Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Im trying to make the things in this thread My link click, but with pain killers and a little booze (knee surgery) I want to make sure I sort of understand what is being said and how it applies to my situation. I have a newer bmw that has a factory amp for the subs. I tapped into the speaker wires to the subs with a LOC to add an amp and a sub in the trunk. Everything is up and running but there is one problem. The factory adjustments on the stereo system only allow the volume to go so high , to the point that distortion is not really possible. Does this mean that the sub volume is only going to go so loud also? No matter what the gain is set to like an anti dont even get…

Ok so I mounted my amp on my enclosure. Well after blasting my system for a couple months it failed. One day my sub started sounding slappy. So I took my sub out, looked okay. Put it back in its place. Well I checked everything wiring etc. I then moved my amp around and heard a rattle. This is what I found, broken off capacitor, thats what DBR told me it was. And then I found 2 burned resistors behind the RCA input/outputs. Anyone that can help me get this back to playing please hit me up. I sent these same pics to DBR and they told me they couldnt fix it, and there was another shop I could ask about it. The board is not burned, it just looks black because of the burned r…

Hey everyone I was just curious to see if anyone on here run's these amps or has had experience with them? I just installed mines today and it works like a champ, its used BTW but I was wondering if these pigs usually run on the hotter side? After about maybe 30 minutes of play time after hooking it up it was kinda hot, not hot where U couldnt touch it but not really warm either. So after about an hour and a half worth of playing its still working, it hasnt gone into thermal protection mode, But I was just curious if this is normal for this amp? But then again it is 2 amps in 1 chassis. LMK if anyone has input. thanks

Hey all. I have a 12" Fi BL wired like this: My question is that I bought 8AWG to wire the thing, problem is, the terminals only accept about 12AWG. So I trimmed about 1/2 or more the wires at the stripped ends, making it 16AWG, and I used 12AWG to wire the + --> + and - --> - and cut the ends the same way.. Should I be concerned, or what would have been a better option? Those damn holes are so small. =[ PS: twisted speaker wire is a PITA to strip.

is this any good http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/4826797/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046 it comes with a packagae i want and was wondering if it would be better to buy a different one? Thanks guys

First of all, who all has had any experience with these amps? They are stable @ 2ohms for about 1200w. Just curious if they might be able to handle running @1.34ohms. I have a 200amp alt, big 3, and 2 red tops for an electrical system. Thx for the help.

Wondering if anyone has used the 4/0 welding supply wire.... I have some interest in using wire this thick just so that I'll only need to run 1 run instead of a few 1/0 runs. I'd like to see some size comparison pictures or something. Also wondering how the 1/0 welding supply wire compares to the knu wire as far as size. I read some stuff on here about how copper is so much better than copper clad aluminum, and would like to change it up now. Thanks!

For the last two weeks i've been looking around forums and sites at all car audio equipment, i'm doing ok just need some help i've learnt alot, but still a long way to go! I'm from the UK as i've said a few times so i don't know if anyone can help me the majority of people here all go for Sundown and Fi, which i would love to have but i don't know atm. a Q 12" would cost in dollars 500 for me or 274 pound (With BP) and the 1500d amp would be 400 pound/ 730 dollar so thats 1230 dollar 8( YIKES! (674 pound) -- That's only 1 amp and 1 sub... I was wondering if there are any other brands you would recommend, i have looked at RS t1500-1bd and stuff All help appreciated, Pez

It has 4 gauge inputs... I know its not a huge deal but I wanted to use 0 gauge with it. I know stinger makes 4 gauge to 0 gauge adapters but the way the inputs are on the amp those adapters won't work. Would it be ok to just trim the 0 gauge down or should I just get a 4 gauge amp kit?

I'm about at the point where I need some electrical upgrades, my car is an 04 Mustang, electrical is stock no big 3, has a Optima Yellowtop My amps Bass amp has 160 amps worth of Fuses, Treble amp has 60 amps worth of fuses. If i play songs with real long bass notes my treble cuts out, maybe its just my sh!!TY wal- mart sony amp, i have a brand new soundstream amp that I'm going to have put in here shortly. Anyway can I put a 2nd battery on the stock alt. or should i go with a 160 amp alt or a 200 amp alt or what?

Hello i am relatively new here and was hoping to gain from the experience of some other members i am currently using a Sony CDX-GT340 and it sounds okay, but i was told the sound quality could be much much better. i am running alpine type r 6.5 components in the front and pioneer 4 inch (3 way) coaxials in the rear doors i am hoping to run these speakers off the head unit for a bit longer and then i will amp them my subwoofers are 2 15 inch fi Q's in a sealed box each receiving ~1200-1300 watts from it's own rockford fosgate t1500-1bd (currently off a y splitter of the rear channel) (electrical system has been upgraded significantly to account for this i don't want a…

im looking to buy either a Sundown SAZ-2500D or an AQ2200D. neither of these amps are internally fused, and ive never ran an amp that wasnt internally fused.. so my question is do either of these amps come with the fuse holder + fuse? also, i know i need the main wire fuse close to the battery, but how close does the fuse for the amp have to be to the amp? less then a foot?

I was wondering if this harness will work on the 9887 Mine didn't come with it http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-CDA-9813-9815-9...%3A1|240%3A1318

I have a 99 3 door Z71. I've upgraded the big 3 to 1/0 ga. I've put 200 amp Iraggi alt. in. I've got 2 Kinetik 1800's in the back. My amps are a RF T600-4, T1000-1. My volt meter still jumps alot and my lights still dimm a little. I just bought the 2 kinetik's new about 3 weeks ago. I put those 2 back there because I was planning on upgrading sub amp and 2-12's. But if it can't keep up with what I have there's no need. Is there something I'm missing to do or what? I don't listen to stereo very often with truck off. I just don't understand what's going on.

I want to buy a cd400 r/b but it says i need the Eclipse ipc-106. Now when i do a seach one item is just a simple wire(ECLIPSE iPC-106 iPOD iPHONE INTERFACE ADAPTER GENUINE - eBay (item 290471501209 end time Jan-31-11 11:36:02 PST)) and one is a $150 item(ECLIPSE NEW IPC-106 IPOD ADAPTER INTERFACE IPC106 - eBay (item 370475059712 end time Feb-12-11 13:49:25 PST)). My question is can i use just the wire or do i need the entire thing? Any help would be gladly appreciated.

Hey everyone, I need a distribution block that will input 1/0 gauge wire and output two 4 gauge wires and two 8 gauge wires. Or alternatively a distribution block that will input a 1/0 gauge wire and output three 4 gauge wires then another block that will input a 4 gauge wire and output two 8 gauge wires. But what I'm thinking, is just for a little more money I can get a second battery, hook the 1/0 gauge up to the positive post, then hook all the other wires up to the positive post without a need for the distribution blocks. I'd be spending just a little more money (the smallest powermaster battery on ebay is about $90..not sure if that'd even be beneficial) but I'd b…

so im looking for a 1000 watt at 1ohm am looking to buy one tonight i cant post in the forsale wanted section due to being a new guy but i thought i give it a shot here due to me looking for one NOW lol thanks for looking lmk if you got something for me

http://mobile.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=...=133&page=2 i think it would be cool to have this in my car, and on top of that i like the GIGA mp3 multi ill proly run a line driver with it.

Now, I definitely know the PowerMaster is a better battery, but the price of the Dekas are telling me to go w/ them. I could get two new Dekas for the cost of one new PowerMaster. Common sense is telling me to go w/ the Dekas but which do you guys suggest to do?

hi, i am thinking about getting a jl audio xd600/6 and going 2 way active using my 9887 for the processing. and i plan on using channels 1 and 2 for the tweeters. and 3 and 4 bridged for 1 midbass and channels 5 and 6 for the other midbass. now i am wondering by doing that. will i lose some features such as time alignment? or should it be ok as long as i have the rca's matched up right, thank you. and also i plan on doing the 2 way active this way with that amp because it is going in a truck so space is limited and this is only option that i can think of that can give me the power i want and still keep me within budget. thank you.

at the moment i have a hifonics brutus bxi-1210D. I recently saw on the ssa store front page the saz-1000D and also heard the sundown amps are rated at 12v which is awesome for me because I still have not upgraded my electrical, i will be just havent yet. My question is, will it be worth it to sell my amp for another that does around the same power? Isnt the sundown just a better all around amp? I just think its a little flashy and funny lookin haha.. Good amp dont get me wrong but I want an amp with 0gauge inputs kinda. I am running one fully loaded bl 15" and i think the saz would just be a better match.. does anyone know if the saz1000D has a bass knob? you know like t…

I just wanted to post this to see what some people are using. I didn't want to do a poll or anything because this could vary. I'm currently using some Streetwire Z2 series in the truck. They seem to do the job. I'm thinking I may replace them with something else in the future. So tell me what you've got. Thanks

IM NEW TO THE AMP AND SUB GAME AND I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS I PLAN ON BUYING A 12" BTL AND HIFONICS 2010 WATT BRUTUS AMP IM WONDERING WHAT AMP KIT WOULD BE BEST FOR THIS SETUP WOULD I NEED TO BUY A CAPACITOR AND/OR UPGRADE MY ALTERNATOR AND WHERE COULD I FIND SAMPLE BOX SPECS FOR IT BECAUSE I HAVE NO CLUE HOW OR WHAT TO BUILD SUB BOXS SUGGESTIONS FOR HEAD UNITS I APPRECIATE THE HELP..

I'm thinking about doing a double din conversion on my 02 Silverado and was looking at the new soundstream/ power acoustik ingenix series double din. Do yall think that it would be a decent head unit without spending too much? Or would it be worth doing the conversion for?

Alright here the deal i just got my custom built box in today. so i go to hook it up after wiring my subs up to my new box to my amp and right when i turn on my car and my cd player i hear no bass or music coming from my door speakers. so i go to the back to check both my 4 channel amp and my sub amp and they both show power like nothing is wrong just no sound.