Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I need some advice on my amp and hu settings. I have polk momo 6.5's running off of a zx200.4, bridged to 100.2. I have to turn my hu up to around 58 out of 62 for them to be decently loud, but i want them to be louder at a lower volume so i dont clip. I have the gains all the way off. when i go to set the amp up with my dmm, should i just put the volume at 45 out of 62 because the gain setting tutorial says put the volume about 3/4 the way up? Also, there are two gain settings on my amp. would i set each one up independently? And my final question is when i set up my amp, should i set the hu settings such as the high pass filter before i tune it? thanks for the help!!!

Has anybody heard of using a Stetsom 7KD for daily use? What kind of power is it really capable of putting out?

Well, the price was just too good. I went along and got the Visonik and love how it looks. Old school red colour to it, and its pretty damn big. Looks like my next step will to be getting those Icons. Might take a few guts pictures when I get home after work today, wasnt enough time in the morning for it.

I had a guy offer me a Kinetik HC600 for $30 today. He said it was in good condition and everything, just trying to get rid of all his old equipment for his new build. Are these things any good, and is this a good price for one? I was planning on getting an extra battery for my trunk soon anyway so this may help.. what do you guys think?

My system is currently running active with a 9886, h100 and is powered by an alpine mrp-f250 [email protected] @4 ohm, my speakers are focal access series components(minus the passive crossovers). I have an Eclipse 3242 that I thought was a good amp, but turns out to have some issues. I bought the eclipse for $75 about a year ago and it's been sitting. It looks pretty beefy internally and has alot of fusing (4x20a) making me wonder if it's underated. It's rated [email protected] 4 ohm. And 55x4 @13.8v @4 ohm. I have a friend that can mess with it and hopefully fix it for around $20. I have three options that I would like help with. I can keep using the f250, fix the eclipse and use it,…

I have a simple quick question. If i wire my new kinetik 2400 in parallel to my stock car battery will i be fine with my 3000 watt amp? some people are saying i must get an isolator and others not. and i have no idea if it will damage anything or not. and no i wont be playing music without the car on

I'm looking for a deck that has the same style built in crossover as my CDA-9886 for my girlfriend's car. She likes the built in crossover feature of my deck, but wants something different. Any recommendations?

I have heard that a big solid chunk of wire has alot of resistance so thinking along those lines I was wondering if using a wire adapter was bad or not. In case you don't know what I am talking about I am talking about reducing for example 1/0 guage to 4 guage by using one of these http://www.cardomain.com/item/STIS04ADAPT

What does anyone and everyone think of this headunit.I dont mean looks or price i mean sound and quality?

which amp do i need...i am most likely gonna go with the 2 12" BTL's....Thanks in advance. also wat is the peak powers for the BTL's? and the rms is like 2000??...right?. that sounds pretty damn high! lol ...well that is wat the website said. THANKS!!!!

I know to add up all my amps fuses and the total is my in-line fuse size. My question is about fusing at the db block. I've read in a previous thread on here to fuse under never over( i.e. 180A = 150A). I have an amp (US Amps USA-150) that requires fusing at 75A. It has 2 inputs for positive and 2 inputs for the ground wires. Can I use a 40A + 30A = 70A fuse in my db block or will it affect anything being different sizes and under the fuse rating? Thanks and have a Happy New Year!

just wondering how many runs of 0ga power wire will i need for my system it will be in my 97 expedititon it will have either 4 rockford fosgate amps or 5 sundown amps... fosgate wise 2 2500bds and a 1000.4 and a 400.2 ....and sundown 2 2500ds and 3 125.2s.... batts will be 4 xs power d3100 and a ho 270 amp alt. im only askin sence it has been so long and all my systems till now have never needed more than 1 run of 0ga wire

For the last two weeks i've been looking around forums and sites at all car audio equipment, i'm doing ok just need some help i've learnt alot, but still a long way to go! I'm from the UK as i've said a few times so i don't know if anyone can help me the majority of people here all go for Sundown and Fi, which i would love to have but i don't know atm. a Q 12" would cost in dollars 500 for me or 274 pound (With BP) and the 1500d amp would be 400 pound/ 730 dollar so thats 1230 dollar 8( YIKES! (674 pound) -- That's only 1 amp and 1 sub... I was wondering if there are any other brands you would recommend, i have looked at RS t1500-1bd and stuff All help appreciated, Pez

Ok, heres the deal. I have my Orion 4004 underneath my 2500D and it gets hot. How hot? Very hot. Hot enough to burn your hand. Hot enough to send it into protection after listening to it for 30 minutes. The components are bridged on it at 4 ohms. Many people have told me that it shouldn't be getting this hot. I think tomorrow I'm going to rewire it to only use 2 channels which will suck as far as power goes. I may also try to throw my planet audio vx3002 on it and see if it does the same thing. I have heard some things about orions not liking high input voltage but the gains are set about halfway. One other thing I am having problems with is at higher volumes (30/40) my …

i got a saz-2000 watt amp going to 4 kicker l5 15's, my electrical upgrades are 1 optima yellow top battery 2 runs of 1/0 gauge total 1 pos 1 neg, big 3 upgraded to 1/0 gauge, 200 high out put alt, and 1 die hard platinum p1 in the back, i will be running the amp at 1 ohm, people have told me that i should have much voltage drops others tell me i will, what do u guys think, and i want to get a voltmeter just incase how dou you wire it in

Ok I ran 0 gauge wiring for my saz-2500. I put a 250 amp inline fuse and as soon as I connected the negative terminal the inline fuse blew. So I pulled out the wiring to make sure it wasnt cut went it went through the firewall and disconnected the amp. Ran the wire outside the car without the amp connected and the fuse didn't blow. Connected the amp and the fuse blew once I connected the neg terminal. Faulty amp or am I missing something? Amp was a refurbished purchased from db-r.com. Any ideas I'd appreciate it.

I now run a PPI DCX 1000.1 running 2 IDQv3 subs. A shop in town has had this US amp MD23 sitting on the shelf for a few years now never been used and has marked it way down. Comparing the specs it seems like the US amp would be better for SQ but it is an A/B so the PPI is probably more efficient. PPI S/N 80%, US amp S/N 105%, PPI damping 50, US amp damping 600. I also like the fact that I can run my subs at 2ohms instead of 1 ohm. Anyways this is something I don't have to do but it would be nice to try something new. I don't want the US amp if it's going to drain my electrical system real bad. Any input would be greatly appreciated

Im thinking getting one of these amps. Has anyone had experience with this series?

Okay, just for fun and to satisfy my curiosity...... In your opinion, what is the best head unit? Best flip up head unit? by best i mean: sound quality (of course), functionality, easy to use, and lastly; curb appeal and looks.

This May sound simple to some but wanted some clarification. I am installing two batteries in my trunk. How they will have to be installed will require me to put about a five foot piece of wire between the positive connections. I will be fusing before first battery where it entered trunk location and fusing after second battery before amp connection. My question is should I install fusing after the first battery and then install a second fuse before it connects to the second battery or will one fuse between them be sufficient?

Alright here's my Dilemma, I have two head units an Alpine IdA-x200 and a Kenwood Excelon kdc-x589. I'm trying to determine which one is better. They both have their pros and cons starting with the Alpine. pros: Ipod support, good looking, ease of use, and usb support. Cons: 2v pre-outs, and for the kenwood Pros: 4 volt preouts, sounds great cd support, 2.5mm jack in. cons: no ipod support. I'm trying to determine which one to keep and give the other one to my father. Also i was told by a local shop owner who competed in world finals said that typically CDs tend to get louder than MP3's is this true? here's some more specs. Alpine: # digital media receiver (no built-in…

http://i39.tinypic.com/1z1v76f.jpg Woudld this be the best way to wiring (4) 4ohm subwoofers down to 1 ohm. Or are their any other possibilities.

I have a Autotek MM1400.1D and Autotek MM75.4 in my truck. I leave my truck parked for a few days at a time at school. The 1400 goes into protect mode when I turn my truck on after its been sitting for a few days (I leave the radio on all the time), but when I turn my radio off then on again everything is okay. I can turn the truck off and on after the amplifier is off of protect, and it turns on like normal. What could be the cause of this?

Anyone have any inside info or guesses as to when car audio manufacturers will be using Toslink cables for connections. Stepping up from a decent RCA cable to a fiberoptic cable made a noticible differnce in my HT set up.

1. Product: USP12-490MR High Rate Max Battery 2. Specs: See Link Below: http://www.dcbattery.com/dynasty-mr.pdf 3. Description/Condition: Item is in great condition and has only been used in one application for about a month and has been sitting in my garage for the last year and a half. 4. Price: : $200 Shipped 5. Pictures: See attachments