Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Alright, I need to go 4-way active with 2 sets bandpassed... I thought my only option was to run a crossover, I didn't realize the SX Kicker amps are bandpassable on every channel? So I can run 2 SX900.4 with the remote instead?!?! Please help! Thank you! Jordan Crossovers 10Hz – 16kHz variable HP frequency adjustable in 1/12th octave steps 30Hz – 20kHz variable LP frequency adjustable in 1/12th octave steps 6 – 36dB/octave variable crossover slopes (up to 48dB/octave on the 650.1) HP, BP, and LP on every channel http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-product-reviews/6375-running-active-setup-using-kicker-sx-amps-dsp.html

Was wondering what are some companies that make the dual alternator brackets. I'm looking to pick one up for my '96 Tahoe.

this is an old blown amp i had just sitting around. i took the case off to see whats up with it. i dont really give a crap about it. brand and model is SPL FX2-2200. i think i wired my sub to .5 on it when i just started in car audio. wondering what the burnt mark is. i kinda wana try and fix it just for fun or just rip it apart just for fun any input?

I was wondering if I should get an outside crossover and eq or combination of them for my truck, I am using the active crossover on my H/U clarion dxz-785usb, it has Digital time alignment on it and 18 db slope 3 way crossover in the deck. I am running my front channel to my tweets @ 3500 hz then running my dual 5.25 in the door of the rear channel ran @ 90hz and up then sub channel @ 90hz and below Would I improve my SQ buy adding and eq/crossover to the mix or is the head unit alone good enough. It sounds good now, just wish I had a little more control over the freq.

I can use my Deck (Kenwood KDC-MP338) manually and using the remote to change settings and stuff, but ever since i installed my amp (Mark Antony GS1000D) i can't use the remote because the remote makes it go into protect mode( it clicks). I can use all the controls manually but can't use any buttons on the remote (doesn't change anything on the deck). Any idea whats wrong?

I can not create a topic in section "For sale/Wantid" (No 25 Posts). I'm looking Clarion DXZ785USB. Delivery in Russia. Where agreement is reached 100% advance payment through PayPal. Please send offers with photos on my mail - [email protected].

My current car is running off the stock 80 amp alternator. I am planning on soon putting 1200 watts RMS through the system. How will I know if I need an extra battery, or new alternator, or what? Thanks.

Realistically, how big of amps can I run (D class) in total wattage on a 136 amp alternator? I checked the specs for a dodge diesel and this is what it said of the output. After looking at the number, I'm thinking I'll only be able to run one sub and to incorporate two of the channels for the sub.

Im running a rockford fosgate T25001bd wired down to 2 ohms for right now at 2 ohm the birth sheet says 2220 watts i would like to some day drop it down to 1 ohm but that will push 3250 watts and the efficiency goes down by a good amount will i be fine with the stock alt with the xs? i dont have the money at the moment to get a ho alt from dc

If you have a two channel amp and only use 1 channel for now, would all of the amps power from both channels go through that one channel being used or would it stay the same as what it is supposed to put out per channel?

Hi, im sorta new to this stuff and i had several questions that i hoped can be answered. 1. Does an amp put out as much watts(rms) as they say they do? Does this also apply to cheaper amps? 2. When do i need to run a capicitor? 3. Can subs take more power than recommended by the manufacturer? 4. If i listen to mainly rock/metal what type of box should i use? I'd like it to be loud but also feel like some child is kicking the back of my seat. Any links would be helpful, thank you.

Made a video to show everyone whats its doing. The amp has been hooked up and running fine for a couple weeks now. Out of no where the amp starts cutting in and out today. When it does, it goes into protect mode. I checked every wire from the battery back and all are good. I even pulled the headunit and checked all connections there too. So here is what happens: Amp cutting in and out while I was running errands today. So I turned the radio off until I go home. When I got home I pulled out all my tools and DMM and checked everything. All is well. But now, the amp is on, not in protect mode, and I get zero output to the subs. Yes, I checked the subs wiring too. I noticed w…

hi i am new here to this forum and i just had a few questions i had wanted to ask . ok i currently have a 88 deville i am running a alpine 7893 cd player and i have a mtx ta 81001 amplifier running on a powerbass 15xs subwoofer . my questions is do you all think i need to upgrade my alternator and battery i have been looking online to find specs on the alternator and stuff i asked the guy at autozone and he said it was 120 amps is that good enough for the amplifier the battery is a regular one from advance auto. the reason i am asking the lights don't dim really bad till i get to about 26 or so on the cd player. with the bass on zero and no bass boost on the a…

well im looking for a used amp for 2 btl's so i guess im in the $7-900 range im mostly looking for efficiency , realiability , longevity, and a subsonic filter so if you guys could point me in the right direction i would really appreciate it

Could I run a single yellow top as a starting battery and run a ~1500w system off of it?

I recently swapped out my Pioneer DEH-P5900iB for an Alpine IDA-X001. I absolutely love the usability of the unit, but it lacks the equalizer features of the Pioneer. I'm considering getting either an AudioControl EQL or MA MA15EQX for my front stage. It would be mounted on my sub box, not a dash model. Any recommendations? Thanks, -fp

JUST PURCHASED A NEW 1200D.HAD IT INSTALLED,PLAYED WELL FOR 3 DAYS.AND THE OTHER DAY,I GOT IN MY CAR,STARTED UP,TURNED MY HU ON,THE BLUE LIGHT LIT UP AND TURNED BACK OFF.WENT TO MY TRUNK,AND THE AMP WAS IN PROTECT.FIRST THING I DONE WAS DISCONNECTED MY RCA'S AND SPEAKER WIRES(STILL IN PROTECT)CHECKED MY GROUNDS(THEY WERE CLEAN AND TIGHT)CHECKED MY B+ AND GND(14.2V)CHECKED FUSES(NONE BLOWN)ALL WIRING SEEMS TO BE FINE.I CHECKED EVERYTHING FROM THE BATTERY TO THE AMP(HU INCLUDED)............ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT MAY BE THE ISSUE?

I've got a '03 Chevy Trailblazer LTZ, with a stock battery and 150amp alt. If I run a SAZ 1500d with my DC 15, will my stock electrical system be able to handle this? Or should I install a second battery in the back? Big 3? Any suggestions would help. Thanks.

I was wondering if my 2000 Neon will hold 1000W rms without a alternator upgrade or a battery upgrade, the battery does around 650CCA while hot and around 550CCA when its cold. And iam not really sure what the alternator can pu out, i have been looking all over the inernet and i havent been able to find out, people tell me that i should be fine with a cap or nothing, and some tell me to get a 1 farad cap. What should i do?

When I was first getting into car audio I cheaped out and bought an alpine cde-100 as a headunit replacement. It only has one set of rear preamp outputs and I already have an amp for my sub hooked up to them. In future I would like to get an amp for my speakers. When I eventually get an amp for speakers will I need a headunit or is there an easy work around? I don't want to lose any sound quality. Also, how important is the preamp voltage? I read that it cuts down on distortion but how much of a difference will there be between 2v & 5v?

Who wanted to donate a "few" pennies to me to buy that new hi fonix amp :ph34r:

I currently have a 230 amp alternator for my 04 Honda civic. im putting 2 n215 btl's in my trunk with a 3875 watt amp. i have im not sure what kind of battery i have now but its new and standard (nothing special). will i need to pick up another battery or 2 to put into the trunk? if so would i be better off adding them after the subs are installed or wire them at the same time?

Can someone please help me with my radio. I put my sundown amp to it, and my radio started to fry!! now theirs no output from my speaker wires from behind radio. (I disconnected amp, and rewired back regular). I tested all wires, and it seems that one speaker output does in fact give a little static. Im guessing I fired the outputs in the radio. Can anyone help me fix this problemo

Can get a great deal on one and was trying to get some Specifications. http://www.carsound.com/reviews/amps/zr360.html http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nvAPS3E4lWG/c...;i=206ZR360#Tab http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manu...s/ZRAmpsMan.pdf I know that this is a cheater amp but dose any one have any experience with this amp or any one who has ?

been a lurker here for a while, but I finally got around to ordering up a ICON 10 and hooked it up to my existing kicker 1000.1 amp. Never had a problem with my amp on my 12 jlw6v2. got it all installed and set the gains pretty low. played some music and slowly turned the gains up till it sounded pretty good which wasnt even half way up on the gains. Now after playing music for a few minutes the sub is playing... The sub cuts out, but the amp isnt showing me its in protect mode. So i turn the gains back down and its still doing it. now after playin with it for a couple weeks I just left the gains down and kept using it. But i've noticed that when I first get in the truck…