Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey I was wondering what good cheaper amps (around 300) would run two SSD 10s with copper coils. I have two in the mail right. Do I need to give each 800 watts to be decently loud? Also wondering if will likely need to do any changes to my electrical system. I've tried to see what amperage my alternator puts out but cant find info, so if you know what an '06 Rav4 without tow package does that would help a lot. Otherwise I think I'm gonna call the dealer. Thanks for any help!

Looks like i may have found a alt for my car finally, talked to Ohio gen and they seem to be able to make a monster little alt for my car 200 at idle 300+ with some throttle. My question is are these guys still building quality products and how is their cs, would love to hear about some experience with Ohio. Thanks.

I'm planning a build and i'm thinking about amp placement. I know that amps should be grounded around 18" or less but i've seen builds where the grounds are four plus feet, anyone care to shed light on this, is it ok if excellent wire is used? BTW the build was from a person whos name that can't be mentioned.

Well this is what happened. I have had this amp for about a year and its worked fine but i thought i would be different and i changed the shift phase knob on it from the end it was on to the other end b/c i thought it would allow for the subsonic filter to shut off for lower resonance but i was wrong. I believe it ended up blowing 2 cubes in my amp and now i need to get i repaired but i dont know where or how and even if i can repair it. It was a great amp and id like to keep it. Is there anyone out there that can help or might even know what i did really to make it blow? Help would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I picked up a cdx-c90 the other day but it didnt come with either of the 2 remotes. The remote I need is the RM-X9. Does anyone know if theres another sony remote thats comptaible with this deck?

Here are some brand new pictures of a Soundstream XXX-6500. I noticed it can be hard to find non-"stock" pictures of some amplifiers and I know some people were interested, so here ya go. They were on my eBay listings for this amp, but not all search on there. PS - Don't Mind the watermark, that's so other stores and what not don't steal them. Most people who carry these do not stock them and that's why they use generic pictures. Enjoy

I have been looking at upgrading my electrical system to support my future audio system. I am looking at either XS Power D1200 or Kinetik HC1200 for my main battery replacement. As they are the largest that will fit my factory battery location (as near as I can tell). Upon pricing I found a link to Batteryspec.com which sells Kinetik knockoff batteries named Tempest. Have anyone ever heard of or tried any of those batteries? And are they worth even putting in a vehicle? $124 Tempest or $248 Kinetik (shipped prices). big difference. But is the lower price worth it, that's the question?

Hey guys im about to purchace a triple alt set up from iraggi alts for my silverado. My question is should i get 2 350 amp alts and a 240 amp alt to help with at idle amperage or should i just get 3 300 amp alts. Ill be running 12k rms for a daily setup, thanks.

I have some pioneer speakers that rms at 40w and I have three amp choices that are in my price range what would be better Mb quart onx4.60 @$99 Alpine mrp-f300 @ $149 Kicker dx200.4 @ $149 Please help

Hi all, My question is a daily/Competing question. it has to do with the Street classes in DB drag. in street A they only allow One (1) battery in the stock location. which is fine, for competing and doing the whole burp it and go thing. but with an saz-3000 i feel i will need more than one battery for daily driving and for the other organization im competing in Midwest SPL (no battery restrictions). so my question is what is the best way to do this? safely of course. My initial thought was to have a sort of buss bar for positive and negative (this may get complicated so bear with me). I will run one 2/0 welding cable from the front battery to the trunk Buss bars …

I have a duralast gold in the front and a hc2000 in the rear but fear my electrical could be sooo much better if I got a better batt to replace the duralast in the front. Any suggestions for a good batt for the front under 200 bucks...

While looking around at H/U's Saw this on Chrutchfield. Looks pretty interesting. Opinions? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_333ASTRDSM/Parrot-ASTEROID-Smart.html

My birthday is coming up and id really like to increase my power to my sub as much as possible with $200. I currently have a power bass 400 rms at 4 ohms. My sub is single 4 ohm. Rated for 500rms. But id like to give it quite a bit more. Whats the biggest amp i can get for 200? I have a fi x12. In a ported box tuned to 33 ish maybe a tad higher. But i dnt play it at high volumes for more than maybe 10-15 mins. So im not too worried about anything blowing. I was thinking about geting a recone and try to recone it to dual 2 ohm.. And run my amp at 1 ohm... But thats kinda reckless because its only stable at 4 ohms. But if i set everything at 1 ohm and tune the amp with a dm…

http://www.gruberpower.com/gruberpower/adv...8-GPS12-270.asp i will have at least 3 or 4 of them. or should i go with the HC kinetiks? these will be powering either two sundown SAZ1500d or one SAZ300d. 4 18" FI SSD stock

a buddy of mine told me to add the 2 i never used none of them he said that they will help my 15's hit harder

Was drivin around testin out new speakers and was turning up the volume, and when it hit 29/35 everything just shut off. So i figured I blew a fuse. I checked the fuse box numerous times and the fuses are all fine. Took out the HU cuz a buddy said there was a fuse behind it... nothing... I have no clue where to go from this point.

I had it for about 2 years now, I updated the software for it last week. Now it's a pain in the **s. I thought everything was fine, been doing good, now tonight it want connect through my Tungsten E2. It says i need the 3sixty.1 software to connect. My 3sixty.2 thinks it's a .1 now all of a sudden. I have reset everything, Uninstalled and re-installed the software to have the same thing come up. It thinks its a .1 for some reason. Any help well be appreciated.

Not sure if I should I get the battery for the front or should I go with the larger ah one in the back.

Well im looking to get a new HU since the cda-9813 i bought in the classifieds section doesnt play cds. ive been looking at the cda-105 but would like to get some of yalls input. would like to stay below 250

I just got a saz 1500d and am trying to get the gain set just right. With nothing hooked to it and at 27/35 volume, bass -2, sub -2 and with the gain set 1/2, my DMM reads 60.8 volts. This seems way too high but it does sound pretty good on my dd 3512 wired to 4 ohms. Only thing though, 60 volts would be equal to 3600 watts at 1 ohm. Am I doing something wrong or is this the baddest 1500 watt amp in the world?

Can anyone compare em to the 8053? I have the option of buying the 8053 right now but i need to make sure it has a RCA input for my Omnifi. Plus wanna make sure whether there is much of a difference between this unit and the new one. Plus the new one matches with my dash better.

i have heard from a few people to set my loudness on my headunit to off. i was just wondering why. any help would b great.

wire power and ground have other ppl used on the audiopipe 30001d?

4 years ago or so I got a SWEET deal on 6 Optima Red Tops. I can't find the guy and I don't remember what company he's from. Ring any bells for anyone? Anyway most people don't run Optima, why not? I'm assuming because more hours of sotrage can be had for less? I like the idea of dry/gel cells so that I can mount them any way I want inside the vehicle and no hydrogen gas released from charging. Anyone know if this guy is still around? What other options should I consider? Thanks! Krypto

Does a car battery need to be grounded to something in order for it to work properly? The reason I ask this is because a friend and myself are doing a school project (we have to design an entire business), and we thought it would be cool to make a movable car audio display. It would contain some OEM speakers from my Lumina, as well as my friend's Kicker L5 8", Audiobahn amp, a Kenwood head unit I've got laying around, and my car's battery that I'm soon to be replacing. We're thinking of hooking the amp and H.U. directly to the battery (well, fused of course), with a switch on the H.U.'s power lead so that we can turn it on/off that way. The ground for the amp and H.U. w…