Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I currently have a rockford 1500.1 amplifier, 2 12" fi q's a power acoustik 5 farad capacitor and a stinger sp 680 car audio battery. I have been having problems with the amplifier and am not sure what it is thats wrong or what I can try next or if the amp is possibly deffective. the amp is currently turned up a little less than half way and when I put the base all the way up on the head unit and turn the volume up about 3/4 the way up the amp will shut off. The red light does not come on to put the amp into protection or anything just the amp turns off than back on a few seconds later. I have upgraded the big 3 with 4 gauge wire and ran 0 gauge wire from the battery back…

I have a 90 amp alt and will be driving a 12 btl with a dtr1 2200d soundstream amp that as a 200 amp fuse and a audiobahn a6601t that as 80 amp fuse i have a 3 farad cap and im going to buy a back up battery but i dont know wich one yet i will also buy an isolator but im wainting to see if i have to change my alternator...everything is going to be wired with 0 gauge and i changed my car battery ground and my motor ground for 0 gauge and added a extra wire from my alt to my batt. wainting for ya reply to get this thing loaded

Well i think i will need a new amp kit, I am using a cheap 4ga ( American accessories ). But I just upgraded amps. I will be running an AudioQue 1200d, and Kicker 350.4 with a kinetik HC 800 in the trunk. I am leaning towards a Kicker amp kit, and a knu concepts. Will 4ga be enough?

okay so heres the deal. i have 2 ssa icons, thinking (going to buy) adding 2... more so here: 4 SSA icons 12's i need amps to power them. i'm looking at spending $750 (about) for amps (would love to only run 2) was thinking about hifonics brutus but after reading some posts they seem like garbage. what amps? another question would be nice to be answer is: how would you go upon hooking up 2 subs to a single monoblock? is it as simple as twisting wires togeather or is it no advised to do such thing.

http://hypnoticusa.com/vertigo_amplifiers.htm When they say "rated power" I assume that means RMS and not Max, correct?

does anyone know if this amp can do 0.5 ohm daily?

Amp Name: Audiopipe AP-30001D Specs: 2000w @ 4Ω 3000w @ 2Ω Pictures (required): Reference/Credit : Bigpimpin91

This may be a stupid question, but i want to be sure before i go and buy this. I want to run this amp(kicker zx200.4) for only one component set. I could just bridge it so it does 100 watts x2 at 4 ohms, right? or is bridging a 4 channel to a two channel not a good idea? thanks

big thanks to rob. http://www.dcpowerinc.com/ Here are some pics of the alternator. goes in here more pics and video coming soon, just waiting on some terminals

I was wondering if anyone can help me with this. I drive a 2005 colorado with a HO 200amp alternator with a deka intimidator group 34 under the hood and 2 group 31's in the bed. The big 3 is done in 0 gauge, Two runs of 0 gauge to the rear batteries. I measured the voltage at the amp. At 1/2 tilt I was at 13.4 at idle, as soon as I turn it down it jumps back to 14.4. As soon as I crank it to full tilt it drop to 11.6 at idle. My amp is saz3000d at 1ohm. I think I covered everything. Do I have a problem somewhere or do I just need more. I didn't want to piss the neighbors off too much because so I will have to measure the voltage again at 2000 rpm to see how much differenc…

1. I ordered the Us amps merlin md1, and it says on their site it has 4 gauge awg terminals, but i also ordered the 1/0 gauge from knu, so my question is will it still fit/work? Or can you use any size wire for any amp? 2. Also, can someone link me to where you can buy the steve meade custom woofer from AA, or tell me if it's any good? 3. LASTLY lol: would you recommend a single fi bl 12 or 15 for mainly rap and hip hop? Thanks.

i plan on buying a sundown 2000D mono amplifier .. they will be powering 2 12 inch FI BLs and at 1 ohm. i have a stock alternator and battery and i wanna know how i should go about this. i know caps are bogus ive read the forums so i was thinking about replacing the stock battery with a kinetic one. would this be enough or would i need more ? i strained the alternator on my last car to the point were i cudnt start the car anymore i deffinitly dont want that happening again. all help is apreciated

I just had a fun time fixing my charging system today so i thought i spill some info out there for ya. When you look at an alternator, you must understand it's purpose and how it will safely work. An alternator basically keeps your battery(ies) charged. In car audio, we usually tend to buy a H.O. alt because it will help run the system and\or keep the battery(ies) charged but it's not that easy! There are things you must know or damage can occur to your alt or batt(s)! 1 - If purchasing a H.O. alt, do NOT purchase only based upon what size you need to run your car audio install! BIG NO NO! Why? Alternator's charge batteries, not just run stereo equipment! If you have a l…

Hey guys, Been a while, but it is warm again. I am going to a friends, and he is putting 6 cheap components in the back of his car temp. He has 1 amp which is a 2 channel amp. Should I do 3 a piece or should I bridge the amp? Should I do 6 off of it? Thanks Josh

The amp has 5x30amp fuses, so what type of cables and fuse should i use....I'm thinking 2 gauge cable from batt to distribution block and 4 gauge from block to amp what fuses should i use?....the dude at the local stereo shop said the amp will not actually pull 150amps and said i would only need a 120amp block and i think it had 2 60amp fuses in parallel or something like that IDK and what should i use near the batt, the same?

I checked my battery, nothing is touching + and - I checked the amp, the power wire and ground fit nice and snug with no loose strands The amp worked last night......all i did was unhook wires, move it to the trunk and hook the wires back up....I'm at a loss The only thing i can think of is its somehow shorted in the amp, but i didn't shake, tip, etc. since last night...i don't think the power wire is cut since i turned the car on and the fuse in the engine bay is fine. I have an AQ1200D and two SDC2.5 subs by the way.

So to get any decent volume out of my new sub, i have to have the gain on my new amp really high.....too high and the bass boost up pretty far too. I know the RCAs arent the best, and its a sony HU.....but still, any ideas?

I was wondering how good his amp would be http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13492_...SC+1000.1.html# Ive never really used the MB quart amps, I see it is made by MaxxSonics though

Well I am trying to get a system back up and running, and am in need of an amp. I am looking for something that can do 1000-1200 watts rms at 1ohm stable, and have the unfortunately low budget of around $200 shipped I currently drive a 2005 Scion Xa. 160 amp H/O alternator. It has all knukonceptz speaker wire, rca's and distribution blocks. 0g big 3 upgrade and 0g power and ground wires. A Panasonic CQ-C7205U head unit. I run an Alpine PDX 100.4 for my infinity reference components in front and coaxials in the rear. 2 Elemental Designs 13Ov.2's dual 4 ohm subwoofers in a custom 2ft3 sealed enclosure. they are 600 watts rms each, and I have them wired to a 1ohm load. …

I installed an Avital Avistart 4400 today and I'm having a simple problem. I am just using the alarm features, so I did not hook up anything for remote start. Upon testing the unit, when I ope the door, it activates and the display on the remote shows door intrusion. I cannot get this to stop even after disarming the system. Do I have to have the remote start hooked up so it will read an ignition cycle and reset the alarm so my LED stops blinking and remote shows normal status? Thanks in advance.

well im about to start my new build some time next week hopefully and im trying to get my electrical squarred away this weekend so here it goes. i recently recieved my new amp (cactus 5kw), and i know it is going to need alot of juice so my plan is to 1.) upgrade my starting battery to a decent car audio battery (everstart maxx, walmart style now) 2.) do my big 3 in 0 ga (haven't done that yet) 3.) run 0 ga to the trunk 4.) one battery in the trunk for sure (d3100) and possibly another if i need it. so far my knu koncepts cart looks like this: 2, 0ga amp kits(for the extra wire, 250amp fuses), 4, battery terminals, 2, 200 amp fuse(for alt and rear batt.), 10 foot of 10ga…

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13356_...VIC-F700BT.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9027_E...0+-+AVN52D.html at first i was planning on getting the pioneer, then i realized the 2v preouts on the pioneer vs. the 5v preouts on the eclipse. security code on eclipse vs. no security code on pioneer. but are there any known mechanical problems with the eclipse since it is a motorized faceplate and the pioneer isnt? my friend has the 6620 and his cd always gets stuck.

My car has a stock 78amp alternator, but I will be swapping in a 140 amp alternator from a different car. (car is an 87 Buick regal, new alternator will be from 90's caprice). Will this upgrade be enough to run an ed NINe.1 at 1ohm without adding more batts? The amps max draw is 160amps, but not sure what it will draw under normal use. I have the big 3 done in 4 gauge and a regular battery.

I have an alpine mrv850d. 2ohm stable, but i just ordered a pair of d4 subs. so i can run them at 1 or 4. what will happen if i run at 1ohm? i know i ran my hifonics goliath and ED 9.1 below 1ohm with no problems. randomly my 9.1 would go into protect but if i shut it off for a second it was fine. but ive never owned a Mainstream amp like alpine

Ive already got a yellow top and a kinetik 2400. wondering what kinetik would compare to either a yellow top or red top