Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have 2 sets of re xxx 6.5 components ... i was thinking about going active but i do not know what the benefits would be and if it would be worth me spending the extra money for another amp ... would these speakers do well with an active setup? they are rated at 150 rms each (mid+twwet combined) ... how much power should i put to each mid and each tweeter? the ohm rating on the set is 2 ohm but will that change each speakers impedence?

So i was at my local shop and i was talking to the manager about buying a alpine 9887 and he was trying to tell me that I was making a huge mistake and active isnt worth all the time spent shaping the crossovers and then he told be the 9887 will not low pass the mid up too 2500 hz like i want to for my mli-65s so i ask all of you is he right that i would need more processer or is he full of it. Thanks for any help Brian

Currently i have a some JBL components (608C's) in my truck but, but i am currently thinking about purchasing a RF 3sixty.3. My main question is since i am already using components does it even make since to make the purchase unless i change my front stage speakers? I know it is kind of a vague question with many different variables but to keep in context if you are currently using a passive cross-over would going active give you any benefits as far as sound quality?

hey guys i am new two the whole speaker set up thing but knows some about amps and subs. My question is i have 1997 f150 regular cab with four speakers one in each door and one beehind each seat. Are these stock speakers active or passive? I really dont know what the difference is between active and passive if you guys could help me understand that would be great. I also plan on replaceing these speakers by next year and i would like two know if i should run an active or passive speaker set? P.s: i also putting a 10 or 12 inch sub in on its own amp, run four speakers on a 4channel amp? and i need to find a new h/u i am looking to spend about 1200. any help and answers wou…

Picked up a kenwood kdc-hd942u a while back for my mothers scion since she was tired of the stock setup. instead of purchasing a new deck, could i add an external processor to go active..such as the rockford 3sixty?

I'm wanting to go with a 3-way active system in the SC sometime in the future. I already have a Pioneer 880 and a 10" SSA Icon. My question, though, is about signal. I know my HU had 3-way abilities, but is that for a tweeter, mid, sub set up? If I want to go tweeter, midrange, mid bass, and sub will I need an external processor?

I want to run an active front stage. I am using an AC DQX and an Audison VRx 4.300. Here is a clip out of the manual: Is this the correct way to wire the set up? I just want another opinion before I run my tweeet off the bandpass output of the DQX, or something along those lines. (sorry for the crap diagram, but the middle section is the RCA inputs, and the speaker terminals are on the outsides). Thanks.

What is required for an active speaker system? What features should you look for in a headunit and amplifier?

Ok, so I decided to go with a Alpine 9887 with the time imprint. my next question is can this deck do a good job if I run my mids active? I have never tried to run an active setup before, and was hoping you guys could point me in a direction as to how it all works. I know you need to run each speaker on a seperate channel of an amp. So, I will have to buy another mid amp. Now would I just use RCA splitter on say the front right to get my mid and highs seperate? Now I also read that you have to run it in full range and control it all of of the deck EQ is that correct?

Alright guys, I'm looking to expand my knowledge on car audio and I'm wanting to look into active setups and how they work, do's and dont's, ect. I'm not trying to look lazy here and not able to do my own research but I cant seem to find some quality websites explaining this when I search it up. Anything will help, either your own knowledge or websites that you know of. Thanks -Mike

I ran new wires today, and installed the 9887. I tested the deck out with the passives, so the deck is fine. On active I seem to not be getting sound out of the tweeters. I have the deck set on "3-way" mode, which I think is correct. The manual says to run the tweeter wire to rear channel for me is 3 and 4. And I ran the mids to channel 1 and 2. I'm thinking it might be the "input channel" setting on the amplifier. I also shut the crossovers on the amp to Off. Input Channel Options: 1)"Setting this switch to

Ok so i'm on my first active setup. I have a set of kicker RS6.5 comps. on a sundown SAX-100.4. When we hooked everthing up and tested it for the first time the tweets were working and the mids weren't. So i started unplugging RCAs, if i move around one set of RCAs then i get mids and highs out of only one side. I can even manage to get both tweets but not the passenger midbass to work. So first i thought maybe either RCAs or Bad input. Well turned out the midbass was grounding out. FIXED. Ok now i can't get bother left and right to work unless i run another set of RCAs from the output side to the input side. see pic..... So now i figure that i have a bad set …

Ok so I have an Adassa Audio The Warlord amp and I was setting the gains with a 50hz test tone and a dmm and right when I got it at 70 volts it started to fluctuate. It went down to 66v then 60v then 50 and so on. It got to the point where I turned up the gain 100% and it was only giving out 51v!! I shut everything down and waited a while because the amp was hot and when I tried to set the gains again it worked for a while (stayed at 70v) but then dropped back to 60v. I now think something is wrong with the amp. Has anyone heard of this problem? I am thinking about sending it to Chris at db-r.... opinions? Thanks!

Working on buddys stereo today in his jeep. Already had 3amps hooked up and everything was working perfectly fine. Was installing a fourth amp for his bullet tweeters. After wiring everything up and splitting the remote wire again to run a strand to the tweeter amp and turned the car on and none of the amps powered up...... Anybody ever encounter this problem or has any advice of what the issue is. Fuses are all good double checked remote wiring at amps and hu. Just weird never had such a thing happened to me before with a simple amp instal nor have i ever needed 4amps either. Very much appreciate your input.

Apparently I'm addicted to power. I currently have a ton of equipment sitting in the basement, and no vehicle to put it all in. Seem I keep buying amplifiers. I own a work van that I drive daily, a 1966 Buick that looks pretty in the driveway, and I have no intention of putting a system in that. I just have way too much hardware so my plans keep changing. I'm after a total SQ install, and "over the top volume"(across all frequency ranges not just bass) is something that is VERY important to me. EXTREME mid-bass and VERY clear loud highs are a must. Any suggestions as to which equipment I use and don't use are welcome. here is a list: HU- Denford 8240 HU- Denford 8240 Cap…

Well I once again thought an update was in order. A few interesting developments. Recently won an amplifier naming contest for **Zed Audio**. I named the new 6 channel amplifier 'LEVIATHAN' This contest awards me $100USD towards a Zed Audio Amplifier, and another 'free amplifier of Stephen's choice (from other manufacturing at the Zed Audio factory). I don't know what the free amp will be, but I trust Stephen will make it intersting. The $100 credit towards a 'Zed Audio Amp' Will go towards my purchase of the Leviathan when they are built. The Leviathan is still in the design stage now. Recently I got a great deal on an **OmniFi System** that comes with the car and h…

Just thought I would share some information of an amp head to head test I did over the weekend. This is not a post to bash any company just sharing information take it for whats its worth: Test set up: Test set up was using the follwoing Alpine 9874 headunit Test volume 27 Test Hz 74 input voltage to amps .97 volts Two Addictive Audio version 3 12" dual 2 ohm subs (wired at .5ohms) car off (12 volt test) one Xs-D2700 Xs-power charger 25 amps (14 volt test) three Xs-D1600 Xs-power charger 5 amps Amp one: 2.5Kv2 Amp settings Gain at Min 17 volts out Gamn at Max 84 volts out Test setting 82 volts out Amp Two: 250.1 Amp settings Gain at Min 20 volts out Gain at Max …

Hey all. I have a Saz2500D and an excessive amperage 225 amp alt. Big 3. Autocrat gold batt up front. Anyways, my voltage runs off all over the place (it will drop down 2 volts and sometimes spike up to 16V!!!). Sometimes those spikes will even cause my radio to turn off for a second. Do you think adding a yellowtop or something similar in the back near the sub amp will help voltage drop and these irregularities? Resting voltage is 14.9V. Maximum drops are high 12's. Thanks

This is how my boat is wired as of now. 2 ga. from the alt (pos) and the neg. (don't know where it is grounded but most likely the engine somehwere). These are connected to the starting battery. Then I have additional 2ga cables running in series to the aftermarket stereo battery (a deka intimidator), off of this is where my 4 ga. amp wires run (pos and neg in the same fashion). My question has to do with the grounding. I would guess that it would be better to ground my aftermarket battery directly to some big ass piece of metal (but alas only fiberglass around) and the same goes for my amps. It seems that all the ground is running all the way back to the starting batte…

ive looked and looked and looked some more but i cant find the diagram for adding a second battery. someone posted it on here before but i cant find it now. could someone give me the link for it please?

Well I've decided on getting an XS D3400 for a second battery in the back of my escape. I currently have 4 gauge going back there, would that be enough or should I go for 0 gauge? I could always upgrade the wire down the road if I have to, but for now I'm only running 1500 watts.

This topic is to help a friend at work. He recently bought a 1996 Lexus ls400, he loves the stock system as far as clarity just wants to add some bass. It has a stock free air 8" in the rear deck but its guttless on any bass. He doesn't want anything outrageous just needs to get it bumpin a little bit. What do you guys suggest he do? He has mentioned maybe just find another free air 8 to replace what's there...who makes a decent free air 8? Maybe do a LOC and just add a sub and amp to the trunk?..but he has a stock amp and I have no clue how that works.. Another question he asked me was if he changes his stock head unit, will he lose the ability to use the stock amp and e…

I have a simple quick question. If i wire my new kinetik 2400 in parallel to my stock car battery will i be fine with my 3000 watt amp? some people are saying i must get an isolator and others not. and i have no idea if it will damage anything or not. and no i wont be playing music without the car on

i was thinking of adding a mp3 player to my car, i was either thinking ipod mini or creative zen micro, im leaaning toward zen micro now and getting that napster to go and just fill it up with songs, which is hard to beat for getting most any song on there(unless anyone has used it and can say different) although i would like an ipod because of the adapter that will show what song is playing and i can hide the ipod and just use cd player, but no upload of songs with it , gotta buy them old fashion way or used p2p but i was planing on getting this http://www.crutchfield.com/S-F46N3x...asp?I=130CDRB10 for the zen or this for ipod http://www.crutchfield.com/S-F46N3x...sp?I=1…

So maybe some one here has done 2 alts can help me. just came back from my mechanics shop and was told that adding second alt would not work, i asked why and was told he could install but could not turn alt on, said i needed a wire harness to hook up to trucks computer. I thought the belt turned the alt on and i could wire to rear batt bank. Can anyone with this type of knowledge please help me out? (air con being swapped for stock alt to go with my Mechman 270a alt)