Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

ordered a 250A alternator Friday the 2nd. just got a email saying its on its way here. Mike Singer not only has killer customer service but the man doesnt mess around.

recently pruchased 3 sets up soundqubed pq mids looking for an amp that can power them much like everyone I am on a budget but i do not wish to sacrifice quality for price . Just having a hard time finding an amp that can fit these prequisites. any help is appreciated

I just installed a 10" xcon that can either be wired at .5 or 2 ohms. It is currently running on a jl audio jx 1000.1 so 1000w at 2 ohms but I really want to get a 2000w 2ohm amp. Having trouble finding a reliable amp that puts that power out at 2 ohms without breaking the bank!! Not sure if my electrical could handle .5 or id give that a shot.. I drive a mazda tribute stock 110 amp alt and stock battery... Don't really think I can do over 1000 @ 0.5ohm

Budget is 200 my eye is aimed on the crescendo 600.1 symphony between 600-750 rms is the power im looking for at 1ohm. Other amp was a ppi p1000.1 then my old faithful amp of choice mb quart(One of the series really haven't looked deeply into them.) Any other options I should look at for amps? Only thing im looking for is a efficient amp and the crescendos states 97% at 2ohms gets hot in the trunk in SC my father needs something that can pack a punch for a hour in the temps. Other information amp will be powering sa-8's V1. Electrical is strong for this power draw.

I was going to by the RF 3sixty.3 today, then noticed a JL clean sweep. From what I can gather the JL simply converts the signal, from a OEM head unit, to a flat signal then outputs to an amplifier. The RF360.3 will convert the signal, from a OEM head unit, to a user defined signal via the EQ functionality then outputs to an amplifier. If I purchase a RF360.3 how likely am I to give my amp, SAX100.4, a flat response? If I purchase a JL clean how likely am I to make that signal something other then flat? In other words for me, a person who doesn't compete but enjoys good quality, would I be better off with a JL or an RF? Also from what I have read, if I change the EQ…

After attending my first bass off in VA last weekend the bug has bitten. Car will be paid off this summer so it's time to start thinking about uprades. I'm not looking to dominate competitions, but I do wanna get way louder. Right now I'm thinking 2-3k would be good for me. Being that I'm running a 5 channel now I know I'll be adding a second amp for the highs. At this point, will an extra battery in back be enough, or do I need to start looking at HO alts? My stock Scion is only 80 amps. Just got a little tax money and would like to put it on something of value towards this. I found a few amps on Craigslist that sparked my attention, although after reading the Stetsom f…

Hi everyone, I have a 1993 lexus gs300. I'm relocating the battery to the trunk, purchasing a 200amp alternator, and doing a big 3 upgrade. I'm running two amplifiers (jl 1000/1 and a 300/4). So I figured at the least I'm going to need zero gauge coming back to the battery. Can someone here please advise me the correct way to run the positive wires? I was planning on running a positive 1/0 from battery to alternator and split it from there to the fuse box and starter. I'm trying to do this right while my engine is outside of the car so I do not encounter any electrical issues down the road.

So I sent in my alternator for repair and the message he sent me was, The rectifier was overheated and the rotor was open (this alternator design is very compact) I have everything broken down for a full rebuild other then the stator now. The stator is in perfect shape still and was never overworked. Just waiting on the parts to install them. So I don't know much on the process it takes to rebuild my alternator sui could someone she some light on this message he sent me.

Ok. I plan on putting 2 15" orion hcca subs in my car and would like to know a few things. I have 2 orion 25001d class amps for each and want to put only 2000 watts into each. So how many amps does my alternator needs to be and do i need more than one? And whats the best type of audio battery to use for under the hood and in the trunk? Thanks.

Does anyone know the diameter of the crankshaft pulley in a 1997 stock 5.7l 1500 chevy suburban? My suburban is in the shop right now getting the fuel pump replaced but i just wanted to know so i could go ahead and order a new alternator from mechman tomorrow. Thanks in advance!

So I have some free time coming up so I figured I would look into running a big 3 just to see if it makes any difference. Few questions... Is welding wire better for the big 3? Does the big three make any difference performance wise? I understand it helps with the dimming of the lights which will be good. If the big 3 works out I am thinking about getting maybe an optima yellow top for under the hood. Slowly trying to build up electrical.

Can it be done folks?

Enjoy Photos by HTC ONE M7 HDR

So i have 2 Earthquake PH5000/d1 amps running 4 FI SSD 15s. I have found a low popping noise in the speakers from 1 of the amps. When i unplug the RCA cables from it it gets louder. I tried switching the 2 amps and it stays on that one amp. I also have an audiocontrol in dash epicenter that can measure dbs. One night after i built the box i went for a test drive i was hitting 158 on it. the next day and since then i have not been able to hit above 155. Today i was outside messing with it and I unhooked the speaker wires from the amp that is popping and the subs on the other amp got louder. That was while the truck was running and music playing. So i hooked all 4 to the on…

So I mistakenly order a 4 Gauge and an 8 Gauge kit by accident of CCA from Knu. I was going to do a run of 4 gauge to the sub amp and 8 to the amp for the fronts. The sub amp is a Hifonics BRX2400.1D. Would the 4 Gauge be enough for just this amp?

Ok so with a sundown saz1200d its 12 volt ratting is 1200+ watts an something like 1400+ at 14 volt .. so when setting the gain to be some where safe would it be better to set it with the car running? I have the big 3 done an a hc1400 up front an a hc800 in the back...

Hi everyone got a quick question.which year did this cadence z7000 amp come out at. I remember buying one of these 3 years ago off ebay and end up getting my car broken into and lost the amp but I could never figure out which year they made this amp in the picture.

the amp arrived today, and I just fooled around with the buttons until I came up with something that sounded good. Between the Pioneer DEH-80etc. and this there's a lot more tweaking than in the old days! I have 4 sets of comps, one in each door so they're all identical. I also have a matching crossover box for each comp with sep. cables going to tweet & 6.5 mid. I do NOT want to bridge this. I want full control over all four comps to adjust for placement strength etc. But I will say this, after listening for an hour in my driveway the thing went into protection mode...already! At one point on the fader, fading to ALL front made the sound (except sub) vanish,…

Anyone have experience with that amp? Thinking about running 4 skar 6.5 midbass off this amp 1 in each door?

from my readings it was mentioned that remote turn on leads should be fused at .5A on all installs. is this standard practice today or was this directed at older decks? i have just never seen or heard of this until i read it. when using a LOC converter (factory head unit to power amps) i read it should be installed behind the deck. is there any reason against installing it off rear speakers in the trunk or else where in the car? assuming what ever speaker outputs you are going to are the right type e.g. not crossed over from the factory deck at an incorrect frequency for your application. edit: question about gains. when setting amp gains i was told that i should max ou…

Good Sunday everybody, its been awhile since I was last on here. Ive decided I wanted to get back into car audio, and I seen a deal on eBay hard to pass up. As Pioneer is loading out their "NEX" generation headunits it appears the older models are going for a good price. So I picked up a AVH-X5600BHS for my 2010 Dodge Challenger RT (with Boston Acoustic factory installed). I'm not very car audio inclined, so apologizes in advance if I sound off when describing my problem, or whats going on. Friday I got everything in mail from online purchases, all brand new. I got the PAC RP4-CH11 wiring w/ interface, a AVH-X5600BHS Pioneer Double Din, Aftermarket Harness + Antenna. …

http://www.head-fi.org/t/655315/v-moda-vamp-verza-metallo-discussion-feedback-reviews-pics-crowdsourcing-ideas Looks very interesting...

http://dayton.craigslist.org/ele/4406258714.html anyone ever ran one or had any experience with one?

Just ordered my ssa xcon 15 and was wondering if anyone has any recommendations as far as buying a pre built box or building my own??

who make a bass processor like the basscube