Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Does anyone know where to look for a HO alt for an 02 Kia Sephia? Looking for a 140-175a for a friends car, the only one we can find is a 140a for ~500

is it better to use only the amp's gain to adjust output (up to the clipping point), or use minimal gain settings and set the bass eq on the hu high? I'm thinking it would be better to just use the amp b/ you dont want the hu sending an already clipped signal?

hi! i need you good opinions on this amps: KICKER 750.1- - $410.66 # Class D # Amplifier Type 1 Channel # Mono subwoofer amplifier # 375 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms # 750 watts x 1 at 2 ohms ALPINE-MRP-M1000 - $451.72 # Mono (single channel) V-Power BASS amplifier # Class D # RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20Hz-20kHz) # Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V +-1%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz) 600W x 1 # Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V +-1%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz) 1000W x 1 i'm from europe...the price are the cheapest i can find.. in europe.. thanks

Well i just installed all my equipment in my 4runner. I received my speakers today and hooked everthing up...4 15 ssd w/copper coils and bp power option...and im running 2 MA HK802SX amps.......Well the system hits pretty good, but i think it should or can do more....My voltage is dropping down to 10.2 volts at worst. Im loosing power like crazy....Even with multiple grounds and hots distributed everywhere my grounds are getting warm!!!!!<---not good i know.....I have the following installed right now -165 Amp Alternator -Kinetik HC1800 Under Hood -Optima Blue Top in the rear with amps (temp) I know this is not enough juice, but i have the optima sold and i was going t…

is there a technical way of finding out how much power an amp puts out @ 3 ohm? my boston pro60s are 3 ohm, and i was thinkin about gettin a zx550.2, and thats 205w rms x 2 @ 2 ohm, and i think 175 @ 4, i could take a ball park guess around like 190ish maybe, but is there an actual way to figure that out with math, or do i gotta get the amp, get a DMM, etc etc? VJ

So what are the benefits of a line driver? I have a Clarion VRX755VD w/ 2volt preouts. With the gains set at 3/4 of the way up I still have to turn the deck's subwoofer gain setting to +3. If I don't turn the deck gain to +3 then the subs won't "max out", even when I reach full volume on the HU. Would a line driver solve this problem? I just don't feel safe turning the gain on the amp all the way up.

well back at the turkey drag show someone broke into my ride and stole all my amps, and my hu, plus some other random stuff. so i figured this is a good chance too upgrade. picked this up off of LEM43606, shipping was fast, he had everything the amp came with as if bought new, even the brown factory shipping box the display factory box is shipped in. and he went a little beyond what is necessary, and made me some vinyl decals for my car. would not hesitate too do business again with him. OH i guess i should stop being a tease and show some picks. (maybe that sounds corny, but hey i am a stereotypical white guy lol) for size reference. now i just need my me…

well im about to start my new build some time next week hopefully and im trying to get my electrical squarred away this weekend so here it goes. i recently recieved my new amp (cactus 5kw), and i know it is going to need alot of juice so my plan is to 1.) upgrade my starting battery to a decent car audio battery (everstart maxx, walmart style now) 2.) do my big 3 in 0 ga (haven't done that yet) 3.) run 0 ga to the trunk 4.) one battery in the trunk for sure (d3100) and possibly another if i need it. so far my knu koncepts cart looks like this: 2, 0ga amp kits(for the extra wire, 250amp fuses), 4, battery terminals, 2, 200 amp fuse(for alt and rear batt.), 10 foot of 10ga…

so, like the title says, im begin to look into an active set up. right now i have chitty sony hu (cdx gt310.... first hu). im basicly looking to the option i should be considering when goin to an active set up. obviously im looking for new hu. my idea is to slowly work up the funds for it or put it on my xmax list. as a college student i really dont have the funds but im very interested in this hobby and i think this is the next step. well technically i will be deadening the front doors first and finishing the trunk. my plans are to sell my current hu and pg rsd components when the time comes ofcourse. i also need to run new rca's and clean up some power and gound wiring …

hello guys i was wondering would it be ok to run 1 sub that is 150 watts rms off a 4 channel amp and run front speakers in a car on the other 2 channels of the amp ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/SONY-ELECTRONIC-CROSSO...1QQcmdZViewItem Anyone know where I can find more specs on it?

i have 4 choices to choose for an amp for my re audio xxx comps since i really didn't like the offers i had for them. and so i am looking at amps for them and here is what i am thinking. Sundown Saz100-2 Kickers sx250.2 (if they can handle 250 watts) Kickers 400.2 Jl 300/2 These are 2 ohm speakers and i am only going to be running a front stage so they neet to able to get fairly loud since i will be having 2 12" icons for the subs.

So I should be getting my sub in today. I think. I never got trackng lol. Anyway I wont be able to do my Big 3 until friday.....will it be ok running my sub and amp on stock electrical until then? In case you havent seen my other posts I will be running 1 IA Lethal injection 12 on a SAE-1200D @ 2ohm for 600wrms. What do you guys think? I want to hear this sub bump but dont want to risk messing up my amp. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeremy

I am looking at two different amps. The sundown 3500 or the crescendo 5500. Both r close and around same price. I hear crescendo is not very good at customer service and theory ratings r rated at 13.8 volts. Sundown on the other hand is known for customer service and umderate their amps, supposingly tested at 12.5 volts. I'm leaning toward the sundown amp and almost commuted to it, but would the crescendo b better especially since they have .05 ohm warranty. What do u guys think?

I am looking to buy this head unit due to it's low price versus features...The only problem is that it only has two pre-outs rather than three. In the near future, I would like to add an amp and better door speakers and another amp and a set of 10's or 12's. Does having only two pre-outs make this a deal breaker for some of you who know more than I?

So as you all know I have been getting very mixed information trying to figure out what to do with my subs, my box and all that junk. Well I finally got a response from Bob at American Bass, turns out I am having such trouble finding info cause my speakers are 12 years old, although he says they are very good speakers, so I am still determined to use them with my setup. He informs me that I should run 300 rms to each sub, but once again my trouble is finding the info I need since these are dual 6-ohm speakers. I have been looking at tons of amps, monos, 2-ch, 4-ch bridged, you name it, I just can't make sense of it with the speakers I have, with my options being 3 ohm eac…

i'm curious about a 2600 on a 18'' btl fully loaded dual 2ohm sub, do you guys think it's a decent amp or should i pick up something a little better?

I've decided to go ahead and keep my Dcon, but now I need a new amp. I'm on a tight budget and I found these two: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236RFL202/MTX-RFL202.html?tp=35757 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9037_MTX-Audio-XThunder-702X.html Both are right on my budget, but the main thing I'm looking at is that all the controls and inputs are on the same side. Where I'm mounting it (under rear seat) and the way my wires are already ran makes these two a good fit (my old amp was an MTX RFL600D). I've never understood the technical aspects of amps, so what I need to know is which amp would be a better choice?

I'm looking to do the big 3 on my 98 expedition. I was looking at the wiring from alt to batt and there are 2 runs of wire. Both are fused. Either 150 or 175 amp fuses. Am I alright to run wire straight from the amp to the battery? Or should I replace wire from alt to the fuses then fuses to batt? I'd rather leave stock wiring there and then run a 4 or 0ga run straight over. Of course I'd just do the 2 grounds chassis to block, block to batt. Any have experience with a late 90s ford?

would you guys recommend- 1. running power from battery to the cdplayer instead of using the factory harness? 2. grounding to the fire wall or use the factory harness? deck is the clarion mentioned in my build log (the cheap one that can do active)

I purchased a used Kicker ZX 750.1 for really cheap that was advertised as working condition but only after the engine is turned on. I figured this problem had to be unique to to the previous owner's car but it isn't. I tested this thing in two vehicles and it turns on with the ignition but only amplifies a signal after the vehicle itself has been turned on. Furthermore, if the car is turned off without completely turning the key it will continue to work as expected. I'm here to see if anybody knows anything about this. If it's a super cheap/easy fix I'm all over it, but more than that I'm just curious as to what's up. Besides this, the amp works exactly as it should…

ok so i learned with my last amp not to bolt it to the box.....well ive got my newest one bolted down between my front seats with the sub replacing the back seat and the amp is vibrating to much and cuts out. but i tap it and press down on it to keep it from vibrating and its fine.....now what i wanna know how can i mount the amp im getting in a few weeks so i wont have to worry about this problem happening to a brand new amp after awhile....anyone else ever have this problem?

I recently bought a hifionics brutus amp and the blue hifionics loogo works, but the power led does not come on. The manual said if this happens theirs not enough power going through the remote wire and said to use a jumper wire and connect it to the 12V+? Im not exactly sure what to do, and i def dont wanna take my chances and screw it up. Can someone tell me what to do?

Well I just started today really trying to tweak everything on my amplifiers to get everything working correctly. I started with my big amp setting the gain with a DMM. all that went well but I noticed that my subsonic may have been off. So I popped in a tone to 33hz to try and make it cutoff at that point and its not. I cranked it up to 60 hz (has a range of 10-60hz) and it is still not cutting that signal out. Is it possible I have a faulty SSF? I have a SAZ-3500D and a SAX-50.4

i was hoping M5 (or someone else) might know of a place locally that does a mix of electrical work. i had a customer drop off a large LED sign board that runs off 220V mains with seriesed 110V inverters into about 88 separate micro controller boards that run off 24/12/5.6V and control small segments of RGB led's. the panel blows breakers upon power up. its beyond the scope of work that we do at my shop and wanted to give the customer and idea of maybe where to go.