Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

What is a good 1/0 ofc wire that is comparable to sky high car audio wire

I am trying to decide between (2) new AudioQue 2200ds or (2) used or refurbished Sundown SAZ-2000ds. I want to spend less than 800 and will be driving 4 D4 Elemental Designs 13Av.2s. I want to link 2 and I am hoping to get around 1100 to 1300 to each sub and they will be in a new box slightly over 8.8 ft.^3 tuned to 29hz. I have proper electrical so that won't be an issue so just some opinions on what your experiences are with the amps and which ones you would buy. Thanks.

do the monoblocks with the fans in them make a big difference or not unless you run then for a long period of time??..cause ive come down to either choosing the ED nine.1 or the massive audio p1500.1,the nine,1 has a built in fan and the massive doesnt but i heard the massive is a overrall better quality amp so i wanted to ask you guys...

I have a tc-loc2 hooked up to a hifonics brx1100.d running at 2 ohms to a re sex v2 12" in a 2 cu ft 32hz box. The amp is rated at 800 rms at 2 ohms and and the sub is rated at 750 rms. I have the gains on the LOC all the way up and the gains on the amp at about 6/8ths, now that is partly because I set the gains with the remote at 50%. Anyways is it alright if the amp gains are maxed out because if I turn the loc gains down I will probably have to. thanks

So my amp outputs 3500watts, but its fuses are only 3X30amp so 90 amps which is what 900 watt rms or something around that???? so whats gonna happen if i set it higher then what the fuses can take. I really want to set them higher since i got the bad boy 18 Fi BL.

well i have everything hookedup and when my amp wont turn on, my remote wire power grounds, all connected to my back battery, as of now i got my stinger voltmeter working but thats it, it only works when the power and the remote wire are hooked together, and then the remote wire to the amp, thats only when it turns on but if i take out my voltmeter amp doesnt turn on, anyone know how to solve my problem dont have have to keep removing my remote wire, to have to turn off my amp and turn it back on as well also my aq gets hot pretty much imo. any help will be nice, i kow its kinda of a mess if you guys want me to explain it better i will

I have an alpine mrv850d. 2ohm stable, but i just ordered a pair of d4 subs. so i can run them at 1 or 4. what will happen if i run at 1ohm? i know i ran my hifonics goliath and ED 9.1 below 1ohm with no problems. randomly my 9.1 would go into protect but if i shut it off for a second it was fine. but ive never owned a Mainstream amp like alpine

Anyone have any personal expierence with the soundstream pca2000d. they are rated 2000 watts rms. Anyone know if its underrated or overrated? I am gonna be getting either to Fi Bl 15" or so SSA icon 15". Just wondering if this amp will be good for my project. here the specs http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=15529

g'day, i was trying to tune my gains the other day on my sax 200.4 with a test cd and multimeter i've used with several other cars and amplifiers. for some reason, the multimeter wont pick up any signal from any of the speaker outputs at all. i can turn the knob from 0.2v to 6v and not get any change off 0V, on any channel and any output. i'm using exactly the same method as i do with other cars and stereos and it's worked fine, but not with this amp. is there some trick to getting the sax 200.4 to measure through a multimeter or something? the meter i'm using is an Amprobe 5XP-A and it has plenty of battery left in it. thanks.

I noticed this when I did my first Install and I didn't think much of it at the time because I was assuming my Alternator had a major roll to play with this. I received and installed my 270 HO alternator from DC. I am still getting really bad voltage drop at idle. Well i am driving it's fine i stay at 14.4-14.6... Once i hit a red light it drops down 12.2-12.4ish. If the heat or AC is on at idle i wanna cry The only thing i have running in my car at the moment is my sundown 100.4 and i have 2x XS d3100 installed. 1 in the hood and 1 in the back. I did some research and I read on trailvoy.com that the car PC tells the alternator to shut off at idle....called a dealership…

is one powermaster 3100 in the front cell enough for one saz 3000d? or will i need one powermaster in the front cell, and one in the back of the vehicle. i should be pulling around 2000 watt rms

The Fi SP4 15 is in the car and it wants power. I want to give it close to rms of 3000 watts but I have a budget of $400... Any recommendations on a truthfully rated amp (around) 3000 watts @ 1ohm?

I'm going to be running a SAZ-1500d at 1 ohm on a 15" FI BL. Question is, i have the big 3 done in 0 gauge and a optima red top in a scion xb with i believe a 80 amp alt (stock). will i have any problems? I plan to get a 200 amp alt and an extra battery but would like to wait if my electrical can handle it. thanks, Justin

i have a 2nd post similar to this but not as on point so ive made this one to nail down some questions and make things more searchable in the future. coworker was setting gains on an amp the other day and what he was doing got me thinking. if you follow mecp and set gain off a 40hz tone wouldn't the power output of that amp change drastically if the box were tuned to say 29hz or 55hz (something 1/2 or more octave above/below the frequency you are generating? or transversely if the box were tuned at 40hz...) the thermal handling of both amp and sub (assuming that's one thing you do such a procedure to keep in check) would change drastically while playing music. so wou…

If i have stock alt a kinetik 3800 and a kinetik 2400, only one AQ 2200 right now, i was wondering if my ascendant mayhem 12" dual 2 ohm could handle that?

As title says has anyone had any experience/problems with mechman alternators? I'm going to pick a new alt up this week but can't decide between ordering a DC or a Mechman. DC is $629+ shipping and mechman quoted me $449.99+shipping. I called DC on Friday but got know answer and emailed them from their website on Friday and awaiting a reply. I have looked over their topics on this forum and see some complaints with shipping/communication but know one's perfect and I just want to know if saving a couple of $$ is worth it in the long run. Joe

I want a new Head Unit and i've seen this idea done before on SMD.. i didn't stick around to see it through though. I'm concerned about the fact my system might not be capable of being powered by an iPad. I'd have my dash fiberglassed for a nice fit. What would the PROS and CONS be? The system would consist of (2) Sub Amps ( around 8k ) and (1) Front Stage Amp. ( 4x100 ) Would it be possible to hook up? If so, HOW?! Also.. heres some other questions i have. How would I keep it charged? The EQ.. whats your guys thoughts about how i would set it up? -- Would it be the same as a regular Head Unit? Would it be possible for my equipment to fry the inside of the iPad? -- to m…

I might be in the market for one in a few months and was wondering whats the consensous around here to get a great H.O.

Going to start a new thread for this, but it kind of piggyback's off my previous battery thread. Got my stereo up and running but was noticing some dimming of the lights both internally and externally. Initially was thinking of just upgrading the battery. I took out my DMM and at the battery it was showing 14.0 and right about 14.0 at the amp (might have been 13.9). So all seemed fine, but then I started to turn it up a bit and was noticing on heavy bass hits it was going down to as low as 12.2v. The gain on the amp is a little under 75% and the HU volume at the time was right around 75%. I'm wanting to turn the gain up more on the amp since it sounds like the sub is s…

Should I still bother with a frame ground if all my amps have direct positive and negative from the battery? My sub amp current has direct runs to the battery of 1/0, which are both less than ten feet.

Firs off, IF YOUR GOING TO JUST TELL ME IDK WHAT IM DOING, THEN JUST LEAVE. I DO NOT WANT TO HEAR IT. IM LEARNING. (and you know who you are) ok. so as most of u have seen in my other thread, i have just added a seconed battery. only problem is that after playing for 3 or 4 mins, my volt meter and stuff goes back to the way it was befor. goes crazy when bass hits. So im going to do the big 3. i got to looking at my alternator yesterday and my wire going from my alternator goes to my fuse box. not to my battery. so what do i do? should i still updrade it, or just leave it and do the rest? any HELP is appreciated guys. Thanks

ok so i done some trouble shooting to figure out why im still getting voltage drops, light dimming, and why my subs turn off when i play heavy bass songs, and this is what i came across so today i measured for bad grounds, first i measured the battery with the car off, 12.6volts. secound i measured from the neg side of batt to chassis ground, got 0.01 as a reading on the DMM, so that means mininum resistance which is good right? i turned my car on, turned on the wiper blades front and rear, turned high beams and headlights on, and put my heater on MAX i put my HU to about 26/35 and measured the battery and it never went less than 13volts so with everything still on, i me…

ok i know people on here say not to bother with a capasitor but almost everyone in my town here is telling me not to get a 2nd battery b/c it's not going to be as good and i'm wondering y you guys reccomend the battery over a capasitor? they tell me that caps are made for letting big draws out and batterys arn't ment for that, now i'm unsure what to do it's for a daily system a sundown saz2000d and fi btl 12" and big three 1/0 wire.

Im getting 2 amp kits from knukonceptz. They are both 0 gauge. One is for my amp wiring and one is for my big 3. One of my questions is when my battery grounds it grouds to the frame and the block. Do i need to replace both? And where should i look for my block ground. Btw i drive a 2004 Isuzu Rodeo 3.5 liter. I run a kicker kx1200.1 and its pushing a kicker L7 15 D2. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

looking at replacing my two MA Audio HK802sx Amps for two hcca 2500's possibly...... http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046 I know this company has been taken over by directed elelctronics...and all the orion products arent what they used to be but....ive installed several of there new Cobalt series amps and speakers in customers vehicles and they all seem to perform very very well for the price.....so i was hoping someone had some insight on there new hcca 2500 model...... The amps i have now work great, but i only had one amp at first......then i upgraded from 8 memphis 12's to 4 Fi SSD 15's w/ bp power option and copper coils Dual 1 ohm and added …