Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Am using a US Amp MD.3D amp. I got a HO alternator from Nations that push out around 140 Amps at idle and 230 Amps max output. I also have a 2 Farad cap and a battery that is 1000 cranking amps (CA)and 850 CCA. Will this be enough to run this amp without it going into PROTECT mode or shutting off due to the lack of "juice"? What is the "BIG 3"?

as of now my gains are set to the max preout voltage of my headunit (just got a dmm the other day), so pretty conservatively. but now that I am going to set them more aggressively with the dmm, i want to make sure not to send a clipped signal to either my mids or subs, but for both, i'm going to be using the full rated RMS of my amps. so my question is: is there any way to know if my amps will be able to do rated without clipping? if you just have to guess based on the amps, the amps are: a TMA 320.4 (4-channel from JL's entry level brand) and a Massive P1000.1 (at 4 ohms) no, i don't have an O-scope

I bought a new Pioneer z110bt and have been messin with installing it into my 2006 Nissan Xterra SE. I keep getting this high pitched whine. The factory Rockford Fosgate system is still in, and I have the bypass harness' and everything is hooked up right but it still makes this high pitched whine noise. Keep in mind this is WITH the key off...........I am lost as to why its doing this........The whine is still present with the RCA's unplugged. Any ideas guys? J

I have some 10g speaker wire laying around. Could I split it in half & use 3 single strands for it & the remote turn on?

Okay, I REALLY didn't plan it this way but I'm thinking about taking advantage of my new found surplus of amps. The reason for my dilemma is two fold. First off I decided to buy the IA 6.4 from Ohjay to power the SLS 8's in my Jimmy when I finally get to installing them. So I eventually plan on installing it anyway which brings me to the other side of the coin. This weekend I ran into some issues with the SAX-125.2 running as it should. First off I've noticed lately that the midbass is great some days and others it simply feels weaker than it should. I was attributing that mostly to my imagination and some psycho acoustics. Then this weekend after running the syst…

I have two d2 subs (d1.4). I have two IA 20.1's should I strap them at 2 ohms or run 1 sub pre amp at 1 ohm?

I have a Soundstream TRX 2.550 and I need to properly set the gains for my subs. I checked the sticky in this section and it says to use the frequency that the bass boosts uses. My boost is +18 from 35-80hz. So what tone should I use?? I wish I didn't have to use the Bass boost knob but I have no other way to turn the subwoofer level down as I am on a factory stereo. If I turn the bass down on the factory stereo it turns the bass down for all speakers making it sound bad. Thanks

Looking at a setup for my car inolving 2 12" l7's, Is the 1200.1 SX amp a perfect match for the two of them wired down to 1 ohm???

When you build a set up that gets beyond just ho alt and batts and you step up to dual,triple etc alternator how is it wired? Do you run the output from second alt to secondary batts? or does it feed into the system another way? Where do you run the ground? Just wanting to know the general outline of this type of install. Yes I used the search function but no complete answer/understanding.

Wanting to add to my existing alarm, thinking about adding perhaps two exterior sirens, current one is hurting. Also like the idea of having one or two piezo sirens inside the cabin. I have seen these refered to as pain generators. Any of you have input on particular brands which might stand above others in performance? I also wanted to know if adding the additional sirens and alarms will require any additional wiring aspects, I guess I mean can I just wire multiple sirens or will I need additional installation knowledge or products? Thanks for your help and input. Chop

Been gone for a while....need some insight. I'm ditching my Alpine 7894 for something newer and with more tweaking ability. I've been looking at the following: Eclipse 8445 Eclipse 8443 Eclipse 8455 Eclipse CD5000 Pioneer 960mp Pioneer 9600mp Can anyone share their experiences with these units or whether or not one has been consistantly praised more than the rest. Any flaws, things you wish it had? -It needs a 3way xover or better (wish there was a decently priced 4way xover) -At least a 7 band parametric EQ The Burr Brown 9600mp makes me want it more than the rest. Are there any reasons to not weight this over the rest? Can anyone tell a difference? I'm also replacing …

im planning a large build right now and was thinking if my alternator only puts out 250 or so amps and my wire is rated at 300amps is multiple runs really needed? my plan is one DC or equal 270 amp alt( doubt i can find a dual alt for this car). 2 runs + and two runs - from the starting battery to my battery bank of 9 batteries running approx 10k watts.

i have a sundown 2000d amp and its going in a ram 2500 which has 2 batteries under the hood. am i going to need to put a Kinetik battery in the back by the amp to keep it cool and to avoid any damage to my amp. it will by pushing a nightshade 12 v.2

ok, im kinda new, so this might be a stupid question, but why are bass knobs so bad like everyone says?

I don't know if this is old news or not but i just stumbled across this so it might be helpful for others. I'm assuming this will work with all other car dvd players that are wired to where you must be in park and have the hand brake applied twice before video will appear. OK, this is what it can do- The purpose of the safety feature is to not show video while in drive.... however, a glitch in my Alpine allows to show video while i'm driving and only shuts it off when the brake is pressed so for road trips, , you need not a video bypass. What i did- While i was in a stopped position, you could even consider just starting the car a stopped position because you only need t…

whats the optimal fuse size for a run of 0 guage to run a bc3500?

Kinda new to this but just need an idea as to what I need to upgrade on my truck to run my 4 15s 600 watts rms 1200 max I got a 3k amp coming and 0 gauge wire my truck is a diesel so it already has 2 batties and a 110 amp alternator from the factory. I just want to make sure I don't have to worry about power loose. Anything helps thanks.

hey guys i have 2 12 L7's being powered by a Eclispe DA7232. All was fine up until a few weeks ago when i noticed that the amp occasionaly shuts off after a few mins of play. all the wires are fine and the other amp works fine.... i was thinking maybe it might be seeing low ohms but the amp is not even warm...any ideas?....thanks guys

I just got an amp Its a crossfire 360 that got in trade. I tried to hook it up and one channel is real low and the other is clear when I play music thru it. Ok lets get down to the nitty gritty What I want to know is 1) Might it be blown? 2) The entire amp Blown or just that channel? 3) Is it safe to run the amp like that ? 4) I have looked and looked and I cannot find a PDF file for this amp, can someone help ? I think Thas It if you guys need any more info Feel free to ask and I will post as much information as I know and I can see on this problem. Thanks again and I have to say this is a Great Site. Very helpful.

Here is my progress of the Big 3 on my Sentra. http://i35.tinypic.com/5flyyu.jpg Now here is the stock grounding point for the battery/engine chassis. (That little screw back there) Since it is in the most extremely awkward position, can I instead ground to here with the new cable?

I know this may sound kind of odd, but is there any way that i can run a car amp out of my room wall socket? I was thinking maybe something like a 12v DC adapter from some random thing, but i don't want to fry my amp. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance, Mike B.

Lately I have been having some problems with my alt for some reason. Two days ago on Friday it was working fine and steadily charging around 14.4 while I was driving. Yesterday out of no where while I was driving (not listening to my system) it just decided to drop down to about 12.9. Today while driving I noticed that when I pressed the gas my voltage would severely go down but then if I let off the gas while in gear my voltage would start to rise. When I put it in neutral it would go back down again. I thought I could get away from getting a new alternator for a while because I am only running about 2500 rms, I have my gains set a little lower because of my electrical…

Ok guys just wondering what you would recommend me I can do on my current electrical. Currently I have an 18 Fi Bl d2 running with a sundown Saz-1500d. My electical consists of the big three being done in 1/0 gauge and an optima yellow top up front with around 1000 ca and a newer Ford 700ca battery in back. I am just looking for a setup to get lower and louder than the BL can. The Bl is in a 7.3ish cu ft book tuned at like 31-32 hz. Currently my headlights lights have almost no dimming whatsoever so I know I have a decent electrical. My budgets right around 800. So I'm looking into selling the BL on here and getting the BTL. I'd probably end up building a new box for the …

I want to use a JL Audio XD400/4 amplifier to drive my front stage two-way component set. This amplifier is four channel but is bridgeable. I have a two channel input signal for the XD400/4. If I read the manual correctly, I need a y-adapter (I will just make a RCA cable with 2 in 4 out) to connect to the XD400/4 to use the amplifier as a L+R bridged. Right? So basically the XD400/4 needs a four channel input to run as stereo bridged? From the XD400/4 manual: "When a pair of the XD400/4’s channels are operating in bridged mode, the output will be in mono (only one channel). This mono channel can contain right channel only information, left channel only information or the …

Anyone?