Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So I am in the market for some batteries. I like the Kinetik, however they are a bit rich for my blood at the moment. $699CDN for a single battery is a little steep. I have access to Stinger and Shuriken batteries at a really good price. The Shuriken batteries look to have similar specs with the Kinetik. I'm just looking for some opinions from others on these batteries. I am looking at the following batteries: 1) Kinetik HC2000 (x4) (one under the hood) 2) Kinetik HC2400 (x3) + HC800 under the hood 3) Shuriken SK-BT100 (x4) (one under the hood) 4) Shuriken SK-BT120 (x3) + SKBT35 under the hood While at Performance World I talked with someone at the Kicker truck about what…

Trying to figure out what size alternator I'm going to need and how many batteries I'll need. I'm figuring at least a 250 amp alt and 2 D3100 powermasters, plus a yellow top under the hood. Will be running a Clif Designs 4800.1lx and probably a Sundown 100.2 or 125.2. Is there a way to calculate what I'll need or is this all a guessing game?

I'm curious as to what I could upgrade to with my current electrical system. I currently have zero issues with voltage at full tilt with all lights and a/c on blast, steady 14.0 with my AB PH-4000 and Lanzar Vibe 231 (ick, yes eww) I have two group 65's and a group 29 ran with zero, big three with 200a alt. Batts are under backseat, so pretty short runs in my mountaineer. I used less than 30ft of wire (direct runs both positive and negative). How can I estimate this myself for future reference?

I need some advice on my amp and hu settings. I have polk momo 6.5's running off of a zx200.4, bridged to 100.2. I have to turn my hu up to around 58 out of 62 for them to be decently loud, but i want them to be louder at a lower volume so i dont clip. I have the gains all the way off. when i go to set the amp up with my dmm, should i just put the volume at 45 out of 62 because the gain setting tutorial says put the volume about 3/4 the way up? Also, there are two gain settings on my amp. would i set each one up independently? And my final question is when i set up my amp, should i set the hu settings such as the high pass filter before i tune it? thanks for the help!!!

http://i39.tinypic.com/1z1v76f.jpg Woudld this be the best way to wiring (4) 4ohm subwoofers down to 1 ohm. Or are their any other possibilities.

i blew up my old 2000 watt brutus today and are in the market for a new amp...looking for roughly 1600-2000 real watts not the PA type chit. looking for opinions on the audiopipe ap1500's and also on the audiopipe woofs. always looking for new stuff

I picked up a new starting battery today. I replaced my old volcano type battery with a Diehard Gold AGM Group 34. I picked it up for 141.00, now down to 131.00. My research tells me that these are rebranded DEKA's, which should be good quality. It seems that Group 31's are the rule for battery banks, but I can't squeeze in three batteries. Would 3 diehard gold group 34's plus one up front be enough reserve for 5-5.5 kW? I know XS's are king, but I need to save where I can. I will also have a MECHman 220A installed as soon as I get in new battery terminals. P.S. Anyone have personal experience with diehard gold AGM's?

I'm interested in a 14v setup, I'm not sure how many batteries I'll need since they're only 50ah. I have a 320a Mechman externally regulated alt. I will be running 4 3500's at .5 each. My car starts freaking out at around 15v, so a 16v setup with a stepdown is a must, but I'm not sure how many I need for my car/accessories to run since the ones from XS are only 50a maximum.

At one point in time there was a link to a calculator someone had made to just plug in your rms and impedance and get what the voltage ac you should see when setting the gain on your amp. anybody know where that is i wanna bookmark it to my computer. and yes i have already read the sticky on how to set gain. im just trying to get this as a bookmark. thanks

i thought i ordered 3 fi q series in the dual 2 ohm series, but some how i got the 1ohm instead..not sure if i made that mistake or if FI sent me the wrong ohm load..and im not here to lay blame..it is what it is not a big deal or something for me to cry about..my problem is this..i was going to wire them to my Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400.1D 4 ohms: 850 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 1700 watts x 1 chan. 1 ohm: 2400 watts x 1 cha the guy doing my instal said with these subs im looking at a little under a .5 ohm load, but when i check with the 12volt web page it says 0.67 so not far off i guess, my question is, can i try running this amp at.5 ohm? anyone have any experience with thi…

so is a second stock alt going to be as good as an ho alt?? the town i live in has an auto program at college that i can get a alt from a junk yard for $$22.00 and they well clean up and run through it for me, (im waiting on a call back from them to se if they can recoil it as well) and they have a fabricating shop that for the price of materials well make a mounting bracket also i know that there are alot of car audio specific companys that make batteries, but would 1 everlast maxx 1N under hood(replace stock) and 4 in back(total 5) be just as good as 3 audio batteries? i can get the ELmaxx1N's for 89.99 apeice so like 450.00 for 5 batts?? just woundering

like the title states i am looking for something that will do 1200-1500 @2ohm. i have not payed attention to the amp market for some time now and i dont even know where to start looking. doesnt have to be top of the line but i am looking for a good cost to performance ratio... can you guys help me out?

im looking at upgrading my system. im planing on useing 1 bl 12 and was looking at using a hifonics bxi1606d or a bxi2006d. which would be better to power the bl? and what options would i need? or is there another amp around the same price range as the hifonics that would be better to use?

I have a JVC KW-NX7000. I have had it for years and love it. I recently got a Sony Xperia Ion cell phone. My goal is to get things like Netflix on my HU screen for passengers to watch netflix or browse youtube videos on my lunchbreak, etc. The phone has a mini-hdmi output. The HU has an open RCA( audio/video) auxiliary input. So far I can't find a cable that converts it. What is a good solution?

Hi. I'm looking into head units and came across a Pioneer MVH-P8200...I noticed in the specs it states 2v output, is this too low? I'm planning on running a sax-125.2 and 1 or 2 sae-1200dv2 (eventually just one more powerful amp). How would this affect power output at the amps and gain settings? Thanks.

Looking to purchase a good amp kit to power my SAZ 1500d. I was looking at the Kolossus 1/0 Amplifier Installation Kit on Knukonceptz.com, but I'm open to suggestions/brands. Thanks for the help.

hey guys my amp was workin then it went on protect. now all it does is led goes on then protect keeps blinking when ever i turn my stereo on i have it hooked up to a 18 solo x thanks if you can help.

ive seen people around here with them. where did you get yours and could you estimate a price? i have found some for $370 and $380. just wondering if there were any cheapers ones out there withought sacrificing quality. Thank you, Matt Cusack

So my amp keeps cutting off the power to my subs. It mainly occurs when I try to get my subs louder. It didn't do this as often a month ago. I think it was after a day of delivering pizza with it bumpin all day, amp got hot and my fuses blew, I believe ever since then it's been acting like a wimp. I'm wondering a few things I have stock electrical system, would the amp protect itself because its supply is inadequate? my subs run 300rms my amp runs 900rms, did I ruin my subs which is causing my amp to protect itself? (that would be awesome, been tryin to swap them out but gotta hurt em first) whatever it is, it keeps randomly protecting itself and when I turn my HU off…

I just bought a brand new sound ordnance 4 channel amp and am still waiting for a new set of speakers for my car. in the meantime I decided to test out a pair of some old alpine type r 6.5s I pulled out of my old car. they don't fit so I put them in a hasty cardboard box to put in the backseat. after installing the amp and hooking up the speakers as rears with the rcas and unplugging my rear stock speakers the alpine hooked up to the amp weren't playing at all. I remember these speakers were working perfectly before and have just been sitting in my house since. I made sure everything was wired properly, the amp turns on, protection light doesn't go on or anything and I ju…

This May sound simple to some but wanted some clarification. I am installing two batteries in my trunk. How they will have to be installed will require me to put about a five foot piece of wire between the positive connections. I will be fusing before first battery where it entered trunk location and fusing after second battery before amp connection. My question is should I install fusing after the first battery and then install a second fuse before it connects to the second battery or will one fuse between them be sufficient?

Okay about 6 months ago i hit the power cable on my amp and it fried the amp... i had to turn the gain way up to get the same output voltage. Anyways i didnt think much of it but i just spent 610 on a new sub and amp and do not want to mess anything up. Last week i checked the preout voltage and it was at 2.3v... its suppose to be 4. (deh-p590ib) Should i replace it. Do you think theres anyway it will cause amp clipping or distortion to ruin my speakers/amps/subs. I have used my system atleast 30 min a day for the past 6 months like this without any damage and there is no noticeable distortion, but i really dont want any of my new stuff to **** up a year from now thanks

Would I need a H/O alternator or another battery to run an AQ2200D? The stock one is 150amp and im looking to either run an HDC3 18" or FI BTL 15" in an 02 Trailblazer.

Is there a way to run a h/o alt for just the stereo and its batteries AND keep the stock for truck functions only? Looking at 200 amp alt for the system and it seems no one has any idea if this will work. I can make the bracket and pully, I've got a lathe and CNC here so no problem there, but I would like to solve this issue and how much I have to chit out to make it work. Should I just bolt up a couple of big junkyard GM's and call it a day? Any ideas??

So I got one of these off ebay and unlike the stinger one it only has 2 wires. And if I was to hook it up straight to power it would be on all the time. Was thinking of either running it off the ignition wire that triggers the head unit to turn on or running it off a switch so I could turn it off. Or do you guys think another way would be better.