Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

1) Low voltage. Most car charging systems aren't equipped to handle the extra strain of amplifiers without some sort of help, if this is the case you may need to add, a capacitor or battery. 2) Blown sub. Sometimes when you blow a subwoofer, it can take your amp down with it, most amp's will go in to protect before this happens, but not always. 3) Over driving the amp. If you max the gain, and bass boost on your amplifier, you can cause all sorts of problems, including blown fuses. 4) Loose or bad connections. Check your connections to the battery, and ground, sometimes a loose connection will play, but cause your amp to over heat by working to hard to produce it's power.…

Since a week or two, my Pioneer head unit has some problems. Sometimes the "face" doesn't respond, as if there is no power to it. It can happen with the music playing or with the h u off. If I unplug and the plug in the car fuse for the h u, eveything starts working again. If I press the reset button on the h u it starts working again, but I loose some settings. Do you know (or understand) what is happening ? Can it be a simple fix, or will I need to buy another h u ? Please help !!!

My head unit was fine yesterday morning, but yesterday afternoon it statrting going crazy. I get in the car and it has reset itself to factory settings. The clock was wrong, it was in demo mode, and my buttons under the touch screen were unresponsive. The open and power buttons worked but the unit would turn itself back on after I turned it off. The touch screen still works for all the functions, but it is restarting with factory settings everytime the key is turned off. Wiring is fine and wouldn't account for the loss of function to the buttons

My Kenwood KDC-MP342U won't save settings after i turn the head unit off. I did the install, had to hardwire with the wires, the factory harness was cut out from the previous owner, i used butt connectors. Truck in sig. Here is a video -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fRHgeJgcko

now i know this is not ah hole lot of power like some of the systems some of you guys have but is what i have for now till i do my big upgrade! here is some pics of the system i had and what i chanced it to. lets just say its 5 times better then it was before! old system: one treo tsx 12" sub on a carpeted bandpass box one treo ssx 400.1 amp one treo knob processor new set up: one treo tsx 12" sub on a bed-linered ported box tuned around 34 hrtz with one zapco 500.1 amp now the new set up

also if i turn the music up to loud the volts drop way to much and my amp will go into protect i have a 250 amp alternator and a optima redtop under the hood and 2 deka intimidators in the trunk and a sundown 3000d im guessing the problem is the red top what do you guys think

I have everything connected right on my amp but it is going to protect mode!! I’ve disconnected everything and connected everything back but still is in protect mode. I have a loc running to my amp on my stock boss radio. Can anyone let me know what am I doing wrong. Also if I connect the remote wire to the amp and conect the battery wire and remote together also my amp turns on idk if that a bad thing or a good thing. Fyi it was working before and one day in the am everything stop working.

What's this? OOO, just peeking This is going to be unused Business end Diddle Note my roommate's ugly feet. Gross. Thanks JoeHemi... great doing business with ya

So I was browsing the classified looking at all the junk that people wanted a ton for when I came across this. Even better was what I paid. Just wish I had a use for it, its been sitting in a closet for years I was told, its got some scratches but its a huge beautiful amp. Please bear with me as I have never posted pics on a forum. Album: Codesters audio stuff 1 images 0 comments

well back at the turkey drag show someone broke into my ride and stole all my amps, and my hu, plus some other random stuff. so i figured this is a good chance too upgrade. picked this up off of LEM43606, shipping was fast, he had everything the amp came with as if bought new, even the brown factory shipping box the display factory box is shipped in. and he went a little beyond what is necessary, and made me some vinyl decals for my car. would not hesitate too do business again with him. OH i guess i should stop being a tease and show some picks. (maybe that sounds corny, but hey i am a stereotypical white guy lol) for size reference. now i just need my me…

Well it was probably a waste of time / money but here's the new toy to test out... suppose to handle 17 volts and do 5k++watts... we'll see... I'll be doing some bench testing this week (and yes just testing I have no intention of keeping the amp, unless it suprises me) some pics

so im going to start this off with the type of car i have its a 95 mazda millenia s this would be the start of my future big install i purchased a stinger svmb volt meter my goal was to make it look as factory as possible , and since the car does not come with a factory volt reading, if i ever sell it this can be a added feature, so this is why i am wanting to make it look factory. so 1st came figure-ing out the location in the dash so after careful thinking decided the best possible location would be in the upper left hand corner of the dash this is wer the factory alarm light is located and since i dont have a factory alarm is a empty spot and perfec…

Gonna be using this for my sub amp, probably on a new eclipse sw8000 10" until my Diyma 12" comes in.

I realize there will be hate to follow, but whatever it's no big. I'm very happy with it.

Picked this thing up from Finebar over at crapaudio.com Overhead Angle Imputs Outputs And some pr0n for all you pervs As required by the TOS, my dog. Only took pics of 1 dog because if i take pics of my black dog he just looks like a blob. Bell The quality of the pictures isnt the greatest because its a 1.3MP camera and it has no flash.

1rst is my old USAcoustics 2200f plans for it will be for tweeters 200X2 @ 4ohms 2nd is A newly bought (brand new in box) USAcoustics 2300f planed for mids 300X2 @ 4ohms 3rd is A Sundown Audio unnamed prototype for the sub stage 1400 @ 1ohm If you haven't guessed it I have plans to go active but that could be a long ways away as money is kinda tight. But it should be a fun project. I will be posting for some recommendations for speakers but that is a long ways away as I need to get the electrical built up and some sound deadening first.

Father and son!

Old school yumminess

http://www.jvc.ca/en/consumer/product-deta...model=KW-AVX706 Buddy of mine gave me a price of $775CDN. What do you guys think? Going to have to do a little modifying to my dash to fit the 2din in the 1.5din opening, no biggy. Dremel, fibreglass, and elbow grease are my friend

So my knew 220 anp alternator came in I cant fully test it cause Auto Zones tester only goes up to 100 amps but it's working fine as far as I can tell. Here's my problem my 2002 Taurus Idle stop is set around 900 RPM (no dimming out of gear) holding at the 100 mark on Auto Zones meter but when I put my car in gear the RPM drop tp 550 to 600 only giving me an output of 68 amps so if I'm at a stop light I get slight dimming. I did a eye test and left my interior lights on and the get super bright when I get to about 1400 to 1600 (not exactly sure cause the guage isn't that defined) with absolutly no dimming. Has any one else had this gear engaged problem and can it be solv…

Little update for anyone who has not lost interest yet.... I spoke to someone at XS Power today about my options. I explained my situation, and was told that the D1200 will provide more power than the Optima Red Top, however using the Red Top along with a D680 will provide more power than just a D1200. The larger XS batteries will not fit the vehicle correctly. Either too large, or the wrong orientation for the terminal polarity. XS was very honest with me saying that the Red Top + D680 would work very well since I already have the Red Top. Since I don't have easy access to XS batteries, I grabbed a 20L-BS AGM power sport battery off the shelf which has similar dimensions…

Yesterday while I was driving, my amps cut off and today I found out is was my saz1500 causing a short in my remote wire. I pulled it out and looked at the inside and it looks to be some solder in between my remote and ground terminal touching. I've email dbr but I probably won't get a response today because it's Sunday. I was thinking I could just remove the solder but my question is what would cause this to happen and would it happen again?

I was driving to work and all the sound went off. So when I got to work I turned on the radio, went in the trunk and checked the amps for power and they were getting none. I am guessing that the problem is with the remote. If the remote on the head is in fact dead is there a way to fix it. Is it an easy thing, like maybe a trace on the circuit board? Or is it a big PITA? Could it be something else? What would make both amps suddenly stop getting power?

Cruising around and bam battery light. Checked voltage, amp terminals, alt post, and batts. All checked out. Cranked the bass, voltage was dropping to 11.9 when the day before just dropped to 13.2. I have a dual alt kit. I unplug my primary and boom 12.9. I gotta check a few fuses and relays but I believe it just died completely. It's a tenney 270amp but I'm gonna probably get mechman or someone to rebuild it. If not ill grab me a hairpin 380!!!! Kinda sucks cause I was about to buy an iPad to glass into my dash.