone has a good suggestion, I would love to hear it. Thanks in advance