Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Okay about 6 months ago i hit the power cable on my amp and it fried the amp... i had to turn the gain way up to get the same output voltage. Anyways i didnt think much of it but i just spent 610 on a new sub and amp and do not want to mess anything up. Last week i checked the preout voltage and it was at 2.3v... its suppose to be 4. (deh-p590ib) Should i replace it. Do you think theres anyway it will cause amp clipping or distortion to ruin my speakers/amps/subs. I have used my system atleast 30 min a day for the past 6 months like this without any damage and there is no noticeable distortion, but i really dont want any of my new stuff to **** up a year from now thanks

hey guys, i can't seem to find anyone selling digital batter voltage displayers for car sound systems on ebay. it will be necessary for my car since i will be running stockk electrical for a while until i can buy a h/o alt or battery. does anyone know where i can pick one up for cheap? my buddy has one of the later model pioneer head units which works really well (the one with the big knob that controls everything), and i would totally buy it, the only problem is that i'm putting the sound system in a 98' bmw 328i and the blue headunit looks a bit cheesy with the dark orange lights bmw uses for the cluster and buttons...can anyone help me?

Looking for budget amplifier to power a 12" SSA DCON subwoofer SVC or DVC 4-ohm (1.2 cu ft sealed to spec). I would like a class d amplifier rated at about ~300w rms clean (give or take, this is a low power budget system). Any ideas?

In the coming weeks, I'm going to need to install: MB Quart 5.25 component set, Orion 8002, Orion 1200D, and ReSX 15" into a Mazda 6. For anyone that has seen the stock HU on the 6, You'll know that I'm NOT replacing it. I'm not gonna cut and glass a new console cover for just a HU, not too mention that we would lose functionality of a in dash LCD display (showing ambient temp, radio station / disc info), as well as inset steering wheel controls. To top it off, this car belongs to somone who cares very little about the SQ & control gains of a nice aftermarket HU. Plan is to tap the rear door speaker leads and run them into an EQ/Xover preamp. I'd rather have a EQ/X…

Well im looking to get a new HU since the cda-9813 i bought in the classifieds section doesnt play cds. ive been looking at the cda-105 but would like to get some of yalls input. would like to stay below 250

so im looking into the Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS and wondering if i have to buy the ipod adapter http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/p...7492523,00.html b/c im not sure if have to have the adapter for that headunit. thanks

well i got my SAZ 1500d in the mail a few days ago... and now i have my 1/0 gauge Tsunami amp kit to replace the 4 gauge from my old sub amp... so now i am getting ready to install it all, i was just wondering if anyone had any good sugestions on where to set the subsonic and the LPF knobs ? and i a guessing to leave the phase off.. this amp is to run my 15" Xcon.. it is in a 4 cubic feet box ported to 32 hz.... i figured there would be someone here who could get me close..

Ok, I just got this amp from a friend, I was unaware I needed a 300 amp fuse for it, but I hooked it up anyway without one. It works fine without the fuse, but Kicker plainly states it needs the 300 amp fuse. So, I go to a local shop and buy the Kicker fuse holder and a 250 amp anl fuse, they did not have 300 amp fuses so I figured 250 was better than nothing. Also, Kicker recommends 1 gauge minimum, I have 2 gauge power and ground in the car now, I plan to upgrade ALL wire to 1 gauge, but my question is, will the 2 guage hurt the amp while I am scrounging money for wire? I noticed that the right side of the amp gets hot, the Kx lines are supposed to have fans in them so …

I have a 86 150 with a 5.0 in it. It came stock with a 60 amp alternator. My neighbor gave me box full of stuff he took off of a 94 mustang 5.0 H.O. One of the parts happend to be a stock 130 amp alternator. Since i need to get a bigger alternator anyways and strapped for cash i figured i can use this alternator. Its a direct bolt in, but the plugs are different though. My stock one has 2 plugs instead of the one plug. But one of the plugs on my wiring harness is the same style plug on the new(er) one. So wat i did is that i plugged(sp) in the plug that looked the same and hooked up a 4 guage power wire directly to my battery. Installed it and cranked it over, i…

I have a Kenwood KDC X996 and it gets super hot after about 10 minutes or more of playing at volume 25 or 26 out of like 35 like cook an egg hot. I wired it using just tape an made sure it's connected good. The ground is connected to factory wire..Could it be the ground, RCA's?? ..no aftermarket amp and using stock speakers

What's up yall. I'm new to this. I have a 08 double cab Toyota Tacoma for right now. Might get rid of it. Electrical is big 3 upgrade, zues lithium 10-ah, 0 Guage copper ofc wire. Amps, ampere 75.4 and rockford t1500.1bdcp. 4 6.5 dream series 6.5s. Ampere 3.0 v3 12 4th order 2.5/1 ratio tuned to 47hz. Amp is goin out due to friend I let use ran on poor electrical at .5 ohms not knowing so. Sub is locked up due to when it was upgraded motor wasn't torqued right and shifted. Will fix in the future but I'm set on getting a supercharged dd 3500 series 12 next. Will be running 2 in the future as well but buying only 1 to run next year. Also upgrading amp and trying to decid…

i was reading the .5 wiring thread a while ago and somethin hit me that i'm curious about. The opti2000d by lanzar is the only amp they have that is 0.5ohm stable The Saz-1500d\3000d "used to" have 0.5 ohm warranty coverage until... well anyways. The opti2000d is 0.5 stable all day every day. Is this the case with SAZ amps as well or are they just lenient on below 1 ohm stability? The opti is the only class d amp i know of that is guaranteed to be stable at 0.5 ohms, so curious about this.

so... i was at BestBuy the other day. just looking. and came across the cda-117. ive always liked the look of the unit and the fact that it has 4v pre-outs... well, i looked at the price and it said $177 clearance. (this means once they are out... they're out) so get it while you can! i was like WHAT!?! so i bought it on an impulse buy. lol. its about #50 from Crutchfield. and lowest i can find is about @285 from an UN-authorized dealer. http://www.crutchfield.com/s_500CDA117/Alpine-CDA-117.html?search=cda-117&skipvs=T SO... if you guys are looking for a nice HU on the cheap, go snatch this up! i was honestly gonna buy the other 2 they had when i got my paycheck and r…

I always have in the past but I'm starting to upgrade to more and more powerful systems. The price difference between a run of 1/0 from ebay, to knu conceptz, to using welding wire is a huge. Anyone know if the ebay stuff has the same copper content and adequate insulation?

I'm looking into the 8455, but Eclipse has the worst site in the world with little info. I'm wondering if the aux input is direct connection, or do you need an adapter like on Pioneer and Alpine? Also, anyone friends with any dealers that will ship to me? The local dealer here is horrible and I refuse to give them my business. Thanks!

I kow that I've asked some of these questions before, but a few ideas came to my head this morning since I'm not satisfied with the results. Equipment: 10" AA Arsenal Sealed enclosure Factory Headunit 1 Stinger LOC 1 ZED Minilith Here's the deal. Everything is connected well. I have a good ground, wires, and RCA's. The sub is getting a bit of a warble sound to it a low volumes (I'm sure it is still there when the volume is up,but the music is covering it up). In order for me to get any output in this sucker, the gain has to be almost all the way up and I don't like that. Something is wrong. Here is what I've been thinking... I really think that a four channel LOC would be…

I currently have a 230 amp alternator for my 04 Honda civic. im putting 2 n215 btl's in my trunk with a 3875 watt amp. i have im not sure what kind of battery i have now but its new and standard (nothing special). will i need to pick up another battery or 2 to put into the trunk? if so would i be better off adding them after the subs are installed or wire them at the same time?

I need a new 2 channel to drive some 6.5"s in the doors. I need something on the small side and not looking to spend a lot. Mind you I don't want some Walmart brand $30 specials either. Anyway, back in the day I had a Soundstream Lil' Wonder amp. Loved that thing to death. I know several of the bigger companies back when I got into car audio (late 80's ish) have really gone downhill in terms of build and quality. I came across a Rubicon 2.250 that will fit the space requirements and the power I need. Not familar with anything they have made in the past few years. Are they still pretty decent? Not looking to compete or anything like that. Just looking for something …

I ordered 1 guage wire and it should be in soon. I have 8guage running to my 2channel now that was drilled through my firewall. Is there any other ways to get such a large wire through? Id rather not put that big of a hole in my vehicle. What are my options? As always all help is very much appreciated

I'm planning a build and i'm thinking about amp placement. I know that amps should be grounded around 18" or less but i've seen builds where the grounds are four plus feet, anyone care to shed light on this, is it ok if excellent wire is used? BTW the build was from a person whos name that can't be mentioned.

I'm insatalling a entire system in my 2000 honda accord. I have the following components so far: Jl audio 300/4 sundown saz-1500d 2 jl audio 12w6v2d4's focal 165 v2's mb quart psc216 The only thing i need now is a head unit. I really want the avh-p4300dvd but i don't need a dvd player and i'm worried the car may get broken into for the headunit as it's not detachable. I could tint the windows but that's adding to the cost. I would be willing to get a single din unit but i don't see any nice ones out there. Can you guys make some suggstions on what a good single din unit it for around 150-200 range? The only thing i want it to have is Ipod interface and for me to able to c…

Right so im gonna be running an mb quart q150 4 chan amp and a sundown 3500. what i want to do is run the 4 chan off of the stock alt/electrical with big 3 and a yellow top. a friend of mine has a 190 amp alt that he wants to sell me and hes also machinist so he can make brackets and whatever i would need to do this so mounting shouldnt be a problem. i want to have the 2nd alt isolated from the cars electrical and simply dedicated to a bank of batteries (couple kinetic hc2400's or there abouts) he said the alt is internally regulated to 14.8 v. so i guess the question is.. is there anything wrong with running the 2nd alt like this? any hickups or potentially dangerous pro…

any suggestions for an amp for a 18 BTL ????

Made a video to show everyone whats its doing. The amp has been hooked up and running fine for a couple weeks now. Out of no where the amp starts cutting in and out today. When it does, it goes into protect mode. I checked every wire from the battery back and all are good. I even pulled the headunit and checked all connections there too. So here is what happens: Amp cutting in and out while I was running errands today. So I turned the radio off until I go home. When I got home I pulled out all my tools and DMM and checked everything. All is well. But now, the amp is on, not in protect mode, and I get zero output to the subs. Yes, I checked the subs wiring too. I noticed w…

here soon i will be getting another amp most likely a sundown, and the amp i am running now i will be running 2 gauge wire and im wondering when i get my other amp if i should use a distribution block or run more wire??