Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

simple question... if i remove the cover on my amp so the guts are showing under the plexiglass, and mount a pair of fans similar to this: http://74.175.101.66/dealer/itemdesc.asp?C...amp;eq=&Tp= one per side pushing/pulling to create good cross ventilation, do you think it would be adequate? I think that i am going to hang onto my mtx a little longer since for the price i can't really beat it, and since i don't really like the looks i wanted to try exposing the board. how dramatically will this affect the amps cooling capabilities?

does any one know were i could get a good 2000 watt amp i got $700 to spend i need it for my 2 rlp 12" i wanna try to get 1000 watts to each speaker what will i need to do this

I am having some problems with my amps cutting off. They aren't actually cutting off i guess(the green power light stays on)but the speakers or sub will cut off(depending on which amp cuts off) and when they come back on i can hear the amp click back on(same sound they make when i first start up my truck) so, i guess the amps might be cutting itself off for some reason maybe? they arent going into protect mode. It happens only when the volume was up a little. Before i installed my HC-800 they would cut off when the volume was around 18-20 of 35. Now that i installed the HC-800 i can turn it up to 21. Im running a kicker ZX250.2 for the door speakers and a ZX1000.1 for my …

O.K. I own a JL 300/4 and the amp has been cutting in and out. Sometimes the power light stays on but the music sounds as if it's muted. Other times the amp shuts down completly. The local shop that installed the amp ran 8 guage power and ground wires off my second battery in the rear (kinetic 800). Is the amp not getting enough current or is it dying? Any suggestions are appreciated. I'm thinking of saying screw the JL amps and going with Sundown! BTW the rest of my equipment is in my sig.

First of all, who all has had any experience with these amps? They are stable @ 2ohms for about 1200w. Just curious if they might be able to handle running @1.34ohms. I have a 200amp alt, big 3, and 2 red tops for an electrical system. Thx for the help.

I'm interested in a 14v setup, I'm not sure how many batteries I'll need since they're only 50ah. I have a 320a Mechman externally regulated alt. I will be running 4 3500's at .5 each. My car starts freaking out at around 15v, so a 16v setup with a stepdown is a must, but I'm not sure how many I need for my car/accessories to run since the ones from XS are only 50a maximum.

I will be running a 4-channel amp to run my mids/highs, so I'm looking into a 4-channel RCA set. I've heard people say that it really doesn't matter how good the quality of the cable is, and I've heard the opposite. How do you think these would perform? I have Amazon Prime, so $12.41 with 2-day shipping sounds pretty sweet. Are they worth it, or should I go with something else?

Due to my battery hookup location and the fact that it will be nearly impossible to get a 0 gauge wire on it unless I rewire the alternator and main power line toa new battery block, how bad would it be to run 4 gauge wire to a fuse block and 0 gauge afterwards? According to charts 4 gauge should be able to handle up to 300 Amos if it is a short length. So will battery —> fuse (4 gauge 1 ft long) —> distribution block (0 gauge guessing 13 ft long). Will this work ok?

Was wondering if theres anew Double Din HU out thats a suitable replacement for my AVIC Z2 in terms of the EQ and the Audio features it has. My outputs have went out so im running 2 hi low pac converters So im looking for something reliable and good. also navigation is a plus as well. Powering Type R 6.5s in the front and 6x9s with a mrx-f35 4ch amp.

I just purchased a sundown 100.4. I'm going to run 6.5's in the kicks and two 3 inch mid ranges in my front pillars. I am going to band-pass channel's 3&4 with the subsonic filter set at 150 hz then setting the Low pass frequency crossover at 4,500Hz for the 6.5. Then channels 1&2 would be set on High Pass and the High Pass Crossover set at 750Hz for my pillars. I will also be running tweeters, those will be running on channels 1&2 also, but those will have a passive crossover set at around 5khz. This is just a rough draft. Now I was wondering can I use my o scope to setup the crossover network. The dials don't have any accurate marks neither do they click.…

Complete System: 1 15" Sundown Audio Nightshade Dual 1 ohm. .wired at 1 ohm. 1 Sundown Audio SAZ-1500 Box specs: cant release havent built. Kenwood headunit, stock speakers for now. Big 3 upgrade with Kicker 1/0 Kicker 1/0 wiring on everything(amp, battery) Stock alternator (130amps) Now picking a battery.. what would be the best budget minded battery for this system? Now, im looking at a XS Power D3100, but is that too much? Is a XS Power D5100 good enough? the D5100 has max amps: 1,600A and the D3100 has max amps: 3,200A My system only has 1500rms so is the D5100 good because its max amps are 1,600A? I really dont know anything about batteries so dont go picking on me …

I was wondering if my 2000 Neon will hold 1000W rms without a alternator upgrade or a battery upgrade, the battery does around 650CCA while hot and around 550CCA when its cold. And iam not really sure what the alternator can pu out, i have been looking all over the inernet and i havent been able to find out, people tell me that i should be fine with a cap or nothing, and some tell me to get a 1 farad cap. What should i do?

Trying to figure out what size alternator I'm going to need and how many batteries I'll need. I'm figuring at least a 250 amp alt and 2 D3100 powermasters, plus a yellow top under the hood. Will be running a Clif Designs 4800.1lx and probably a Sundown 100.2 or 125.2. Is there a way to calculate what I'll need or is this all a guessing game?

I currently have a kdc 138 and I was looking to upgrade and I was wondering if anyone knew would I be able to just plug in the 993x?

are the new mean machines as good as the ones from like 05-08

What are some brands of some good solid amplifiers that do over rated power? I know majority of fosgate power series amps are underrated by at least 1k watts

I'm new here so bare with me. I have 2 power acoustic mofo 124x 12 inch 4 ohm dual voicecoils subwoofers running at 1500 watts rms each (3000 watts rms together). They are both wired parrel for 2 ohms each and wired to together at the amp for 1 ohm. I have a skar audio RP-4500.1d mono block amplifier pushing these subs. My question is do I need to upgrade my charging system to 2 high output alternators and 2 batteries along with the big 3? I did the math with the ohms law and just for my audio system alone I need 450 amps. I figured two 300 amp output alternators should be plenty. Am I right or is this overkill? If I'm wrong help me and gave me some advice on what I shoul…

Okay so im asking this question for a friend of mine. He just recently bought a hu from a local shop and they do free instal with the purchase...well they said that his car has a factory amp and that they will have to by pass it by running all new wires which will cost $120. I am still learning but this just doesnt seem right. I mean why would you want to bypass a amplifier? The shop said that running the amp would equal less output to the speakers but bypassing it would make it louder. I just dont quite understand the logic so if someone could explain it would be great. thanks

I have an older Pioneer DEH P930 with a bass enhancement feature that works like an Epicenter. As a bass lover...I have enjoyed being able to use this feature without having to add another piece of equipment (such as an Epicenter), just for this feature, into the system. Do any current Pioneer models have this feature? Do any other manufacturers build a circuit like this into their decks or processors? Thanks!

I have been debating on how to ground multiple runs of 1/0 for my upcoming install. So I figure weld some 5/16 bolts to a length of steel channel bar, then weld that to the body of the car. this would give multiple point fors grounding and I wouldn't have to rely on screwing ring terminals to the sheet metal and risking it coming loose.

I have 2 Audioque 2200d amps..My question is what type of electrical would i need? My car has a 160 amp alt,and i have 2 deka g31,would that be good for it? Its gonna be for daily usage..Thanks for any help.

i was just wondering if any of you have had any experience with this amp? i can get a KILLER deal on one in mint condition and wanted to know your thoughts and opinions of it. thanks

I had a sundown saz 2500d shipped to be and I'm positive it was dropped during shipping and the speaker wire input busted off. I was wondering how i could go about getting that fixed and what the cost would be. or if I can just order a new one. The metal that connects internally is busted off. I'm not positive if its covered under warranty or not. I emailed sundown and haven't heard anything back from the yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Like the title suggests, would it be practical to build a tube amplifier from scratch for a subwoofer? i need between 20-40w power @ 25hz 20w is acceptable but the more the better. Looks and size don't matter. Budget is $150

Does anyone know if there is a place to get a dual Alt bracket for a 2004 f150 5.4L. I tried iraggi and he doesn't make them