Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

1. Product: USP12-490MR High Rate Max Battery 2. Specs: See Link Below: http://www.dcbattery.com/dynasty-mr.pdf 3. Description/Condition: Item is in great condition and has only been used in one application for about a month and has been sitting in my garage for the last year and a half. 4. Price: : $200 Shipped 5. Pictures: See attachments

what amp would be best matched with a 15" SSD w/ the bp option? orion 1200d RF t1001bd Sundown sae-1000 I can get the orion and rf for about 200 locally and I am waiting for the email back for the sundown. What would you guys choose? thanks for any input -Ryan

Ok I'll explain what is in his car, Alt is stock for now (his excessive amperage one just blew, again) Batteries are two kinetik 2000's( one up front one in back) Runs of 1/0 and 3/0 to the back Big three in 1/0 3/0 wires and 1/0 wires and 4 awg wires to amps Head unit is a double din pioneer and 3 premiums on the back, Subs are two 15" dc xls dual 1's Amp for subs is a saz3500 Door speakers are kicker coaxials powered by a boss 2 channel He has four 6" selenium mids powered by a jl audio 2 channel And that was his setup and everything has been going fine. Now, he just bought two selenium horns and two selenium supertweeters (st200's) and a Boston acoustics amp fro…

I've had this unit working in my truck for about a year and a half now no problems and yesterday I get in and it turns on plays fine for a few minutes then the screen goes black and I lose all sound. When I turn on my truck all the buttons will light up and I hear the internal fan turn on, also powers on my amps but still no sound or screen. Things I've checked -Inline fuse on the yellow cord (Good) -Remove the button cluster and trying the reset button -Remove the negative cord from my battery for a few mins and hooking it back up and trying to start the unit -Truck running and off with accessory -Removed the radio and plug it in to a 12 volt power supply None of t…

I heard that circuit breakers are not a good idea. Is it tru that they lose their capacity every time they are tripped. So the first time it will trip at rated load, then it will begin to trip at lower values every time it is tripped?

Explains the pros and cons of caps and also when, where, and why you need an alt and or battery.

Has anybody used Braille Batteries before?

Does anyone have an opinion/experience with these new Soundstream PCA100d or PCA1500d or PCA2000d? Will they hit their numbers? Are they worth 250-350? Thanks all

I've got an old MTX Terminator high current amp but its missing the 5 pin connector for the speaker wire. Any idea where I can find one of those? Ebay doesnt seem to have any. The board was made by PPI but I'm not sure if the ppi 5 pin will work with this amp. heres a side view of the amp from ampguts.

hi i am new here to this forum and i just had a few questions i had wanted to ask . ok i currently have a 88 deville i am running a alpine 7893 cd player and i have a mtx ta 81001 amplifier running on a powerbass 15xs subwoofer . my questions is do you all think i need to upgrade my alternator and battery i have been looking online to find specs on the alternator and stuff i asked the guy at autozone and he said it was 120 amps is that good enough for the amplifier the battery is a regular one from advance auto. the reason i am asking the lights don't dim really bad till i get to about 26 or so on the cd player. with the bass on zero and no bass boost on the a…

My amp blew today:( so now i'm in the market for a new amp asap! I figured i'm just going to re do all the electrical because i was just using two o reilly batterys (not the best idea, i know) I'm running the 2 sa15s still in my Jimmy. I'm thinking I might run 2 xs power d1200's (unless you guys have other suggestions) I'm not really positive on my battery budget until I get the amp bought. I'm trying to keep my amp budget right around $500. Thanks guys!

Does it matter that much about the audio cables I think they run from the amp to the head unit. At sound advice they have 25$ and they have 100$ ones is there that much of a difference I wouldn't want them to have to re run them.

Hi all, need some help, planning on installing my 200amp alt today. I see the factory wiring in my 98 GMC jimmy has an 8 guage going from (i think) alternator all the way to the fuse box then back to the battery? correct? now i have a piece of 4 gauge from a previous install around 16" long. the big question is can i just run directly from the alt to the battery? and if so what do i do with the factory stuff going to the fuse box? just leave it? or will that blow the fuse in the fuse box and cause problems? or should i disconnect it and just let it dangle? my battery is a 3 year old (weak) ac delco 680 c.a or c.c.a cant remember, and i did ground the battery to the frame …

I have tried to read as much as possible to educate my self on the power needed to feed my 1000 watt peak system. It seems like the wisest first step would be to upgrade my alternator, then add a second deep cycle battery with a high ah rating and enough amps to supply the power. I have searched for high amp alternators for my 1991 omc ford 2.3 liter ford engine but I am told they dont exist. One person sugested haveing it worked on by a alternator shop and having them install a higher output kit . I would love to have a separate battery or two that I charge in between boat trips dedicated specificlly for the audio and leave the boat operating system alone. TO play my sys…

Hey, Recently my MB Quart DSC4125 bit the dust and waiting to see if it can be fixed under warranty. Anyways, I have an 8" orphan from Sound Splinter and was wondering what Amp would be good to run it? Either Mono(for sub) and a 2channel to run a pair of Infinity Kappa 682.9cf's or a 4 channel amp again so i can run the sub along with the speakers. Having a hard time finding an amp for a 6ohm woofer that's sweet spot is at 500W. As for budget, not looking to get crazy expensive, say if possible around $300. Just need to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks.

I have been looking from time to time to see if I stumble across one, but I wanted to put the word out again and ask if someone might know of one or has seen one, I hate haveing a processor and not use it, could maybe back the gains back down again, any help would be great

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...p;productId=108 What is that amps peak power, if 500watts is RMS? Also does it include a bass controller? and can I set my subs to run off a switch so that I can turn them on and off.

I'm about to install my system, looking around at the stuff I have sitting around, and I started to wonder if there may be a better way to do this. Here's my plan: PG RSd 65 components in Front 2x Sundown SD-1 (the old 8 ohm ones - which creates part of my dilemma) sealed in 1.5^3ft. Sundown SAX-100.4 So, the original plan was simple, run the components off the front channels using the passive XO included with them. Run the subs parallel off the rear channels of the amp. Lots of flexibility with the subsonic filters, bass boost, active XO in the sundown, as well as some basic stuff on my HU. Simple right? Then, I realized I have this old RF 200a4 sitting here unused. …

ok, im starting to upgrade my eletrical before i start doing my system. and i may add a second battery. ( i can fit a powermaster 3100d underhood ) and if add it. i was wondering if instead of running the positve and the negitave wire directly to each battery if i could run them to distribution blocks instead and go from the distribution blocks to the amps. i already have a 1/0 ground run and a 1/0 postive run. and i will get 1 sax100.2 @ 3 ohms. 1 sax 125.2 at 4 ohm. and a either a saz or sae1000d. so roughly 1500 rms total. but my truck only has a stock 90 amp alt. and i doing big 3 is 2/0 guage wire. ( it's welding wire)

Installed a Sony (no comment) HU in a friend's car a few weeks ago, with no problems until another friend tried to replace the rear speakers. After which, the radio turn on wire does not function. To get the radio to turn on we have to wire both red (mem) and yellow (12+) to the 12+ constant. Checked every fuse in the vehicle, and smell no burned wires. If all else fails, we will simply run a new set of wires and re fuse them , but either way, i'd like to figure out what went wrong in the first place. 1992 Saturn SL (The awesome kind )

Ill be putting an indash Nav reciever into my wifes 2011 Nissan Xterra for Christmas, what Im looking for is usb/aux extensions to run from the back of the radio and mount in the cab (preferably in the center console). Does anyone have a prefered kit or method to do this? Ive seen a couple kits on amazon but it seems they are more for boat/RV as they have like 2.5" mounting depths. Any help is appriciated. Thanks

My current setup consists of: -Advance auto parts group 34/78 up front -stinger spp1500d in the back -mechman 270a alt -Crescendo bc2k -Crescendo c1100.4 -Knu konceptz 1/0 all around including big 3 I was wanting to upgrade to something bigger (maybe a dc level 6 18). I am tore between 2 options...(both options will have c1100.4 and same batteries plus some later down the line) 1st: -Taramps hd5000 -2 positive runs of sky high 2/0 from front to back -3 positive runs to the amp -Big 3 in sky high 2/0 2nd: -Another bc2k strapped to the other one -1 run of sky high 2/0 from front to back -2 runs of knu 1/0 or 1 run of sky high 2/0 to each bc -big 3 in sky high 2/0 I can sav…

im about to do my big 3 in 4 gauge this week, but I'm wondering if I should just sack up and do my amp power/ground + big three in 1/0 gauge instead, for 600w rms.. would i notice any difference or would i just be wasting my money? (i have stock electrical w/ only 4 gauge going to my amp right now) thanks. this is my third question of the day sorry everyone!

So I was browsing the classified looking at all the junk that people wanted a ton for when I came across this. Even better was what I paid. Just wish I had a use for it, its been sitting in a closet for years I was told, its got some scratches but its a huge beautiful amp. Please bear with me as I have never posted pics on a forum. Album: Codesters audio stuff 1 images 0 comments

This is how my boat is wired as of now. 2 ga. from the alt (pos) and the neg. (don't know where it is grounded but most likely the engine somehwere). These are connected to the starting battery. Then I have additional 2ga cables running in series to the aftermarket stereo battery (a deka intimidator), off of this is where my 4 ga. amp wires run (pos and neg in the same fashion). My question has to do with the grounding. I would guess that it would be better to ground my aftermarket battery directly to some big ass piece of metal (but alas only fiberglass around) and the same goes for my amps. It seems that all the ground is running all the way back to the starting batte…