Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Enjoy Photos by HTC ONE M7 HDR

Hi everyone got a quick question.which year did this cadence z7000 amp come out at. I remember buying one of these 3 years ago off ebay and end up getting my car broken into and lost the amp but I could never figure out which year they made this amp in the picture.

So I currently have a d2 icon wired to one ohm in a ported box running off at sundown sae 1200 v2. I also have 2 fi ssds d1(s), I built a sealed box for them and wired them in parallel; on the dmm it reads .7 ohms. My vehicle is a buick lesabre which has 130 amp alt. With the icon my electrical is great, the lowest i see is 14.0 (13.8 or so with the a/c on) at full tilt while at a stop light or something. I put the fi's in, a direct swap. I left the amp setting the same. My voltage is horrible, dropping into the 12s at full tilt at highway speeds. So i turned down the gain, pretty much a 1/4 turn back and my voltage is just as bad. My lights flicker horribly and the volta…

So i have 2 Earthquake PH5000/d1 amps running 4 FI SSD 15s. I have found a low popping noise in the speakers from 1 of the amps. When i unplug the RCA cables from it it gets louder. I tried switching the 2 amps and it stays on that one amp. I also have an audiocontrol in dash epicenter that can measure dbs. One night after i built the box i went for a test drive i was hitting 158 on it. the next day and since then i have not been able to hit above 155. Today i was outside messing with it and I unhooked the speaker wires from the amp that is popping and the subs on the other amp got louder. That was while the truck was running and music playing. So i hooked all 4 to the on…

So I mistakenly order a 4 Gauge and an 8 Gauge kit by accident of CCA from Knu. I was going to do a run of 4 gauge to the sub amp and 8 to the amp for the fronts. The sub amp is a Hifonics BRX2400.1D. Would the 4 Gauge be enough for just this amp?

the amp arrived today, and I just fooled around with the buttons until I came up with something that sounded good. Between the Pioneer DEH-80etc. and this there's a lot more tweaking than in the old days! I have 4 sets of comps, one in each door so they're all identical. I also have a matching crossover box for each comp with sep. cables going to tweet & 6.5 mid. I do NOT want to bridge this. I want full control over all four comps to adjust for placement strength etc. But I will say this, after listening for an hour in my driveway the thing went into protection mode...already! At one point on the fader, fading to ALL front made the sound (except sub) vanish,…

Good Sunday everybody, its been awhile since I was last on here. Ive decided I wanted to get back into car audio, and I seen a deal on eBay hard to pass up. As Pioneer is loading out their "NEX" generation headunits it appears the older models are going for a good price. So I picked up a AVH-X5600BHS for my 2010 Dodge Challenger RT (with Boston Acoustic factory installed). I'm not very car audio inclined, so apologizes in advance if I sound off when describing my problem, or whats going on. Friday I got everything in mail from online purchases, all brand new. I got the PAC RP4-CH11 wiring w/ interface, a AVH-X5600BHS Pioneer Double Din, Aftermarket Harness + Antenna. …

Anyone have experience with that amp? Thinking about running 4 skar 6.5 midbass off this amp 1 in each door?

from my readings it was mentioned that remote turn on leads should be fused at .5A on all installs. is this standard practice today or was this directed at older decks? i have just never seen or heard of this until i read it. when using a LOC converter (factory head unit to power amps) i read it should be installed behind the deck. is there any reason against installing it off rear speakers in the trunk or else where in the car? assuming what ever speaker outputs you are going to are the right type e.g. not crossed over from the factory deck at an incorrect frequency for your application. edit: question about gains. when setting amp gains i was told that i should max ou…

http://dayton.craigslist.org/ele/4406258714.html anyone ever ran one or had any experience with one?

http://www.head-fi.org/t/655315/v-moda-vamp-verza-metallo-discussion-feedback-reviews-pics-crowdsourcing-ideas Looks very interesting...

Just ordered my ssa xcon 15 and was wondering if anyone has any recommendations as far as buying a pre built box or building my own??

who make a bass processor like the basscube

So I have a very annoying problem and need some advice on how to address it! It seems that I have some serious static noise from the radio. I've done some intensive testing over the weekend, and come to one conclusion. Is that the noise is coming directly from the radio itself. I will list some of the things I've done over the weekend to come to this conclusion. Swap the amplifier for a known good amplifier, problem presist Swap radio with known good radio, problem goes away Swap my rca's into a known good amp(different vehicle), problem goes away Swap rca's from known good radio from another vehicle into my radio, problem is now in that vehicle Ground rca to headunit c…

I am looking for 4/0 wire. any recommendations for this type of wire. and where to get it

will i saw a car with a pc in it over the weekend and i want to do it but don't know it it is going to work better the a head unit so if have done this or if you know if i can do a sq build with it

Ran across this on the eBay and thought it looked like a great buy, especially for someone looking for a simple all in one solution for an active setup. The Zapco I5100 is a seven channel amp that is rated for 50wrms x 4, 25wrms x 2 and 400wrms x 1 all @ 4 ohms. By bridging the 4 channel section you get a rated 175wrms x 2 plus the 25wrms x 2 and the 400wrms x 1 and the sub section is rated 600wrms x 1 @ 2 ohms. In my mind the 2 x 175 would be great for a mid, the 2 x 25 would be great for tweeters and the sub section great for many subs on the market. It seems like a fantastic solution to simplifying an active setup as far as the amplification is concerned and at …

Which is better Passive or Active? After askin on other threads i figured out the difference, but not sure which one is best. All i can figure is Passive would be better because you can use one channel of amplification and get 2 or 3 way crossover, and have that one channel power 2 or 3 speakers. So = better use of power. For Active you need one channel for one speaker. so more power is required by needing more channels, but that give you more control, right? Will one sound better than the other?

i just got a new box built for my subs ( 2 12 inch dual 2 ohm L5 kickers in a 6.5-7 cube box tuned to 35 htz). i picked it up from the guy and set my amp at 25 htz with the gain set at about half way from what i can see on the dial. first, i must say it sounded amazing! i was running a 3.3 cube box that was kinda jimmy rigged together by the guy i bought them from so this is exquisite great sound, good range and a ton of sound pressure. if anyone needs a box built in central to eastern washington/ central idaho let me know i'll get you in contact with triticum audio. ok, so the guy that built my box also installed the subs and wired in at a 4 ohm load. about a week afte…

Does anyone know where to look for a HO alt for an 02 Kia Sephia? Looking for a 140-175a for a friends car, the only one we can find is a 140a for ~500

I have 2 alpine type r 12 DVC 4ohm subs In ported black box tornado series. My Kenwood head unit has a 2.5 volt Preout. I have had my gain on my alpine mrx m240 half way up with no bass boost and crossover set at 85 on the amp wired at 4 ohm putting out 1500 watt into 2 alpine type r. I got the smd distortion detector a few days ago to see if I was clipping . I live in the middle of no where and the local audio shop has no clue what they are doing so I installed everything and set gains myself. I used the smd dd1 and it at my max volume on the headunit which is 35 it shows my amp starts clipping at slightly above 1/4 on the gain . I rarely get my volume past 26 on the hea…

I need any assistance finding a manufacturer to make a dual alt bracket for my 2011 4runner SR5 4.0L V6 engine. I am in the process of purchasing components for an audio upgrade and would like ti run the truck off the original alt and the sound system off the beefed up(350 amp+) second alt. If anyone has a kit available please please contact me through this post or message. Thank you in advance.

My alt is stock with a crescendo batt and the problem is when it's cold out side it idles at 14.4 volts but when it's warm out side it drops down to 12.9 at idle...what could it be...battery, alt or what.... My electrical so far is crescendo battery logic 31, 2 runs of 0 gauge from alt and big 3 with two runs of 0 gauge to the amp

Hey there guys just needed some advice on my electrical. I have a 110amp stock alternator and i am running 2 12s skar vvs off a sundown saz2500 @ 2ohms so there getting 1200 rms. i will be running xs flex 0 gauge with a odyessy pc 1500 underhood. I am also running a skar 80.4 with front/rear skar coaxils. Wanted to know if my electrical is sufficent and another question was that using my sundown amp at 2 ohms, will that be less stress on my electrical rather then 1ohm? Thank you

Hey guys, so i'm at a stump with my electrical in my car. I have two sundown SA-15's in my Honda CRV being powered by a hifonics HFI 1500d. I would love to upgrade my amplifier and get about 2500 watts to the subs but my voltage is too low for that type of power. I have been searching for a compatible high output alternator with the CRV for a while now, but have had no luck. Also the alternator is located under the engine so I would have to pay a shop to go in there and install it. All lots of money i don't have to spend. Are there any other ways i can give my electrical system a boost to maintain that 13.8+ to power a higher wattage amplifier? I have already done the big…