Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Made a video to show everyone whats its doing. The amp has been hooked up and running fine for a couple weeks now. Out of no where the amp starts cutting in and out today. When it does, it goes into protect mode. I checked every wire from the battery back and all are good. I even pulled the headunit and checked all connections there too. So here is what happens: Amp cutting in and out while I was running errands today. So I turned the radio off until I go home. When I got home I pulled out all my tools and DMM and checked everything. All is well. But now, the amp is on, not in protect mode, and I get zero output to the subs. Yes, I checked the subs wiring too. I noticed w…

hi i am new here to this forum and i just had a few questions i had wanted to ask . ok i currently have a 88 deville i am running a alpine 7893 cd player and i have a mtx ta 81001 amplifier running on a powerbass 15xs subwoofer . my questions is do you all think i need to upgrade my alternator and battery i have been looking online to find specs on the alternator and stuff i asked the guy at autozone and he said it was 120 amps is that good enough for the amplifier the battery is a regular one from advance auto. the reason i am asking the lights don't dim really bad till i get to about 26 or so on the cd player. with the bass on zero and no bass boost on the a…

well im looking for a used amp for 2 btl's so i guess im in the $7-900 range im mostly looking for efficiency , realiability , longevity, and a subsonic filter so if you guys could point me in the right direction i would really appreciate it

3 I am just curious cause I have never run them and I like Crystal subs

Could I run a single yellow top as a starting battery and run a ~1500w system off of it?

JUST PURCHASED A NEW 1200D.HAD IT INSTALLED,PLAYED WELL FOR 3 DAYS.AND THE OTHER DAY,I GOT IN MY CAR,STARTED UP,TURNED MY HU ON,THE BLUE LIGHT LIT UP AND TURNED BACK OFF.WENT TO MY TRUNK,AND THE AMP WAS IN PROTECT.FIRST THING I DONE WAS DISCONNECTED MY RCA'S AND SPEAKER WIRES(STILL IN PROTECT)CHECKED MY GROUNDS(THEY WERE CLEAN AND TIGHT)CHECKED MY B+ AND GND(14.2V)CHECKED FUSES(NONE BLOWN)ALL WIRING SEEMS TO BE FINE.I CHECKED EVERYTHING FROM THE BATTERY TO THE AMP(HU INCLUDED)............ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT MAY BE THE ISSUE?

Hey all I am new here and semi-new hooking up car stereo... that being said I need some help hooking up my new Sundown 1000d the manual says for 1-4 ohm 1 speaker configs to use both positive and then runs a neg line fom the woofer towards the amp... notice i said towards... the positive leands stop on the positive terminals of the amp but the negative lead routes toward the amp and then stops.... Im a newb I know but Id rather ask how then to tell you how I burnt my truck down or fried my brand new amp!! thanks in advance.

Anyone know of a good amp repair place that might be able to fix an old Mark Antony 25OPCM? I found a phone number for Concept, I believe they bought them out years ago--but haven't had a chance to give them a call. I would REALLY like to get this amp repaired if at all possible.

Here in my next build, I'm going with 4 batteries, but am unsure about which to use. I'm going to be building a wall in my 2 door Chrysler Sebring....2 Sundown Audio 3000D's, 1 15" custom Nightshade(lil bit of tweaking) and a Sundown Audio 100.4 for component set. I'm running all 0 gauge Kicker Hyperflex wiring, Optima Yellow Top up front with big 3 done with the only alternator available for my vehicle...a Load Boss 160 Amp alternator. My question being....I know of all these battery companies....and I've used Kinetik but want to go a different route. How are Powermaster...DEKA Intimdators and any other high amperage brand of AGM batteries stacked up against eacvh othe…

ok...i have a sony cd player that im wanting to put in my truck.....i know what all the wires for the cd player are except 2......the blue and the blue/white.....i know one of them will be the remote......and im assuming the other will be the illumination...and the next thing i need is the factory color codes for the truck....its a 96 isuzu hombre.........and dont tell me installdr.com they dont have info on my isuzu

When I was first getting into car audio I cheaped out and bought an alpine cde-100 as a headunit replacement. It only has one set of rear preamp outputs and I already have an amp for my sub hooked up to them. In future I would like to get an amp for my speakers. When I eventually get an amp for speakers will I need a headunit or is there an easy work around? I don't want to lose any sound quality. Also, how important is the preamp voltage? I read that it cuts down on distortion but how much of a difference will there be between 2v & 5v?

Does anyone know of a standalone subsonic filter you can buy? My friend bought a Kicker ZX700.5 and it doesn't have one... But he doesn't need a full audio processor or crossover, just the subsonic filter. I'm looking for something that preferably hooks into the RCA's, but if there are any other options please let me know. Thanks for the help

I currently have a 230 amp alternator for my 04 Honda civic. im putting 2 n215 btl's in my trunk with a 3875 watt amp. i have im not sure what kind of battery i have now but its new and standard (nothing special). will i need to pick up another battery or 2 to put into the trunk? if so would i be better off adding them after the subs are installed or wire them at the same time?

Can someone please help me with my radio. I put my sundown amp to it, and my radio started to fry!! now theirs no output from my speaker wires from behind radio. (I disconnected amp, and rewired back regular). I tested all wires, and it seems that one speaker output does in fact give a little static. Im guessing I fired the outputs in the radio. Can anyone help me fix this problemo

now i could put it in the trunk or i can take out the passenger air bag, and build a lil custon enclosure for it. Other than that i'm all ears. Just need it so it cant be stolen easily, ie, brake window, take playstation.

been a lurker here for a while, but I finally got around to ordering up a ICON 10 and hooked it up to my existing kicker 1000.1 amp. Never had a problem with my amp on my 12 jlw6v2. got it all installed and set the gains pretty low. played some music and slowly turned the gains up till it sounded pretty good which wasnt even half way up on the gains. Now after playing music for a few minutes the sub is playing... The sub cuts out, but the amp isnt showing me its in protect mode. So i turn the gains back down and its still doing it. now after playin with it for a couple weeks I just left the gains down and kept using it. But i've noticed that when I first get in the truck…

Hi all, My question is a daily/Competing question. it has to do with the Street classes in DB drag. in street A they only allow One (1) battery in the stock location. which is fine, for competing and doing the whole burp it and go thing. but with an saz-3000 i feel i will need more than one battery for daily driving and for the other organization im competing in Midwest SPL (no battery restrictions). so my question is what is the best way to do this? safely of course. My initial thought was to have a sort of buss bar for positive and negative (this may get complicated so bear with me). I will run one 2/0 welding cable from the front battery to the trunk Buss bars …

what should i set the Sub sonic at if its a 15" FI BTL Ported at about 33Hz ive heard 23 and ive heard 33.. and what the funk do i set the phase to? 0-180 degrees

Looking for a budget amp for a friend to drive an 8" Assasin sub in a .6 sealed enclosure. Any recommendations?

Ok guys i got my saz 3000 order in just waitin on new ones to come in and i've ordered a 18 btl what i'm wondering is will the 220amp "Dominator" Series Iraggi Alternator be enough with a extra batt and if i deceide to go with another saz 3000 would it still be ok thanks for any help ahead of time.

I have an alpine 9887 with 4v preouts. I'm running 4 mono amps for my subs. I have been using a maxxling with 9v line driver. I have heard the maxxlink presents much distortion. I decided not to use it on the rebuild. My question is will I have enough rca voltage to run 4 huge amps in one set of rcas.

So when trying to calculate your voltage, do you use ur ideal ohm load or the actual ohm load measured with a dmm? also say your amp does 1500 watts @ 1ohm, will it still be putting out that much or close to after impedance rises (say to 1.4ohm)?

I read quite a few questions regarding electrical supply and demand so I decided to post this link to help figure out any electrical dilemma you may be having. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp

I just went and bought a Digital Multimeter because I will be getting a stinger voltmeter soon.. plus I just needed one, and well.. I have no idea how to use it!!! I tried my best and got a spark and some awfully hot wire thingys... ouch. First off there are 2 different red plugs and 1 black plug slots at the bottom of the dmm.. I wasn't sure how to know which red one to plug into, and obv. the black went into the only black slot. After that i went over to DCv and scrolled the wheel over to 20.. I assumed you go higher than the voltage you are going to read.. which for cars is around 12v.. Then I stuck my red probe onto my + on my amp and black onto my - on amp.. and.. s…

My 1/0 gauge just came in and I was wanting to get started on my Big 3 upgrade. Just wanted to run it by you guys real quick to make sure I had everything correct. First off I read not to just crimp these wires but to solder them as well because it makes a much better connection. (Any tips on soldering? This will be my first time.) I watched a few videos on youtube and it seemed fairly easy but any tips will help. But I am going to run 0 gauge from the neg. of my battery to the chassis of my car. Then from the positive of my battery to the alt. I seen a few people put fuses in between this run.. Is that necessary to fuse between pos. of batt and alt? Then finally …