Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

lol it's not that good of quality, for some odd reason my cam didn't pick up the display to well, but it gives you a brief idea of the unit.

I have and Audiopipe APSM-1300 that went into protect mode while riding down the road. I had it wired to a 1ohm which is 1000 watts. The amp is grounded beneath the drivers seat at a spot were I sanded the paint away and secured the ring terminal with three screws to the floor. I have an 8 gauge kit with an 80 amp fuse. My question is it possible the amp was struggling too hard with the small wire to generate the power or the amp hit the drivers seat frame and maybe shorted out. The amp is damaged now and Audiopipe wants $20 to fix it and whatever it cost to ship it. I only paid $100 for the amp and I think I will go with something else instead of fixing it. Any thou…

Poppin Sound (help) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ok.. my system was working great... i had this old deformed amp (classonic) and i connected it.. and conected my SW pre amp RCA from my headunit to it.. and it didnt work... then i took off the RCA's from it connectted it to my Amp that am generally using with my sub.. and it didnt work.. then i cutted the RCA's and i changed the polarity of the wires +ve with -Ve and vice versa .. and the AMP and subwoofer worked.. but when i changed the setting of the woofer in the HU to REVERSE.. i hear this POPPIN sound n the sub go above its X max for a sec. even when i tyurn the vol…

I have always been told that a fairly good way of judging the output of an Amp just off 1st glance is to take the total amount of all the fuses & multiplying this by 10 will give you a rough estimate of the RMS output of said Amp? Is this a true statement by chance or have I been misled in some way? I ask because recently I had an Orion Cobalt CB2500.1D pushing my 1200RMS 15" Soundqubed sub but after roughly a yr it shot craps on me, stopped sounding good & after 10 or 15 minutes it would start kicking in & out of protection mode...I looked around for a new replacement but after seeing what the market had to offer me at my budget price I ended up getting anoth…

I have two 12" Kicker L7s on a PA 2400DB, which does about 1400W. My subs are dual 2 ohm and im looking for an amp that does at least 1600 clean watts. Or anything yall would recommend to make these things beat. Don't get me wrong though these things do hit hard. I have a sealed box now, but i may want to go to a ported box. What do yall think the cubic ft. and tuning should be for 2 12" L7s. (I listen mostly to rap) Thanks in advance.

im looking at upgrading my system. im planing on useing 1 bl 12 and was looking at using a hifonics bxi1606d or a bxi2006d. which would be better to power the bl? and what options would i need? or is there another amp around the same price range as the hifonics that would be better to use?

just a quick question, is it possible for a amp to be "too cold"?

1st the alarm ? is how many of u guys dont have alarms and live in not so safe neighborhoods? like i live in a not so safe area of my town w/ no alarm and my sub sittin in the back seat and the amp bolted between my front seats w/ no alarm i worry but not that much cause im usually awake all night and can hear my old doors squeak if they open but if sumone did get in it it would take 2 people to get the sb out anyone else go unprotected? 2nd is about amps in a few weeks i will be getting a new amp and h/u. if i can find a used sundown or a refurb at a decent price i for sure want that. as of now i only need 1000rms but i wanna get enough power to not have to get another …

I have a Kenwood ddx574bh HU and was just wondering what the bass ext function really does? The manual is pretty vague. I have it off right now just wondering if it should stay off or if I should turn it on.

Alright, so I've done some searching and can't find any posts similar to what I'm dealing with. The closest I can find on google is something referring to the battery current sensor. Aparrently its only on 2005+ Tahoes though, but it senses draw and adjusts alternator charging output accordingly. Mine is a 2000, and when I went through my Big 3, I saw no such sensor as expected. The issue I'm having is a lot more noticeable now that I have a Stinger volt gauge in the dash (Installed same time as new HO Alt, 9/11/19) When I start up, I'm at around 14-14.3v.. after warmed up, 13.9v is consistent. Now... I've notice multiple times that when I am coming to a stop, or slo…

hi i'm between a second battery or an alternator both will cost around the same my only problem with the 2nd alternator is that my car is a piece of sh@t and not sure how long it is going to last me and dont want to put parts into it i cant transfer to a new vehicle when i get one my audio ive got is a saz2000d, 12" fi btl with daily, cooling dual 2ohm wierd at 1 ohm big three with 1/0 gauge stock alt is 110amp and main battery is a 24 ah canadian tire thing lol oh and my buget is 250-325

I currently have a Hifonics BRE1700.1d, I have done the Big 3 to my car which is a 2010 Malibu. My voltage drops crazy fast from 14.6 to 11.6 when certain songs are playing. What I was wondering is if an XS power D1200 would be sufficient enough to use as my battery under the hood? Or should I got for the XS power D2400? I don't want to get a H/O alternator or a second battery for the trunk. Thank you

Hey anybody out there running one of these i had the DTS-1000.1 and it beat hard probably too much for my cvr 12 (rated at 400 rms) i had it ran peralel at 2 ohms since it was a dual 4 sub supposedly the amp was puttin out 560 @ 2 ohms. this i had to RMA the 1000.1 because it rattled and got back a 1500.1 becuz of the price drop since i origonally boutght the 100 in sept of this year id like to know from anybody running one of these thanks >>.....D sorry about the double post my interweb died lol

Ok, I have a Fi Q 15 on the way thats getting ran off of about 1000-1200 watts from a Sundown 1500. I currently have a Pioneer 4900iB and the display has been kinda getting funky and the knob is starting to stick a little. I bought it with all my stuff when I was doing my first system, and now I want to upgrade. It's currently running some Infinity Reference 6.5 coax's off headunit power. I know that it probably wont be able to keep up with the 15 at high volumes. I was really thinking of getting a Premier 880prs or the copper plated 800prs. I dont know if I want to run active at the moment. I will be upgrading to some components soon. I think if I go passive I'll pick up…

Looking to upgrade my head unit and I'm between Kenwood ddx376bt or Pioneer avh-501ex

please post what are the best 2000watt amps @ 2ohms. looking for something thats consistant or under rated at 2000 watts. it will be used to run 2 10" ssa icons in a ported enclosure.

2volt headunit vs 4volt headunit which is better? what are the benefits of a high voltage sub output? I currently have a 2v alpine that i'm thinking of replacing I'm thinking with my current setup that I can use a little more power but idk If i get a 4v, will i have 2 retune my amps? Will I end up just turning my amps down with a 4v, and have the same results as b4? Would it be better to put that money towards a big amp? (money is rare)

my xplod amp cuts in and out. I think it might have something to do with the remote since over a year ago the insulation rubbed off the wire and it came into contact with metal and burned all the insulation off. it didnt work for maybe a week, then when I tried it again it started working but it was real quiet then started working like normal. could it be fixed and how much would it cost? its a sony xplod 1600-GSD (i think) Class D mono amp

I read through the tutorial but I'm still confused. I have this DMM: Amazon.com: GE 50953 Multimeter, Digital 17 Range 6-Function Which setting do I use? I've been searching for about a week, but can't find a clear answer.

i am going to be ordering another 18" BTL D2 for a total of 2 BTLS my question is what other electrical upgrades will i need for my next setup i currently have, a stock alternator. that i will be changing to a H/O 300 amp, shuriken BT120 and big 3 done. i am stable at about 14volts to 13.8 at full tilt with my saz-2000D i am planing on selling the Saz-2000D and getting a Stetsom 4K2D amp (open to suggestions on amps also) i am open to any suggestion, i need all the help i can get cuz i dont want anything to go wrong Thanks an advance fellaz

specificly the a3000db, here, and the a520-2hp, here...... what can anyone tell me about them? how are their amps in general? the reason i am asking is becuz a install i am about to start might include these two amps, if they are atleast capable of their rated power and good performers... also, if u can list amps in the same power range, the mono amp needs to be either 1/2 ohm or 2 ohm stable(the subs are dvc 2ohm) for around the same price...plz list....i need them to be a "matching" pair thanks all wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Hey all. I just bought a 1993 Ford Tbird Super Coupe and the tape deck isn't going to cut it. I want a cd player that I can go active with. I was looking at the Eclipse 3200, I'm not sure if that's a good choice. I trust that you guys can help me out. Budget: No more than 300. Listening Preferences: Classic and modern rock. I'm toying with 3 way active, but I may just do a 2 way. Input on this would also be appreciated. Thanks, Ryan

Well for some reason my power winodws and my interior lights are not working any more so im guessing its my battery because i was away for 4 weeks and i came back and it was dead but wahtever, so im assuming my battery is like shitty but i wanted to get a new battery anyways so if i get a new battery would this help me out in the future for my 2 bl 12's and sax 1500d amp? i plan on getting a optima red top oir should i get a yellow top? i just need a new battery in general not just one battery to power my amp im going to get this done within the next hour and hopefully they change the battery for me thanks also could i just use my old battery to power the amp ? or do i n…

What is the importance of an amps efficancy? I know being effeciant in anything is good, but how does this affect amplifier performance when comparing apples to apples. If you have one amp that is say 90% effeciant at 4ohms and another amp that is 70% effeciant at 4ohms and are both rated to put out 500 watts at 4ohms at 12.8 volts; what does the effeciancy rating tell me, the consumer, about the amp I am using? Any input would be appreciated.

ok i know there is a topic here somewhere on this but i have searched using keywords and didnt find what i was lookin for. i would like to know what are suggestions to correctly power a sundown 3500. it is not s competition vehicle jus a daily driver. the speakers will be 4 fi ssd's ( i already own them) run @1ohm. most likely this will go in my ford escape which already has 0ga upgrade, kinetic 2400, batcap800 for electrical. i know i need an alt so i will get probably one runnin at 14-15v 300-400a. i might only compete once or twice but this is just for me to blurr my vision when i'm feelin it. how many batts should i add after i get the alt?