Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Now, I definitely know the PowerMaster is a better battery, but the price of the Dekas are telling me to go w/ them. I could get two new Dekas for the cost of one new PowerMaster. Common sense is telling me to go w/ the Dekas but which do you guys suggest to do?

so i have another question ok here it go's. so im gonna be running 2 3000Ds to 2 Fi Btls would it be better to strap the amps together or run each amp unstraped 1 amp to each speaker sepretly?

I have been looking from time to time to see if I stumble across one, but I wanted to put the word out again and ask if someone might know of one or has seen one, I hate haveing a processor and not use it, could maybe back the gains back down again, any help would be great

ok so heres the deal just hooked up my system the other day and turns out i got nasty volt drop from 14.3 to 12 with my amp setting on a little less then half no bass boost head unit at 3/4 so heres the question what brand alternator do you run, amps on it? price you payed for it.? Ive been looking around and i have mechman alt. dc power georgia power and irragie alt im shooting for 270 amps.. would be appreciated thanks in advance

So acouple weeks ago I had a viper r350 installed in my truck and I took the liberty of ordering two Directed 515r backup battery sirens... I tested them now with the included keys and they're pretty loud. My ears were pulsating. Well I'm reading the instructions on them now and could use some help...There are 4 wires on the unit itself: red - +12v, fused at 5amps, constant source black - ground violet - "(+) Siren Input: Connect this wire to the (+) siren output of the security system. If using a DEI security system, this would be the brown (+) siren output wire." green - "(-) Siren Input: If using a security system with a (-) siren output, connect this wire to the sys…

so I have a 9300 and a 660 as of today, and i went to go plug in the new 660 to make sure everything was good and the plug was diff from the 9300 which pissed me off. It was basicly the same but the 660 one was a tad larger and i didnt feel like hooking up a new harness just to test the new hu. anyone know if the 4 or 5 series are the same as the new 6? thanks! -aaron

Hey all. I have a 12" Fi BL wired like this: My question is that I bought 8AWG to wire the thing, problem is, the terminals only accept about 12AWG. So I trimmed about 1/2 or more the wires at the stripped ends, making it 16AWG, and I used 12AWG to wire the + --> + and - --> - and cut the ends the same way.. Should I be concerned, or what would have been a better option? Those damn holes are so small. =[ PS: twisted speaker wire is a PITA to strip.

Looking to go active in my truck and have found one of these pretty cheap. Very budget oriented system, but would prefer to keep everything active. Does anyone have any thoughts on this beast? http://www.pioneer.be/be/product_detail.js...xonomy_id=25-38 It looks like it will work for what I would use it with: rli10" and a mid-range/tweet combo tbd

I was wondering if this harness will work on the 9887 Mine didn't come with it http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-CDA-9813-9815-9...%3A1|240%3A1318

im lookin for an HO alt for my truck. i have been to iraggi, mean-green, etc etc. send emails to the ones that didnt have ratings on them (ie, mean green. cost but no amperage rating) i have been researching the companies for the past 3 or so days. and i can tell you, IM FREAKIN SCARED! ive heard horror stories from all the companies. ngsm had a mean green with a misaligned bearing, tons of iraggi alt failures and a few doa, EVEN MORE DOAS from excessive. and i cant afford an ohio gen (even though i heard 2 chit stores about them as well). so here is my question is it really worth to get an HO alternator? i am running a 20.1 at 1 ohm right now (and from the test i saw on …

Hey guys, Ive searched and searched for threads and information regarding how to strap your amps and how to wire the sub appropriate but nothing is very clear and I dont want a mistake on my hands... so heres what I have going on, I am strapping two APSM-1500s with a dual 2 ohm sub. how do i need do i need to run speaker wire between the amps? and should I wire my subwoofer down to 4 ohm if Im trying to get a 2 ohm load from the amps? I appreciate the help

when you set your gain with a dmm it says take the amps rms and multiply it by the impedance of the sub. so say you have a 2 ohm dvc sub and you wire it down to a 1 ohm load. do you take 1 ohm or 2 ohms and multiply it by your amps rms then sqrt it?

what would be the perfect amp to use with an 18'' btl, i do not want to over power it. its a dual 1 ohm

I have a punch 2002, what speakers would work best for that amp. Prefer 12's. I already had a pair of wimpy C4's that crapped out in 2 months, and want something different, but affordable.

I have a JBL BP1200.1 and a JL 300/4 I recently disconnected/reconnected my battery and now both amps are refusing to power on. I checked with a multi meter that they ARE getting power but not even the lights are coming on. The JBL has 3 external fuses, all in tact, and the JL does not have any external fuses. What's the next step? Do I have to open these things up to inspect any internal fuses that may exist?

I just got it off craigslist for a $100, its rated 150x1@4, 300x1@2 and 800x1@1. Are these underrated? I wanted to know because i plan to buy a Fi Q. thanks.

i have a brz1700.1 powering a 15" Fi BL fully loaded, and ill be adding a 4ch. soon for my 6 1/2 and 6x9's..my stock alt is 105amps and i have a stock battery.. will i need to get a new alt and battery???.. or do yall think ill be just fine with what i have already??? the system isnt installed yet still waiting on a few things to in...?

hi, i am thinking about getting a jl audio xd600/6 and going 2 way active using my 9887 for the processing. and i plan on using channels 1 and 2 for the tweeters. and 3 and 4 bridged for 1 midbass and channels 5 and 6 for the other midbass. now i am wondering by doing that. will i lose some features such as time alignment? or should it be ok as long as i have the rca's matched up right, thank you. and also i plan on doing the 2 way active this way with that amp because it is going in a truck so space is limited and this is only option that i can think of that can give me the power i want and still keep me within budget. thank you.

Alright, I'm in a 99 xplorer and hookin up in that group buy for 2 12" Rl-p D2 and I'm goin with a LSQ system with a ported box, any thoughts on what amp/s i should go with to make this system nice. I'm not lookin to spend a chit load of money kinsiderin I gotta raise the finances to pay my truck off while I'm buyin this system. Truck cost: 6000 Sub cost: 450 Amp cost: hopefully not more then 300

I have seen these for around 400-500 dollars. same board as the MA 4000 and cliff designs. Does anyone have experience with these do they do rated or close on a good electrical system? would be used for daily and some comps. thanks Chad

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Does the epicenter help increase you spl or does it just act like a bass boost where it will just cause the amp to clip. Would it be a good idea to buy one if I mainly use an ipod?

does any one know were i could get a good 2000 watt amp i got $700 to spend i need it for my 2 rlp 12" i wanna try to get 1000 watts to each speaker what will i need to do this

So far I'm loving the new system but I've noticed with some songs (the loudest) and also at idle my voltage can drop down to 12v. It always jumps back up to 13.8+ volts after the bass hits... Should I be concerned? I still need to upgrade a ground under the hood, hoping that will help a bit.

Alright here the deal i just got my custom built box in today. so i go to hook it up after wiring my subs up to my new box to my amp and right when i turn on my car and my cd player i hear no bass or music coming from my door speakers. so i go to the back to check both my 4 channel amp and my sub amp and they both show power like nothing is wrong just no sound.